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Not these trucks but every time I've gotten detonation it's always been either spark plugs, wires, or distributor/rotor.
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Apr 26, 2021 04:03
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Well after a bit of searching looks like knock sensor issues probably, which requires removing the intake manifold ugh I'll have to run the codes, hopefully that's not it https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/05/audible-spark-knock-complaints-on-1998-02-gm-engines/ Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Apr 26, 2021 |
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Apr 26, 2021 04:23
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Well after a bit of searching looks like knock sensor issues probably, which requires removing the intake manifold ugh I did this job on my Escalade a couple years back - it honestly wasn't too bad from what I remember. I was going to mention the bit about building an RTV dam and removing the rear seal, but it looks like you found that already. I'm sure you're planning on replacing them while you're in there (if you end up doing the job), but these engines are also known for lovely plastic intake manifold gaskets so make sure to get quality metal replacements and check the IM for warpage.
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Apr 26, 2021 05:03
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Any common issues that causes these trucks to have detonation under hard acceleration? lovely ignition, lovely gas. If its not detected, then the knock sensors are probably fucko'd. I'd rather do knock sensors than plugs if they haven't been done before. Those fuckin boots will be welded to the plugs.
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Apr 26, 2021 05:09
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Elmnt80 posted:lovely ignition, lovely gas. If its not detected, then the knock sensors are probably fucko'd. I won't even think about doing plugs anymore without a set of these handy. It's like cheating.
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Apr 26, 2021 05:14
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I chiseled the plug wire boots out with an exacto knife and anger. That was 75% of my time doing that job.
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Apr 26, 2021 05:16
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Knock sensors weren’t too bad. Messy job though cleaning under the intake manifold, but that’s more of a my-truck thing. Elmnt80 posted:
Heh heh... Guess what I’ve been dodging for 4 years
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Apr 26, 2021 05:59
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Boys who love boys
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Black88GTA posted:I won't even think about doing plugs anymore without a set of these handy. It's like cheating. Ooooh. These will come in handy. One of my cars has RF interference shielding for the plug wires and the brackets for it are sharp as gently caress. I've got one of those generic boot-puller plier things and it's useless.
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Apr 26, 2021 22:36
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Black88GTA posted:I won't even think about doing plugs anymore without a set of these handy. It's like cheating. Yep, got a set of those when I changed plugs on my Escalade. Those long reach pliers come in handy in a lot of other places, too.
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Apr 26, 2021 22:57
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EVERYWHERE 
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Flipped the driveshaft, and the vibrations at 40 are gone... there's a little something happening 55-65, but it's slight. I should probably pull wheels to inspect my brakes (did I put speed bleeders on this yet?) and rotate my tires. I'll see if that changes anything. It's nice having the driveline out of the garage. Figured I'd use the opportunity to fix the grille. It's held in place with clips by the fenders, plastic cams in the corners and one bolt with a big washer high and center. My clips are awol and the plastic cams have a lot of slop so this part where the grille is bolted to the truck flexes. Mine's cracking: https://i.imgur.com/vRV3R5O.mp4  Scuffing up the back side  Why yes I am a two pump chump  Allow the West 205 to age to a deep caramel before using / cloth is 1708 because I had a lot laying around.  Not my best layup... or clamp job
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Apr 27, 2021 05:28
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My grille is broken at the same spot on one side, and cracked on the other. Not ideal. I'm not sure how they are for the 800s, but LMC's repros for the 400s are not accurate. The bowtie mount is goofy as hell...look closely before buying if you decide to go that route.
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Apr 27, 2021 06:17
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Oh, if I need a new grille... or 
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Apr 27, 2021 06:57
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I'm breaking out in hives just seeing the 1708 cloth West System is expennnnsive but drat if it ain't handy once you know how to use it.
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Apr 27, 2021 13:58
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So how bad does the detonation wear on these motors, my brother seems to think it's not worth fixing. I told him he could possibly poo poo can the motor if he keeps driving it that way, especially if he's putting his foot in it like i know he likes to do
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Apr 27, 2021 14:25
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Replacing a knock sensor is a lot cheaper than buying a crate motor or replacing your pistons and getting the block machined. Edit: IF that's even the problem. Seafoam is $7.
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Apr 27, 2021 16:32
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 Didn't get great adhesion on the top, but the sides look good and that's what matters PEEL PORN  Looks alright  Just a little flash to clean up That bit should be bombproof now, so I'm sure my grille will break in new and exciting places (and I should buy clips for the fender parts so it's not so stressed).... Applebees Appetizer posted:So how bad does the detonation wear on these motors, my brother seems to think it's not worth fixing. How bad is it? Is his truck throwing any codes? I get slight pinging with high load/hot days/high rpm and a misfire or two randomly (any/all phases of driving) if I watch my scan tool but not enough to throw any DTCs. IIRC, when the knock sensors were pure rust, it did throw a code but didn't light the CEL. In my case it's easy to 'drive around' the pinging so I'm not worried, but if it's frequent... that can't be good. I did dump a can of Seafoam into it but that didn't change anything. I should really pull the plugs and take a look (I'm a hair worried one cyl will be steam polished) but I should pick up some wires for reasons mentioned above. Shame the ACDelco wires are boring gray, it'd be a lot cooler if they were red.
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Apr 27, 2021 18:02
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Dumping seafoam in the gas tank is a long-term or preventative thing. If you want to actually clean crud out, get the aerosol can (it's worth it) and spray it right down the throttle body after the engine's warmed up. You might have to modulate it to avoid stalling, but it's not difficult. Do this until the billowing clouds of horrible smoke stop.
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Apr 27, 2021 18:53
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Yeah, 100%. I used the aerosol can in the throttle body. It smoked less than the old way of poring/sucking Seafoam/GM Top Engine cleaner through a vacuum line. I'm also of the use most the can and then let is stall, and sit for 10 persuasion. That always made teh best smoke. Didn't make an appreciable difference on how the truck ran. ETA: I don't use seafoam in the gas tank, but I do add Techron concentrate on the Hank Hill schedule 
monsterzero fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 19:06
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Godholio posted:Dumping seafoam in the gas tank is a long-term or preventative thing. If you want to actually clean crud out, get the aerosol can (it's worth it) and spray it right down the throttle body after the engine's warmed up. You might have to modulate it to avoid stalling, but it's not difficult. Do this until the billowing clouds of horrible smoke stop. Years ago I was working at a garage and we had this Buick Lesabre come in. The type with the hood that opens forward. It was running horribly. I'm not sure what made the owner finally decide to bring it in but this was a problem that had likely not just cropped up in a few days. Anywho it was running like poo poo and after checking coil packs and plugs and injectors and all sorts of other poo poo, we sucked several cans of combustion chamber cleaner right in to the intake manifold from the power brake booster line. The gas station attendant didn't like the clouds of smoke coming out of the little flap in the bay door where we put the exhaust hose, but after..... I don't recall, 6 or 7 cans the thing finally stopped running like a lovely bag of poo poo covered dicks. Customer was happy, the end.
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Apr 27, 2021 20:08
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Going to need to rename my truck THE CONTENT MACHINE. Drove it into the office and filled the tank on the way because I was feeling positive. Drove home after taking care of business and when I hopped out I could smell coolant... Popped the hood, and took a look. poo poo's wet, and not in a basted with ATF five months ago kinda way.  This is the pass side frame rail, beneath the coolant reservoir - AC compressor and below looks to be wet. I tasted it, bitter AF. The coolant reservoir level was a little below where I left it, and I took a look at the overflow tube:  Ya boy is wet. In lighter news, I probably should have opened an incognito tab last night: 
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Apr 27, 2021 23:40
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Current status: Three cry-laughing emoji https://i.imgur.com/0N7piW9.mp4 Oh drippy https://i.imgur.com/64rzDQj.mp4 Well there's my problem  Problem solved!
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Apr 28, 2021 01:43
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I love easy solutions.
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Apr 28, 2021 01:54
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Uh, you may want to reconnect that steam hose. Iirc its mildly important for the engine management.
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Apr 28, 2021 03:43
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I thought it was just a warming loop for the throttle body, and it's never cold here so fuckit, but I guess the steam tubes prevent air pockets in the heads. You're right, I should fix that. I'm a little concerned because I think I remember the throttle body being plugged with the same clay-red poo poo that filled half the radiator when I pulled the intake a couple years ago. I ran the truck for a minute with the radiator side plugged as pictured and the other side left open, no coolant came out. Another mystery for a future episode.
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Apr 28, 2021 04:27
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monsterzero posted:clay-red poo poo that filled half the radiator Ah, Dex-Cool. Love it.
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May 1, 2021 15:48
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So I went to run the codes in my brothers truck and it keeps saying "ecu not connected" and he tells me the same thing happened when he tried having the codes read at a autozone. Something wrong with the port possibly?
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May 1, 2021 20:44
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I've put about 150mi on the trucks since reinstalling the transmission. So far, so good. No slipping in gear and the shifts all feel good. Already taken it to the dump three times, and I'll go again tomorrow AM. I guess my friends yards were hurting from the truck being down.  That being the case, I'm switching into fix-what-ain't-broken mode:  I've been avoiding touching the plugs/wires for four years. I wonder what I'll find. Applebees Appetizer posted:So I went to run the codes in my brothers truck and it keeps saying "ecu not connected" and he tells me the same thing happened when he tried having the codes read at a autozone. Something wrong with the port possibly? Does the driver-side cigarette lighter on the dash provide 12v?
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May 2, 2021 02:21
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This. On a lot of cars, the OBD2 port doesn't get power if the lighter socket isn't working. I've run into it on 3 different cars (Honda, Nissan, Saturn).
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May 2, 2021 15:14
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monsterzero posted:That being the case, I'm switching into fix-what-ain't-broken mode: I just did the belts/pulleys on mine last year after the bearings started to squeal. Super easy job. I just used the pliers yesterday to pick up a plastic piece that fell down into the engine bay of the Passat. For plug wire removal on a GMT800, remember to twist and twist and twist the boot before pulling. That poo poo gets locked on there solid.
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May 2, 2021 18:16
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monsterzero posted:I thought it was just a warming loop for the throttle body, and it's never cold here so fuckit, but I guess the steam tubes prevent air pockets in the heads. You're right, I should fix that. There is an absolute poo poo-ton of debate on this topic on the various LS boards, not helped by the fact that GM uses different steam hole setups by year. Early LSx has all four plumbed, later ones have the rear steam holes plugged and just the front two connected, etc. If the system is fully bled it shouldn't really matter whether the steam lines are hooked up or plugged, but I don't see any reason not to connect it back in. Options are to either drill and tap the water pump for a fitting and run hose between the steam lines and the pump, or get a T-adapter for the upper radiator hose and run the line to there. I have the latter on my LS swap and as a side bonus it's easy to disconnect to help bleed the system.
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May 2, 2021 19:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:There is an absolute poo poo-ton of debate on this topic on the various LS boards, not helped by the fact that GM uses different steam hole setups by year. Has there been any GM engineer that has stuck his head up on this? When I had a mid-'90s Olds Aurora with the 4.0 Northstar, there was talk about a low oil pressure warning that ended up being a sensor issue (the Northstar idled with a ridiculously low oil pressure, but was fine at operating rpms). A verified engineer popped into the forums and pretty much said "don't worry about the low oil pressure warning at idle, it was a miscalibrated sensor" and that proved to be true, over time.
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May 2, 2021 20:08
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Oh man I used to love the Aurora and was tempted a few times but GM. Was it a fun/good car?
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May 2, 2021 20:47
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meatpimp posted:Has there been any GM engineer that has stuck his head up on this? When I had a mid-'90s Olds Aurora with the 4.0 Northstar, there was talk about a low oil pressure warning that ended up being a sensor issue (the Northstar idled with a ridiculously low oil pressure, but was fine at operating rpms). A verified engineer popped into the forums and pretty much said "don't worry about the low oil pressure warning at idle, it was a miscalibrated sensor" and that proved to be true, over time. If they have, I haven't seen it. Downside of the LS engine platform's massive popularity is the obscene amount of noise. You'll get completely contradictory statements from people who both swear the thing they did fixed the problem caused by the thing the other person did.
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May 2, 2021 21:37
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Oh man I used to love the Aurora and was tempted a few times but GM. Was it a fun/good car? I loved my Aurora. I bought it for next to nothing with over 150k miles on it in the early '00s. The 4.0 version of the Northstar motor was fantastic (other than the phantom low oil pressure warning that would pop up in the summer at idle). The car was solid, loaded with features, and still looks modern today. I think GM gimped the 4.0 Northstar with a restrictive intake, because I cobbled up a different one and on top of awesome induction noise, it was noticeably more powerful. On the Northstar -- I have had 3 of them and they have all been great, dependable, strong motors. A '93 STS, a '96 Aurora and an '02 Deville. The biggest repair I had on any of them was a water pump on the Deville. They were all great cars.
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May 3, 2021 00:14
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Got lazy because it's been extra windy lately and I can't be outside for five minutes without a whole tree blowing into my eyes. Took advantage of a lull the other afternoon and pulled the plugs.  I see at least one  Left side, 2nd from bottom - ground electrode looks wet.   Truck had been off for a couple days, and the plug remained wet in the garage so I doubt it's fuel. Could be oil, given the extra smoo on the body, and the gray-er insulator. This one is representtitve of the other seven:  I think that looks pretty good. Maybe a hint of preignition (weld splatter on the ground tip?) I suspect the PO did these 15-30k ago, and I won't see any change from replacing the plugs. I did downgrade from Iridium to Double Plat, so maybe I can flip these to offset the expense. Plug wires looked good as well. 5 came willingly, two had the boot separate from the crimp/wire but put up no fight and one boot fell apart and I had to pick the pieces off the plug with tools. Glad I put this off until I had wires on hand. While the plugs were out I checked the compression. I was doing this solo, and had to run from the ignition to the engine bay to read the pressure but all cyls were over 200psi. I tried to look into the cyls, but it turns out my $17 ebay endoscope is garbage and I couldn't see poo poo. I did learn from this, however, that my LM7 will start and idle with one bank of ignition coils disconnected. Fucker wants to live.
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May 9, 2021 21:09
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monsterzero posted:I think that looks pretty good. Maybe a hint of preignition (weld splatter on the ground tip?) I suspect the PO did these 15-30k ago, and I won't see any change from replacing the plugs. I did downgrade from Iridium to Double Plat, so maybe I can flip these to offset the expense. People pay money for used spark plugs? 
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May 9, 2021 21:46
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So i've been DDing this for a little over a year now 2013 F-150 STX rwd  We originally bought this as not a week was going by where we didn't need to rent or borrow a huge vehicle to transport something to the project house. But we sold that house and since August the biggest thing this truck has hauled is a IKEA bookshelf. It just hit 135K and the suspension is beat so I've been exploring options. Other than airbags, what can I do to improve the ride comfort? I'm also leaning towards the idea of a static drop after seeing that mentioned in another thread.
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May 9, 2021 21:47
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Advent Horizon posted:People pay money for used spark plugs? Lol no, but with the way precious metals are going... that reminds me there was a rebate on the plugs I should file. Rhyno posted:Other than airbags, what can I do to improve the ride comfort? I'm also leaning towards the idea of a static drop after seeing that mentioned in another thread. No idea, but a 2/4" drop usually makes a RWD truck look pretty good.
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May 9, 2021 22:30
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Rhyno posted:So i've been DDing this for a little over a year now Sell it and make a mint off it, buy something more fun
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May 9, 2021 22:33
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It's not worth the effort to sell it and buy another car, we're about to buy the wife a new car and I don't want two payments. I'm content to keep dding it, it needs a suspension refresh anyways so I may as well go for comfort.
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May 9, 2021 22:40
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