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Excited about this build thread, thanks for sharing. I have a 89 CRX HF I'm in the process of working on, but I just had a kid so finding free time to work on the car is difficult. Edit: I'm an idiot who can't read. That's rad you already have an engine for it, should be an easy swap, looking forward to more photos and updates. 4/20 NEVER FORGET fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Sep 8, 2020 |
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Sep 8, 2020 04:23
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 19:30 |
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honda whisperer posted:Cool. I always wanted a crx but they're impossible to find now. What's the plan for it? I've always wanted to build a dedicated track day car so I searched for a while to find a 88 or 89 HF. 1834 lbs from the factory! It's not in the best shape but it's mostly straight and rust free. Only downside is the aftermarket sunroof I'll need to delete, and the paint is tired. Right now I'm replacing the gas tank, fuel pump, and doing the rear disc swap while the tank is out. I picked up a 96-97 spec B18C ITR full changeover from HMO to swap into it along with all of the associated parts and bolt ons, just need to find the time to replace all of the seals on the engine and get it swapped. You can see the 88 base model parts car I have in the background. I scored the best deal ever on craigslist: 3 CRXs for $750. Had to tow two of them home, but it was a great deal. Got one plated and smogged, sold it to a friend for $500. (gotta pay it forward)   Check out the  paint job on the 91 base model I sold:
4/20 NEVER FORGET fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Sep 9, 2020 |
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Sep 9, 2020 05:51
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honda whisperer posted:This sucks so hard I'm looking forward to removing 15 year old honda suspension since it will be so much more straight forward and easy. I feel this in my soul. Don’t know why but I love doing the fronts on any Honda with the double-wishbone front suspensions. Not sure why either, it’s just nice to work on. I’ve never had pull a dash before. That looks absolutely terrible.
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Sep 13, 2020 05:36
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I made a little bit of progress on the CRX. A couple weeks ago I got tired of waiting for my buddy to come help me and installed my new gas tank and Walbro 255 fuel pump. It was a bitch by myself, positioning the tank and twisting all of the hoses to the correct location was a PITA. Last Friday I had some free time and had delusions I would get the rear disc swap completed, throw the front struts in, throw the new driver's seat in, change the oil and start the car. The rear disc swap came from a DA integra and the rear trailing arm bushings were shot. I bought some Hard Race solid rubber bushings to install into the rear arms. The internet makes it sound like it's a piece of cake, well, it's not. No amount of hammering would get them to go in. I finally had to take a pair of c-clamps and clamp the bushing down, hit it on opposite sides a couple of times, tighten the clamps, hit, tighten, hit until the bushings slowly went into position.  Figuring out how to do that and how to do it without waking up our baby took me way too much time so I only got one of the rear arms in and fully assembled.  Used F&F version 1 or whatever (non-adjustable dampening, got them for $200 for a temporary setup), Voodoo 13 LCAs, Skunk2 camber adjusters. I bought Chase Bays steel-braided lines but they didn't fit (way too long). Also installed new e-brake cables. (easy to do when the tank is out) Pretty funny that the front has more fender gap on the ground then the rear does fully decompressed.  
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Oct 12, 2020 07:09
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honda whisperer posted:Those trailing arm bushings are a pain too. Looking good so far though. I've got a set of DA arms and discs for my project too. When I was looking for info on things recently I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9bmFNsziTU Looks like the DA arms widen the rear track by about an inch. Fine for a drag or street car, but has implications on a track day car. Not sure if you knew that, but figured id let you know. If I had it to do over again, I'd do the EK rear arms with DC rear hubs like he shows in the video. I've already gone to the trouble of installing the DA arms with new bushings into the car so I'll just deal with it until it becomes a problem I need to solve. Congrats on getting the swap running! A swap like that with PS/AC etc is a big job. No pics, but for progress I put in the DA trailing arm on the other side earlier this week, threw in the front coilovers, changed the oil and started the car. (on the stock engine) I went to take it for a drive, apparently I didn't bleed the brakes enough so I had to use the e-brake to stop the car a couple of times. I'll get to that hopefully later this week. This car has 350k miles on it, the head sounds like a sewing machine and the main input shaft bearing sounds TERRIBLE. Thankfully I don't have to drive it far before I do the swap.
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Oct 18, 2020 22:15
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Looking good!
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Oct 23, 2020 22:40
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I spent most of last Wednesday putting in the Skunk2 camber arms front and rear and lowering the car to what I feel is a good ride height. Also fitted my 5zigen wheels onto it and took it for a spin. It’s slow as hell on the stock HF engine but still enjoyable as it brings back a lot of good memories of my previous CRX. Next time I find time to work on it, I’m going to try and get the engine onto an engine stand so I can start working on replacing all of the seals. 
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Nov 1, 2020 09:10
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honda whisperer posted:Looks great. All the bolts come out or was it time for the sawzall? I only had one stuck bolt that the electric impact couldn't break. Thankfully I have a parts car, a totaled '88 CRX to steal bolts from. As for the brake lines, the DA arms I purchased still had the brake lines attached so I used those. Unfortunately when I went to bleed the fronts, the front passenger corner bleeder stripped, even using a line wrench. One of my next projects is to take the front knuckles off of the 88 base model, install new bearings/hubs/ball joints so I have them ready when I do the swap on the HF. I'm going to be using a fast brakes kit to convert to 11" front rotors with Integra front calipers, but I can't install them until I'm ready to do the motor swap since the axle splines are different between the HF and base model CRXs. I'm having fun driving the CRX as is right now. I still need to get a new windshield, new paint, then I'll be starting the swap.
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Nov 6, 2020 19:31
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Crustashio posted:Brakes: There is an interesting option with the honed booster delete kit. Setup to use a honda 7/8 master and get rid of the overboosted feeling brakes. Killer post. I'm going to email Whitener Racing about a custom setup given how light my car is going to be. One other question, when you talk about the poly RTA bushings, I assume you mean energy suspension? I went with HardRace solid rubber and was wondering your thoughts. I did slightly clock them as I have the car very low.
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Nov 9, 2020 06:10
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Yall see this crazy poo poo https://www.instagram.com/p/CHYWO3mHnXg/?igshid=8xsnky4lu68s
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Nov 9, 2020 23:09
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Hilarious. I read your last post and started to write a response with "why didn't you do the fast brakes kit with the 11" Corrado rotors?" It's about as cheap as you can get a BBK kit, and is what I have for my CRX once I get time to install it. Makes finding spare parts super easy too. IIRC, the only different front knuckles are the HF (smaller than DX/Si) and the EX (bigger) What suspension you going with? I love this thread, thank you for making it as it gives me motivation to get out there and get to work. I'll try and make an effort post in the next few days with where I've got so far, which isn't that far. Babies, yo. Your image of the t-boned EF hatch has me re-thinking my choice not to install a cage in my CRX. I should probably look into getting one. Here's the shitbox as it currently sits: 
4/20 NEVER FORGET fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Jan 20, 2021 |
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Jan 20, 2021 06:33
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honda whisperer posted:Edit: suspension I'm debating the whitener shocks vs konis still. Whitener is $1350 needs springs. Konis are $1000 for the race valved, I have ground controls, still need springs. So difference of about $350. I went with Whitener shocks, they're actually being shipped to me right now. Funny thing is I asked David three separate times where I should buy springs from and he never gave me an answer. He helped me chose an initial setup and spring ratio, but wouldn't tell me where to get them. Anyone here ever use Whitener shocks? Where did you buy springs? Overall the process of working with David to pick shocks specifically for what I'm trying to do was really good. He gave me pointers for setting up the car, which is something I needed help with. He wants me to run 10" wide wheels in the front and 8" wheels in the back. Aside from shopping for wheels, I'm also shopping for fenders so I can run that wide of tire. I could probably pull them a bit, but I may as well just cut them and put on a wide fender.
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Jan 21, 2021 00:42
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Looking good man. I've been quiet but I'm still lurking this thread. Haven't made much progress on my car, but I did finally get my B18C onto a stand and started replacing the oil pump/water pump/timing belt. Waiting on some o-rings right now.
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Jul 12, 2021 22:55
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honda whisperer posted:March 11 I emailed saying I had the funds and wanted a set. I had a very similar experience, mine took a little over 8-weeks. He ended up knocking $100 off the price of the shocks because I went with a set of rebuilds as opposed to new stuff.
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Jul 13, 2021 22:22
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honda whisperer posted:Take pics and just post. I needed that inspiration. I'll try and make a point to. I did get a new windshield installed recently, here's a shot of me driving it back from the shop.  And the motor on the stand. I've owned it for nearly a year with all of the tools to get it onto the stand, but couldnt line up a time for my buddy to come help me get everything lined up. We finally got it onto the stand last week. I've already pulled most of the stuff off the side of the engine to do the oil pump/water pump/timing belt.  Lastly, I ended up scoring another type-R full changeover (2000 spec B18C) from a buddy who went to a K motor. Got everything for $2000, so I couldn't say no. I didn't need another type R motor, but now I have two type R motors. There are worse problems to have.
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Jul 14, 2021 03:33
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I made a little bit of progress on my motor over vacation. My current goal is to replace all of the critical rubber seals before putting the engine in the car. I started with the cam seals which went really smoothly. The engine is a 1996 B18C ITR motor I picked up from HMO before prices went insane. HMO said the motor had 62k miles but the inside of the engine is spotless.  Along with the timing belt, water pump and idler pulley, I replaced the oil pump since the first gen ITR motors had an older style oil pump. This area around the crank was also spotless.  Got it all put back together and it was looking really nice. I installed some Skunk2 cam gears and a race ATI super damper as well.  When I was doing the final torque on the crank pulley, my dumb rear end forgot to stick something in the flywheel to stop the crank from moving and was relying on the cam gear tool to hold the cam gears that would hold the belt in place. Well, around 100 ft/lb I felt some tension release. I had pulled the tensioner back accidentally. Doh. Unfortunately I don't own the tool to remove the ATI damper.... so I had to cut a small hole in the timing belt cover to get a screw driver in there and reset the tensioner.  Then I made another mistake, I went to check the torque on the cam gears and ended up over-torquing and spinning one of the helicoils out of the gear. Gotta break a few eggs I guess.  So I had to again release the tensioner and re-install the stock cam gears. They cleaned up nice with a wire wheel.  I got stopped by a stubborn flywheel bolt that took a day of soaking in PB blaster before I could get it broke loose. The flywheel is out now, the next step is to get it re-surfaced and install the new rear main seal I have. The pilot bearing in the stock flywheel spins perfectly still so I'm not planning on replacing it. Cool update about the 3d printer! I wish I had the time to play with one, my wife would probably kill me if I picked up another hobby right now though.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:58
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One other cool thing I found while working on this 1996 motor: While I was cleaning the carbon from the exhaust ports I noticed the head has a small hand-written star cast into the head. I've posted the pic in a couple of groups on facebook but no factual answers yet on what it means. These stars appeared on some other motors as well, and always look a little different. Kinda cool.
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Aug 16, 2021 23:03
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Holy crap, $250 for the cat! I have three of them laying around in the garage. I know what I'm doing this weekend. I put my 88 CRX parts car on jack stands in preparation for tearing it down. I need ALL of the fasteners, the cross member, front hubs, wiring. Things like the straight hood and core support will get saved, while pretty much everything else is going in the trash. Anything other tips on what is worth good money at the scrap yard?
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Sep 6, 2021 03:27
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 19:30 |
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honda whisperer posted:Thanks! I likely have them. I'll take a look later this week and get back to you.
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Sep 7, 2021 00:07
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