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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Bottom Liner posted:

So we had gravel specific suspension forks earlier this year, now we get a "gravel dropper post"

https://bikepacking.com/news/easton-ea70-ax-gravel-dropper-post/


:v:

27.2mm: good

50mm travel: why loving bother

e:

0mm offset: dumb as hell on a road bike

internally routed: wont work with 99% of gravel/cross bikes out there currently

Clark Nova fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Aug 7, 2020

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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

yeah, clearing out last year's models at a steep discount is pretty normal (in a normal year)

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

camelbak makes a lumbar pack for mountain biking, and there's also http://www.wingnutgear.com/ who make a range of low-slung backpacks. I've never been interested enough to spend $100+ to try the idea out, though

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

bamhand posted:

Orange seal

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I have an osprey raptor 10, probably a previous revision at this point. I like it, though I haven't owned any other hydration pack

e: getting up to go look at the thing instead of just glancing at their website, mine is actually a "talon 11" which is no longer made. Great naming convention, guys

Clark Nova fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Feb 25, 2021

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

jesus WEP posted:

*Rainier Wolfcastle voice* my mech, the dork disc does nothing

lmao imagine a 300mm dork disc that could actually save a modern 1x derailleur

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Boogalo posted:

My 2020 roscoe 8 had a cage bearing headset and got super crunchy contaminated with mud within 2 months and they wouldn't warranty it :mad:


I'm mad on your behalf that they put a caged bearing headset on a real bike in tyool 2020. wtf?

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

FYI you can get a DT Swiss or Hope hub into those "boost 141" frames if you put quick release end caps on a boost-spaced hub. I still wouldn't want one, though

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

PoorPeteBest posted:

I do tubeless without a compressor. Most times I can get it done with a floor pump but I ended up getting one of these a few years ago and it always works:

http://www.airshotltd.com/

I have the specialized version of this ("air tool blast") and it's great. It's cheaper and feels less wasteful than buying a cruddy little air compressor I have no other use for.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Great, thanks. I'll go in to the local shop and see how much it would cost to get a dropper installed. I could probably do it myself but I have so much other stuff to work on that I might want to pay someone to do it for me and I'd like to support that shop if I can.

I'm not sure internally-routed dropper posts even existed in 2013. You may have to get an external dropper, which either has a lever at the seatpost clamp or a cable leading from there to the handlebars. It limits your options a bit but is much less of a pain in the rear end to install

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

taqueso posted:

I thought this book was really good and it could help you with cornering. I got it after I had been mountain biking for years and felt like I knew what I was doing and still learned a lot of stuff about body position and weight distribution; and navigating corners, bumps, etc.



be sure to get the latest edition of this book because they revised and modernized it quite a lot.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

vikingstrike posted:

You can rebuild SRAM calipers.

the easy rebuild process is to have your bike shop RMA them :v:

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Bud Manstrong posted:

I’ve had luck looking at the exploded diagram and ordering individual parts to repair stuff like lever blades and RD bits, but I bet that’ll get you close to or over the price of a new RD in this case.

almost every time I've looked up parts by number like that the only seller for the part was that japanese ebay shop that wants like $30 to ship items to the US :smith:

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Conventional wisdom is to size up for mountain bikes and size down for road bikes. MTB design adding ~50mm reach in the space of half a decade seems nuts on paper but it works for me :shrug:

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Yup, you’ll probably have to top up your sealant every few months. IME orange seal endurance really does last longer

e: by far the east and best way to add sealant is to take out the presta valve core and squirt it in with a purpose-made syringe or injector bottle with a little hose

Clark Nova fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Apr 30, 2023

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

prom candy posted:

Any old grease will do?

yeah, standard automotive grease is fine, a tub will last you decades. I use waterproof marine grease

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

lol I hope that snaps off really easily

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

MuadDib Atreides posted:

Ok. Are they all the same? The shop had specailized brand for $60

yeah, I don't remember where I read it but most name-brand shock pumps literally come from the same factory

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Ropes4u posted:

Probably the last question

Ibis website says I should get a large but the internets say a medium will also work and be more playful.

I’m 5’10” with a 32” inseam and average arms. I emailed N1 to see what they thought

I’m about the same and got a large because when I climbed on top of the fucker for a test ride it seemed like it was made for me

e: assuming your dropper doesn’t immediately disintegrate like at the top of the page, you can make it feel a lot better by getting a nicer dropper lever. Wolf tooth or whatever.

Clark Nova fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Sep 6, 2023

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

spwrozek posted:

Can someone explain to me what a "nice dropper lever is"? I have only had the dropper lever from bontrager that came in my trek. I push and the seat goes up and down... What am I missing?


Ergonomics mostly. A good lever should be easy to press without taking your hand off the brakes and should feel crisp and reliable instead of mushy and inconsistent. If it isn't annoying you, you don't need a new one

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

post hole digger posted:

Been thinking about picking up a mountain bike lately, a lot. I mostly have a road/"gravel"/underbiking trails background and ive spent a lot of time on a surly crosscheck, but after getting creamed by a car a few years ago, i haven't had the appetite to ride road again for some reason. i don't really know poo poo about mountain bikes though. I've been doing some basic research on buyers guides, but a lot of that stuff only goes so far -- I've been looking at Surly again, and think the Ghost Grappler and the (front suspension) Karate Monkey are both pretty interesting albeit obviously quite different. I want to be able to hit the local singletrack in the morning and occasionally take on some longer fire road/gravel/single track hauls on the weekends. I did a fair amount of bikepacking on my Crosscheck before I met my wife but idk how much of it I'd do these days. My head tells me the Karate Monkey would make more sense for quick shred sessions (bay area, hilly and dry), although I can't get over how much I dig the GG.

Besides the Surly setups, what other manufacturers should I be looking at if I'm after a steel hardtail? I think I slightly prefer having front sus if I'm not going with something funky like the GG, and definitely am not looking for a gravel bike or cyclocross bike. I seent that steel Kona Honzo but its almost $600 more than the KM. not a deal breaker necessarily, but a bit of a difference there.

That leads me to my other questions, which is about the geo differences of something like the Honzo vs a KM -- is there anything anyone can recommend me about the basics of MTB geometry and what to consider when looking at bikes? I know the GG has a comparatively high bottom bracket and is obviously kind of a beast unto itself, but with more standard mtb geometry, I don't really know a ton about what to consider when reading up on stuff. seat tube angles are too slack on the KM? 150mm suspension fork on the KM is too... much(?)? I don't know what any of this means. I just want to shred some trails this fall.

The Kona Unit X is steel, rigid, bikepacking-oriented and probably more widely available and a better value than Surly. Chromag specializes in shreddy steel hardtails but they're not particularly cheap

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I'd say a major factor would be whether ebikes are even allowed on your local/favorite trail system but it turns out nobody loving cares

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

Platystemon posted:

wtf the “Barcentric” 2×‐friendly dropper lever that I ordered on Aliexpress from an 80% positive feedback seller arrived, and it’s exactly what it’s supposed to be.

I thought that it was pretty likely that I would get nothing or a totally different product and have to file a dispute, but no, it probably came out of the same factory. Especially because it has the brand’s printing on it; that was only Photoshopped out for the listing.

That saved me sixty bucks, but not really because I would have settled for a PNW Puget at thirty instead of forking over seventy‐five for a Barcentric at Wolf Tooth’s prices. Options for 2×‐friendly levers aren’t great. Then again, I could have followed the maintenance thread title advice to use friction shifting in the front.

heh, I thought all of wolf tooth's stuff was manufactured domestically, but I checked and that particular dropper lever conspicuously does *not* say made in the USA on the product page

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

I imagine the only difference between a name brand mudguard and an amazon allcaps mudguard is that the latter will say "CJNGIADF" instead of "Mucky Nutz" so it is an all around improvement

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Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

lol I bet that kickstand is like two pounds by itself

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