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NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
not sure if this is a quick question or not so I made it its own thread https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3950179

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NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
I'm trying to set up a bed frame and I've run into something strange. The three cross beams match up with these three slots in each rail, but don't have any clear way of fastening to them. You can tell from the scuffs that the previous owner just left the beams sitting on top. But the beams also have oddly convenient holes on the ends, and are telescoping so those holes could line up with the slots if the beams were underneath. Anyone have an idea how these are supposed to work?





Beam flipped over:

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
How reliable an indicator of effectiveness is the NRR rating on hearing protectors?

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

AmbassadorofSodomy posted:

Read the sciency poo poo, but good rule of thumb is if it says something like "good for up to 100db" don't actually use it if you're going to be around something thats 100db.
Basically stay under whatever the rating is. Every now and then I work around vac trucks which are loud as gently caress and when I do I wear plugs and muffs even though my muffs are "good" for up to XXdb.

None of the ones I'm looking at have any "up to," it's just a NRR of 24 or 30 or whatever. What I'm trying to do specifically is find some muffs that have bluetooth so I can listen to podcasts while I work, but none of them seem to have ratings above 25, which worries me.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

korora posted:

Are you sure you need more than 25? Not sure what you’re trying to block out but for podcasts + power tools I have the 3M worktunes (NRR 24) and they make things pretty quiet. See also this article which has quite clear explanations of NRR in general: https://noisyworld.org/noise-reduction-rating-usage/

Maybe that is all I need then. Thanks.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
I've got a really old doorknob that seems to use #8-24 screws, which I don't have. Can you get those anywhere?

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

Leperflesh posted:

That's an odd size. Just looking at bit at mcmaster-carr, they have 8-32 and 10-24 but not 8-24
For reference, #8 is a .164" thread diameter, and 24 threads per inch appears to be more coarse-threaded than such a thin screw is made to. How did you measure or discover the size for your doorknob?

Just looking a bit, and a "British Standard Whitworth" screw 3/16-24 is 0.1608 which you could probably get to work.
https://britishfasteners.com/stainless-philister-screw-bsw-3-16-x-3-4-7203.html
If you go this route, triple-check the sizing because the info I see isn't totally clear about which diameter that is (screws have at least two, and I've seen three listed)...

If I were in your place I'd replace the doorknob.

That would probably be the smart option, but it's been broken for years so now it feels like some kind of personal challenge. The reason I think it's #8-24 is a 10-24 screws in fine for a turn and a half until the tapered edge gets to the bigger part and it gets tight. #6 goes right through, and #8 screws in briefly, at a slight angle, like you'd expect for the threads being the wrong density. The threads also look more like 24 than 32 when I shine on a light on them.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

Bad Munki posted:

Did you check metric options?

DaveSauce posted:

Someone else suggested metric, but I just want to throw in there that an M5 thread is awfully close to a 10-32 (I think, something on that neighborhood). Close enough where it's super easy to confuse them. IIRC one will actually fit fairly well in to a hole for the other.

Yeah, I checked metric. iirc 4 was too small and 5 would almost fit but not quite, similar to 10-32.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Is it normal for an oven to put a bunch of hot air out from the back of the stovetop when it's on?

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
How do you safely walk around on house's roof?

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Very carefully.

It depends alot on the roof slope, roofing material, weather conditions etc. both to keep you and the roof unharmed. Pretty much every roofer wears sneakers not boots because they're a lot better on roofs. Keep your body low, don't be afraid to get two 3" thick pieces of upholstery foam and leapfrog/crawl around them, especially if you have a fragile roof. Asphalt shingles are usually pretty grippy and not bad to walk on, silicone coated metal roofing is incredibly slippery if its even slightly wet.

I think it's got asphalt shingles.

PainterofCrap posted:

If the pitch is steep (beyond 6/12) then leave it to a pro. Roofs are almost always steeper than they look.

If you're gonna go: First thing is proper footwear. Boots with crepe soles, like Cougar Paws. No sneakers.



You can install roof jacks by pulling up shingles & screwing them in & letting the shingle back down. Generally, you;d attach a board across two of them, but you could use one as a fall-arrest anchor. But you gotta get way up there first.

The angle of the steepest tier of the roof appears to be slightly less steep than 45 degrees. I have a beam supporting a gable that I could tie something to, but it's on one side and there are no other anchor points on the other. I have to do this myself because I can't afford to hire anyone to work on it. Would it work to buy these and glue them to an old sneaker? https://www.amazon.com/MIIDII-Replacement-Anti-Slip-Thickness-Natural/dp/B0865MCJ2W/

NotNut fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Dec 3, 2023

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
I need to remove some glue from vinyl without damaging it. Is there a solvent that could do this?

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I don't know the answer, but I do know that it's gonna depend on what kind of glue it is.

I don't know unfortunately, but I've got a bunch of the same type of glue as well as a bunch of the same type of vinyl to test, so I can throw stuff at the wall until it sticks. I'm guessing the glue isn't very expensive or heavy duty so that's where I'd start.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

Flipperwaldt posted:

Is the glue flexible and tacky, or hard? What was glued to what? If it's like label residue on a window frame, I'd try wd40.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Is it just a random jar labelled 'vinyl glue?' How do you not have any idea what kind it is?

It's a product I bought with a bunch of plastic pieces glued to a bunch of vinyl pieces. I only need one of them, but I need the plastic and vinyl separated. The glue itself seems hard, not really flexible.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Are there wood shims that taper from left to right, along the short axis, instead of tapering from one tip to the other?

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NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

esquilax posted:

What could that do that 10 regular shims can't?

Or do you mean a shim with the woodgrain running a direction that would make the tip break off super easily

It would just be really convenient for my project to have one or two shims that taper that way instead of trimming and stacking a whole bunch of sideways shims.

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