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That's incredibly silly.
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Nov 8, 2020 05:32
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| # ? May 10, 2024 04:41 |
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For the defrost if you've taken out the heater core there are various small radiator and blower units you can use. We used https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/demon-tweeks-micro-heater-tsdmch/ in our chump/wrl car and it worked great. Had it mounted where the glovebox would have been then some ducting to a couple vents did the job even in some pretty nasty conditions. On the wiring side a big bulkhead connector at the firewall, or a couple smaller ones, is really nice. When you have to drop the engine and only have one connection to undo you'll thank yourself. It is expensive, time consuming and can introduce a failure point if you're not careful. I've seen some of the RyWire stuff and for the price it's a pretty nice, but not cheap, option. Not sure if it's a concern on that engine but assuming you're not going dry sump I'd toss a accusump or similar on there somewhere.
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Nov 8, 2020 12:25
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That heater looks perfect. Some kind of anti oil starvation will make it in. Dry sump sounds cool but way to expensive for what I'm trying to do. Accusump or heavily baffled pan probably. The nasa enduro series limits tires to 280 treadwear or higher so I think an aftermarket pan would probably be enough. At least until switching to something with slicks.  I love dimple dies. Going to try and keep the stock interior door handles. I've done the wire/nylon strap thing and while I appreciate the lightness they always seem to be fiddly to use. Also speaking of wiring. Anyone have a recommendation on software for doing wiring diagrams? Something where I could create items, run connections between them, and then move them around without breaking the connections would be amazing.
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Nov 8, 2020 17:45
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honda whisperer posted:Does anyone offer an extra tall hardtop/cage kit for miatas? I know there are kits to push the seat as low and far back as possible. You cut the floor out and install a drop pan, basically the only option. Problem with the drop pan is that your driving position will almost certainly be the lowest point in the car now and you will hit the pan on curbs whenever you start hopping them. I've seen plenty of people (Blackbird Fabworx is a popular one) who build cages that stick out over the roof. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Nov 8, 2020 |
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Nov 8, 2020 19:54
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honda whisperer posted:OK, time for the list. I know I'm missing a lot but this is the start. Ill chuck it in the op too and update it there / as it goes in the thread. Brakes: There is an interesting option with the honed booster delete kit. Setup to use a honda 7/8 master and get rid of the overboosted feeling brakes. Killswitch: Skip the lovely plastic handle ones, get something like the longacre with the metal handle. They last forever. Window net: Make sure to go with something quick release. Either the hook latch style or the ones where you push forward and it pops down. A lot of older cars use a spring on rod setup that can be really hard to undo one handed, especially if if you can't see or are upside down. I have the hook latch and I can just flick it with my hand to drop the net. Belts: Skip SFI poo poo, go FIA for the 5 year expiry. My preference is schroth, mainly the enduro because of the adjustment being at the buckle. Very easy to belt yourself in. Bushings: On the rear, avoid poly for the trailing arm. Either stay stock rubber, or go to a PCI spherical. Poly will shift and bind and do weird poo poo mid corner. It works fine everywhere else as a budget option. If you're baller as hell do Kingpin Machine sphericals everywhere. Suspension: Skip all the cheap poo poo. The koni SPSS race valved shocks are quite good for entry level, and relatively affordable. Or if you don't care about having adjustment, the whitner racing shocks are some home brew goodness: http://www.whitener-racing.com/. Hubs: I'm not sure if you can still get them for EF, but I only buy OE honda rear hubs. They are expensive but outlast any other brand by *years*. Axles: Locally, we have had really good luck with repacking parts store axles with quality grease and venting the boots. My local track isn't a lot of sustained high G high speed corners though, so YMMV.
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Nov 8, 2020 23:23
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Crustashio posted:Belts: Skip SFI poo poo, go FIA for the 5 year expiry. My preference is schroth, mainly the enduro because of the adjustment being at the buckle. Very easy to belt yourself in. Some good advice here. On the belts my preference is finding lap belts that you pull up or towards the buckle to tighten, way easier to get them just right and not run into the seat.
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Nov 9, 2020 00:26
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honda whisperer posted:
Def X-Bars kind of like this -  It's more fiddly to get the bars bent and located but you end up with a stronger cage, esp if you add gussets. Has the side intrusion strength of a NASCAR style door beams too - and if you want to, it can be bent to give you more room esp if you are gutting the doors.
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Nov 9, 2020 00:52
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Crustashio posted:Suspension: Skip all the cheap poo poo. The koni SPSS race valved shocks are quite good for entry level, and relatively affordable. Or if you don't care about having adjustment, the whitner racing shocks are some home brew goodness: http://www.whitener-racing.com/. The fastest EFs at my local autox use Whitener setups, FTD is consistently a stockish R.
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Nov 9, 2020 05:37
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Crustashio posted:Brakes: There is an interesting option with the honed booster delete kit. Setup to use a honda 7/8 master and get rid of the overboosted feeling brakes. Killer post. I'm going to email Whitener Racing about a custom setup given how light my car is going to be. One other question, when you talk about the poly RTA bushings, I assume you mean energy suspension? I went with HardRace solid rubber and was wondering your thoughts. I did slightly clock them as I have the car very low.
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Nov 9, 2020 06:10
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NitroSpazzz posted:Some good advice here. On the belts my preference is finding lap belts that you pull up or towards the buckle to tighten, way easier to get them just right and not run into the seat. Trying to make pull up belts work is the reason I'm running the OMP version of a schroth Enduro (which isn't as good). The main issue was the adjuster position was not adjustable relative to the mounting eyelet and they wound up just inside the seat. Could maybe have fixed it by raising the seat or relocating the mounting eyes, but it was easier to just get new belts. 4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:Killer post. I'm going to email Whitener Racing about a custom setup given how light my car is going to be. One other question, when you talk about the poly RTA bushings, I assume you mean energy suspension? I went with HardRace solid rubber and was wondering your thoughts. I did slightly clock them as I have the car very low. Yes, energy is the most common for poly. Hardrace is fine. I've done a few stints in a friend's CRX with stock rear rubber and the rear end feels predictable.
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Nov 9, 2020 13:50
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Yall see this crazy poo poo https://www.instagram.com/p/CHYWO3mHnXg/?igshid=8xsnky4lu68s
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Nov 9, 2020 23:09
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Searching around it seems whitner shocks are the hot ticket on a budget. Looks like about double konis but with everything but springs makes it closer. Still, suspension isn't the place to skimp.  Got the brackets for the interior door handles tacked up. Plenty rigid and opens easily. If I get out of work at a reasonable hour tomorrow, door bars.
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Nov 10, 2020 03:17
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Made the first half of one door bar. Decided to go for the bent x style. That first one isn't so bad. It can kinda land where it wants. That second one has to match the first though. Transfered everything over as best as I could with paper and a sharpie.  First notch fit great... The second one I did backwards. Everything lined up from above and notch 2 had a 1/4" gap. gently caress. So I tossed it into the one day I'll be a gusset pile and tried again  Round 2 went much better. Now for the top half.
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Nov 14, 2020 02:35
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I don't know anything about cages. Do they have to be the same for evenly distributing crash forces?
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Nov 14, 2020 12:07
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It's not required. A lot of times people will just do a straight x on the passenger side and be fancy on the driver's. Doing that won't save much weight though with the style of door bars I'm using. Also starting out I'll have an instructor in the passenger seat and they'll appreciate the extra room and safety.
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Nov 14, 2020 13:47
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Got it. I think I was reading too much into “has to match the first.”
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Nov 14, 2020 14:41
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It's mostly that if they're different it will bother me every time I look at it.
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Nov 14, 2020 18:48
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Are you planning to run a vertical bar down to the door sill, or just the X?
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Nov 14, 2020 20:03
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Been debating that. I'd rather run a horizontal bar along the door sill and then do a vertical tie into that with the horizontal bar tied into the chassis. That would give me the x-bars in compression and the sill bar in tension. Might cause access issues to weld though. Straight to the door sill would probably be a low effort low weight upgrade though. Your $.02?
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Nov 14, 2020 22:37
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 Rough idea of what I mean represented by string. Edit:  Getting close honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Nov 14, 2020 |
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Nov 14, 2020 22:46
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I would do what you have shown with the string. Are you gonna make some taco gussets for the x-bar? honda whisperer posted:It's mostly that if they're different it will bother me every time I look at it. When we caged my car the upper doorbar wasn't perfect side to side and the top bar across the windshield is at a visible angle compared to the roofline. I will always run a windshield banner.
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Nov 14, 2020 23:33
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Crustashio posted:I would do what you have shown with the string. I can feel the last part of this post in my soul. As for taco gussets yes. Or at least one full tube on each side and then fill the area between them with plates on both sides. Probably thinner material for the plates, dimple died in the center of each triangle, full .120 wall dom on both ends.
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Nov 15, 2020 01:12
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 That has been a massive pain in the rear end. On to the passenger side.  o7 future gussets. One lower and one upper scrapped. I've got the passenger side bent and notched on one end. If it works awesome. If not I've got enough for one more attempt. After that I'll have to order more. It'll be slow going for a bit. Works gotten nuts, and I'm getting a new cnc Tuesday. It'll be the shops first five axis so I'll be busy trying to figure out wtf I'm doing.
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Nov 19, 2020 02:34
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Notched on one end door bar suffered a crime. I bent it back the other way. This made for an excellent template. The last bit of tube worked... Ok. I might take one more crack at it. Have to order another 20' stick but eh, that's not that bad. It's definitely close enough to check clearances and whatnot while I mock up everything else. I don't have to sweat it until it's time to finish weld the door bars. I then immediately chopped it up so I couldn't accidentally use it elsewhere.  Start of the tacos went much easier.  Thought tossing the seat back in would be a good idea too.   Had to bend the left shoulder winglet in a bit to clear the cage, but it's surprisingly far from my actual shoulder. Clearance seems good. Elbows and knees are plenty far away. I might adjust the seat mount to be a hair more to the center and forward though. Not counting finishing welding the door bars, the cage is now sufficient to pass tech. Still debating the bars along the door sills. I'm also thinking about adding an x between the rear most bit and where the top of the door bars meet the main hoop.  The upper part of the door bars looks a little forlorn. But it's also a civic that will probably top out between 115 and 125mph. How much should one trade safety for speed? I will be making plates to tie everything to the chassis everywhere I can. A and b pillars will be friends with the cage too so that will back them up. Also not doing rally.
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Nov 21, 2020 02:57
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honda whisperer posted:I'm also thinking about adding an x between the rear most bit and where the top of the door bars meet the main hoop. More X's are good. You'll be continuing that diagonal from the roof to harness bar to floor right? I'm assuming that's what the chunk laying on the floor is for. Cage is turning out nice, you'll be glad you spent the extra time with the door bars for more space.
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Nov 21, 2020 12:37
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Yep that's it. I don't feel like dodging it while laying out fuel and brake lines.
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Nov 21, 2020 13:22
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I felt like not notching and fitting tubes for a day, so I notched and fitted some sheet metal.  Started with some CAD. Poster board is awesome for this btw. It behaves much more like sheet metal than actual cardboard and traces better too. They're not identical but close enough. Mocked up.  Tried something new. The dimple die I'm borrowing has a thing to cut its own hole, but after using it, it bends the hell out of the metal around it. Took a chunk of scrap and went at it with a hole saw first. It worked really well.  Sawed out.  Tacked in.
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Nov 22, 2020 22:46
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New machine showed up at work today.  I've got 0 experience with 5 axis... Same with everyone else in the shop, and it's my problem to deal with. Car updates will probably slow down for a bit while I learn this thing. Could do some fusion/cnc posting in the meantime if you're interested though.
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Nov 25, 2020 03:31
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honda whisperer posted:Yep that's it. I don't feel like dodging it while laying out fuel and brake lines. Yep, X the main hoop and then add a single diagonal to the rear legs (Or other way round given no room to move with the X in the main hoop done) and that'll be the kind of cage you can send the car over a fence in a 7 times end for end barrel roll and walk out of. Those door bars are legit. Good work
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Nov 25, 2020 04:38
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honda whisperer posted:New machine showed up at work today. Yes, please do! There are several posters who will be interested.
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Nov 27, 2020 06:14
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I've gotten to mess with the cnc a bit. First thing I tried to make was a riser/adapter to get a 5th axis vise into the machine. Didn't get video of it actually running since I'm to busy hovering over the stop button and watching for a crash. I did get a shot of dry running it above the part though. https://youtu.be/v0v1FljkPKU This motion was not ideal but it was in the ballpark. The back and forth bit is bad. Sorted that, cut the part, and it was way off. Took pics and sent them along with the gcode back to the machine installers.  Over a 1/4" off. They had one of their applications engineers there 15 minutes later and they set the whole machine up again Now it's holding a few ten thousandths. Also learned about a neat trick. If you do cnc stuff with coolant get a tablet screen protector that's oleophobic.  I can see! Once I start running more than one part I'll grab a video of it doing something cool. Also make an effort post about it.
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Dec 11, 2020 00:15
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I love having bosses that are into motorsports. Any parts I wanted coated in some way can get done cheap if I wait for work parts that need the same treatment. Old mounts were a little rough after 15 years of neglect. Hell you can see the pitting on them. Now anodized.
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Dec 24, 2020 00:29
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Very cool stuff - can't wait to see the finished product - On the topic of Civics, I somehow broke the shifter mechanism on my '18 Si - the gates are all messed up and it seems to stick when I try and go for reverse. I brought it to the dealer but they claimed nothing was wrong - the dude tried to tell me thats just how honda transmissions feel :| I figured gently caress it, and got this entire Acuity ~Stage 3~ shifter assembly https://acuityinstruments.com/products/V2_10th_Gen_Civic_Stage_3_Shift_Kit I'll post the install/results as soon as it arrives.
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Dec 24, 2020 17:14
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Jesus christ that thing looks like it was sent back from the future. Let us know how it goes.
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Dec 24, 2020 17:23
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Cage is far enough along to start mocking up some of the rest of the car without being to in the way. Figured I'd start with putting the engine back in. Only there's a shelf in the way. I should have seen that coming but oh well. So i spent last night and today cleaning and rearranging half the garage.    There's still stuff in front of the lift but now it can all be moved quickly. Got a lot more useable space too. Need to order 2 moving dollies and an engine stand. Then I went through the box of bolts from stripping that accord.  That let me scrounge enough to find all the bolts I'll need to install the mounts and bolt the whole mess together. And I need to chase all the threads since this crap has been sitting for years. Works closed till Monday so I'll have to come up with a new plan for the rest of the long weekend. Maybe try to put a gas tank in and find where I get stuck there. That or get it on stands and start pulling the suspension off.
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Dec 24, 2020 20:01
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All the K-engine shifter turret things are these crazy nightmare linkages that look like RoboCop hosed a front end loader. I kinda love it.
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Dec 25, 2020 18:35
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Seat Safety Switch posted:All the K-engine shifter turret things are these crazy nightmare linkages that look like RoboCop hosed a front end loader. I kinda love it. Agreed. If someone asked me what that was for without context I'd guess a le mans prototype or wrc car. Was given a wink mirror for Christmas so I started there. Zip tied it up and threw the seat back in. It fits in the halo like I had a plan for it. Grabbed a chunk of box tube from the scrap pile with a 45 cut on the end and held it up. A plan was made.  Tried something new before I welded it. The nuts and bolts I used were zinc plated so I tossed them and the brackets in some vinegar. All be damned but it worked great. Took a while though. I used that time to start researching the da/crx/dc2 trailing arm thing. Good God there's a lot of opinions presented as fact on honda-tech. But I think I have a plan. Research doneish, I tacked up the brackets.  I'll mig it some more later but it was freezing cold and I didn't feel like pulling the brz outside for sparks so I love tapped it with the tig. As for the suspension, here's what I've come up with. DA suspension will mess everything up. Just in the rear it fucks up the track width. Front and rear will balance but might mess up the front geometry. Ideal would be crx si or 94+ integra rear, stock front or jdm sir front. Jdm sir front knuckles accept a larger wheel bearing vs usdm stuff, supposed to be identical otherwise. 4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:When I was looking for info on things recently I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9bmFNsziTU Good call on this because I'd have just plowed ahead without the warning. Now that I know there might be differences, the plan is to rip off what's on the car and compare that to what I have leftover from the wrecked civic. Removing the rear suspension means I need to get the car on stands, and that means I need a front cross memeber. IDK what the PO was thinking but there was some disconnected setup that just held the radius rods. No front and center jack point.  Moments before the trash can. Grabbed the old stock one, and it's rough.  So I start grinding, and 5 seconds in it's Vic's vapor rust. Grab the respirator and make a ghetto air filter. To cold to just open the door. Wear your ppe.    It's pretty trashed so I'll probably get an aftermarket one but it's good enough for at least being a jack point.   Everything but the passenger toe link bolt came out easy. Good  Bad  I got the bolt to break loose but it was stuck in the bushing. I sawzalled it in both sides but the captive nut was MIA when I was done. I'm guessing it was trashed beforehand. Im thinking static welded nut on both sides and adjustable toe links. I'll need tools from work to move forward tearing down the rear suspension.
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Dec 27, 2020 01:16
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Well, one tool to finish it. I've got torx bits on 3/8 drive there, I'll need those to separate the spindles. Doesn't mean I can't break everything else down.    Stock drums and ???? Trailing arms are now in pieces. Snapped 2 bolts and had to sawzall 4 when the bushing sleeve was one with the bolt. Only one hub left the rear race behind too. That's really weird. Eyeballing the heights says my set is DA but I can't really measure them till tomorrow.
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Dec 27, 2020 23:36
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I love this thread.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:21
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| # ? May 10, 2024 04:41 |
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Achtane posted:I love this thread.  I'm glad you're digging it. Got the torx bits home. The management would like these parts to know their request to remain in their current position was received and denied.  Little brap braappp  Much better  (Same side, one disc one drum) gently caress yes! Crx si brakes and trailing arms. Rock auto here I come. Now that I know which way I'm going in the back I can sort out the rest of it and get master cylinder/lines/bias valve and start laying that all out. Was looking at flaring tools, any recommendations? Autozone rental is out, I figure I'll probably be doing brake lines till I die and a nice one is cheaper than therapy so...
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Dec 29, 2020 01:11
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