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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yes, that inline flaring tool is the way to go. The only downside with that one is it's just a single size - fine if all you need to flare is 3/16 but if you need to do anything else you'll want to pick up a more complete set.

That and some copper brake line made redoing the axle brake lines on my truck a goddamn breeze. It really is easy to work with, you won't need any sort of bending tools unless you're trying to do too sharp of a bend.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





honda whisperer posted:


Flares like a dream though.

It really does. I'll never use anything else given the choice.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I *think* it's okay for fuel too but for that I'm sold on pushlok hose / AN fittings. I redid most of my C10's fuel system with that and it's the first time I've ever put together a new fuel system and had absolutely zero drips of any kind on the first try. Yes, you could use a combination of hardline and AN hose but IMO it's less work to just P-clip the hose the whole way instead of converting from hose to hardline and back again.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BlackMK4 posted:

8th Gen Si is a great car, buy one

Agreed. My only reservation at this point would be finding one that hasn't been abused by a chucklefuck that doesn't know what they're doing.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If you want to make future services easier, use a Lubelocker instead of RTV

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I have them exclusively on stamped steel covers right now. No problems whatsoever.

They are semi reusable too. LubeLocker doesn't guarantee it but so far I haven't had one leak yet after multiple reuses.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





That is some absolutely pro-tier wrenching music, too.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Why not replace the whole trailing arm?

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, just replace the whole arm.



It's quite possible that the original arm wasn't meant to have a serviceable bushing, and that bushing looks like it would be a giant pain to deal with anyway. Then consider that most auto parts get installed by shops, and if you're paying for labor there's no way a $40-70 arm comes out more expensive than just the labor alone to get that bushing out.

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