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Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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I recently picked up a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k printer and after a couple failed prints I've been getting some very solid results!





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Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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The Baumann posted:

Those all came out really nice! Are those models presupported?

The rats were presupported, everything else I used autosupports with some small additions wherever I thought they'd need them.

Does anyone have advice on how to properly scale models? If they have test models that are in scale with certain games that would be very helpful, the rats are much bigger than 28mm.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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aldantefax posted:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2646818

Try this calibration model out for size?

Test calibration is moving along but I might just start printing stuff and see how it goes. 0.1 layer height is somewhat disastrous. 0.2 is mediocre. Trying 0.3 layer height now at 215C with 25mm/s speed and we'll see if I can print one of these drat cats without any noticeable blemishes in the corners.

I will! I tried using some other models for reference by printing these goblins



They're a tiny bit too big in comparison to D&D minis, maybe they'd work better size-wise as hobgoblins, but I love the way they look! They're a little faceted in some areas but considering the STLs were free and there's 20+ poses and configurations, I can't complain.

Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Apr 2, 2021

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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does anyone have any good base STLs they can share? I want to start printing some bases but I haven't had any luck finding solid, varied bases for different terrains (for free that is)

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Springfield Fatts posted:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4789742

Here's a quick one that's sized 32mm rounds but you could rescale. I'm sure digging around some search terms on thingiverse could find others. If you want blank bases you could easily mock up anything you need in tinkercad. I made a movement tray in like 10 minutes.

Awesome, I'll add these to the collection! I may put up a big Google Drive of all the STLs I've collected so far just to keep track of everything.

Had the day off so I spent it printing out some minis and I finished painting some bandits and goblins! I'm impressed with both, but the goblins in particular (like almost everything from that creator) are awesome. They don't have the smoothest detail, but there's over 20 differently posed models of just these specific types of goblins alone, not to mention his orcs, skaven, and more. You could probably make an entire AOS army just with the stuff he has available, and his sculpts are all free!

I'm trying to collect every miniature I would need for a Lost Mines of Phandelver game I plan to run after I get my vaccine, so these will help fill in for the hobgoblins (they might be a touch too big and well-equipped for regular goblins) and redbrand ruffians.


Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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The Baumann posted:

This is what I’ve been using. I don’t print a ton on the resin printer so i don’t use a ton of resin but I’m still more comfortable using this stuff. It’s also not nearly as bad if you get it on your skin which I like.

Do you have a link for the brand you use? I’m currently using elegoo resin but wouldn’t mind switching to something a bit safer.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Awesome, I'm trying to minimize the danger to myself and my partner (her studio is close to where I keep the printer) so I'll probably be switching to this resin and I'm getting an air purifier for the area. At nearly double the price of what I'm paying now, it's still significantly cheaper than buying minis.

I've been on a printing/painting marathon since I've had this long weekend. I'm gearing up for a Lost Mines of Phandelver game and I want a model for every creature in the campaign.

Here's what I've painted so far. I'm doing mostly quick paint jobs using contrast paints, but some things I'm putting a bit more effort into. The goblins I finished in about 2 hours, giant spider in about 15 minutes, bandits in about an hour, ogre in about 2 hours, zombie and nothic in about 10 minutes.






Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Toebone posted:

I got an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro last Christmas and have been printing a ton of minis, I didn't realize we had a thread for it.

Here's some of the minis I've printed:










Hell yeah these are rad!

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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I was a little wary of this sculpt but it actually painted up pretty nice!

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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I picked up the elegoo curing station for $60 and an ultrasonic cleaner for $40, both on Amazon. I love them both, though they are admittedly small volume-wise.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Verisimilidude posted:

I've been really busy this weekend.







x-post from the minipainting thread

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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mllaneza posted:

I am now the proud owner of a Phrozen Mini 4K resin printer. It's an easy setup, and ventilation was just a matter or pointing the printer exhaust at my airbrush fume hood. My first batch of three runs was mostly successful. I had some issues with the base plates not adhering, fixed with sanding the build plate, and some where I got a base plate but nothing past that. Still, I got 13 nice prints of counts-as WH40K Imperial Guard from the Azadi Death Front Kickstarter. I'm sure I can work out the print reliability issues by adjusting slicing settings and resins. The quality of the prints is amazing, so I'm happy already.







Nice! I got the same printer, currently printing at 0.035 layer height with 3s for layer time and 40-45s for base time. I have far fewer failed prints now!

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Does anyone have good recs for complete/mostly complete printable armies for games like 40k and fantasy/aos? I want to start a new printing project after this is done and it would be great to have a fully printed army

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Highly recommending water curing! Basically you take a clear glass jar, fill it with water, put the minis inside and cure it as you normally would, though you only need to do it for half the time. The UV light bounces around and refracts due to the glass and water, and you end up with a really well-cured piece that isn't over-cured.

This works especially well with water washable resin, which I'm currently using. Definitely worth giving a shot if you have an old glass jar laying around! I put my curing light right on top and it works great.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Verisimilidude posted:



Finished this model I think (except for some kind of varnish, but I'll hold off until I finish a few more). Really happy with the glow effect but I can't seem to capture it effectively on camera, it's much more noticeable in person since the blue of the coat and the glow of the blade are very different saturation levels and tones.

X-post from the mini painting thread. Unfortunately it's hard to not get those pock marks on the base rims, but I'm ok with it.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Electric Hobo posted:

Looking good! Do you snip or cut the supports off? I've had much better results by cutting them off with a scalpel, so it doesn't shatter.. It also seems like an odd place for supports on a base, unless it's printed with the figure as a single part.
I'm not an expert on supports at all, though.

these were the presupports from the stls I found. I may just print them flat in the future but I've already printed about 50 of them so at this point it's a theme lol

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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lilljonas posted:

New to 3D printing, and I've been searching for hours but can't figure this out:

I want to buy 3D models of modern weapons that I can print and then use for my own sculpting.

I can find way too detailed 3D models for computer games. I can find STL files that I'm not allowed to use commercially even if I buy them. I can find very poorly detailed files for free. But I can't for the life of me find a bog standard AKM in 1/56. What am I doing wrong? Any ideas where I should look?

If you can’t find something free on the various sites available then you may need to commission an artist to make one for you, or learn to make one yourself!

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Verisimilidude posted:

Printed and painted a dwarf priestess for a D&D for newbies game I'm running



Feminine faces still don't feel super good to me. Just need to practice more, but overall I'm happy with the result!



x-post from the mini-painting thread. This was an excellent free print but it has a strange printing issue, a line that seems to go all the way around her head. You can see part of it just around her lips, but it continues all the way around. After painting it's much less noticeable, but you can still see it if you're looking for it. Not sure why it happened, everything seemed fine based on the file, the angle of the print and supports. I printed another one of these and it doesn't have the same issue.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Verisimilidude posted:





Printed and painted this halfling rogue for my D&D group. She's very small, and printed weirdly so the detail on her front isn't super well defined. I repainted her once already but I'm happy with the result. Unfortunately I put a Vallejo matte varnish on her and it slightly tinted her white, so I'm going to hold off on varnishing the other two models in the party.

x-post from the mini-painting thread. I used the pre-supported version and unfortunately they set her up to print facing the build plate, so her front is simply less-detailed than it should be. I reprinted her but the scale was off, so I stuck with this one and tried my best to get the paint job to overcome the limited detail.

If a model comes pre-supported but it's facing the build plate, support it yourself facing away from the plate! The detail will be much better.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Shaman Tank Spec posted:

For the future, resin supports come off REAL easy and neatly if you put the model in warm water (doesn't even have to be hot, just nice and warm) before removing them. Under a warm stream of water they just scrape off with a fingernail with zero fuss or muss.

Overall that is looking insanely good, though. What printer are you using again?

The ultrasonic cleaner I have tends to warm the cleaning solution as it goes, but I'll have to try just straight warm water next time!

Currently using a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Verisimilidude posted:



Decided to paint something new so I printed this Archvillain Games knight. I'm happy with the way the red came out and the face!

x-post from the mini painting thread

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Verisimilidude posted:





Finished this Archvillain Games mini I printed. Pretty happy overall with the end result, but there is a lot of visual noise going on. I like the idea of this swashbuckler journeying into a dungeon and by the end of it she's all tattered and dirty, but still keeping her cool.

My only complaint about these AV minis is how busy they are.

X-post from the mini-painting thread! This mini was a huge paint to print.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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I've been very busy printing and painting these Valour Korps models from The Makers Cult. They're easily the best prints I've ever had to work with. The models themselves are fantastic and their presupported models actually work straight out of the box for me. Plenty of other STL companies with presupported prints fail horribly or make really weird decisions like angling the front of the model towards the build plate. These always work perfectly (minor critical errors on my part) and look fantastic. Highly recommend them!

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Having a big issue. I'm not sure but I think there might be small holes in my FEP. My print failed again so I did a complete cleaning of the vat, and noticed that the LCD screen has small bits of dried resin on it, each about the size of a pin head. I can't spot any holes through the FEP, so it's entirely possible it got there during another cleaning. Any recommended ways to fix this problem? I'd like to clean the resin that's currently on the screen first, then maybe try another print to see if there's actually holes in the FEP.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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InternetJunky posted:

What printer are you using? Next steps are going to depend on if it's a monochrome screen or older style.

Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k with a monochrome screen

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Crisis averted! I gave everything a thorough cleaning and it seems to work fine now. Had some successful prints and everything.

Now if I wanted to modify a print (just slicing it down to the waist to fit in a tank hatch) what software would I need or what type of software would I need to search for? I'm on Mac currently.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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InternetJunky posted:

Just keep checking after each print to make sure you don't have a leak. I just lost a Mars2 yesterday because of a hole in the FEP. Changing the FEP is much easier and cheaper than waiting for a new screen.

As for modifying the file, for what you want to do the easiest option is Meshmixer. There is a "plane cut" feature that would be perfect for what you want to do.

I checked again and it seems to be working fine! Also I used Meshmixer at your suggestion and it did exactly what I needed it to do. Thanks for the recommendation!

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Verisimilidude posted:

Finished my 500pt Imperial Guard list. Everything was 3d printed on a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k and painted over the last two weeks using speed painting techniques for the infantry. I used zenithal priming, underpainting and contrast paints to paint everything here except the metals and camo on the tank and shields. The infantry worked out to about 20 minutes per model, the bullgryns took about 3 hours, and the tank took about 3 hours as well.



Overall cost of STL files was $50, total cost of resin was about $20. Really happy to have finished an army for the first time ever, even if it's only 500 points.

Gonna x-post this here since everything was printed. 3d printing is the future, and I honestly can't justify buying normal models any more because of it.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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My models appeared on this new video by 3D Printed Tabletop! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djumZlYSJjE

I kind of wish he asked first, but I appreciate the recognition.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Does anyone know of any 3D printable heavy gear minis? That’s the current game at our flgs and I’d like to give it a shot

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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The Baumann posted:

Does anyone have any recommendations for primer that will work with resin? I’ve been using army painter spray primer but I’m switching over to priming with an airbrush and I’ve heard some primers don’t adhere well to resin

Resins from moulds will have a release agent on them that can prevent paint and primer from adhering to them. You'll have to wash them with soapy water to remove it.

Resin models from 3d printing won't have a release agent on them and in my experience can be primed as soon as they're cured. I've never heard of specific types of resin not taking primer well, unless they're coated with release agent.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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The Baumann posted:

I figured they may have been talking about forge world stuff cause I’ve never had a problem but they also mentioned a type of primer I don’t use so I figured better check. I have some generic minis I printed off as tests so I’ll test anything on them first before I start working on actual paint jobs

I prime with an airbrush and the two I've used (Stynlerez and Vallejo Mecha) both worked very well on resin prints. I'm sure rattlecan primers should work fine as well, so you should be all good!

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Currently at second place in the makers cult painting competition. If you can please vote! (For me, buttcheeksio)

https://www.patreon.com/posts/54436639

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Any recs on PLA or other filament printers for printing terrain? Was about to buy a set of terrain and realized for the same price I could just get a printer.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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I printed and painted a dumpster

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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BlackIronHeart posted:

Cute dumpster, where'd you get the STL?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4819657

I just printed it without supports which is why it looks a bit janky, and since it's resin I couldn't print the rail, but that's easily replaced with a thin metal rod if you want it to open and close. I had to scale it down to 60% to fit Infinity, and even then it's probably a smidge too big. I'd probably drop it down to 50-55%.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Anyone have recommendations for 3D printable necromunda models? Looking to print up an Escher gang but I’m not inspired by what I’m finding.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Looking for patreons and resources for Necromunda terrain, mostly scatter and some thematic stuff like ratty houses and outposts.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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Does anyone know of a 3d printable hopping vampire miniature? Preferably 28mm scale.

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Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

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My flgs is looking to get into Star Wars Legion. Is it feasible to print an entire army?

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