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I wish I could find the pics from when we built my EK racecar, but we just straight cut the whole driver side floor out and replaced it with sheet steel. It was basically a flintstones car when I got the shell. Your sheet metal work is much nicer. STR posted:I think I remember the same, but the B16 is a bit harder to find in the US - it was only in the 99-00 Civic Si and the last year or two of the Del Sol Si, IIRC? The DC Integra GS-R was around a lot longer and sold very well; B18C5 parts are the easiest B series VTEC parts to find. I windowed a B17 block...and actually found a complete running motor. Maybe it's just where I live, but B16s are extremely easy to source. I wonder if it's because of the 15 year import laws for canada, a ton of people were bringing over B16 EFs and EGs back when they were first legal for import. B18Cs are much rarer, so much so that I'm going back to a B16 in my racecar because I cannot source a reasonably priced block locally. Yet I have multiple B16 bottom ends because they were 200 bucks.
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Aug 30, 2020 02:32
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Better yet, try to find an original 92-93 Integra GS-R. The B17 was USDM-only, 92-93 only. I haven't even seen a DA GS-R in a couple of years. I remember they made some really sexy noises right up until they blew up
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 22:37 |
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One thing I absolutely wish I knew when I was building a cage for the very first time: Use giant cardboard templates as a guide for stuff that is single plate, or close to it. As you do the bends you can compare it to the template. We kind of have a honda thing going between friends. The EK coupe is my car, and the del sol and CRX are friends cars.  
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Aug 30, 2020 14:53
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honda whisperer posted:OK, time for the list. I know I'm missing a lot but this is the start. Ill chuck it in the op too and update it there / as it goes in the thread. Brakes: There is an interesting option with the honed booster delete kit. Setup to use a honda 7/8 master and get rid of the overboosted feeling brakes. Killswitch: Skip the lovely plastic handle ones, get something like the longacre with the metal handle. They last forever. Window net: Make sure to go with something quick release. Either the hook latch style or the ones where you push forward and it pops down. A lot of older cars use a spring on rod setup that can be really hard to undo one handed, especially if if you can't see or are upside down. I have the hook latch and I can just flick it with my hand to drop the net. Belts: Skip SFI poo poo, go FIA for the 5 year expiry. My preference is schroth, mainly the enduro because of the adjustment being at the buckle. Very easy to belt yourself in. Bushings: On the rear, avoid poly for the trailing arm. Either stay stock rubber, or go to a PCI spherical. Poly will shift and bind and do weird poo poo mid corner. It works fine everywhere else as a budget option. If you're baller as hell do Kingpin Machine sphericals everywhere. Suspension: Skip all the cheap poo poo. The koni SPSS race valved shocks are quite good for entry level, and relatively affordable. Or if you don't care about having adjustment, the whitner racing shocks are some home brew goodness: http://www.whitener-racing.com/. Hubs: I'm not sure if you can still get them for EF, but I only buy OE honda rear hubs. They are expensive but outlast any other brand by *years*. Axles: Locally, we have had really good luck with repacking parts store axles with quality grease and venting the boots. My local track isn't a lot of sustained high G high speed corners though, so YMMV.
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Nov 8, 2020 23:23
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NitroSpazzz posted:Some good advice here. On the belts my preference is finding lap belts that you pull up or towards the buckle to tighten, way easier to get them just right and not run into the seat. Trying to make pull up belts work is the reason I'm running the OMP version of a schroth Enduro (which isn't as good). The main issue was the adjuster position was not adjustable relative to the mounting eyelet and they wound up just inside the seat. Could maybe have fixed it by raising the seat or relocating the mounting eyes, but it was easier to just get new belts. 4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:Killer post. I'm going to email Whitener Racing about a custom setup given how light my car is going to be. One other question, when you talk about the poly RTA bushings, I assume you mean energy suspension? I went with HardRace solid rubber and was wondering your thoughts. I did slightly clock them as I have the car very low. Yes, energy is the most common for poly. Hardrace is fine. I've done a few stints in a friend's CRX with stock rear rubber and the rear end feels predictable.
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Nov 9, 2020 13:50
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I would do what you have shown with the string. Are you gonna make some taco gussets for the x-bar? honda whisperer posted:It's mostly that if they're different it will bother me every time I look at it. When we caged my car the upper doorbar wasn't perfect side to side and the top bar across the windshield is at a visible angle compared to the roofline. I will always run a windshield banner.
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Nov 14, 2020 23:33
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For FWD Hondas my preference is DTC60 front, HP+ rear. They'll get enough temp in a warm-up lap but also last for 3 hours with no ducting. That said, I'm only running a b16 and nt01s so my speed is a bit lower than if you had a well pretty b18c or k series.
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Jan 9, 2021 16:59
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 22:37 |
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How long did your whiteners take to get? Just discovered my racecar has a mega-seized rear koni, and the CRX fronts I was using on my EK are too short to work with front roll center correction.
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Jul 13, 2021 02:54
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