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I joined these dumb forums years ago after stumbling across AI. I feel after all the enjoyment I've gotten from you I should give back and let you laugh at my suffering. Let me present, the civic of the lake. This poor car was not actually pulled from a lake. It was sitting behind a friends barn for almost a decade. Rattle can black when I bought it, and surprisingly rust free, it has not aged well. When ~these trying times~ started I decided building a project car was better than watching the news 24/7 so it got towed home.  This looks pretty bad... but how bad. Time for a wash.     Hey thats not so bad. Oh. Oh no.  There should be a test to buy spray paint. Home now, for god knows how long.  Mmmmm smells like used mice  So, I've been working on this for a bit. There are posts to come. But before I get there, a brief rundown. Why? I already had it, I recently went from apartment to place I could work on it, and I needed something to distract me. The plan? It will be a track day / HPDE / get a comp licence car. NASA has a new enduro class that seems to be designed to get people from track days into road racing. If it survives all that, Honda Challenge. I'll build it to Honda Challenge rules for the cage and cheap stuff. If it goes Honda Challenge I can always update the engine/transmission last. Coming soon, RUST! EDIT: The list Stuff I have to do Bold is new Brakes - -build brake cooling ducts -get parker store to make braided lines -rebuild calipers i bought Fuel -Mount tank -Make access panel so I don't have to drop the tank to get at the pump -Pick and mount fuel filter -Run fuel send and return -Roll over valve sort fuel pump Safety -Pick and mount kill switch -Pick and mount fire suppression -Pick and mount window net -Pick and install belts -Add passenger seat for instructor (and probably window net too) -tow hooks Suspension mount new rear sway bar -alignment and corner balance Body -Mount everything and make it suck less -Paint -Get windshield installed -Stickers! Engine/Drivetrain -Timing belt, water pump, tensioner -get an obd1 dizzy -mount ecu -design wiring -mil connector at firewall? -solid state setup? -datalogging/dash? -axles -hondata -dyno tune -header/exhaust -intake -ducting the radiator I bought -oil cooler Misc -Defroster something. Rain sucks. Blind in the rain suck harder. -Cool suit / air something? honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 03:07 on May 13, 2021 |
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Aug 22, 2020 03:43
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sharkytm posted:I've got a bunch of Honda parts from my old EJ1. PM me if you need stuff. Will do, thanks! Also glad to see there's old honda love. So first things first. Strip this thing down to the metal.   When we pushed this onto the trailer it dropped a ton of rust. I figured it was shot from that alone.  But it was just the rear bumper being made of lightened ohio steel. Dry ice owns sound deadning.  I can see whats happening!     Honestly at this point its a lot better than I was expecting. Almost all the rust is in the drivers side floor pan, a touch where the roof meats the drivers side a-pillar, and a touch on the drivers side quarter panel where it meets the bumper. Definitely salvageable. Oh yeah its before the recall, these jack stands are gone soon. To be replaced with more to be recalled stands.
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Aug 23, 2020 04:33
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I've got a set. At least the ones that you put under the tires. Theres also a set I can get for the lift that levers the pads off the ground and lets you roll lift and car around. Haven't got those yet.
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Aug 23, 2020 13:40
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So, when I left off the civic was on stands, and the DD was on a lift. With most of weight stripped off the civic, it was time to fix this. Before  After  I did not take any in process pics. All I can say is one, it sucked a lot, and two give me a lever long enough and I will move the world. I plan on having the nifty lift casters before its time to move it back. Either way worth the effort, 4 post is the way to go for body repair and cage fab. Also i leave the BRZ outside and now I have a car sized space to do fab stuff. Speaking of fab stuff, say hello to my little friend.  I highly recommend spot weld drills if you do uni-body sheet metal work.    There are a few other spots, but this is by far the worst of it.         So, that was the first rust patch I did on this car. There are a LOT more. And I've got pics of all of them. I'm game for the whole car blow by blow but imgur sucks now I guess and I have to scroll forever to make any of it happen in order. Let me know if you want to watch me slowly get better at sheet metal one patch at a time. Or i can just dump a bunch of after pics and we can skip right to the cage. Fast forward or one patch at a time? Somewhere in the middle of this, one nerds from GOKU, a goon planetside 2 outfit made this happen.  
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Aug 25, 2020 02:21
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More rust! Not a lot more rust, but damnit if I'm going to race a beer can it might as well not be a rusty beer can.         It would have been cool to do as one patch instead of 3 but I'm not that good or cool.    I could grind all this down more but I'm mostly going for stronger floor pan. Thinning out the original metal for a seamless finish seems like a waste. Looking back through the pics it looks so straight forward. If I remember right this was like 3 nights of work. I wish I had an English wheel too, but I don't do enough sheet metal to justify it.
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Aug 26, 2020 02:27
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Hmotors online still has the obd0 b16a1 in stock and surprisingly not that expensive. At least for a desirable Honda engine. Anything obd1 on starts getting pricy though.
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Aug 26, 2020 12:56
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Glad to see all the Civic love in here. Bough a 90 Si of my parents as a first car in the early 2000s. I don't think I've ever been right since.    I was sharing some of this on a discord and was asked for the whole process a while back so to close out the rust repair, every step for one patch.            AHAHAHAHHA gently caress YOU OHIO I HAVE A WELDER YOU CAN PRY THIS CAR FROM MY COLD DEAD HANDS! So, with (most of) the rust sorted, this should get more fun. First an order to JEGS.     
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Aug 27, 2020 02:21
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sharkytm posted:The only video of my EJ1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WxZO7irJ-8 Hell yeah. Built bottom end or stock internals? I'm all for people posting about their Hondas in here.
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Aug 27, 2020 18:40
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sharkytm posted:Stock D16Z6 with a big T3 .60/.63 from a 300ZX. I managed to keep the front bumper intact too, no massive intercooler in your face. It was a fun build, but never really went anywhere. I got it tuned and then real life took over and I eventually sold it for $500. I still have an AL radiator, moates romulator, chipped p72, and the LC1. Ah the stock twin cam swap killer. Let me know what you want for the p72 and the romulator. I'll definitely be wiring mine up for OBD1 from the start. I've got the stock harness but I don't want to chase 30 year old harness gremlins forever.
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Aug 28, 2020 01:31
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sharkytm posted:Yeah, it was a fun car for sure. There's a pretty lengthy thread in the archives. 450cc DSM blue tops, tuned in CROME. Sent! I remember crome. It was always so fiddly to get working right.
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Aug 28, 2020 01:53
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Getting pretty close to present day. So, any good NASA car will need a cage. I'm lucky to have a friend with a JD Squared bender and tubing notcher. So I borrowed them. There were a couple things to sort out first though.  The last person who borrowed it had used some brake clean and wiped the numbers on the degree wheel.  So I traced out the shape, measured it, and modeled it in fusion 360.  And then I threw it into the CNC machine at work.  I love my job. They're cool with us using the stuff in the shop provided we punch out first.   Can't wipe off engraved numbers! Then I made some brackets to level the bender. It was initially setup on an engine stand instead of a proper pedestal and has lived there ever since. Handy to move but a pain to work with.    That sorted, I needed a guide to figure out how much tubing a given bend would take up. Back in the day we'd mark up a tube with a sharpie as a template but it was always temporary. Why not do the same trick twice?  
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Aug 28, 2020 03:25
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Crustashio posted:I wish I could find the pics from when we built my EK racecar, but we just straight cut the whole driver side floor out and replaced it with sheet steel. It was basically a flintstones car when I got the shell. Your sheet metal work is much nicer. I wish we didn't have to wait 25 years for imports. $200 blocks sounds awesome. If you go import engines here the price difference from b16 to b18 is usually worth going for the b18. At least for vtec engines. LS motors are way cheaper. I'll take race car pics from today even if the build pics are missing. So, bender sorted, I started in on the base plates. Plan is to cut through the floor and drop the cage down to weld the top.     IDK if i didnt take enough pics or imgur sucks but you get the idea. Base plates, yay. Bender time.    Man it looks like I know wtf im doing.  Nope lol, main hoop took two tries. First time I did the math on a piece of paper and thought I had it. I did not. So I laid out the whole thing on the floor of my garage. Started with the extremes of the car, offset it an inch, and laid out the main hoop to match. Then i bent to fit the marks on my floor. This worked a lot better, but still not perfect. But I decided it was good enough.  Holes in the floor work!     I wish I had made the lower bends a littler higher. Oh well, close enough. Meet the notch master.     
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Aug 30, 2020 04:29
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Is that a legend front end on it?
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Aug 30, 2020 19:45
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STR posted:Canada got the Acura EL, which a badge-engineered version of the Civic (kinda like the CL was essentially an Accord). Looks like the front clip from one of those? It's definitely different and I kinda like it. JudgeJoeBrown posted:Looking good Honda but on the bad part of these posts it's making me get the Honda itch again. Thanks. One of us one of us!  Sharkytm you're my hero.
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Sep 2, 2020 00:38
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Main hoop "in", some extra bars holding it in place.  Time for the halo next. But there's more rust. The halo will possibly block the rust so I decided to tackle that first.    Not perfect but the windshield will cover it up and gently caress it, ill probably wreck this at some point. Its not a restoration. This time I start with the floor layout and bend the halo to fit.   Then I make some bars for the a pillars.  I've finally caught up with the pictures I uploaded when I made the first post. Imgur is not what it was, and I'm glad I don't have to wade through their site anymore and can just phone post the rest of this. Should be less image dumps and more regular "heres what I did today" with interesting bits and bitching.
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Sep 3, 2020 04:10
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After getting the second a pillar close I realized something was off. It was way closer on the passenger side than the driver's. I realized the whole thing was shifted towards the passenger side and had one leg slightly longer than the other. Trimmed it and centered it and tacked the whole thing again.  Then I made some gussets. I didn't want to terminate the a pillar bars in the middle of the bend, but just going to one side would make it weaker too.  Cool trick for small bits, wrap it in paper and rub a pencil on it. Then cut that out and put it on the next tube backwards.     That's sorted. Now having shifted the halo the tubes going from the main hoop to the mounts in the back were off.  So I cut everything behind the main hoop out and redid it.  Much better. I was able to just trim everything but the tube going between the rear shock towers. So I cut a new piece for that and tacked it in.  Plus dash bar.  That's most of the cage mocked up. Door bars need added and a lot of welding needs done. Door bars will be saved for later since they'll make accessing the car a pain. I crawled in and welded everything that was easy to reach except where the halo meets the main hoop. Then I cut all the tacks on the base plates and separated the front and back half of the cage.  And pulled the whole mess out of the car.  This weekend I'll try to weld everything up and get it back in the car. God willing I put the holes in the floor in the right places and when it's joined I can drop it down and finish the welds where the halo hits the main hoop on top. If not I'll have to take a hole saw to the roof for access. I've never tried this way before but if it works it will be awesome. I imagine there are some lessons I'm about to learn for next time though. This catches everything up to the present day.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:55
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Glad you like it. Cool one from work. My foreman drove this in today.  It's a crowley his dad built years ago and just gave to him. 25 hp. He's thinking about supercharging it up to about 50hp. Also has already installed a stock Miata sway bar for the first upgrade. He's also got a Miata and EF civic both in track day spec. I'll grab pics of them when the get driven in. Owner of the shop has a newer GTR, 400whp evo 8, a gsr swapped DA, and a 480whp ek hatch. The hondas are also track cars. Asking for time off to go to the track will not be an issue. Also we've got a guy with a bone stock, clean as a whistle 300zx TT.
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Sep 4, 2020 23:12
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I've got no idea. Haven't been following new honda stuff for a while. Welding outside is done. That was so much nicer than laying on my back upside down.  Going to see if my neighbors free to help me get it back in the car. Edit: he was and we did. Tacked back in and I'm done for the day.  Halo got maybe a 1/4" wider from the welding. I could push it back by hand but the ratchet straps held it while I tacked it in. The back half plunked onto the pads close enough I'll just weld it as is. Tomorrow, if I'm not destroyed from all this, I'll weld everything I can reach and then try to drop it through the floor. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Sep 5, 2020 |
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Sep 5, 2020 19:20
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I have an 3rd gen Civic I need to repair rust holes in, but my heart belongs to the EF, it's just the right mix of soft-edged angles and still has the full width rear plastics of the 3rd gen. Thanks! 3rd gen civics are awesome too, they're light as hell and even rarer. I do agree on the styling though. You know what's better than one project? 2 projects!  Recently totalled, I got this to pull the engine from. My neighbor is selling me a blown up accord of the same generation for cheap. So it's k swap time. I'm more of a b/d series person. Actually I've never even pulled a k motor before so this should be interesting. Cage build is on hold so I can get the brz back in the garage asap. Stock to stock so shouldn't take to long.
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Sep 7, 2020 20:28
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Not sure. 05 accord donor to 07 accord that jumped timing. Both 4 cylinders.
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Sep 7, 2020 23:22
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What genius decided that the chassis harness should be connected to the radiator fans not just at the plug but with a bunch of little clips too. No don't just remove a couple plugs and pull the rad and fans as an assembly. You've got to separate them in the engine bay and then release a bunch of fiddly push tabs first.   Also they've made the spring clips for the trans cooler so wide normal pliers can only hit 2 of the 3 tabs unless you come at them parallel to the hose. That was cool too. Got most of the wiring and fluid lines disconnected on the driver's side. Battery, air box, radiator and fans are out. Looks like once everything is disconnected the engine might actually pull straight up. Maybe a little forward for the header but seems like it will clear the frame just fine.
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Sep 7, 2020 23:35
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It really sucked pulling the 6-speed out of the 04 TSX so I hope the engine pull is at least easier. It looks like pulling the transmission in place would be hell but for a whole drivetrain not so bad. Probably not worth doing my the whole thing for a clutch or whatnot but I haven't found any signs the whole mess is bigger than the hole it comes out of. Olympic Mathlete posted:A friend of mine also has a 3rd gen and is doing what you're doing, swapping in a newer, bigger engine. She's got a b18 and is putting ITBs on it. I may have been unclear, the race cars getting an obd0 b16. Buckets of fun but basically stock SiR setup. The accord is just a stock to stock swap to make a beater for winter driving. Having a k24 block laying around might give me ideas later though. B18 3rd gen sounds loving rowdy.
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Sep 8, 2020 00:40
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Sorry to disappoint. I've got a b16 from my previous EF with all the accessories to make it work already. The good news is while the current plan is to make a safe track car for minimum price, I promise that if you give me time poo poo will get weird.
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Sep 8, 2020 03:04
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Cool. I always wanted a crx but they're impossible to find now. What's the plan for it? Man the flash makes that look even uglier than it is. Fuel lines, wiring, p/s, and all the coolant lines are disconnected. A/C compressor is unbolted and stuffed in a corner. Axels came out surprisingly easily. They're shot. Hope the ones in the other car are in better shape. I've got to figure out where I'm disconnecting the exhaust. The spring bolts that connect the header to the rest would be ideal but they look pretty rough. Flex pipe is smoked too so I might just take the sawzall to it. If that's not a nightmare I'll try and hook the engine crane to it tomorrow.
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Sep 9, 2020 01:34
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Thats super clean and should be a blast. Insanely good deal too. I would love it if this thread turned into the track honda zone so feel free to throw updates in here.
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Sep 9, 2020 12:35
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Got the engine out. Imgur upload is broken atm so no pics. It wasn't to bad. No finding the magic angle to sneak it out. Just up, forward, and up some more. I only missed one spot before I tried to pull it. Some quarter assed la croix of a motor mount on the driver's side. More of a bracket really. Transmission to subframe under the transmission mount. IDK wtf that was supposed to do Spring bolts on the header went 1 for 2. I'll try heat and vise grips tomorrow.
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Sep 10, 2020 01:32
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   I guess imgurs back. It feels like all those ocean documentaries where some poor creature gets stripped to the bone on time lapse. More than anything else I want the bolts and fasteners. Life caused me to lose my bins of random nuts and bolts and that has been a huge pain in the rear end. I'll also stash the high cost small items I might need as spares later. Fuel pump, electronics, window motors, etc.
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Sep 11, 2020 01:31
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I think it scraped a fence? All passenger side curtains went off, right front broke the lca and tie rod, and all the bodywork on that side got beat up pretty badly too.
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Sep 11, 2020 17:23
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glyph posted:HOLYFUCKINGSHIT. Lol only on the back doors! I could not find one for the front and cut it.
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Sep 11, 2020 18:32
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And I found the plug for one driver's door. Already cut it but drat it's kinda buried. At least I know where it is now but why not run the plug to the door. Trying to get the dash out now and god forbid anyone could see a screw. Just hide them a little and everyone's happy.  Ugh this is going to suck. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Sep 12, 2020 |
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Sep 12, 2020 00:00
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 That magnetic tray is just dash bolts. It's not even loose. Wiggling a corner maybe goes 6" before it's clearly still bolted in. This sucks so hard I'm looking forward to removing 15 year old honda suspension since it will be so much more straight forward and easy. 
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Sep 12, 2020 01:45
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 I found the driver's door plugs too. They're buried into the fuse box. Both sides not bad if you know where you're going. If the car the engine is going into ever needs the dash removed I'm just pushing it off a cliff. Edit: Starts flying apart without the dash.  That's where I'm quitting tonight. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Sep 15, 2020 |
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Sep 15, 2020 00:32
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Got the whole front subframe out, the rear interior out, the exhaust off, and cleaned up a lot of the mess all these parts are making. I can't wait to be done with this thing. Way to good of a deal to pass up and I'll be glad for a squishy beater this winter but it really lacks the fun of a labor of love. Also I really hope car engineers have an afterlife where they spend their days working on the cars they designed. Mitsubishi engineers are clearly in hell. Whoever designed this car is probably in purgatory.  Subframe!  The amount of interior that had to come out to reach the top of the rear shocks is criminal. It's in front of the bulkhead for the trunk area and behind the trim around the back seat. The cover over the trunk under the rear glass obscured the rear bolt on both sides. If I was coming at this as a "do shocks asap" it was accessable enough with a gear wrench but I'm used to there being a plastic hatch in the trunk that gives full access for no effort.  Rear headliner brought to you by hell raiser. It took me way to long to figure out those were thumb tacks. Edit: also I can't tell you how much I miss having a 2 post lift. I know this car was designed to have the whole front or rear installed as an assembly. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 01:16
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IDK what it is about titles that it's always a nightmare. But I finally got it for the donor car. Goodbye forever. On to getting the other accord in and swapped so I can go back to the civic.
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Oct 3, 2020 14:40
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GOD IS BED posted:I'm so glad I didn't find this thread until after I sold my EF, or I might have kept it. Brilliant cars, I was slowly turning mine into a race car as well (also planned for a B16) but found my Neon already ready to race. Ready to race is hard to beat. Blown engine is out. Got a few things to do to the running engine. Mainly timing chain and tensioner since it's a known failure point and a pain in the rear end in the car.  Also, again, gently caress some of the design choices on this thing. There are little hooks on the top of the ac compressor. It makes it really easy to install, holds everything in place while you bolt it together. It also means that if the 4" long and exposed to the elements bolts get so much corrosion on them that they don't want to come out, the compressor is stuck to the engine. Also the bottom two are pointed straight at the subframe with just enough clearance to disengage but not remove. Definitely not enough room to get in there with a pry bar or anything like it. Also the fuse box in the engine bay is right over the transmission and has about 1" of slack to move around. All fine if you're disconnecting the ac and dropping the assembly with subframe. Frustrating with an engine crane.
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Oct 10, 2020 22:15
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Spent some more time on the accord.  New oem honda chain and tensioner with aftermarket guides. That was downright easy when not in the car.  All buttoned up. Not shown, installing the crank pulley. Spec is 49nm + 90 degrees. I have no idea what that works out to in normal torque specs but it's a lot. Cage tube makes for an excellent cheater bar. Also my breaker bar is bent now. Standing there, proud of my accomplishments for the day, I saw this.  Then I saw this  gently caress! I thought there might be some issue donating an 05 engine to an 07 chassis but I was hoping there wouldn't be. Both are k24 with the RAA head. All Ive found after looking more closely is just the drive by wire. I'm hoping that if I move the throttle body and wiring harness over I'll be good. So odds are I'll get everything together, then have to swap the transmission or something once it's in the car. Research is a nightmare since honda forums are bad. Signal to noise is just awful. Off to order a throttle body gasket now.
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Oct 11, 2020 21:57
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And now it's the whole intake manifold going over. Per honda part numbers same head, same exhaust, lots of matching parts in the transmission, same injectors etc. This will be interesting.
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Oct 11, 2020 22:16
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Suburban Dad posted:49 Nm is like 36 foot-lbs. Surprised you didn't break the bolt off. But it's that plus 90 degrees of rotation. So snug, then a full quarter turn. I had to put a knee on the block to keep it on the ground.
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Oct 11, 2020 23:20
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I haven't been impressed with any chase bays stuff yet. Also solo gas tank on the ground sucks. Those trailing arm bushings are a pain too. Looking good so far though. I've got a set of DA arms and discs for my project too. Got the intake manifold off the running engine along with the whole engine harness. Not sure yet how I'm going to attack the updated one. It's got some massive plastic tank under it blocking all the bolts on the bottom. I've got a new water pump on the way so I'll pull that and the massive bracket holding it on and hope I can sneak a gear wrench in there. New parts, mainly the intake gasket get here Friday so if I can get it all sorted tomorrow I'll shoot for installing this mess this weekend. 
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Oct 15, 2020 02:05
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Damnit I are good at reading. Thanks for the heads up even if I glazed over it. I went ahead and split the intake in half and it got so much easier to manage. Should have everything buttoned up tonight so I can try to install it after work tomorrow. Going to leave the resonator in and the whole mess as stock as possible. Edit: what's the upshot on the tsx manifold? K-series stuff is all pretty new to me. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 19:49
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