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I'm going to WV in a few weeks and planning to hit Snowshoe's bike park. This will be my first time on a true downhill course as I ride XC in and around Patapsco State Park and Bacon Ridge in MD. What am I getting myself into here? Oh I guess I should state that my ride is a Scott Spark 720+ which is 130mm up front and 120mm in the rear with a 67 degree headtube angle. I'd prefer to use it but renting is also acceptable.
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Aug 8, 2020 13:35
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spwrozek posted:Start on some green/blues and work your way up. Knee pads and elbow pads are a good idea. A full face helmet just depends on how rowdy you are going to get. I find that most blue and even black trails at bike parks are not really any harder than other trails not at the bike park (at least I feel this is true in CO) where I just wear a regular helmet. Thanks dude, that's a big confidence boost. YouTube stalking confirms that the blues look very doable. I will definitely report back to the group on my experience.
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Aug 9, 2020 20:39
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spwrozek posted:Start on some green/blues and work your way up. Knee pads and elbow pads are a good idea. A full face helmet just depends on how rowdy you are going to get. I find that most blue and even black trails at bike parks are not really any harder than other trails not at the bike park (at least I feel this is true in CO) where I just wear a regular helmet. Checking in to report that all went well on baby's first park day. It will not be the last. The bike performed flawlessly and a good time was had by all. By far my favorite trail of the day was Skyline on the western side of the park. It's a flow and jump trail. The first time down I just ran all the jumps like tabletops to see what was what. The second time I started actually hitting jumps and the third time I hit as many as I could. Here's video from the 2nd run, please pardon the blurriness as it is an older Session: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZz7E8FOlpQ&t=2s This was the only injury of the day:  It was due to wearing the wrong gloves and the fork being too low which put too much of my weight over the front fork. And this pic is just too pretty not to post:  New River Gorge, Glade Creek camping area, West Virginia
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Sep 29, 2020 04:18
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VacaGrande posted:I love those trucks! Nice. There are some fun trails up on the Fayetteville side of the Gorge next to Arrowhead Bike Farm, which is a cool and good place with camping and a little restaurant. I've heard there are very good trails at the Boy Scout camp nearby but they weren't open to the public when I was there. Thanks! We were super pleased with how well our vehicles and load outs performed as this was the first time we tried ‘overlanding’ in the proper sense of the word which is to say drive > camp overnight > drive > camp, etc as opposed to stay in one place. I have the Bike Farm bookmarked for future reference. To get back to biking the downhill bug has definitely bitten. Since coming back I ordered a new handlebar with some rise and will be replacing the brake pads that I thrashed last weekend (they were kinda due before and now they are *really* due). I’m also hoping to get to Bryce Mountain before the MTB season ends as I hear that they have more progressive features so I can learn how to tackle drops. If anyone in the area wants to make a day of it hit me up. Also my daughter really wants a proper bike so we’re going to see about making that happen. She’s of an age now where she can fit a full size bike so I’m hoping to nab a good used one for her once we figure out sizing.
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Sep 30, 2020 13:01
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evil_bunnY posted:You're going to blow the lens assemblies if you hardmount your phone to your bar/stem I’m seconding what evil_bunnY said. Get an Apple Watch instead. I know Gaia GPS works with the watch and wouldn’t be surprised if trailforks does too.
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Jun 28, 2021 08:57
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Nocheez posted:Has anyone else toned down their riding and the features they ride to try and stay out of the overcrowded ICUs? I know it's not as big of a deal now, but over the summer I had a baby on the way so I did my best to try to take safer lines and not over-extend myself because I didn't want to risk having to go to the ER. I could lie to you and say yes, but between the early start on the season and a lot of extra riding this year (like three days a week on average) it's really hard to hold back when the joy-o-meter is saying 'look how much fun you're having, wouldn't it be funner to hit that root section faster??? Cmon just do it!' 2021 is my MTB comeback season and the kid jumping into the sport with both feet has made the latter half of 2021 my happiest year in general in the past decade. Also there was a lot of not doing poo poo last year to make up for. That being said I do have internal guidelines set: - I don't do drops over 24-30"; - I walk any obstacle that I haven't previously cleared; - If the trail is wet any log over that looks in any way sketchy is a free pass; - The household no emergency room policy that I set applies to me too regardless of where I am. So far that's working out well. I've got tons of scratches all over my legs but only went OTB once this year (first time in 20 years and I totally ran the wrong line, low speed, and poor body positioning).
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Oct 8, 2021 11:16
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Suburban Dad posted:Heh. Get a jockstrap. I didn't and wished I would have listened to advice. Wasn't too bad though. That garage ceiling height is majestic. I wish I could just magic my bikes into the sky like that.
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Oct 9, 2021 09:29
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Taima posted:Hey there thread. I have a long history with mountain bikes. Been riding for 20+ years and really seen the sport grow up around me. It's absolutely nuts how many people mountain bike these days, I was mostly used to having trails almost to myself, and I live in a hub for riding. Now the same parking lots that were empty when I was biking 15 years ago are now full every day. That's a nice bike! The first thing I'd do is verify that the shocks are functional and hold pressure. Then I'd air it up and go for a ride, or two, or ten. As for upgrades the first thing I would suggest is a dropper post. It's a significant creature comfort upgrade. After that you might look into converting the drivetrain from 2x to 1x, but that time and money might be better spent on a newer platform. Taima posted:Thanks, I guess that kind of gets to the crux of the matter, which is I get that geometry and components have improved, I just don't get what that actually means in terms of older geometry/parts and how much of a downside it is at this point. I think that the best way to grasp the difference is try out a newer bike at your local bike shop and make your own comparisons. Arishtat fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Jan 1, 2022 |
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Jan 1, 2022 04:10
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Taima posted:You guys rule thanks, you've given me a lot to think about. Good to hear that for the most part the bike is still decent. So regardless of whether your Bronson is a 2013 or 2014 model it has a 30.9mm seat post tube. You'll have to DIY the insertion depth measurement yourself as I haven't been able to locate that bit of information. It does look like you're in luck that the frame was designed for internal routing of the dropper post control cable. Look at the non-chainring side of the seat post tube just above the bottom bracket for a port. My guess based on looking at the frame is that you can fit a 120-130mm dropper post at full insertion; however, you'll need to verify that with a real measurement and then look up the insertion depth requirements with the dropper post manufacturers. Although I didn't end up buying from them I found KS Lev's spec sheets to be really informative as far as what the measurements mean.  As you can see the insertion depth (D) for an internally-routed dropper is quite a bit longer than the travel (B) because of the combination of the shock and the bell crank actuator assembly at the bottom end of the dropper post. My guess is that you can put a 120mm travel dropper post on it if you would like to. Also as your bike's set up with a 2x-something drivetrain you'll need a lever that's compatible with the left-hand derailleur lever such as this one: https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collections/levers-1/products/replacement-lever-kit?variant=28766929190989 PS I'm 43, on your left Junior! 
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Jan 2, 2022 07:27
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Homers BBBq posted:Can people throw out some flat pedals they are using and like? There are so many choices out there... Currently riding on some composite crank brother stamp 1s and I'm not totally thrilled with them. I like my Race Face Chesters; however, I will say that they're on the smaller side of the footprint scale. For reference I wear a US 9 (EU 42). My riding buddy went with a set of Deity Deftraps when he decided to try out a set of flats and they fit foot (US 11E) better than the Chesters. Dear Thread, I'm about to end up with a 'spare' 27.5x35mm wheel set and I'm thinking about what to do with it. Options include but are not limited to: - keep the same tires (Maxxis Rekon+) - look for a more tarmac-oriented tire for off-season use on the neighborhood trails - set them up for more downhill riding (Bryce isn't that far away...) - your idea here
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Jan 30, 2022 16:55
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kazr posted:Yeah just getting into it. It was priced at $750 which was about my upper limit of what I was expecting to spend. At that price point that's a nice first bike OP.
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Jul 24, 2022 23:17
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Aphex- posted:Are you all running tyres made out of tissue paper or something??? Yeah for real, my tire kill count over the past five years is: - 1 Maxxis Rekon+ (tubeless) vs right angle metal storm drain cover, hit that hard enough to bend the rim - daughter pinch flatted a couple random 29ers To be honest though I'm pretty impressed with how durable the Rekon+ EXOs are. They've been taken to downhill parks and subjected to all kinds of rocks and roots and are still going strong. Oh and that rim I bent? I heated it up and bent it back into shape and still have it as a backup wheel set. I should probably look at putting an insert in my back tire if I continue to visit the downhill parks, but that's kind of a once or twice a year thing and as a nearly middle-aged male should probably not be doing the jump lines anymore. Speaking of wheels and tires I lucked into a set of 27.5 non-boost wheels for my daughter's bike. She has a 2015 Troy XP with 15x100mm and 12x142mm axles and I had pretty much given up hope to find used wheels for it, but a fellow NICA coach sold me a set with practically brand new Hans Dampfs and they're set up tubeless! I'm happy and she's going to be really happy with the reduced rotational mass.
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Aug 16, 2022 20:29
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Spime Wrangler posted:I appear to have splurged because I hate money. What the world needs are more big yellow bikes. Sincerely, A Yellow Bike Owner
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Aug 20, 2022 01:15
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cubicle gangster posted:I can get it for $1k flat, yeah. Sounds like it could be good! Priced at $1K out the door that's a decent deal as long as the drivetrain is in good condition (not rusty, shifts cleanly up and down, brakes brake). I say send it OP. "Bike people" can be like "car people" or "horse people" and they forget that not everyone is going to throw down $5K right out the gate on a new hobby. The Trek Roscoe is a solid entry-level bike. The NICA team I coach for probably has half a dozen riders on Roscoes. It will run cross-country trails all day long. Where it falls down is more chunky terrain and it's definitely not suited to more downhill riding. If you get this bike it will serve you well until eventually you'll progress to the point that you may want a more X or Y type bike. re: 'modern geo' - yeah I guess some people have a point that there is a tendency towards longer slacker geometry on hardtails which means that they ride descents with more stability, but again that won't hold you back from the kinds of trails you're going to ride in your first year or two. "One guy in there 6 months ago recommended I up my budget to get the roscoe 6 instead of the marlin, and I was just told not to get the 2020 roscoe 8 over a $400 wallmart bike because it's got the same frame as the current roscoe 6 which is poo poo. just a bunch of miserable elitists." This person is shitposting OP. No the Trek Roscoe isn't a high end bike, but it's far more capable than a $400 WalMart special. Anyway welcome to the sport and I hope you enjoy it!
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Sep 2, 2022 21:33
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numptyboy posted:I think it might depend on the make - i think RS insist on new lowers while Fox can do new bushings. I went through this earlier this year with a Fox 34 fork and here is the summary: - I crashed it at a bike park and put a scratch on the stanchion (CSU) which had obvious high and low points - shock was slowly losing oil out the left side due to the scratch on the CSU - took it to local bike shop for diagnosis, shop offered: - repair with epoxy and sanding (low confidence of long term success) - replace CSU and perform an 'upper service' which meant new seals and bushings - replace fork entirely I elected to go with the CSU replacement because the part was ~$150USD and the total repair was quoted out at ~$400 including the upper service kit. The shock was already five years old so it was overdue for service anyway and we priced out a replacement shock which started at $750 and went up from there. When I asked about riding on the damaged shock I was told that it would be OK to do so with due caution (i.e. no sending it off jumps and stuff) while waiting for parts to arrive. It ended up taking a few weeks for the CSU to arrive because we needed one with the remote lockout feature as opposed to a standard CSU (yay Scott bikes). The shop did the CSU swap, replaced the seals and bushings and filled up the shock and I swear it rides better than it did before the crash.
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Oct 21, 2022 18:13
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Bud Manstrong posted:If this was the first service, that’s a definite possibility. Fox loves to ship forks with a huge wad of grease on the air spring. It reduces the volume in the negative chamber and makes the fork feel harsh off the top. Points of clarification: - original internals were retained, so no new air spring - shock was also ~6 years old at time of service and hadn't had a fluid replacement in, like, ever
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Oct 24, 2022 19:26
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Meet the new-to-me bike: a 2020 Scott Scale 970 hardtail The previous owner had the wheels re-done with wider tubeless rims and WTB Ground Control brown wall tires. I'm not 100% sold on brown wall tires but they grip really well so there's no reason to change those out any time soon. He also replaced the stock Synchros bars with the red anodized bar and added some aesthetic touches such as the red bottle cage and a "Patapsco Valley State Park" stem cap. Here's the listing photo:  To that I added some gray anodized Deity Black Kat pedals and a PNW Components 140mm Loam dropper post. I also have an SDG saddle on order, but might end up sticking with the Synchros one because it's super lightweight and more comfortable than I expected it to be. I got it out on the trail yesterday and it's a goer! I did have to re-learn how to do log overs without the benefit of a rear shock and my legs will need some re-calibration to act as the rear suspension on descents. The 32t / 50t combination is just right and the WTB Ground Control tires are nice and grippy even on damp rocks and logs. TL:DR it's fun bike and will make a great training tool for teaching NICA riders how to get the most out of their hardtail! Arishtat fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Nov 2, 2022 |
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Oct 28, 2022 17:55
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Aphex- posted:I've had an oval for almost a year and I noticed a difference right away, but I live somewhere which is mostly steeper technical climbs, I think it's great for that to even out the strokes more but yeah I'm not sure how much it would help with flatter rides. I noticed it helps on uneven steep climbs, basically it smooths out the surges so I don't suddenly over-torque and spin out. It also helped that I went up a chain ring size because the factory 30t -> 52t ratio was wayyyyy too much torque. The oval is a 32t but because it's an oval it works out to roughly 31.5t (don't ask me, I'm just parroting what AbsoluteBlack's information says) which dialed the ratio in just right (for me, you mileage may vary). Also I got out for the 2nd time this year and the first time since my crash back in January. We didn't go far or fast but the point was to just get out there and see how things stood. I was pleasantly surprised to find that not all of my cardio had evaporated and that my repaired ankle performed far better than anticipated! We're going back out next Sunday and I can't wait.
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Apr 5, 2023 20:03
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Jato posted:Is this Bryce resort in VA? I'm a couple hours away in central VA and need to get up there and check it out. Picked up the Status 140 the other day and definitely want to get it to a bike park. Have some friends who went last year and said it was a good time. I'd agree with Boogalo's assessment of Bryce. You can definitely have some fun there with your shiny new Status 140. My comment on Bryce is that it is a very compact resort. This is true both for the layout and the trails themselves. It means if you want to repeat a trail to practice a particular feature or just cycle trails you can do that with minimal interruption. By about my 2nd or 3rd run on Screwdriver I really got to enjoying the super tight switchbacks at the end. And yes Boogalo and I were there on the same day and even parked next to each other, but neither he nor I made the connection until afterward. 
Arishtat fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Apr 8, 2023 |
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Apr 7, 2023 16:09
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Ropes4u posted:Is there any good reasons to order anything other than a Raceface Chester flat pedal Some people (like myself) prefer a larger footprint.
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Sep 26, 2023 06:59
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Homers BBBq posted:I recently had to change vehicles so I'm going from a roof rack to a hitch and tray rack. I'm all good on the tray rack but what should I do with the old roof stuff? I have the yakima Q tower and round bar system with two fork mounted bike mounts. The Q towers were universal but you need the clips and pads to fit your vehicle, which appear to be discontinued. The towers were made from 2004-2011. Also looks like manufacturers are only making aero bars now and round bars are a thing of the past so even the fork mounted carriers are obsolete. Two possible options: - Put it up for sale on your local bike trading group - Find a group for the model car it fits and put it up for sale there
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Nov 13, 2023 21:49
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Boogalo posted:27.5 is fine. As is 29. Sit on both sizes if you can and pick which one feels better to you. This is the way. I'll add that if you can rent or demo the bikes so you can take them out of the parking lot and on to the trails you intend to ride that's the real way to find out which one you vibe with best. The beauty of this sport is that there's not always a 'right' or 'wrong' answer, it's what works best for you. For example I have a friend that swears by his 27.5s and will probably never convert to 29. He prefers the agility of the 27.5 to mountain goat his way up rocky climbs and to negotiate the numerous rock gardens of Patapsco Valley State Park. Speaking for myself I started out in 2017 on a 29er hardtail that felt like driving a monster truck (my basis of comparison being a 26" from like 2000). Then I fell in love with a 27.5+ full suspension and that bike is where it's at for my 90% XC riding. I also have a 29er hardtail when I feel like upping the challenge or going fast on flatter trail systems. It's also useful as a teaching tool in my coaching because most of our student riders are on hardtails so it's good to ride something like what they ride once in a while to feel the trail from their perspective and remind myself that hardtails are far less forgiving of line choice than a full suspension. FogHelmut posted:The thing about climbing is that you have to come back down. Doesn't a locking rear suspension help with climbing efficiency or is it not as good as a hard tail? They seem to be on higher end bikes though? Firming up the dampers and reducing travel both on the fork and the rear (if applicable) help translate more of your pedal stroke into forward motion; however, you rarely want to fully 'lock out' because that will cause the bike to lose grip and that will negatively affect your climbing. The name of the game for being an efficient climber balancing grip with pedaling efficiency. The video you linked showed an initial climb on a wide and relatively smooth trail that would lend itself to locking out the fork and rear shock. You just have to remember to un-lock them before descending or your descent will be, uh mighty uncomfortable. If you want to get really fancy there are bikes out there with remote lockout levers and multiple 'modes' of suspension travel and damping force that you can select with your thumb. Those are really good for people that ride cross-country type terrain where they're constantly swapping between ascent, descent, and flow mode. It's not an essential feature, but can be a nice quality-of-life thing. quote:Basically this whole channel That trail is 100% doable (and fun) on a hardtail. There's one bit around the 8 minute mark in the video which will likely give you trouble which is the 'punchy climb' (that's mountain biker for 'punch you in the legs/gut/soul') over the rocks which gives the presenter some trouble. Arishtat fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Dec 3, 2023 |
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Dec 3, 2023 12:43
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kimbo305 posted:I don’t think OP will be able to get that fancy in the 2k FS price range. Fair point, wasn't suggesting going straight to that level right away, simply offering it as additional information.
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Dec 3, 2023 15:01
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Nohearum posted:Gorilla tape is a nightmare if you ever have to remove/replace it. Kapton tape is cheap and works great without leaving residue There is a special place in hell for people that use Gorilla tape. I've had to re-do two wheelsets that were DIY tubeless'ed with Gorilla tape and cleaning up the residue one the rims was a non-trivial process. It's still better than stripping old tubeless sealant off the inside of tires though. What winter projects does everyone have lined up? I'm working on re-doing my wall racks for bikes and biking accessories because the bug has bitten the entire family and now we need room for four bikes as opposed to just two. My spouse enjoyed photographing cross-country bike races so much that now she wants an e-bike to facilitate getting from spot to spot on the course as well as some light trail riding which I am very excited to support. Arishtat fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jan 17, 2024 |
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Jan 17, 2024 18:27
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Status update: - garage still a disaster area, welp - bike serviced and has a fresh rear derailleur now - finally dragged spouse to LBS to look at e-bikes, she fell in love with a Specialized Turbo Tero and we put a deposit on one! - went for my first MTB ride of the year - daughter drove us back from said ride and we didn’t die It was a good weekend by all accounts.
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Feb 5, 2024 12:47
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3/4 bikes in the house are running on GX derailleurs and as soon as the spouse kills the NX on her fancy new e-bike (and she will, trust me) that one's getting a GX upgrade as well. I did my level best to kill the one on my Spark over five years and only just replaced it this year because I got tired of constantly fiddling with the fine adjustments to keep it in tune. It had multiple scars on it from rock strikes and outlasted two derailleur hangars. I probably should have asked for the carcass to mount on my wall, but alas, did not think of that in time before it went into the scrapper's bin. My primary bike was down for the weekend so I rode my backup (2020 Scott Scale 970) on Saturday and Sunday and came back with the following notes: - I mis-set the seat post height when I installed a dropper post (since fixed) - I really need to adjust the fork pressure and rebound (also fixed) - I really miss the DT Swiss 350 54t hub on my primary bike - resin pads and wet conditions are bad combination We ran into some pretty awful trail conditions on Sunday afternoon that had my bike trying to skid sideways while the front tire washed out and the wet brakes were just kinda along for the ride so that was fun. I wasn't the only one experiencing what we'll call 'limited control', but no one crashed and we all made it back to the trailhead in one piece so no harm no foul, just a few more gray hairs amongst us. And now I'm in discussions with the local bike shop regarding either upgrading the existing wheel with a 350 or 370 hub or getting an entire wheel + hub combo from a supplier, whichever makes more sense. I'm telling myself that this is all in the name of providing quality education to the team riders that you can have a very fast, fun and capable hardtail. Yeah, that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Arishtat fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Feb 29, 2024 |
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Feb 29, 2024 04:45
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Polish posted:I'm 5'9" 180ish pounds trying to get to 165-170. The only reason I went up to 50 was because the tire claimed 45-60 PSI so I figured 50 was on the safer side. I am not too familiar with tube tires though so any information is helpful. The numbers printed on the tire are the maximum pressure it is designed to withstand and not representative of what is good or useful. We are roughly the same spec and on inner tubes I’d be looking at high 20s to low 30s for pressure based on how smooth or rocky the trails that you ride are. With inner tubes you have to balance squish and grip vs too much squish will result in pinching the inner tube between the tire and wheel rim which leads to ripping the inner tube. If you put too much pressure in the tire it’ll ride like crap as in bounce off of obstacles vs deflect over them and also you’ll lose lateral grip which leads to sketchy cornering. Finding the correct tire pressure is a bit of an art; basically you start at a sane baseline for your weight and trail conditions and adjust to preferences as you go until you get a feel for what 28lsi feels like vs 30 or 33 and then you can get into advanced topics like front vs rear. Personally I like my front to have just a little less pressure and therefore more squish than my rear unless I’m riding in muddy conditions in which case I might sacrifice rolling resistance for as much grip as I can get without risking bashing the rim on a rock or root or having the sidewall fold over whilst cornering. On tubeless on a really messy ride I went down to like 10-12 psi, hills were a slog but the downs were magnificent even when I was two wheel drifting around corners! Edit 2: Yeah there are tubeless tires and they are amazing. Note: tubeless tires require compatible rims but you can often get take offs on consignment at your local bike shop for low $$$ vs buying a new set or having a set built. Arishtat fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 03:34
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Polish posted:Alright, I'm quickly starting to "get it" with the whole mountain bike thing. Just this conversation about tire pressure has me all excited, I need to go back and read this thread. I was just doing this to get in to some sort of shape, but now I am thinking this could be a new stupid expensive hobby. What have you done. They really don’t de-bead thanks to the Kevlar cords in the tire beads, but they will just go flat and if you ride them enough like that (say in an emergency or racing) it’ll chew through the sidewall just like a car tire. Also stop now while you still can, this hobby is a total(ly fun and worthwhile) money pit. I sat that just having bought what I thought was just going to be a hub upgrade for my hardtail that turned into a full wheel set plus fork! Thanks to the NICA discount and my very accommodating friends at the shop this only cost a mere *cough* $1200 and basically doubled the price of the bike overall but I got a better fork, 5x110mm through axle (vs quick release) and a DT Swiss 350 54t hub on lighter Royal rims wrapped in a blackwall Purgatory up front and a Ground Control rear. TLDR is I now have a decently racy 29er hard tail to run the spring short track series on and teach kids how to race hardtails (once I learn myself that is). Arishtat fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 04:16
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Polish posted:I'm a mechanical engineer and a Jeep owner so this is all scratching all sorts of itches right now.. Theres an offroad youtube guy that just had some big event where Berm Peak drove up a trail in Utah and then rode his bike down it if you wanna check it out (hopefully timestamped): Check out Skills With Phil, Joy of Bike and Roxy’s Ride & Inspire for no bullshit riding skills and drills. Speaking of Jeeps and mountain bikes this is a pic from the COVID trip my friend and I took to WV to ride Snowshoe and totally not camp in the raft landing parking on the New River.  
Arishtat fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Mar 27, 2024 |
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Mar 27, 2024 04:26
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Tenacious J posted:I'm wondering what new kind of bike I should get. Gravel bike? Full sus MTB? Trail/XC? If you're looking to have one bike to rule them all (for now, lol) I'd be looking at short-travel full suspensions with a lockout lever. Possible models: - Canyon Neuron -Canyon Lux Trail if you're feeling racy and willing to spend a little extra for that - Specialized Stumpjumper - Scott Spark (personal fave but check your LBS to see if they can get Scott-specific parts such as frame bushings) The models I suggested are all either 'Downcountry' or 'Trail' bikes so look for those from your preferred bike vendors. More on mountain bike types from The Pro's Closet: https://www.theproscloset.com/blogs/news/the-mountain-bike-spectrum-6-mtb-types-explained
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Mar 28, 2024 12:52
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Tenacious J posted:Thanks to everyone for the help, I really appreciate all the info and it's led me to two different Trek bikes. Budget is 3000-4000 CAD, but less is obviously better. Non-admin note: both links lead to the Fuel EX Checkpoint ALR 5
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Mar 29, 2024 20:49
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Polish posted:I'm looking for a bike rack for my Jeep and this is terrifying. There is a few 100-150 dollar options that might work okay.. but I know I should be looking at the 400ish bigger name brand options. Anything with fabric straps I just imagine will fall off in the middle of the road, can't have my free Schwinn or potential walmart bike taking that kind of damage. Also, a proper carrier will be more expensive than my bike which seems insane, but I also don't want anything to fall off into the road which could be a disaster on many levels. There are a lot of spare tire mounted options, but I think I want to go with a hitch mounted since I can at least use that on a future vehicle when my Jeep dies. I can always just throw it in the back for now so I have time to weigh my options here. Yeah you're not going to like this but: https://yakima.com/products/spareride This may also work with an extender to clear the spare tire: https://www.swagman.net/collections/hitch-mount-racks/products/xc2-hitch-mount
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Apr 10, 2024 04:12
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:I like the ground keeper styles ones for that, they just catch the mud that would be thrown forward into your face. Idk if the neoprene ones would have the coverage. 2nded for this style front mud guard, plus you can get them in all kinds of funky liveries to complement or clash with your bike's colors, and/or represent your favorite whatever
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Apr 12, 2024 16:47
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