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Sorry about the trans, I've killed a few 60's with a combination of miles and enthusiastic driving but its always a this poo poo is going to get expensive feeling. You might as well try unfucking it yourself if you're feeling brave. If you give up on that drivetrain make it a 1500HD, a friend has over 200k on his farm truck with the 6.0/4l80 and he is only looking to replace it because of the rust. Godholio posted:Last year I bought a GMT400 for camping purposes...a K2500 Suburban. Yes, it's TBI. No, I don't care. Now that I've replaced the fuel pump (the old one was pushing about 1/3 of spec) TBI will push enough fuel to support any stupid idea I have for the 454. I'm super glad I've got a 4L80E though...the internet is not kind to the 4L60E and I had my fill of transmission issues with Ford AXODEs. I'm looking at moving to one of those next but I want the MPFI 454, fuel pumps and alternators are all that seem to go on those things if you can keep the rust off. Chevys have been getting uglier every year since then, I think its a conspiracy to sell more GMCs. Having towed with other trucks before the 5.3/4l60 with a 3.73 sucks, I think the 5.7 was a better towing motor but that truck had a 5spd so its not a fair comparison.
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Feb 24, 2021 04:15
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 07:11 |
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I was using my burban (2003) to drag some heavy things around a few weeks ago and now the rear end doesn't feel quite right, when I hit decent sized bumps at speed it shifts a bit side to side. Before I start throwing parts at it what would the likely cause be? Nothing appears to be damaged and there is no clunking, the shocks were replaced last summer with some KYBs. Its got about 230k miles on it and is in decent shape for a Wisconsin vehicle. Do I just need to throw new upper and lower control arms and a new track bar back there or is there any troubleshooting I can do first? Edit: added year SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 20:45
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Get a roll of plastic sheeting in the paint section, make sure its thick enough. You can use a double stick tape after cleaning the areas you need to attach it. The rear control arms and track bar really improved the handling, pretty easy to do. There was a noticeable improvement when accelerating out of a corner, handles like its on rails now. 
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Aug 16, 2021 18:05
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rifles posted:Probably go ahead and replace all of the brake lines and the fuel pump. I look at the fuel pump like doing a timing belt, every 100k you just do it so you don't get stranded. You can find pre bent brake line kits in stock at parts stores, it was $100 for a set of stainless for a 03 Suburban. Get replacement fender liner clips before you start, I just swapped my radiator and had to replace a bunch more. Does anyone have any recommendation for where to get fuel lines? Lines to go has something listed for a different but specific year but I'm thinking any 2000-2006 flex fuel Suburban would have the same lines.
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Dec 30, 2021 16:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:I can say from experience that a GMT400 can get to its 100MPH limiter, once. To be fair those last about as long as a clutch does.
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Feb 13, 2022 16:32
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My 92 c2500 has a nv3500 behind the tbi 5.7l, no tach but you know when it wants you to shift. It also has a shift light on the dash that I usually ignore. I've heard the nv4500 has a weak 5th gear and that's why you don't want to tow in 5th, not as sure about the lesser transmissions. You'd probably be fine if you're downshifting for bigger hills and only keep it in 5th on flat ground.
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Jul 22, 2022 21:18
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You should be able to throw any 6 bolt half ton GM rim on a 1500. If you're near southeast Wisconsin I can give you an aluminum rim with a tire that holds air on it, I was given two extra sets with my 2dr Yukon.
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Jul 27, 2022 21:51
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At some point in there the mechanical fuel pump provisions were removed.
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Jul 29, 2022 13:53
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well, looks like the parts are all over the place depending on the year and whether it was a 3/4 ton van or 1 ton van which I don't remember despite having been there. So yeah, I'm probably pulling the manifolds. I wish this thing wasn't so much of a basket case, this would be the perfect excuse to get a set of shorty headers so I don't have to remove both sets. Auto or manual? I have one of each I could measure tomorrow if you can remind me somehow. E: I have a 92 c2500 5spd and a 94 Yukon k1500 auto I can look at.
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Nov 18, 2022 23:22
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92 C2500 5.7 Manual, no oil or transmission cooler (just thermostat/water pump and expansion tank hoses): looks like 29" but I didn't remove the shroud to measure. 94 K1500 Yukon 5.7 Auto, oil and transmission cooler built in: 34" and I remembered I need to go to a junkyard and find a shroud.
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Nov 20, 2022 19:13
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The 92 has an external oil cooler and the AC in front of the regular radiator, I think the autos get the one with the transmission and oil cooler built in the 34". The only aftermarket parts on the 92 are the brake controller and radio, the 94 had a 2nd transmission and oil cooler when I got it that did a great job for corrosion mitigation.
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Nov 21, 2022 16:44
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It's not hard to do the starter, I had to swap one in a parking lot once on my 99 and it was just two bolts and two nuts to take off.
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Dec 12, 2022 15:05
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Depending on how much time you have pulling the core support makes cleaning everything a lot easier. Took care of a lot of crud buildup on the core support itself and front end in general last time I pulled an engine out.
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Dec 12, 2022 19:51
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I used the lovely harbor freight transmission jack to reinstall the transmission when I did the clutch in mine. I couldn't get it lined up any other way. I wouldn't try a semi truck transmission on the thing but a nv isn't that heavy. Getting the transmission out was harder than anything else, I used my porta power cylinder and every prybar and hammer I had to split the engine and transmission. Then a cold chisel to remove parts of the bell housing from the engine after the transmission was already out.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:15
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STR posted:trying not to drink ATF while blindly feeling for bolts). Synchromesh
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Dec 13, 2022 03:18
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I smelled the burning on my 2003 and now I only have high on the blower working, I'm guessing it's a resistor pack that had enough. Were heated mirrors an option on any of the gmt800 lineup, I'm guessing at least the Denali or Escalade have it? After the recent weather I'm really missing it.
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Dec 24, 2022 23:45
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I think the auto climate gets that and the manual (5 fan speeds) gets the resistor pack.
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Dec 30, 2022 23:21
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It's been a long time but I think it was the bronze bushing on my 92 5.7/nv3500. My 03 decided it didn't want to start today, ran rough for a second and killed. It did this a week ago and when I had time to look at it the thing started rough and ran fine after a few seconds. Fuel pump cycles and there's pressure at the bleeder on top of the engine.
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Jan 6, 2023 18:31
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 07:11 |
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I had the T fitting where it splits for the rear heater core go on the 99 burban, check out those hoses and fittings. 2003 Suburban 5.3 flex (sensor bypassed). In cold weather it cranks, pops, and does not start sometimes. If I pull the fuel pump relay it starts fine and runs if I get the relay back in before it starves for fuel. It started doing this after I replaced the fuel lines and bypassed the flex fuel sensor because it will never see e85, what I read is it will assume its using regular gas without the sensor input and just throw a light until its programmed out. Is the hard cold start related to the bypassed unplugged ethanol sensor or some completely different issue?
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Dec 16, 2023 16:54
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