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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Trap it with a Hav-A-Hart, and get it neutered. Start there.

Whatever happens after that is largely up to the cat.

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devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

devicenull posted:

Any tips on house centipedes? I can coexist with a bunch of stuff but they have way too many legs.

My best guess is they're living under the slab of the house, and only coming up sometimes.

I can't figure out what they could possibly be eating, the only bugs I see around the house apart from them are occasional spiders. We've got no plumbing leaks I can find (unless it's under the slab), but there is a stream about 10ft from the house, so it's likely always damp. We've got a whole-house dehumidifer too, and that keeps things around 55% humidity.

Well gently caress me, I went looking for leaks with the boroscope, and I've got a fairly decent leak under the tub whenever it's running.



So, I guess I'll fix that before I go crazy with other options

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

Trap it with a Hav-A-Hart, and get it neutered. Start there.

Whatever happens after that is largely up to the cat.

Yeah, I think later next week I'm gonna call my vet and arrange for this. They probably have a trap they can loan me.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Current status, have been able to pet from the ladder, have been bitten (not at all full pressure....just "STOP TRYING TO PICK ME UP") have built a plastic bin tower and put food on it to try to get the cat down out of the ceiling. Still wearing leather gloves.



I guess I now have three cats instead of just two.

E: yes, I definitely have another cat now and this one is definitely not feral. I need to figure out who this also belongs to.

https://i.imgur.com/YtSkuwk.gifv

Motronic fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jul 2, 2023

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Motronic posted:

Well here's one outside of my experience and training. I thought I had a racoon in the barn because I was finding stuff knocked over and dusty (from the floor) paw prints on the tables and desk/keyboard/shiposting station in the back corner. I misidentified the paw prints.



Came back after being on vacation for a couple of weeks and found this kitty in there, very much not happy to see me and jumped up on the cabinet and then climbed across the rim joist into/onto the soffit.

I have another pic where you can tell he/she has no collar. This has been going on for almost 2 months, including one of my inside cats occasionally going batshit insane in the late evenings yelling and pissing on the floor near one of the back sliding glass doors, presumably when this cat comes out and explores near the house.

Now I need to figure out what to do. Best outcome would be figuring out how to get my other cat to stop freaking out and adopt the barn cat as a barn cat and just leave it there, maybe get my hands on it to vet it if possible (seems feral, but maybe not?). But I have no idea how they are getting in out out. There is no way it survived locked in there when I was gone. And it's sleeping in my desk chair based on the amount of cat hair on it.

I've started making drat sure the pesticide cabinet is closed and that I don't leave anything out because some of the stuff I use normally is very toxic to cats when it's still wet.

If you look for a local TNR (trap, neuter, release) program they might be able to help you out with a trap.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



If you want him/her to come to you, sit or lay on the floor and read a book. Drives them nuts.

If they're still wary: do it next to a bowl of food.

Stay low; every move you make should be slow & deliberate. Eventually your smell will become more familiar.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jul 2, 2023

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Gotta love a post with the cat tax built in. It's like Europe's VAT!

Edit: CAT!

Fatman6942!
Jul 3, 2023

by vyelkin
so whats your take on Alpine? for roach control?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Fatman6942! posted:

so whats your take on Alpine? for roach control?

Everyone I've heard talking about it at the ag extension loves it, providing that what you are talking about is the gel baits and you are getting rotation 1 and 2 and putting them out at the correct times.

Fortunately I have very limited first hand experience.

Fatman6942!
Jul 3, 2023

by vyelkin

Motronic posted:

Everyone I've heard talking about it at the ag extension loves it, providing that what you are talking about is the gel baits and you are getting rotation 1 and 2 and putting them out at the correct times.

Fortunately I have very limited first hand experience.

No I m talking about alpine WSG.

Its hard to control roaches when the people in the apartment next to you dont clean....sigh

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

No control method is going to be very successful in that situation.

Alpine WSG may work for a bit, but it's a compromise solution made specifically for commercial kitchens and such. They will most likely become feeding adverse to it pretty quickly and you'll be right back where you are now. The two gel rotation is specifically to prevent this feeding aversion long enough to kill them all. But you'll not be able to do that because you're not able to control/remediate the source.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Bed bug update... so far haven't seen any signs again. Have been vacuuming, steaming, re-applying Di earth every weekend (7-10 day hatching cycle).


We did see this on the bed the other day, can you all set my wife's mind at east? Pretty sure this is a silverfish and not a bedbug (thorax too torpedo-like, not bulbous) but want to make sure...



index finger for reference. It was really small.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Hed posted:

Bed bug update... so far haven't seen any signs again. Have been vacuuming, steaming, re-applying Di earth every weekend (7-10 day hatching cycle).


We did see this on the bed the other day, can you all set my wife's mind at east? Pretty sure this is a silverfish and not a bedbug (thorax too torpedo-like, not bulbous) but want to make sure...



index finger for reference. It was really small.

That's definitely not a bed bug in the picture.

I'm glad you're staying on top of them and hopefully killing them all. I'd keep at it for as long as possible. They are persistent assholes.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Hed posted:

Bed bug update... so far haven't seen any signs again. Have been vacuuming, steaming, re-applying Di earth every weekend (7-10 day hatching cycle).


We did see this on the bed the other day, can you all set my wife's mind at east? Pretty sure this is a silverfish and not a bedbug (thorax too torpedo-like, not bulbous) but want to make sure...



index finger for reference. It was really small.

I'm not sure what it is but it doesn't really resemble a bed bug. This is a bedbug life stages image from the bedbugs subreddit:
https://i.imgur.com/fKJU5mY.jpg

They do some IDs there but it looks like maybe a springtail due to the large-ish antennae for its body? Possibly a booklouse or something, but I'm not a bug expert.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Yeah, I’d almost certainly say that’s a springtail. Definitely not a silverfish in any case.

Are there plants nearby? Springtails like the kind of environment damp potting soil and organics provide.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Double post cause I came in here with a question:

I’m interested in a pesticide I can spot-apply on a big grape vine I have to put a dent in the huge lantern fly population it’s sheltering.

I’d prefer not to treat the whole thing since lots of other insects use it, so in my head that means I want a preparation that rapidly degrades in open air or under sunlight, or is only effective wet or something, but I’ve no idea if such a thing exists.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

If that existed we probably wouldn't have an SLF infestation anymore. Talstar the poo poo out of those things while they're still there.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Motronic posted:

If that existed we probably wouldn't have an SLF infestation anymore. Talstar the poo poo out of those things while they're still there.

Word, thanks

gay for gacha
Dec 22, 2006

Any tips on getting rid of flies in an outdoor space assuming there isn't trash or anything in the yard? I live in a really urban area so I'm sure someone nearby has a trash problem but i would like to be able to eat outside without worrying about flies swarming.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


gay for gacha posted:

Any tips on getting rid of flies in an outdoor space assuming there isn't trash or anything in the yard? I live in a really urban area so I'm sure someone nearby has a trash problem but i would like to be able to eat outside without worrying about flies swarming.

Fly traps. Tricky traps work okay, the bag ones they use around barns work better. Put them around your property but not right near where you eat as they do attract flies.

Be warned the digested fly juice that gets in them is pretty gross.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Motronic posted:

If that existed we probably wouldn't have an SLF infestation anymore. Talstar the poo poo out of those things while they're still there.

While i'm looking at Domyown to get talstar, would you recommend it also for barrier treatment around e.g., doorways for what i think are odorous house ants

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

the yeti posted:

While i'm looking at Domyown to get talstar, would you recommend it also for barrier treatment around e.g., doorways for what i think are odorous house ants

Yeah, that will work great. But make VERY sure you don't have any cats around it until it's completely dry. One of the active ingredients can not be metabolized by cats so it builds up in their bodies and makes them sick. It's safe for them once dry.


Typically you'd use talstar granules for a perimeter treatment, but I only have liquid (talstar P) since that's what I typically need. When I'm doing a perimeter treatment I spray a foot or two of soil around the building as well as 4-6 inches of the bottom of the building as it meets the ground.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Motronic posted:

Yeah, that will work great. But make VERY sure you don't have any cats around it until it's completely dry. One of the active ingredients can not be metabolized by cats so it builds up in their bodies and makes them sick. It's safe for them once dry.


Typically you'd use talstar granules for a perimeter treatment, but I only have liquid (talstar P) since that's what I typically need. When I'm doing a perimeter treatment I spray a foot or two of soil around the building as well as 4-6 inches of the bottom of the building as it meets the ground.


it's in the same family as permethrin right? When I deploy permethrin on outdoor gear I just do that in the basement and keep the cat out of there until the next day and that's been fine so far, so reckon just keeping all the doors and windows closed while I'm working and changing clothes before coming inside would suffice?

That kind of treatment is approximately what I had in mind, doing a band around the foundation, the porch and deck piers, bottom of the doorways, and so on.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

the yeti posted:

it's in the same family as permethrin right?

Yep. It's bifenthrin.

the yeti posted:

keeping all the doors and windows closed while I'm working and changing clothes before coming inside would suffice?

I don't even bother with changing clothes. I just make sure I'm outside long enough for any overspray to dry before going back in.

Spikes32
Jul 25, 2013

Happy trees
How should I know when I can use the same sprayer for different things vs needing dedicated sprayers? So far I have needed to spray

Neem oil
Castor oil (gophers)
Pemerthin
Rose rx (3 in 1) neem oil bit I can't find what else in the label
BT

And I plan on getting and spraying
Garlic extract
Talstar


Other question I have is what do I do with excess mixture in the sprayer if I'm done. All the label instructions are for the concentrate not the diluted mixture. And the concentrate just says to contact my local solid waste agency :argh:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

You probably want to class your sprayers as to what they are for/what they do. It can vary based on your specific needs.

For example, I do not put wide action herbicides in anything other than dedicated sprayers, because potential residuals could cause issues. I wouldn't mix anything non-organic-certified in a sprayer that would ever service an organic area. Or non-crop-certified pesticides or herbicides in a spray that may spray fruit and vegetables. (I don't do these things except when I do: it's not like I own multiple tow behind spray carts, so you do what you have to do and clean things very well)

In the end, you should be cleaning your spraying equipment well enough that none of this matters. But mistakes happen, and convenience is a thing, so plan accordingly.

As far as what to do with leftover mixed product, you should look at the label. Worst case you are supposed to apply it where you can until it's gone. Some things can be saved in a container and labeled as to what they are. Rinsate from containers and sprayers needs to be handled per the label, but that's again usually applying it to a new area that can be treated or the already treated area.

In reality you're dealing with small amounts and small concentrations. Rinsing and dumping in various places that are safe to the plants/animals/would already be treated around your yard is going to be just fine. Tripe rinse your sprayers (you are supposed to do this with product bottles before you throw them away also), including spraying a good amount of that last "clean" rinaste though them should be plenty to make any sprayer good for anything else.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Jul 21, 2023

Spikes32
Jul 25, 2013

Happy trees
Thanks much appreciate it! I'm getting a 2nd sprayer, but will follow the triple rinse strategy otherwise.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



Motronic posted:

You probably want to class your sprayers as to what they are for/what they do. It can vary based on your specific needs.

For example, I do not put wide action herbicides in anything other than dedicated sprayers, because potential residuals could cause issues. I wouldn't mix anything non-organic-certified in a sprayer that would ever service an organic area. Or non-crop-certified pesticides or herbicides in a spray that may spray fruit and vegetables. (I don't do these things except when I do: it's not like I own multiple tow behind spray carts, so you do what you have to do and clean things very well)

In the end, you should be cleaning your spraying equipment well enough that none of this matters. But mistakes happen, and convenience is a thing, so plan accordingly.

As far as what to do with leftover mixed product, you should look at the label. Worst case you are supposed to apply it where you can until it's gone. Some things can be saved in a container and labeled as to what they are. Rinsate from containers and sprayers needs to be handled per the label, but that's again usually applying it to a new area that can be treated or the already treated area.

In reality you're dealing with small amounts and small concentrations. Rinsing and dumping in various places that are safe to the plants/animals/would already be treated around your yard is going to be just fine. Tripe rinse your sprayers (you are supposed to do this with product bottles before you throw them away also), including spraying a good amount of that last "clean" rinaste though them should be plenty to make any sprayer good for anything else.


Assuming these compounds are generally beyond the realm of something like changing the pH of the rinsate to denature it into something less active?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

the yeti posted:

Assuming these compounds are generally beyond the realm of something like changing the pH of the rinsate to denature it into something less active?

If there is an approved way to do that the label will say so (I've never seen it on the stuff I commonly use). Most of these things are only approved to be sent out as hazmat which they typically incinerate.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

New to me in today, will have a trip report in a couple of months:



I've been rotating through liquids like "liquid deer fence", I've tried the capsaicin pellets that you water in/plant with annuals. They all seem to work to some extent for some amount of time until either this time of year (momma deers at maximum nursing pressure as this years babies are JUST starting to graze) or dead of tough winters where it's "eat literally anything to not starve".

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Motronic posted:

New to me in today, will have a trip report in a couple of months:



I've been rotating through liquids like "liquid deer fence", I've tried the capsaicin pellets that you water in/plant with annuals. They all seem to work to some extent for some amount of time until either this time of year (momma deers at maximum nursing pressure as this years babies are JUST starting to graze) or dead of tough winters where it's "eat literally anything to not starve".

I've got two packs of these so far - https://wirelessdeerfence.com/

It "works" in that it scares deer away when they touch them, we'll see how it does long term. The deer here are relentless. We cannot buy anything that isn't highly deer resistant, and even then we often have to cage it. We started moving on to buying poisonous plants!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devicenull posted:

I've got two packs of these so far - https://wirelessdeerfence.com/

It "works" in that it scares deer away when they touch them, we'll see how it does long term. The deer here are relentless. We cannot buy anything that isn't highly deer resistant, and even then we often have to cage it. We started moving on to buying poisonous plants!

Oh that's interesting. My biggest issue is the bed by the front door with cone flowers and my wife's favorite elephant hosta. It's all fine if i keep spraying until the hosta flowers than it's a losing battle. If I don't spray the hosta is consistently eaten down to the ground every day as is grows.


(those hosta should be taking up most of the bed - the leaves are huge if they don't get eaten)

I have a herd that comes through en the evening. That's fine, but I've got one or more residents too. I've always got at least one mamma deer that drops off a doe for the day near that bed or near the barn. This year she has/has adopted twins. Everything is worse.



I'm not trying to keep them out of the yard. I don't even hunt this property because they are basically pets now. But I just want to push them away from a few landscape beds reliably.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
I would do an electric fence if I could, they have killed tons of things we've planted.

We're by a river though, and apparently are a big pathway for them to go from yard to yard.

If I could find someone to legally hunt them, I would. Hell, you could probably hunt them with a knife, they're utterly fearless.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devicenull posted:

We're by a river though, and apparently are a big pathway for them to go from yard to yard.

The creek they follow is in the woods behind my house. So......yeah.

devicenull posted:

If I could find someone to legally hunt them, I would. Hell, you could probably hunt them with a knife, they're utterly fearless.

Yes, mine are also this tame. I literally go elsewhere to bow hunt.
(that will change if they get overpopulated - they are fine and healthy right now)

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.

slave to my cravings posted:

Glad I found this thread. We were getting eaten alive by tiger mosquitoes last year. I tried spraying with bifenthrin last year and not sure how much it helped. We have a deck that is surrounded by arborvitae trees and some other ornamental grasses so I’m sure those don’t help. I bought some garlic barrier and a mosquitaire thing. I will report back.

The mosquitaire trap thing while it does seem to catch mosquitos doesn’t really make a significant dent in the mosquito population for our backyard/deck area surrounded by trees/shrubs/grasses.

It was particularly dry at the start of the summer when I initially sprayed with the mosquito juice there weren’t any mosquitos anyway. When the rains finally hit I didn’t have the time to spray every 3 weeks.

What did finally work for us was a thermacell. I was skeptical at first but after seeing it in use at a friends house it seemed to work quite well. It’s easy to use and is portable so you can take it to other places and still have mosquito protection. The unit itself is around 25-30$ and refills are 45$ for a 3 pack that are 40 hours each. This is cheaper and easier than basically all the other options if we are only using it 2-3 hours per day on the weekend during the summer.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I have an enormous bald faced hornet (?) nest under the second story eaves on my house. At this point, it's between the size of a basketball and a beach ball . I know I shouldn't have let it get to this point but I did and now I have a problem.

I rigged up a small bellows duster on the end of a pole and dusted the nest with Delta Dust for 5-10 minutes at about dawn on Saturday and Sunday morning. I was concentrating on getting enough dust on the entrance that it would be unavoidable for any insect coming/going. It's hard to tell how much I actually got on the nest, but I think I the entire entrance was white when I was done. The plan is to kill as much of the hive with the dust as I can and then climb up and cut the nest off the house (yes I have a bee suit I can use).

Today there are a few of them dead on the ground under the nest and caked in dust, but not much of a decrease in overall activity of the nest. Do I need to just go ham and cake the thing in dust? Try to dust the inside of the nest through the entrance?

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Aug 21, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I've never used dust application for anything other than ground wasps. I'd be hosing that nest down with Stryker 54. From a distance.

Trickortreat
Oct 31, 2020
What are the most effective ways to do termite prevention? I live in Texas where they are a real thing, but I'm trying to decide between paying a company to lay out the bait stations, paying more to have them dig a trench and pour chemicals in, or DIY (probably not for me owing to the liability if I don't do it correctly).

Revitalized
Sep 13, 2007

A free custom title is a free custom title

Lipstick Apathy
How long do wasps hang around after their nest has been sprayed?

I think they tried to start a nest above my front door, so I called the HOA guy, and apparently he came by to spray them yesterday morning. The nest appears to be abandoned but I still see some wasps hanging around in the general area.

I'm honestly no expert, but I thought maybe they're yellowjackets based on the bright yellow I saw when one zipped by me and that their nest remnant looks like a downward facing honeycomb the size of a golfball.

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Trickortreat posted:

What are the most effective ways to do termite prevention? I live in Texas where they are a real thing, but I'm trying to decide between paying a company to lay out the bait stations, paying more to have them dig a trench and pour chemicals in, or DIY (probably not for me owing to the liability if I don't do it correctly).
The best is poison the earth under and around your house for decades with chlordane. But that's illegal now, so second best is both bait stations and trenching. Are you on the gulf coast/east Texas where Formosan termites are an issue, or is it only subterranean in your area? Trench, drill piers or under slab and treat, and use bait stations for monitoring is the best you can do. Bait stations also aren't really 'bait' stations in that they do not attract termites. Termites forage randomly and so have to run into the bait station, which are usually only every 10' or so (but termites also forage broadly so it's fairly likely that they will run into one if they are active in the area). They also have to be monitored-when termites are detected eating the 'bait' it is swapped out for poison which they take back to the main colony and (hopefully) that will kill the colony. A third option which is better in new construction than existing construction (but may still be viable if you're on a crawl space) is treating all exposed wood with a boric acid solution like boracare.

Absolutely do not do this yourself. Not because it's all that hard, but because the reason you get a termite company to do it is to get a repair bond where if you get termites, they will fix the damage. If the cheaper company doing bait stations will still give you a repair bond, hey, let them-it's their problem. If neither company is offering a repair bond is only offering a retreatment bond, I would go with trench/drench treatment with fipronil. Termite companies are also shady af so watch out and keep every scrap of paperwork you ever get from them because your lawyers may need it one day. I unfortunately have experience with Termite Law, but I also learned a whole lot about termites in the process :science:

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