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oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Frozen Pizza Party posted:

I almost spit out my drink, I saw the title load "3d printed", thought, oh cool, some printed nylon pulley wheels, I could print some of those as backups-WHAT THE gently caress

3D metal printing has come a long way in the last few years.

That pulley is pure showing off but the tech is real.

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oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Is there a primer on what bike to buy? It seems to be missing from the OP.

I want to get back into mountain biking after not doing it since high school but don't know where to start. I bike for my commute and errands almost daily. I've built up every bike I've owned for the last ~15 years but none of them were even vaguely for off road so my knowledge is pretty limited in the mtb world.

I'll probably ride mostly singletrack in the general Seattle area, where flat land does not exist. What features am I looking for? Full suspension? Any particular travel or geometry? What wheel size? I'm about 6' 2" so is 29er a good option or is that choice just personal preference?

Buying a full bike is the obvious easy solution here, but I'm also not opposed to piecing one together. I enjoying the process of finding and choosing parts, and through a volunteer thing I do I have access to the QBP catalog and a fully equipped professional shop. My timeline is to have something rideable by next spring so I'm in no rush. Not sure what my budget is exactly but I don't want to cheap out.

Any recommendations?

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

bicievino posted:

Most folks I see riding around here (greater Seattle area) fall in to a few categories of bike:
The hardtail masochists: you can do it, but even the folks I ride with who love their hardtails admit that many trails just aren't as fun on em

Full suspension xc bike: light enough to not hate the climbs, enough travel (barely) to enjoy most everything.

Trail bikes: for if you don't mind kinda hating the climb to enjoy the descents more

Emtbs: for if you dgaf about the climbing and just want to go downhill. not legal on most trails but doesn't seem to stop folks?

Everyone is on 29" wheels, and I'd be surprised if even with qbp access you could build something up cheaper than a full bike. OEM pricing is too good.

Thanks!

I forgot to say that I'll almost certainly be adding a motor kit to this bike. I jumped on the ebike train about 6 years ago its been amazing. No idea what the legality of ebike on trails is but I see them out when I'm hiking fairly regularly. I've found on the street that simply not riding like an rear end in a top hat prevents any trouble.

Given that I'm planning on making it an ebike, does a trail bike make sense over XC?

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

If you're gonna put a motor kit on it just buy an ebike.

I prefer kits for several reasons. Configurability, power, mod-ability, etc.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Aphex- posted:

You won't prefer it on a mountain bike.

Why not? Not being stubborn, I'm curious why it would be worse on a mountain bike than a street bike.

A modern mid drive kit installed carefully installed is functionally identical to OEM models. The motor weight is in the same place, torque sensing is built in, there's more freedom on battery placement, and with some effort the wiring doesn't get in the way.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

VelociBacon posted:

There's too much variation in frame design to really be able to recommend something for an ebike kit since we don't know the requirements.

I don't need specific bikes, general categories are enough. Part of the project for me is figuring out frame's that will work with the system I want to use.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Car Hater posted:

Get a bosch drive and slap a rohloff on, tear that poo poo (your wallet) up

https://www.cyclemonkey.com/blog/tech-talk-retrofit-your-e-bike-rohloff-e-14-electronic-shifting

Lol. I actually run an IGH on my street bike, but it'd get shredded if I tried to use it much offroad. There are a couple new IGH's supposedly rated for ebike power coming out this year, but who knows if they're real and/or any cheaper than a Rohloff.


Aphex- posted:

Mountain biking is so different from street biking, if you kitted up a non stock MTB with a motor and battery like a street bike I wouldn't be surprised if it failed after one rough downhill trail.

EMTBs have had an insane amount of thought and effort invested in their design over years of iteration and are only just now becoming actually good. They still have problems but they'll have fewer problems than any home made DIY job.

Buuut if you are intent on doing it yourself then hell yes do it and post your frankenbike in this thread.

Building the bike is half the fun! I do product design and engineering for a living and its fun to use those skills for personal projects.

For reference I'll probably end up with something like this setup, battery shape/position notwithstanding.


And here's my current bike. The only part of the kit I'd be worried about mountain biking is the battery mount. That's something I'll need to be pretty careful with for mtb.



vikingstrike posted:

Please dont throttle drive a dirt bike at 20+ mph on MUPs and trails. TIA.

I already go out of my to avoid doing that. The only times I let the bike get to full speed and power are on long downhills on the road or once in awhile I'm stuck riding in fast car traffic.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Car Hater posted:

Don't ask how I know but yes and no in order.

Hell yeah and dammit. Thanks.

n8r posted:

Do the kit setups have the motor tied to pedaling or is it just all throttle? I would think most of those motors aren’t designed for the vibrations/impacts that a mtb can hand out.

Depends on the kit. The newer and better ones have crank torque sensing like any prebuilt system does. Most of them are configurable for any combination of pedal sensing control and/or throttle control you can think of.

They're absolutely durable enough for mountain bike use and people have been doing so for a decade. Vibrations aren't any different from a prebuilt motor. Direct impacts might be a bigger issue but they're basically a clock of metal. Anything that would damage it would damage any other part of the bike too.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Is Canyon a reputable brand? I've been thinking about getting a trail bike after renting one a couple times and enjoying it alot.

This guy in large matches the geometry of the bike rented pretty closely.

Followup - how do I evaluate the different versions of each bike? I'm reasonably familiar with components and frame materials, but I'm hopelessly lost about suspension.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Thanks for the detailed feedback!

Lack of shop support is fine, I have almost a full set of bike tools in my garage and have access to a fully equipped shop as well.

I'll have to do at least a little research on suspension systems based on your comments.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Eejit posted:

My gf rides a Canyon almost identical to the one you're looking at (might actually be the women's version) and loves it. Springing for upgraded parts is almost always worth it.

Any parts in particular besides the rear shifter that I should be looking at?

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Frozen Pizza Party posted:

Not sure how long the sale is, but YT is offering 25% off currently.

The Core 2 looks to be nearly identical to the Canyon Neuron (CF) aside from SRAM->Shimano group and an aluminum rear triangle instead of CF. Seems like a no brainer with the sale up.

I know nothing about the SRAM groups either. Does the Eagle NX shifter have the same issue as SLX does relative to XT where it can only shift one gear at a time?

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Just order a Core 3 what have I done

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
I guess its the Izzo Core 3. Their naming convention is atrocious.

Looking forward to fussing with the suspension setup. Its the one bike thing I know basically nothing about. Soon I'll have strong opinions on rebound and bounce rates and other things I don't really understand.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
New bike day!



I've gone through a dozen bikes in the last 15ish years but haven't had a brand new one since I saved up $300 and bought a "mountain bike" in middle school.

Now if it would just stop raining for a few days...

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Now that I actually have a bike I have questions.

First, is there a way to flatten disc brake rotors? The front has enough wobble it scrapes one pad every rotation and almost scrapes the other. I swear this happens with every disc brake I have and I've never had a good fix for it.

Second, what's the consensus on clipless pedals? I've ridden extensively on the street with clipless and even some moderate trail riding. When I rented a trail bike a few weeks ago I just went with the stock flat pedals but it was unnerving every time I hit even small jumps. I was always worried my feet would come off the pedals mid air. Is that a technique thing or should I throw some SPDs on this bike?

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Thanks!

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
I'll try the recommended centering steps for the brake rotor before I start bending anything. It's only rubbing in one spot so its probably not the wheel itself, but a poorly clamped rotor makes sense.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Got the rotor fixed. In the end it was warped and only took a light bending to straighten it enough.

I reseated the wheel, removed the rotor and carefully torqued back down the bolts to no avail. The caliper was already nicely centered. ~300deg of the disc was dead on straight, and just a ~60deg section of the disc was clearly bent on a closer look. I confirmed the bend when I had the rotor loose by watching it wobble when I put it on my flat reference surface.

It's good to know that fix is so simple, I figured there was some fancy tool to bend the rotor but a simple adjustable wrench provided a nice flat, smooth, and tightly fitted way to do light duty bending.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

stratdax posted:

I wrote my British friend's bike with moto style brakes and now I'm all twisted around. I now think it might actually be the right way to do it and I just know I will completely forget how my own bike is setup in the middle of a techy section.

Years ago I switched all my bikes to moto style, even the street bikes, but my shiny new trail bike has the standard setup. It's definitely going to be confusing for a bit. Worst case I have to replace the brakes to match the rest.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
What's the etiquette on riding after or in the rain? If a trail is marked all-season or "wet weather friendly" on Trailforks is it fair game? Obviously if its a mud pit I'll turn around and go home.

I've got this shiny new bike and all I've done is taken it for a lap around the neighborhood, I'm itching to get it on a real trail. Unfortunately where I live the rain forecast for any given day this time of year is: Yes.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

bicievino posted:

Depends on the region and soil.

Where I'm at in the PNW, rain is fine, but freeze/thaw is a no-go.

That's where I'm at too. Sounds like I'm good to go.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Is Trailforks useless without the pay version?

I've been using it intermittently and finally ran out of the free trial. It seems like even basic features are locked out now.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

stratdax posted:

"To be clear, the website and access to maps and trail data remains free on the website. Only the map outside your free area in the Trailforks app will be greyed out unless you become a PRO subscriber."

Seems like if you're in your home zone the app should have the same functionality.

But do you have use of any of the other features the Outside+ package gives you? Gaia GPS pro, outside magazine / movie streaming, etc? The whole package is like $35 for the year.

The map in the mobile app is the major thing that's missing and I can get by with the website for now. If I end up using it much I'll pay up, its a great service.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Nohearum posted:

It would be nice if someone came up with a belt drive double speed. Just something that could switch between a climbing and descending gear with minimal mass.

I keep waiting for a two speed, wide range IGH but all the 2-3 speeds models have tiny gear ranges that seem to be meant for flat land cruising.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Do mountain bike helmets come with removable visors these days?

My one helmet needs replacing and I'd like to use it for street riding and mountain too, but its realllllly nice to have an old school cyclist's cap on while on the street. The tight fit lets it block rain and sun (or both) depending on the season.

My ideal helmet would let me swap between the visor for offroad, and cap for on road. I did some cursory research but it doesn't seem like any helmets have that feature.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Thanks for the feedback, it looks like I need to go to some stores and check in person if they're not advertising which ones are removable. I really want it to be fully removable 'cause it'll look dumb with double visors, and also my typical street rides involve some high speed downhills (25-30mph) and I don't want the air pulling my head back.

That Smith one spwrozek posted looks good but I have a pretty normal sized head so the cheaper S sized ones aren't an option and the only medium ones on sale aren't my jam.


On another note, I took my barely ridden YT Core 3 out for like the 3rd time after buying it over the winter and I definitely need to make some adjustments. I'd intended to ride regularly but hurt my back right after I got it and took a long stretch off of all riding.

First, gloves seem less optional than I thought, my palms are pretty blistered. I didn't think it'd be an issue because I ride daily on the road, but that was a mistake. Is there anything special I should look for in gloves for summer use?

Second, I forgot that I have super wide hips and stock seats never fit. The one it came with is noticeably too narrow. Any recommendations for wider seats? Bonus points if I can get it through QBP since I get a discount through the co-op I volunteer at.

Third, I need to replace the cheapo pedals it came with. Don't need anything fancy and bonus points again for something I can QBP order.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Thanks for all the recommendations. I'll start tracking this stuff down.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
OK, starting to narrow in on all these accessories.

I found some TLD Airs at the local Evo, which I'm glad I tried on in person. In most brands large was about right but the XL was perfect for TLD. Rode with them on my commute today and I should have done this earlier.

For the saddle, is the WTB SL8 meant for trail riding and some light-moderate? It only talks about gravel and cyclocross and other non-mtb stuff. Or is a saddle just a saddle?
Also my sit bones are right at the boundary between medium and wide, assuming my poke my rear end with my calipers measuring method worked so gotta figure that out somehow.


Got the Crank Bros Stamps on order, still need to look more at helmets in person.

Thanks again for all the help y'all!



VelociBacon posted:

I love fox ranger gloves, I run the gel ones for DH, the non-gel ones for other riding and even sim racing.

Gonna have to try that next time I set up the rig. It's been an embarrassingly long time since I've done the Sunday goonrace.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Stopped by the local REI today and use their rear end-o-meter to help choose a saddle. Apparently my bones are way wider than I thought, I'm well into the WIDE category and I've probably been using the wrong size for 20 years.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Nohearum posted:

WTB Koda is good for this

I went with the WTB SL8 someone recommended up thread. Should be here in a week or so, I'm curious how much it helps.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

evil_bunnY posted:

thicc boi club!

It's just the hips, I'm like 6'2" 170 so everyone assumes I'm super skinny.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
I'm in the Seattle area and looking for somewhere to ride besides Duthie now that I have some practice.

I was going to check out Tokul but apparently it's been closed for while and the trail reports are saying to stay away while they clean it up.

Is there anywhere else that's moderately challenging but doesn't include any intense downhill that I should try? The only other place I've been is Grand Ridge, which was more or less a shakedown ride.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Finally got a out for real ride today on my newish bike, this was by far the longest and most intense ride I've done. Had a great time but I'm going to be mighty sore tomorrow. The ride was ~9 miles round trip, just short of 2k ft up then down. I need to track down a similar trail but like a third to half as long.

I was still using the stock seat and pedals and could really feel it. The replacement parts should arrive this week luckily.

A few questions:

- My lower back was getting pretty sore by the end of the descent. This isn't an entirely new injury but I wonder if there are any setup and technique changes I can make to help with that. Would a higher riser bar help? The stock one is 20mm rise. I'll definitely be doing some more studying about riding position too. I did some quick youtubing and even that has already helped, but I was so tired from the climb I doubt I was anywhere near ideal technique.

- I really really need glasses, any recommendations? It never occurred to me how important they are until I was screaming down a bug, dust, and branch filled trail at 20mph

- Likewise, I should probably get some proper shoes. The worn out sneakers I was wearing combined with lovely pedals almost got me wrecked a couple times. I remember some good shoechat a few months ago but don't recall any recommendations.



MuadDib Atreides posted:

What in the world is a chamferless socket

Normal sockets have that nice lead-in to help you get it over the nut/bolt head. That lead-in is the chamfer. Chamferless sockets have sharp crisp edges to increase engagement distance like meow^3 said. Example: https://www.modernbike.com/fox-chamferless-topcap-socket-for-32-forks-26mm-3-8-drive

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Aphex- posted:

Is it a pain soreness or just a muscle tiredness soreness? I can't help with the pain one but if it's muscle tiredness just doing more descents will help. My descents are usually anywhere between 50m to 200m in one go and when I was in the Alps earlier in the month I was doing 2000m descents in one go and my lower back was definitely getting tired then! Just core exercises will help, planks, squats, deadlifts etc or just riding more.

Cycling specific glasses can be quite expensive, all the big brands do them. I have some Smith Wildcats which are good but I got them on sale for half price, no way in hell would I pay full price for them! A lot of people use £10 safety glasses you can buy on amazon. I'm not a huge fan since they can be quite distorted but they will definitely get you by for now.

Like glasses, shoes can be pretty pricey too. Getting a pair of actual flat pedal MTB specific shoes helps so much though, it's an essential purchase imo. Look at Five Tens, Ride Concepts, Shimano, Specialized, Giro. The most popular shoe I see around is the Five Ten Freerider Pro. Very sticky, quite stiff so good support for pedalling and descents.

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll be adding some core work to my existing PT routine sounds like. Cheapo safety glasses are easy to find (including in my garage) so I'll try that first. Shoes might be worth the money, I'll have to try some on in person locally.


A totally different tune-up question: A decade ago I was learning to ride motorcycles and reconfigured all my bikes to be right-hand front brake so I'd get less confused, and I've been riding them that way since. My mountain bike came set up the conventional left-hand front way and it's messing with my muscle memory pretty bad.

Is it possible to swap which hose connects to which brake lever so I can have consistency? I've been digging through the service manuals for the SRAM G2 R levers it came with and it doesn't look like there's any reason why not. The manuals don't make any distinction between left/right or front/back, all of the instructions are generic. The local co-op I volunteer at keeps hydraulic brake service tools on hand so other than consumables I already have access to most of the tools I'd need.

Remove hoses, cut off existing fittings, install new hose barbs and compression fittings, reassemble onto opposite levers, bleed system. Is there something I'm missing that makes this a bad idea?

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

jamal posted:

Just unclamp them from the bars and switch sides. Sram levers are the same left to right and have a bleed screw on both sides.

Oh goddammit I didn't even think to check that. The only other hydraulic brakes I've owned weren't reversible. Thanks for catching that! Adding that to the list of changes to happen when the saddle and pedals arrive.

On the plus side I know way more about my brakes' servicing than I did an hour ago.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

n8r posted:

I rode a transmission drivetrain. Pretty amazing. You can shift at any moment and it’s always smooth. Even standing on the pedals. Not a fan of the new shifter pod. I like the alternate trigger style shifter from the previous generation.

Can you tell us which one? I've been looking into those recently and if it they didn't cost $texas I'd probably have one on at least my street bike.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Setec_Astronomy posted:

You would probably enjoy a few other rides at Tiger. In particular, you could climb to the summit on Master Link -> Quick Link -> Power Link, then descend on East Tiger Summit until you reach the start of Preston. From there Side Hustle will take you down to Iverson, which you can take back to the parking lot.

The climbs are all smooth and very well built. Power Link is a great workout. The descending trails are flowy with some small root drops and other small features. Side Hustle has a bunch of rollable jumps but they ride great with zero air. Expect pretty loose/dusty conditions this time of year.

The other descending trail to consider is Extra Terrestrial. It's similarly flowy but less focused on jumps. The bottom of this trail is in the middle of nowhere though so you'll either need to pedal back to the end of Northwest Timber (and then back to the lot) or climb to Fully Rigid -> Joyride which might be too chunky for your tastes.

Edit: Also, I live 25 minutes from Tiger and ride there once or twice a week. I'd be happy to show you around.

I did the exact Side Hustle loop you described about 3 weeks ago, and then did the road up and Side Hustle -> Iverson down last weekend. The East Tiger Summit descent was in good condition but Side Hustle was definitely not. The brake bumps are pretty bad throughout right now. Other than that it's a great route and I'm looking forward to riding it when its in better shape.

I'm thinking about checking out the Raging River trails this weekend. Any advice on an intermediate route? The "Up, then flow" route on trailforks looks pretty solid. The only part that I'm not sure about is how difficult the Poppin' Tops upper section is.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

Thanks for all the info.

Now I just gave to decide if the smoke is too bad to ride or not :(

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oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
Is going tubeless worth the hassle?

The stock rims and tires my bike came with are tubeless capable but I haven't bothered to figure out how to make them tubeless. The process looks straightforward and I have most of the tools already.

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