The Slack Lagoon posted:

Thanks all, great info. Going to spend some more time thinking this out and figuring out what to do, but I have a related question. Currently there is a piece of countertop (quartz counter), that sticks up from the back of the counter and against the wall. It's attached in some way, I assume adhesive, to the counter itself. It makes kind of an L shape from the counter to wall. Would it be possible to remove that piece of quartz from the top of the counter and tile that space instead? I think it's about 3 inches or so. I think it would look a lot better to have counter then tile, instead of counter, counter, tile. Plus the piece is about 2" thick so it's taking up a decent chunk of counter real estate.

regulargonzalez posted:

If I understand correctly, he wants to cut off the backsplash portion of the quartz countertop.

The Slack Lagoon posted:

Here are some pictures. Let me know if you need a picture of another part of it.
https://imgur.com/a/NteaIUZ

The Slack Lagoon posted:

regulargonzalez posted:

A 2-3" section of grout keeps coming out of my plank tile floor. Obviously one of the tiles didn't get enough thinset. I really, really don't want to take it out and replace it. Is there any other option.

http://imgur.com/a/9cDVSIV (HDR makes the tile and grout look strange, but the only problem area is where it's coming out)

regulargonzalez posted:

That's pretty genius but I'll never be able to match the color

regulargonzalez posted:

Problem is I mixed three colors together to match the tile. I know the recipe I used so I guess theoretically I can buy the three matching colors of caulk and mix them.

Chillyrabbit posted:

I was looking up getting some security film for my exterior door windows. Why yes my $200 smart lock can be defeated with a rock.

Do window films work in terms of these lofty claims of better heat retention in the winter and heat rejection in the summer? Is that something that I should look into applying to my windows as a cheaper alternative to replacing it, with a double pane window?

Blakkout posted:

I have a question about grouting and sealing some mosaic tile for a backsplash that I installed this weekend.

I'm in the middle of my 24-72 hour window for the tile adhesive to dry. My mosaic is is made up of about 80% glass tiles and 20% some kind of grey stone tile. The grey stone tiles seem really porous--I got a small amount of blood from my hand on one while cutting, and it stained it so bad I had to just replace that tile.

Will the white grout I want to apply next also stain the grey stone tile? I assumed that the order of operations would be to apply the grout once the tile adhesive has set, allow the grout to set, and then spray tile/grout sealant on on the tiles and the grout all at once, but I'm reading on the back of my spray bottle of sealant that it can be applied directly to stone before grouting to avoid staining. So now I'm wondering if I should be sealing the tiles before I apply the grout and then sealing the grout after it cures?

Blakkout posted:

Thanks for both responses.




Grout: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polyblend-381-Bright-White-10-lb-Non-Sanded-Grout-PBG38110/100553533

Sealer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-TileLab-SurfaceGard-24-oz-Penetrating-Sealer-TLSGS24Z/202907662

Blakkout posted:

drat. My joints are1/8”. Bought unsanded grout because I read that sanded grout can scratch high-polish glass tiles during application.

Omne posted:

The grout at the seam of where my tiled floor meets my tiled tub/shower in a guest bath is cracked all the way through. Do I need to get an oscillating tool to remove it and then try to match the original grout? Remove the bad stuff and put in something else?

Omne posted:

Yeah, it's a plane change:





The grout is a grey color, so I suspect something like this will work: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Silicone-2-10-1-oz-Gray-Silicone-Caulk/3084943

ETA: I also have a cracked tile in another bathroom, same tile and grout that's in the images above. For that, I'd need to use grout, right?

FogHelmut posted:

I imagine that asking in this thread they're for work, not for fashion.

What type of work? Indoor? Outdoor? Ladders? Wet? Dry?

The guy from the Rose Anvil youtube channel put Redback boots as the most comfortable. I mean if you want to go down a hole of an expert cobbler cutting boots in half and describing how they're made and ranking them on quality, that's the place.


edit- don't get "heritage" boots unless you're a fashion weirdo. They're horribly uncomfortable compared to modern materials, even after break-in.

Blowjob Overtime posted:

Agreed. Safety toes don't add as much weight as they used to, and I've never encountered a situation where it was a disadvantage to have them.

VelociBacon posted:

Get a new chair before that breaks and punches through the seat cushion into your rear end in a top hat.

PainterofCrap posted:

You will need:
alcohol
acetone
blue tape
Q-tips &/or a low-nap rag

you should have:
nitrile gloves

a place to paint (a big box with one side cut off works. Or sit it on newspaper, etc. So long as it's outside)

Remove the knob
clean it with alcohol. Get into the recessed parts good. Dunk it, or use a Q-tip or fingernail brush to get all the oils out.
Cover the "R" with blue painter's tape.
Following the instructions on the can, paint the top. You're really painting the shift numbers, but don't worry about the surface.

Let the paint set for at least five minutes, until it looks dry & no longer transfers; it's still quite fragile.
Then, you can either use:
A low-nap rag (cotton T-shirt or underwear is excellent) or Q-tips and clean the surface with acetone, taking care to not hit the recesses. Work from the outside in. Working under good light and with care, you should be able to produce nice, crisp edges around the recesses.

If you can wait, wait overnight, and repeat, this time taping over the numbers and using red on the "R" (if you can't wait, a beer or two/an hour should do)

When done, you can use it as is. If any goons out there can recommend a good coating that won't rub off with the heavy contact a shift knob gets, use that. Otherwise, leave it be; if it eventually wears or chips, repeat the above.

The advantage of using spray paint over brush paint is that you get a far more even application on your surface.

Edit: I used this method on my hubcaps:

H110Hawk posted:

What did you oil them with? White lithium or the wrong thing?

Clean the tracks, and try to see if the track is "straight" still, or if all the wheels spin easily. Do you have a spring?

eddiewalker posted:

Is this all observed with a motorized opener? Have you pulled the release cord and run the door up and down slowly by hand?

mutata posted:

lol what's goin' on in here guys?

Motronic posted:

If the springs have little to no tension when the door is open yes - it's safe to adjust when the door is open. Or just replace them and tension them the same (they do go bad over time and you'll want to replace in pairs so you don't get exactly what you have going on).

The new ones should have a kit with a wire rope that you run down the center of them to keep them from flying around if they break. It's a bit of a pain to retrofit if your existing ones don't have it but probably worthwhile.

To be clear: don't even be near them when the door is closed/they are under tension.

PremiumSupport posted:

They may not kill you, but they can still maim. My advice is not to mess with them unless you know what you are doing. Call a professional.

Bob Shadycharacter posted:

I am planning to tile the floor in my entryway/hallway area. I would like for it to be a continuous floor, but the subfloor in the entryway is 1/8th inch lower than the subway in the hallway because of course it is.

To me the easiest way to fix it seems to be using slightly different backerboard widths but it doesn't seem like a 3/8th width exists (or if it does, it ain't available anywhere currently).

Would throwing down a sheet of 1/8th thick plywood on the lower side under the cement board be stupid? Or am I doomed to attempt self leveling and fail miserably at it?

Bob Shadycharacter posted:

I can try! Imgur seems to hate me but will give it a go:



The tiles are those 6x24 wood look porcelain- I used similar in the half bath. Obviously if I level the entry part with the hallway, the entry will then be slightly higher than the 1/2 bath but eh. This is more visible because the door to the hallway is just an open door, no actual door.

Imgur why. Here is the link, I...guess? https://imgur.com/a/BfmhWF8

Cyrano4747 posted:

If it were mine I'd go the $60 option for the DIY slings and rattle can that poo poo.

Worst case scenario you've spent like ~$75 on slings and paint and can have it powder coated and re-slung by someone who knows what they're doing.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

That’s plaster? Where’s the backing/lathe?

Was it previously repaired? I thought it was drywall at first

alnilam posted:

Concrete/cement question:

First, the background:
We're getting a 78" round hot tub delivered. We have a deck that is like 4" off the ground... underneath it is a concrete slab that is 5" thick. The slab is sufficient, I'm told, to support a hot tub. The old deck wood, not so much. So we cut a hole in the deck to plop the hot tub into, it'll be nice and sunk in there, seems cool.