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yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Mod edit: bad advice

Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Nov 12, 2020

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yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

How deep is that drywall screw? Wait for the plumber before answering...

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I should probably change my under sink shutoff valves. What’s the recommendation for reliability here? I’ve heard quarter turn instead of the annoying ones I have with a thin oval stamped metal handle? Sharkbite on the supply side?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Ahh, I misread the photo. Well, I'm not a plumber, but I don't see why you couldn't raise the run up to where you drew that line. As far as I can tell about the only difference it'd make is if something got jammed you'd have less water pressure to flush it out with.

I wanna say screw those slip joints too. Get some ABS fittings and cement and build a new run much higher up out of the way that’s not going to get jostled and isn’t going to fall apart or leak if it does.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

You can buy lithium ion rechargeables in many form factors including D, with built in USB chargers.

But since the track is stationary, so maybe look for an adequate 9V DC wall supply?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

Link to reputable brands?

Sorry, don’t want to open this can of worms but I buy this sort of stuff from aliexpress, so no reputable brands, no safety guarantees and not here any time soon.

I see on amazon a couple of battery eliminator products that pair a wall supply with stand in spacer “batteries” but they look overpriced to me. Someone somewhat electronics handy should be able to build you something out of a thrift store find for cheap, as another poster mentioned.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I’d just just try to do a controlled burn with the range hood on. Those elements can stop working if they get cracked.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Not my wheelhouse, but look into a scan converter or upscaler device and use your existing flat screen TV for retro gaming. Getting a CRT seems a bit excessive unless you’re posting in yospos.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

cr0y posted:

It was a tiny pebble worth of mineral buildup blocking the little regulator hole at the tip of the faucet head 😑

Yup, always worth a quick check for that. Nice going.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

They make L shaped mending plates that screw in from the back too. Whatever you choose I’d clamp the piece before installing, a little wiggle room is pretty apparent.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Elviscat posted:

You can't cut the plug off, because it's molded into the power supply case, it most likely comes with the adapter, if not it's fed by a little LED power supply, google "LED Power Supply" and you'll get your choice of a billion cheap power supplies with a 5.5mm DC cannon plug that should work with the light as-is.

Just check that the current matches.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

DreadLlama posted:

Where can I get the best price in Canada? Will mat work OK or do I need woven?

Alternate question: Is there a better material for this application?

Does it actually need to be rigid? I assume your reflective material will be essentially a big piece of sheet metal or something like that. If it’s pressing down on the support, as long as the support is taught it should be good. If it’s regular canvas or poly or nylon webbing, you could fasten one side and pull/relax the other side for adjusting focus.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

E: Hooked up the battery charger (30~ year old Sears model), earth grounded the generator, let it run for an hour. Started on 2A, worked fine, flipped to 10A, guage on the charger starts swinging, flipped back to 2A and it held fine. His batteries were getting down to 11v flat. Got him up to 12.3v before cutting it off, already back to 11.8v an hour later. That lovely controller or whatever, when cycling through, seemed to indicate 10 amps across all 10 batteries. But who knows because the manual is poorly photocopied chinenglish.

If the batteries were also inherited from a previous owner I would test them. They sound pooched.

It should be safe to charge the batteries with the charge controller connected. You can run those things in parallel.

I’d get a better charge controller. One with MPPT can more efficiently harvest power from the same panels. Mine has a selectable battery type setting and does cell equalization to maintain battery health. It even has a relay with both normally open and closed contacts so you can fire up a generator if the voltage drops too much or turn on power to some discretionary circuit if the batteries are charged.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005


Dimensional lumber worked well for me and is more attractive than melamine in my opinion. Depending on the store around here it was quite cheap and of nice quality, with interesting grain patterns, but I live in a place with a lot of pine logging. Could throw some stain and varnish on it if you were feeling fancy.

Or, if your shelves aren’t bowing very much, maybe a simple peg, almost invisible, at the back where the middle stud is would be enough to support it.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

One final thing, there are drainage tubes that run inside your car that can clog or leak, not just from the seal. Google for ideas on checking and fixing that.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Unplug your pump the next time you’re going to be at home for 6 hours and keep an eye on it.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Suburban Dad posted:

Electric stovetop has one burner that's on full blast no matter what the knob is set to (but does turn off). Guessing potentiometer or something failed. Is there any troubleshooting or replacement I can do to fix it? The others all seem to work normally. GE profile series.

Those things are pretty generic and you can swap it out for a replacement easily.

They are not potentiometers, they are a self contained heater and thermostat that cycles the output power. Search for “infinite switch” for background info. Yours could be repairable instead, but you might end up disturb the range of it so it’s 0-75% instead.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Me, personally, would not worry about it. You could also crack open the housing and try looking at the markings on the PCB. With these sorts of things some guy is soldering wires on a 12 hour shift and it'll work whichever way he does, so I wouldn't be too surprised if he zoned out while doing yours.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Slugworth posted:

I'd been toying with this idea, but I always hear it's bad for the drill's bearings.

You’re probably ok, just wrap or sandwich the sand paper a bit so there’s less lateral force. I think the bigger issues come from trying to use a drill as a router.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

My buddy’s heat pump outdoor unit freezes over frequently when heating in the winter. Does anyone ever bolt aftermarket heat sinks to these things to increase efficiency? If this is a thing, can anyone direct me to further resources?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

It’s just about feeezing here, so it’s natural to to get icy. It’s an older Daikin ducted system, don’t know the details on it except apparently there are complaints about the aggressive defrost cycle with these so I suspect it’s a little bit of suboptimal physical design patched over in firmware going on here.

He’s on top of the regular maintenance and cleaning, so I was just doing some outside of the box thinking about improving performance before suggesting replacing the unit.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I’m installing a range hood and a direct horizontal vent out the wall behind it. i.e. the duct is going to be a couple inches long, flush on both sides of the wall. How am I supposed to tape up the duct like the instructions suggest? I can only think that I could take out the fan assembly temporarily and do it from inside the range hood / duct. Or should I not worry too much and these instructions are more for the people running 15 feet of ducting with lots of connections?

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Leperflesh posted:

Can you install a length of duct to the hood, tape it, and then put the hood in place? You want to tape all joints to prevent smoke and grease from leaking out the edges of the joins.

You probably know this but I'll just mention just in case, that the slightly stretchy grey "duct tape" is not for taping ducts, and in fact is actually duck tape, for taping ducking, a kind of waterproof canvas. You need HVAC duct sealing tape.

Yeah, that’s the problem. The duct is going to be entirely within the wall unless I mount the range hood a couple inches forward from the wall, so there’s no opportunity for taping up the joints unless I open up the wall.

When puzzling over this I saw that the vent cap I bought can slide open to allow to taking the damper out to turn it into an intake, this should give me enough access to tape the inside seams of the duct after connecting everything up. Unless there are better ideas. I could always run a vertical duct and 90 elbow to the wall, giving room to tape the final connection but throwing away a perfect short and direct duct run doesn’t seem great.

Thanks!

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Bloody Mayhem posted:

Apologies, I’m so newbie that I don’t understand what you mean here. Buy new wire and spade connectors basically?

Should be enough slack in your existing wiring to cut off the burnt end and slap a new connector on. Also, if there isn’t, stove wiring sometimes has insulation rated for higher temperatures, random hookup wire might not be sufficient.

You’ll have to strip the end of the wire and crimp that in the inner set of jaws on the new spade connector to make a good electrical connection. Ideally you’d have a crimping tool, wire strippers sometimes have a crimping function, but pliers will work in a pinch. The backmost tabs are designed to clamp onto the insulation and provide some amount of mechanical connection.

I dab a bit of solder on when I do this kind of stuff to ensure it’s a good connection, but it should be fine without.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I’m in Canada. Where’s a good place for curtain hardware? I’d like some wood brackets, but it appears there’s only two styles sold anywhere and they’re really expensive.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Every faucet I’ve seen has a detachable handle. I’d give the screw a chance.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Maybe there’s some way to jack the shed up and optionally pivot it out of the way for a proper pour? 8x11 might be doable with the right equipment.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005


Might be worth checking hoses and possible filters for partial clogs too. Hopefully there’s some quick connect hose clamps to make it easy to work on.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

set up a shopvac at their entrance and go have lunch

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Deadite posted:

I have these outdoor floodlights that I use during Halloween but I need a better way to mount them. They have a bracket with holes that I usually screw to a wooden stake, but that only allows me to adjust the light side-to-side and I’d rather be able to adjust it up and down. Right now if I want to shine it on something tall I have to drive the stake in at an angle which puts it too low to the ground.



Is there some way I can mount this to a stake horizontally and keep it stable? I don’t have any trees or other structures I can hang it from.

Can you loosen the bolts holding that bracket on? those things are usually meant to pivot there in the up-down direction.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

It’s a cool design to bolt the heating element MOSFETs to the cold water input. I never thought to look at how those tankless systems are built.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Deteriorata posted:

It's main toxicity is due to its alkalinity. Otherwise it's just phosphate, which is quite harmless. For example, phosphoric acid is an ingredient in Coca Cola and many other beverages.

Phosphates can cause algae blooms which will kill off other life in bodies of water.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Speaking of drainage, I have to redo my perimeter drains at some point soon. I have a storm water right of way through the back yard so it should be a pretty standard job. I have a local company coming out to give me a quote, but a ballpark figure I heard in the past for this was very expensive so I’m wondering if this could be something I could do myself, maybe in a couple stages. Taking a couple weeks off work and renting equipment would be cheaper than hiring out.

I’m pretty handy but haven’t done drains before. Anyone got a good resource with some best practices so it’s done correctly?

There’s a paved concrete walkway up against one side of the house, would that have to go or would I just run the pipes in front of it?

Edit: My province has an 80 page research paper covering all the bases! https://www.bchousing.org/publications/Builder-Guide-to-Site-and-Foundation-Drainage.pdf

yippee cahier fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Apr 18, 2024

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yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Skipping the hanging part means you can make each bay wider, storing 2-3 totes beside each other if you use 2x4s. You’ll have the vertical rail support pieces in the way if you try to retrofit to standard shelving later.

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