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My local pickapart is infested with them. I can't imagine you'd have any trouble finding one.
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Mar 12, 2021 04:30
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Yeah, I'm hoping I can pick up something local, but worst case there are tons at the breakers down in Rancho Cordova. First though, I need to do something about the well that I am presently repelling into.   I'm hoping that's just my 3-4 clutches and steels. Welp, committed now.  Most of these parts were replaced when the trans was rebuilt in 2017... The accumulator looks like it was upgraded, and the plate has reinforced checkball seats. The harness looked a little darker than I'd expect, and one of the pillow switch seals stuck to the valve body (and is warping).  I can put the seal back in place, but I'm thinking I should probably replace that.
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Mar 13, 2021 00:28
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Boys who love boys
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Went rippin' n' tearing after dinner last night. Pump was a sonovabitch to remove- I think I might have missed pulling an o-ring on the imput shaft   The reverse drum and clutches look like I would expect. Band is in good shape too.  To paraphrase the podcast with slides I was listening to while I worked on this: Well, Here's My Problem...  Input drum clutches, extra crispy. Hopefully the new clutches and some scotchbrite on the steels will get me back in D again.
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Mar 13, 2021 18:14
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monsterzero posted:
mmmm toasty. There's your problem. Probably worth shuffling the steels as well. monsterzero posted:
fwiw that's the front-most reverse apply clutch, there's a second reverse (lo/rev)apply clutch alllll the way in the back transmission body. It can be a bear to remove due to the circlip having hard access. I rebuilt a bunch of these boxes off this diagram alone, worth having for a reference:  Have a bonus cutaway of how it all works together to pull botes 
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Mar 13, 2021 19:22
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Thanks for those diagrams CSB! To be honest, I have to hold my hands in front of the monitor and peek through my fingers and only look a fraction of the diagrams at a time lest I lose my mind like I'm reading the Necronomicon. cursedshitbox posted:fwiw that's the front-most reverse apply clutch, there's a second reverse (lo/rev)apply clutch alllll the way in the back transmission body. It can be a bear to remove due to the circlip having hard access. Well, the good news is I'm not going to mess with that. I run out of parts right here:  These are those parts, laid out from left to right as in the diagram   The overrun clutches look alright, but t the forward clutches get worse as you work right and the 3/4 are destroyed. The little bit of friction material left on the clutches can be smudged right off. Looks like a bit of bluing on the steels, but it has been helpfully polished off.  The inside of the assembly shows signs of temporary use as a waste-oil furnace. Luckily nothing else seems to show obvious sign of excessive hear or inadequate lubrication. cursedshitbox posted:mmmm toasty. There's your problem. Probably worth shuffling the steels as well. As in, change their order or replace? I was going to clean them and sand them with red scotchbrite pads. I'll check em for flatness and hot spotting when I do. Always grateful for any pointers or things to check.
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Mar 14, 2021 19:33
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monsterzero posted:
Shuffle the order. Outside in, etc. If you have a good set of verniers you can gauge em all, the ones against the piston and drum usually bite first, with the inner ones later. If they have gotten hot enough to blue, don't reuse. Just get new ones.
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Mar 14, 2021 22:39
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Update: Trucks are bullshit and I would rather just walk everywhere. Not really, but I definitely found the hardest way to do things while waiting for a new set of steels. Starting with the axle carrier bearing, every guide I found pretty much said 'use a press'. I am a shadetree hack so I disregarded that advice and tried to blue wrench/penetrating fluid/hammer the fucker off. This is not feasible due to design, so I've been hacksawing, cripping away crumbling rubber and now I'm cutting the bearing's outer race with a dremel.  Hopefully when I get the inner race exposed I can just blast it with my $90 fcaw race remover and be done. In all this I've totally hosed up the teflon-like coating on the slip shaft and splines though, so awesome leak grease whatever. The u-joints were also a complete son-of-a-bitch. I guess I managed to pinch the yokes together with the autozone rental tool, because I blew up two end caps trying to get the c-clip land inside the yoke far enough to set the retainer, and the joints are tight in that direction. Cool cool. Hopefully I can get my wife to hold the shaft while I hammer the yokes w/ a drift to get them moving. In better news, the steels and pressure switch manifold arrived. I rebuilt the input drum (thanks again for that diagram!) without trouble. Now I'm ready to put the transmission back together, but faced with the 'where do these seals go' stage of the rebuild. This was a explicit 'bare minimum for 3/4 slip' kit, so I think I should avoid leftover parts. Kit was obviously intended for shops who know poo poo from shinola, so it was helpfully un labeled. Most of the parts were obvious, but there were quite a few I do not recall encountering. Parts:  Starting with the easy, 4 go on the input shaft, as does 5 I believe (old one was brown don't know if that maters) 10 is the seal on the tailhousing (included as an anti go-back measure?) 11 and 12 go in the pump cover I thought 6 was for the filter tube, but no longer think that. 7, 8 and 9 look roughly solenoid sized (I have not removed solenoids from the valve body to compare and I have not seen 1, 2 or 3. They're square seals (except 2). Any ideas? As I mentioned I haven't taken the solenoids out of the pump body, and I also haven't disassembled the pump. I'm kind of thinking that since my truck is a piece of poo poo and leaks a ton I should just touch as little as possible and send it. Does it look like there's anything in this kit I absolutely shouldn't ignore?
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Mar 20, 2021 18:40
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1-3 look like apply piston inner seals. referencing the diagram, 331, 332, 334, 340. Assy. 564 for the input drum. if two are identical it could be 538 or 179 inside the pump 886 for the shell, 338 for lo/reverse clutch. 4: you're right. ref 178. 5 380? 6: input shaft seal to output shaft. 475 in the diagram. 7,8,9 look like solenoid seals to me too. 10,11,12 are what you say they are. 034, 070, 074.
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Mar 20, 2021 19:17
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cursedshitbox posted:1-3 look like apply piston inner seals. cursedshitbox posted:if two are identical it could be 538 or 179 inside the pump cursedshitbox posted:5 380? Yep, 380. Thanks for IDing 475! This one has me scratching my head now, so I'm probably going to disassemble the input drum. During the take apart, I came away with two thrust bearings. 229 on the input shaft and what I think was 235... I definitely didn't remove the c-clip 881 but I'll double check.
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Mar 20, 2021 20:13
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My brother has an 02 Silverado and is thinking about putting headers and dual exhaust on it, is it even worth it? I know V8s tend to do well with headers but I don’t know if it’s worth the cost these days
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Mar 20, 2021 20:14
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No personal experience but these trucks seem to respond very well to bolt-ons - when they're tuned. Worst case you could probably get a set of 'street' headers and a catback for One Stimulus and look cool/sound cool.
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Mar 20, 2021 20:46
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Well he's already got a single into a Flowmaster then split to duals out the back and it sounds cool, but he's thinking a set of headers and true duals will give him some more HP and better MPG with a tune. He's already got a K&N intake on it too, but he's just wondering if the overall cost of doing that will be worth the results.
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Mar 20, 2021 21:41
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Not enough hp to be noticeable. A cam and tune will always be the best bang for the buck on the motor, but requires more effort to install.
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Mar 21, 2021 00:04
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Will it still be relatively "streetable" with a cam tho.... Like it won't have a weird idle or anything will it? And will mpg suffer as well?
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Mar 21, 2021 00:26
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Nothing is actually gonna boost mileage on an 800. And streetability depends on exactly what cam gets slammed in.
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Mar 21, 2021 00:40
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I've got one weird trick to improve my GMT800's MPGeees.... It's calling AAA for a tow.. The manic early-project energy is gone. Now I'm running on pure, high-test gently caress-this-thing. Got the clutches and drums back together. Watched a couple teflon ring installs and said gently caress it. Left the old ones in place (they seem okay and I'd probably just gently caress em up/need to by scarfed seals). Installed the pump, installed the valve body and then realized the pressure control solenoid blocked the harness connector. Didn't realize the solenoid is only held in by the external bracket, so I pulled the valve body again, breaking the 3-2 solenoid in the process.  Luckily I did this at 7:45p so I still had a chance to find one at the Autozone on the far side of town. Slapped the rest of the 4l60e together last night, with no unexpected leftover parts.  Putting the transmission back in place was a little sketchier than removing it. Came close to having it slide off my sketch rear end motorcycle jack + scrap lumber setup. got 5 of 8 bolts in, pinned the cross member so it's safe for now. I'll gently caress with it some more this weekend.
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Mar 26, 2021 21:38
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Elmnt80 posted:Not enough hp to be noticeable. A cam and tune will always be the best bang for the buck on the motor, but requires more effort to install. Yeah. Having done longtubes on my LS1 C10 - they're worth a tiny bit, but the main thing is what they're worth when you start throwing more mods at it. On the plus side, they're loving cheap: 
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Mar 26, 2021 21:55
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I wish I could throw a cam, headers and a tune at this truck. I mean, if I ever crack an exhaust manifold, I'll probably pick up a set of Summit Truck headers because they're cheap and have CARB EO's- but as far as I can tell no camshaft satisfy the State of California and as soon as I touch the ECU (and the checksums no longer match) that's out too. Maybe if I could find a cam mild enough that it will set all the emissions monitors with the stock ECU, but that probably won't be a huge upgrade... IDK, that's a future thing. I need to read/talk to someone who knows about tuning ECUs (and resetting them to pass biannual smog checks) because I would like to do some non-emissions change (electric fans) that require a reprogram. In the meantime, yesterday I knocked out the hardest part of the job. Reinstalling the AT dipstick. Holy hell, gently caress that. I had to call my buddy over because I knew trying to have my wife jiggle from above while I worked under the truck would probably land me on the couch for a week. So far the MVP of this job has been my 4l60e installation tool  (I should probabalby buy a 24" or 36" extension) but this friendly neighbor who has come to check on my progress has been a close second. 
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Mar 28, 2021 17:47
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monsterzero posted:I wish I could throw a cam, headers and a tune at this truck. I mean, if I ever crack an exhaust manifold, I'll probably pick up a set of Summit Truck headers because they're cheap and have CARB EO's- but as far as I can tell no camshaft satisfy the State of California and as soon as I touch the ECU (and the checksums no longer match) that's out too. I wonder if there's enough garbage in the ECU rom to be able to brute-force a valid checksum after a tune.
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Mar 28, 2021 18:31
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I wonder if there's enough garbage in the ECU rom to be able to brute-force a valid checksum after a tune. I'm imagining a config that runs great, passes smog, but the headlights are controlled by the passenger-side window switch. Well, everything's poo poo. Had some time yesterday so hosed around with the truck a bit. I picked up a double-flaring kit (HF, of course) but I can't get it to work for poo poo without using a bench vice (so not great for doing the work-on truck) and the shop didn't have flare nuts so I think I'm just going to score the trans cooler hard lines, jam the hose on and double-clamp. I'll put in some reference marks so I can tell if it's working loose in the future. I also went to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter and found I couldn't move either. The brain trust has informed me that this is hosed up and I might have killed the pump. I'll pull the fucker again later. Also, in non-truck related fuckery I just found out that California only sells poo poo-tier propane, so my new-last-year 5hp outboard is probably going to get hosed up by excess propylene in the mix. Cool, cool.
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Apr 1, 2021 22:04
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monsterzero posted:I'm imagining a config that runs great, passes smog, but the headlights are controlled by the passenger-side window switch. Well, since the TPMS is controlled there, why not? 
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Apr 1, 2021 23:15
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EVERYWHERE 
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Speed Engineering has a true-dual kit for these for not much more with an x-pipe. i'm going to pick up a cheaper elgin (bought the knockoff and it came hosed up so i sent it back), maybe do that, intake and tune. should be good for a solid 50. Have to be somewhat selective on the cams unless you change the converter.
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Apr 2, 2021 04:48
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Yep. I killed it again. One tab on the pump is broken, the other is just hosed up.
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Apr 4, 2021 01:50
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California has the right idea on a lot of stuff BUT A CHECKSUM COMPARISON!? HOLY gently caress.
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Apr 4, 2021 02:22
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Split my pump in to pieces / this is a hosed up part  Yeah, I definitely had the TC slip off while I was gorillia-ing the transmission into place.  Interesting wear. This was ~12k and then 2 miles on no fluid.  Clearly, the pump did not like being run dry. I actually checked the line pressure before I pulled the trans and it looked okay. I'm sure I wouldn't have gotten many more miles out of this if I had reinstalled the transmission successfully.  Another angle, and note the wear on the bushing. I think that means my lm7's crank is drooping. No surprise there.  This angle really shows the scoring. Not sure it'll buff out.  Other side looks better, there's still some scoring Back to CYOA time. A big part of me wants to just punt and buy a crate transmission from the autoparts store for $1500 because have low confidence in my half-assing this transmission back together again. The rest of me is a cheap gently caress who says to buy this cover...  ...because it's VIRUS PROTECTED and a new rotor but it's feeling like good money after bad. Like more than normal.
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Apr 14, 2021 02:24
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Keep throwing cheap parts at it for our entertainment. RIP Paul Walker posted:There are two types of people in the world: those who have been doused by a neverending downpour of automatic transmission fluid and those who have never done anything with an automatic transmission. I’ve never done anything with an automatic transmission and I need to flush the A440F in my FJ62. gently caress me.
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Apr 14, 2021 03:37
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monsterzero posted:
Its only $35! And also its your first time going through one of these, some small issues here and there are expected. Don't sweat it.
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Apr 14, 2021 03:39
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poo poo's on order. Hope the protective virus is something I've got antibodies for.
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Apr 14, 2021 19:31
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Good news, the viruses did their job and the pump parts arrived safely. I reassembled the rotor, vanes and slider:  I didn't have an alignment tool, or 36" worth of worm drive hose clamps so I just kind of eyeballed it. Got the transmission back up on it's tail...  ...jiggled the input shaft to settle the drums back down, installed the pump. Then as I was grabbing the separator plate I noticed this on the bench:  Cool cool. Did all the above steps again. Installed the valve body...  ...installed the solenoids and accumulator, connected the harness but I forgot to connect the shift linkage to the valve piston Holy poo poo I'm going to be so good at taking these apart and putting them back together when this thing explodes after 600miles. Got that straightened, installed the pan and tail piece. I'll install the servo, bellhousing and brackets tomorrow - and gently slam this poo poo back in the truck.
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Apr 24, 2021 04:42
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monsterzero posted:Holy poo poo I'm going to be so good at taking these apart and putting them back together when this thing explodes after 600miles. Hey that's how you become "the guy" with anything. Couple more rounds and you'll have 6 transmissions in your garage that could make 3 that work and have strong opinions to argue in parking lots while you're picking up another.
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Apr 24, 2021 23:02
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There's a guy on youtube that has great tear down and rebuilds of these and other transmissions with tips and tricks along the way too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLBe7CFWT3A
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Apr 25, 2021 01:02
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Applebees Appetizer posted:There's a guy on youtube that has great tear down and rebuilds of these and other transmissions with tips and tricks along the way too I’ll second this. Guy is phenomenal.
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Apr 25, 2021 04:39
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Yep. Watching that channel's vids helped me to believe that automatic transmissions aren't eldritch puzzleboxes. Installation #2 went a lot smoother. Not because I've learned a drat thing, but, well, like my shirt says:  Thank you CSB for parachuting in and helping me out (and for letting me gawk at your badass rig.) Dude's a force of nature and we had the transmission from bench to test drive in about three hours. Took it around the block, the trans shifted nicely. No leaks, no codes, no taking everything back apart because I forgot a step. Turns out the secret to easy shade tree wrenching is to call in a ringer. Thanks again CSB! After he left I drove the truck around a bit. Still shifting good after 20 miles, but there is an increasing vibration over 40-ish mph. Hopefully it's a flat spot on the tires from sitting, but I might have hosed up something in the driveline. Going back out in a bit to confirm no leaks overnight, then maybe get wild and take a load of trash to the dump. Figure a bed full of palm fronds will be a quick and painful way to determine fix/no fix.
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Apr 25, 2021 16:33
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Is that Ford driver also forklift certified?
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Apr 25, 2021 16:49
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Its csb so quite possibly.
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Apr 25, 2021 16:55
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monsterzero posted:
Happy to help! It was fun to wrench with a chill goon. No stripped or rounded out bolts or bloody knuckles. Super smooth sailing so to speak. seating the gearbox against the 5.3 under half an hour, nice thing well bedded in GM trucks. Shoot the joints with some fresh grease now that its all assembled, especially the joint at the differential that uses the strap style yoke. Did you retain the phasing between the two drivelines when the new ujoints were installed? Also might just be new ujoint things. The spicer joints on the farmtruck are very vocal about maintenance. Forklift shenanigans? Like 4L60s its been a while but yeah I got you fam  (both cars were mine, the E320 became parts to repower a 190E)
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Apr 25, 2021 18:04
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Dump run was a success! Overnight rains never came so I let my buddy know the dump run is on. That immediately cued the rain but it was just a brief shower and we were able to make it out to the dump and unload while things were still friendly to a RWD truck on street tires. Rain kicked up right as we were leaving the dump, so I know the gods of truckfuckling are smiling upon me. Truck ran good, trans didn't slip and the vibes were less noticeable with a load in the bed. Joints look to be in-phase, the mid-line slip yoke was keyed so I think I'm good there. I miiight have flipped the u-joint at the diff 180 because I'm a dumb rear end in a top hat who couldn't find his paint pen and tried to mark poo poo with a sharpie, so I'll probably give that a shot later when the ground is dry.
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Apr 25, 2021 18:48
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Proof of life:  I love going to the dump  Trucks been sitting covered in leaves and pollen so I took it to the coin wash. I have to go on rainy days because otherwise the owner runs me off for trashing the place with paint chips  Hmm, it's been about 70 miles... I should check for codes  Ok so normal.
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Apr 25, 2021 21:53
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Any common issues that causes these trucks to have detonation under hard acceleration? My brother is getting it in his truck now, and he runs high octane in it to help in the Florida heat. I told him to back off on flooring it until we can figure out what the problem is
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Apr 26, 2021 00:52
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Carbon buildup, maybe? Running a can of seafoam through the intake is cheap.
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Apr 26, 2021 01:31
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