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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Slugworth posted:

I'll poke my head up and check for a ridge vent. Since the fan looks... Vintage, I'm assuming the attic was designed around it. Looks like I'll be waking up early to beat the heat and try to replace the fan before it gets smotheringly hot up there.

The ridge vent is observable from the outside. It looks like someone stacked shingles along the apex of the roof.

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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Anybody use any floorplan apps for iOS? About to head to our house to take some measurements for stuff and it’d be fun to mess around and do some room planning. Willing to pay a little cash.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

BonoMan posted:

Anybody use any floorplan apps for iOS? About to head to our house to take some measurements for stuff and it’d be fun to mess around and do some room planning. Willing to pay a little cash.

Quoting myself to say I ended up using the Magicplan free tier and it was pretty awesome.

I have an older iPad so I wasn't able to utilize any lidar stuff from an iPhone, but the AR still did a decent enough job. Supplemented with some laser measure readings and it's really quick to get an accurate floorplan made of your house. (it even has an option to integrate directly with a bluetooth enabled laser measure if you have one - I didn't).

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
General LED bulbs Are less that $2 a pop here unless I'm missing something?

Lowe's has an 8 pack of dimmable LED bulbs by GE for $24 and a 16 pack of regular ones for under $20

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
We're looking into solar tubes as well. We're currently in a very shady spot which is great for our temps/cooling costs. But yeah it's a cave. And after living in two houses that have tons of natural light... It really does a number on your mental state. And artificial light just isn't cutting it.

When we were looking at houses we saw one in a similar situation that had a solar tube and I really loved it both the look and effect were kind of cool

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Basic Poster posted:

Yeah, it's really just about the piece and the age of the place. Canned lights and sun tubes look pretty modern and lack the cool prismatic effects of...well, a prism. If you've been in a boat with one on a sunny day, it's quite a wonderful light source.

With a sun tube, they also put a while in your roof and I agree the inner tube is polished of chromed or aluminized mylar or something which is all fine, I just was thinking of putting a different lens on the business end.

The one I saw did have some sort of bug-eye style prism thing on the end of it. Basically it did not look at all like the downlight styles I see in modern ones. The end of it looked like a thick glass circle comprised of 4 smaller thick glass circles (but the entire thing was glass... so like the bug eye effect I mentioned).

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jul 21, 2022

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Hot water heater questions:

1.) What are the metal wires coming off these pipes? Google tells me bonding wires? (but they seem to generally go from one pipe to to the other while one of mine goes into the ceiling and one to the inside of the wall). Grounds?

2.) I am trying to seal obvious holes around the house - mainly for bug incursion. This is actually on an internal wall (hot water heater and washer dryer are in a bathroom). I have some fireblock spray foam lyin' around... can I use that?

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Awesome thanks. No idea where that saddle valve goes to. No humidifier and definitely not the fridge. It goes straight into the ceiling so hopefully I can pop up in the attic and figure it out.

I love how Motronic was just talking about saddle valves and the poo poo they can cause and then I'm like "hey what's this?" and of course it's a saddle valve.

edit: in the home zone thread, not this one.

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jul 21, 2022

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

shut up blegum posted:

Is there any good free planning/drawing software out there? I'm gonna remodel my attic and want to draw a floor plan etc because it's pretty oddly shaped. All I can think of right now is sketchup, but I think that's more for 3D stuff?

I use the free version of magicplan ... It's been pretty great. Has Bluetooth connectivity if you have a Bluetooth laser measure. Can even do AR scanning if you want. Or you can just do it manually.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Here's magicplan - https://www.magicplan.app/

It's literally built for on-site contractors, technicians, etc that need to quickly build floorplans (if they're quoting stuff, etc). Has tons of preset "objects" to just quickly add any feature of a room.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
That's all well and good for the extremely pedantic. But in my nearly 50 years on this earth, I've always heard people refer to something they rent as an "apartment" and something they own as a "condo". This is with anything that remotely resembles "multiple units in a single building."

While not correct (as you have so thoroughly pointed out) it does give some conversational context. When the guy you first quoted said "apartment", I assumed he meant "a place he rented." As I think most people did.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Motronic posted:

It's not extremely pedantic: it's extremely where you've spent your nearly 50 years on this earth.

Now you have been notified that not everyone misuses these terms, so when speaking you have all the information you need to not make assumptions that every place in the world misuses this particular terminology in the same way that you are accustomed to.

See, it's easy once you know.

I'm in the States, same as you. Don't know what to tell you. Most people (if not all) I've ever talked to have never referred to a place they own as "an apartment."

Obviously we just run in different circles.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
First new house fix done. Corrected a mis-wired three way switch. Feeling cute may do some drywall patching later.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

CzarChasm posted:

My wife requested a way to elevate the shower head in our main bathroom, so I purchased and installed this S curve pipe



Installed fine, works fine. All good there.

The issue is that we have a shower caddy that secures over the pipe, but because there's not enough straight pipe coming off the wall, I can't secure it. If I could secure it, it would jut out at an angle instead of flat against the wall

This is the caddy we have
https://www.amazon.com/simplehuman-Adjustable-Stainless-Anodized-Aluminum/dp/B00PR0V2BE?th=1

This is the clasp, it's two half circles that are held together with a screw on one side


Is there some kind of hook that I could lay over the pipe, that I could then secure the shower rack to? Water proof and able to hold up two full shampoo bottles. Helpful if not ugly.

Honestly, if weight isn't too big of an issue, I'd just glue another suction cup to the top (similar to the ones at the bottom) and suction it all just below the shower head and not worry about using the hook.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Motronic 100% does not have great people skills but he does provide good and accurate advice so we've just learned to put up with it in exchange for the info!

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

AFewBricksShy posted:

Also get ready for a horrendous smell and a bunch of old rotting food sludge.

My first house had a disposal that was at least 20 years old. We were doing some general plumbing so we had it removed and when they removed that horizontal pipe.

Oh my god. It made me never want a disposal ever again.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Hell I'd go a step further for cheap light stuff.

Put nail in wall. Hang picture by resting middle of frame directly on nail.

Drink beer.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

redreader posted:

I have 2 strings of christmas lights that don't work. I investigated both of them: one (1) had a missing light and the other one (2) didn't. I pushed all the lights in to make sure they connect properly. I have another string (3) that half works. it's the end half that works, not the part near the plug. there's one light (halfway through the first part, with not-lit lights on either side of it) that is missing.

1: I took the string that looked complete, and replaced the fuses in the plug. it still doesn't work.
2: I took the string with the missing light that entirely didn't work, and put a new light in. it also still doesn't work, lol.
3: I'll try replacing the light in this one but I don't have high hopes!

Should I just throw them away? I don't know what the gently caress I'm doing. I have more replacement fuses and lights that I saved.

Unless they are sentimental for... some reason... I'd say yeah just throw away and replace and then spend your energy elsewhere.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Is it possible for pipes in a particularly poorly insulated exterior wall under the kitchen sink to get condensation on them? There was a tiny bit of moisture collected for an unknown amount of time and I can't really tell where it could have come from. The valves all felt dry. I put down some paper towel to see if I can get some drip marks or something but I'm trying to think of what else could account for it.

Is there anything for your pipes to be nervous about?

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

C-Euro posted:

Any suggestions for popping one of these bad boys out of their hole?


Something like a magnetized pair of tweezers or something adhesive. I have a screwdriver with a magnetic tip but it's not strong enough to remove this.

That's just a cam lock fastener. All if you have to do is rotate to a certain position and it'll come out. It's not threaded any or anything. Generally rotating 90 or 180 degrees to left will unlock it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJxtZaWfLOQ

edit: If you know what it is and it just seems stuck then some needle nose should give you the grip it needs (just make sure it's *actually* unfastened).

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jan 8, 2023

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Hughmoris posted:

Kitchen question:

I have a family member that just moved into a rental. They have a ton of tall kitchen cabinets but each cabinet only has one drat wood shelf in it. It's one of those styles where you can put pegs inside the cabinet and rest a shelf on it.

What's the easiest/cheapest way to go about adding more shelves? It doesn't need to be fancy, just hold plates/glasses etc... Do I get measurements and take it to Home Depot and ask them to cut a whole bunch of wood, or can I get pre-cut sizes or what?

Do they have the make of the cabinets? I would try that first. Going and getting wood from HD or Lowes is gonna add up and you'll need to stain it, etc to make sure it matches. The cabinet maker likely has shelves they can get you directly.

Also Home Depot and Lowes cutting machines are like McDonald's Ice Cream machines. They're never working.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Speaking of cracks in the grout in a shower. Just found this crack behind a shampoo bottle.

It definitely wasn't there about a month or so ago (as far as I can remember). This bathroom was redone in June before we moved in. Can I just patch it with something? It's about 4-ish inches tall.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Motronic posted:

Looks like they grouted the corners, which is not something I would suggest/do. Corners move, so they're gonna crack.

If that were my place and I had lots of time I'd dig that entire line of grout out of the corner and any other corners and replace it with a nice quality silicone caulk. If I didn't have much time I'd just dig out that cracked section and silicone caulk it there knowing I'll probably have to come back and to the rest at some point in the future.

Good to know! Thanks! I think replacing the corner grout is doable (over time at least... we got lots of "small" crap we're going around fixing).

edit: and there's a nice little grout removal tool for my rotozip (my favorite new tool)

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Feb 7, 2023

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

PainterofCrap posted:



3) avoid 'systems.' Stick to 5" aluminum K or, it you've got money to burn: half-round. If you have haystacks of money to burn: copper :swoon:

But no systems.

As an aside to this, as my first house had -shudder- plastic gutters, I was stunned when I finally got them replaced with steel that I could just... put the ladder up against them and climb up it! Strong mofos.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Have a DIY drain that I'd like to make a little more permanent.

At the end of our driveway the water pools when it rains.

At the *other* end of our driveway, by our house, there's a little drainage culvert that takes all the water away.

But it wasn't quite draining so, before we own the house, the neighbors dug a little trench to let the water at the street collect into the culvert and drain away.

It totally works but I'd like to make it look a little nicer and bury it. Supply wise it seems easy enough, drain pipes with a catch basin at the street side. But are there any tips'n'tricks to ensuring the long trench stays downward sloping all the way to the culver?




edit: Ok so IMGUR is just a completely worthless site now? Won't work for me. Can't edit images. On the off chance the image DOES load to edit... there's two different editors and you can get to them through different means? One is like a "Crop/rotate" editor and one is a meme maker style thing?

And neither save. The "crop/save" editor will only load correctly 1 out of 10 tries and then says it saves the crop but the image remains unchanged once I exit the editor (and yes I click "apply" then "save"). The meme style editor won't work. If I click save it just say "image too big" (even if I made *zero* changes). What a shame.

What are IMGUR alternatives?

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 9, 2023

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Xenix posted:

The photos make it look like there is much more fall than you'd strictly need. Clean up the bottom of the trench so it's relatively smooth and use a 6 foot level. Make sure the bubble is at least touching the line on the upslope side of the level all the way down. That's about a 2% slope. Smooth walled PVC or ABS only needs about 1% to drain well, unless we're talking about extreme volumes of water.

The photo is a little misleading (I didn't take one from the side like a newbie), if you're looking at it it looks pretty flat. In fact I wasn't even sure it was going to drain properly when the neighbor told me about her digging it. But should definitely be able to get enough of that slope... thanks!

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

So the weeping part was grafted onto the rootstock. For whatever reason, the grafted on part weeping part has died and what you have left is the rootstock. Looks like some sort of cherry or maybe birch to me. You can cut off all the dead stuff but you’re gonna have a weird looking lopsided tree.

I think your time/money would be better spent in cutting it down and planting a new tree. It doesn’t look super healthy overall and it’ll probably start to rot from where you cut the dead stuff off (if it hasn’t already).

Aren't weeping cherries pretty invasive? Not sure where I'm remembering/misremembering that from

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Our Maytag drier's heating element seems to have burned out exactly one month after the 1 year warranty expired.

What's the best site to order replacement parts for these sorts of things? Seems easy enough to replace.

edit: and alternatively I guess is there anything else I should check?

edit 2: Sorry I was posting in a huff. Maytag model# MEDC465HW0

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Jul 17, 2023

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

H110Hawk posted:

I would also call and see if they will make you whole on this. That's a pretty amazingly short amount of time for a heating element to burn out. Are you sure it's that? Got a multi-meter? Ohm and continuity the element (when removed.) Set it to AC Volts. Now, carefully unplug your dryer. Next, check it's in Volts AC, jam one probe into one side of the outlet, and the other into the other side. If it's a 3-pronger it's left and right. Should say like 240V or something. Next, do left+bottom, 120V, right+bottom, 120V. If it's a 4-prong outlet I think it's the same thing but left+right, left+top, left+bottom, right+top, right+bottom.

I should def give a call. I do have a multimeter and some YouTubin' down the DIY river tells me to check a few things in the back as well so I'm going to do that tomorrow and hope it's just a $20 part!

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

kid sinister posted:

Amazon. That part (# 279838 ) has been the same for 30+ years. What makes you think that it is a burnt out heating element?

I would also check your flue to make sure that it isn't clogged. Blocked airflow can make your dryer get too hot, which can speed along a failing heating element.

Yeah knee jerk was heating element, then after I posted and YT'd it a bit... I'm sure it's either probably something smaller.

I was *just* back there the other day and at least checked the flue where it connects to the external pipe. It seemed fine and air flow out of it is strong.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

kid sinister posted:

Do you have a multimeter? You can check the heating element along with the thermostat and cut off fuse with just a resistance test.

Or does it not even spin? Because that's a burnt out thermal fuse. I have gotten multiples of all 4 of those before. Hell, on some dryers, the red wire attached to the heating element likes to burn out right at the blade terminal.

Seriously, I fix dryers all the time for my job. The whole Whirlpool family of dryers are super simple to repair and well within the ability of a homeowner to fix.

Yeah I have a multimeter. From the couple of videos I've seen it def looks super simple. Gonna check it all out tomorrow when I have a moment (aka the kids are at school).

It does still spin.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

H110Hawk posted:

I would also call and see if they will make you whole on this. That's a pretty amazingly short amount of time for a heating element to burn out. Are you sure it's that? Got a multi-meter? Ohm and continuity the element (when removed.) Set it to AC Volts. Now, carefully unplug your dryer. Next, check it's in Volts AC, jam one probe into one side of the outlet, and the other into the other side. If it's a 3-pronger it's left and right. Should say like 240V or something. Next, do left+bottom, 120V, right+bottom, 120V. If it's a 4-prong outlet I think it's the same thing but left+right, left+top, left+bottom, right+top, right+bottom.

Ok 3 pronger.

Left and right - 248-250 range.

Left + Bottom and right + Bottom - both at a steady 124

Are those too high?

(about to take the back off the dryer and check continuity, but wanted to post those before I forget)

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Hey guys think I found why my dryer isn't working!

On recollection, Lowe's installed the dryer when we moved in. It was brand new and the right screw in this picture was missing. I bet they swapped out the plug and hosed something up.

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jul 18, 2023

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

The steam/clothes iron trick won't work completely in this case, because he absolutely severed fibers and removed material from the door. Bondo and paint is potentially an option, though. My primary goal here is to rehab the door enough to sell the house, so really all I care about is that there won't be issues that will make prospective buyers lowball me.

I would just replace it. Bondo and matching the profile is just gonna be an exercise in frustration and probably not worth taking the time away from the million other things you will be doing (and doggo time).

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

H110Hawk posted:

:toot:

Call Lowes. That's on them.

So after nearly five days we finally have a resolution. They kept passing the buck forEVER and never calling us back.

Finally someone calls my wife (even though they were supposed to be calling me) and said that it was installed correctly and in fact they had photographic proof it was installed correctly and they wouldn't be refunding anything.

Needless to say I called and raised even more hell and finally got connected to someone at the warehouse that said the only photos they had were showing it was delivered and nothing showing the cords.

So without even a fuss he just refunded it and is price matching to the current price (we bought on sale for $430 and it's $800 now).

I'm glad it got resolved but I just hate how endlessly and tirelessly you have to be your own vocally irate advocate lest they just gently caress you over.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

jetz0r posted:

There is a trick for getting caulk/silicone to look perfect, use canned glass cleaner.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHwmqkoz1tE



Came for the tip, stayed for the U2 soundtrack.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Leperflesh posted:

I had a smoke detector going off intermittently and when I took it down to figure out why, a spider came out and then it was fixed. So check your smoke detector for spiders.
I would rather just let the house burn

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

H110Hawk posted:

The "not lovely" version of those is soft-close hinges. Just grab some felt or rubber/silicone ones from home depot and go to town.

I will never... EVER... NOT... use soft close again. My new house has them for the cabinets and it's the most amazing thing ever. Total life changer.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I hate them. They're so slow. Thankfully most soft close hinges have a little switch you can flip to disable the soft close mechanism.

Slow? You swing it closed and it just catches right before it hits and closes itself softly

What's slow? Are you waiting on something?

Motronic posted:

When new I find that leaving both on soft close is just WAY too slow. One on, one off seems to be pretty decent.

Maybe mine are like this.

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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

I would blow Dane Cook posted:

I just framed this jigsaw puzzle and there is a slight gap between the edge of the jigsaw puzzle and the edge of the mat board. What would be the best way to make it look nicer? I was thinking putting a big piece of paper behind it might help.



Can you post a closer shot? Honestly get it re-matted. Shouldn't be expensive. Can even do it yourself depending on how they mounted the puzzle.

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