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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Former owner of a DA, EF, and EG here. Miss the hell out of all of them.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Goddamnit now I'm looking at Craigslist and FB Marketplace for EFs... and a D16Z6... followed by a B18C1.. then probably followed by a B20Z bottom end and the head from the B18. They're light enough that the D16 still makes them scoot decently.

EFs are so drat hard to find today that I do a double take anytime I see one on the road... and that's with me living in the land of no rust. :sigh: I don't even see them in junkyards much.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I think I remember the same, but the B16 is a bit harder to find in the US - it was only in the 99-00 Civic Si and the last year or two of the Del Sol Si, IIRC? The DC Integra GS-R was around a lot longer and sold very well; B18C5 parts are the easiest B series VTEC parts to find.

But while we're talking unicorns... try to find a running B17. :v: Better yet, try to find an original 92-93 Integra GS-R. The B17 was USDM-only, 92-93 only. I haven't even seen a DA GS-R in a couple of years. I remember they made some really sexy noises right up until they blew up

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Should have clarified, I was speaking more in terms of USDM stuff. The B16 was mostly used in JDM cars. They're plentiful with importers.

I had a brain fart and was just thinking of being able to find stuff in junkyards with that brain dump. You can tell how long it's been since I played with Legos: Honda Edition :saddowns:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Canada got the Acura EL, which a badge-engineered version of the Civic (kinda like the CL was essentially an Accord). Looks like the front clip from one of those?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Dem solid amber corners on EG's are just :fap: (I had them on mine too)

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

So wait, why was this Accord totaled? It looks pretty decent aside from the missing bumper. Or have they depreciated so far that a new bumper cover is a total?

e: oh wait, I just saw the popped side curtain airbags. t-bone?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Ah okay, I see the hosed up bodywork now. I thought it was reflections. Broken LCA wasn't obvious until I looked at the disassembled pic after reading this - I assumed the knuckle was disconnected from stuff.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

honda whisperer posted:

Torn cv boot, rack boot, and leaking oil filter housing gasket were noted for future repairs. Oil pan rust is not quite but near critical. Valve covers leaking. Timing belt is near 10 years old. Will probably hit the boots and gasket soon ish. The rest is probably an engine out and overhaul or keep sending till something catastrophic fails. Knowing the owner that will either be a just maintenance or built and big power.

My old roommate never once did the timing belt on his same-generation WRX (2003 IIRC). Shifter bushings had also checked out, as well as the AC compressor, 3 window regulators.... When the serpentine belt let go, it looked like a pile of shoelaces, but the alternator had locked up (I still have it somewhere... it spins after cooling off, but very rough, and it sounded like marbles in a can for over a year).

170k on that poor timing belt, and you could hear one of the pulleys in there howling like a banshee. I'll give Subaru props for making a hell of a timing belt though. Also had a larger turbo, but no tune at all (he had an Accessport, but didn't want to pay someone to tune it), and blew clouds of blue smoke (probably from the every other year oil changes). The last time I drove it, I'm pretty sure it wasn't boosting at all, but it was throwing so many codes that I didn't even bother trying to find boost codes (I didn't dare wind it up high in case the timing belt let go, but he'd beat on it a bit... my old Outback was able to hang with him until about 30ish, which is just sad).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:57 on May 23, 2022

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Trust me, I felt horrible for the car. I babied that poor thing every time I drive it. I think I took it to 5k once, and I was shocked at how absolutely gutless it felt (but given the amount of smoke, either the turbo or rings had exited the chat a long time ago). I've driven my share of Subarus, ALL OF THEM N/A except for this one... this thing was way down on power compared to even an NA Subaru. Remember I said my Outback could hang up to about 30? It was a 2003 Outback wagon with an automatic... it tipped the scales at something stupid like 4000 pounds, with 150 hp. It was HEAVY. It was slow as balls. I think it ran 18s in the 1/4 mile. The 4 cylinder version of the Geo Metro could run away and hide from me without realizing we were racing. Priuses laughed at me.

The irony is... I was the only one who could reliably find 1st, 2nd, and reverse. I could find them easier than he could; he put 150k of those miles on, I put maybe 50 miles on it. Found reverse first time every time (it took him anywhere from 3-15 tries for reverse, and he often would catch 4th instead of 2nd when upshifting). The shifter was leaning far left, but after driving it a block or so I had a good feel for it. Clutch was pretty done, but wasn't slipping yet and still had a decent feel.

I'm not sure what that says about me - I've owned a ton of manual cars, but most of them had the older style Honda shifters (rods, not cables). The only non-Honda manuals I've owned have been 2 Saturns and 1 Nissan; I know the Saturns had cable shifters, I don't remember what the Nissan had (99 Altima). The only Honda I had with a cable shifter was an 01 Accord.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:23 on May 23, 2022

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Oh goddamn, I just now watched that video. Title is misleading though, it didn't plow through a crowd. :colbert:

I'd still be pulling threads from my pants out of my rear end if that happened to me, but I'm also not a great driver. I'll hoon around in the rain/snow in an empty parking lot, that's about the most I've ever done.

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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Suburban Dad posted:

I know gently caress all about hondas but don't most NA engines with added turbos need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to get rising fuel pressure with added boost? Sounds like you need a different spring in the wastegate also so your baseline is 5-6 psi maybe. Then up it from there with tuning. Are you doing any compensation with the ECU for the injectors? Really need to get all that dialed in as a baseline before you bother tuning it. What is the AFR on a decel, foot off the gas? I would assume you'd go into fuel cutoff and it would peg the gauge lean (20+).

Honda EFI of that era is reliable as hell, but fairly primitive - but can still compensate for a lot of stuff. Don't really need to tune unless you've gone with boost and/or cams usually. MAP only, no MAF. Depending on year they may or may not have a knock sensor (IIRC a P28 ECU is the 92-95 SOHC VTEC ECU, pretty sure they didn't get a knock sensor until the 96 model year in the US). You ABSOLUTELY need to tune with a turbo, the stock ECU doesn't take kindly to positive pressure in the manifold. I don't think the sensor does either, or if it does it can only handle a very low amount of boost. I seem to remember a particular GM MAP being a common swap with chipped ECUs; there's a dirt cheap MAP that can handle 3 bar (~45 PSI - I want to say it was the MAP from the 3800? I haven't played HondaLegos in a long, long time tho)

Stock, it should cut fuel on decel until about ~1000 RPM.

And yeah, they do need an adjustable FPR once boost is in the equation. The stock FPR will give rising pressure under load...... until boost is added. But there's a chance he's popped the diaphragm on the stock FPR; it's attached to manifold vacuum and not meant to deal with boost. It may already be feeding it straight from the fuel pump with no regulation (sounds like it is with how rich it's running). I don't think the stock one is replaceable without changing the fuel rail, but I may be wrong; if it's popped, then it'll need to be replaced even if it's not used anymore, otherwise it'll wind up spraying gas out of the vacuum port.

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