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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

STR posted:

ATF makes great (hair) conditioner though!
But used gear oil (especially with friction modifier) is a lot longer lasting.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I love easy solutions.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Uncle Lloyd posted:

This might be a tiny bit out of this thread's wheelhouse, but does anyone here drive anything with an Eaton Fuller 8LL transmission? I have made the mistake at work of admitting to having some experience in the past with truck driving, but apparently failed to emphasize strongly enough that I'm not very good at it, nor do I really enjoy it. Unfortunately the same is true of everyone else, and I seem to have accidentally become our truck driver.

Anyway, they tell me the truck has eight speeds in two ranges, plus a low gear that you can split into two in the low range, which is consistent with the diagram in the cab. But I can also split every gear (1-4) in low range using the same splitter button, and no one can tell me if I'm supposed to do that, or even if I'm supposed to be able to do that. Maybe the transmission has been updated at some point in time? I guess the other question is which side should be the default within a gear. I have to be on the high side to shift into high range, so I'm assuming that the most direct route for power to take through the transmission is that way, and splitting a gear onto the low side is an additional reduction, probably to be avoided to minimize torque strain on the components? But I really have no idea.

Many years ago I routinely drove an 8LL (fire truck....a tanker). Do you have the insane pattern or the regular one:

1 3
2 4

Is regular.

1 2
3 4

is the insane one. And I LIKE that one.

So here's the deal....don't touch the blue lever. You need to be really loaded and crawling up a hill to need the LL thing.

Depending on the truck you just go 1, 4, (pop the high range) 5, 8 when unloaded. This is why the "insane" pattern is great.

When you're loaded just go through the gears in order. Forget about the LL unless you're in a stupid spot that it gets you out of. But yeah, it makes everything low. If you need it I'd suggest getting through 2 or 3 gears and then STAYING in that gear, pop it out of LL and continue.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Uncle Lloyd posted:

Yeah we have the regular pattern. Sounds like just because I *can* use the blue lever doesn't mean that I *should*, in general?

Yes. Absolutely yes.

Uncle Lloyd posted:

Also I seem to remember being told at one point in time that trying to use low gear in high range is a huge no-no, leading to destroying expensive parts in very short order--true?

I've heard the same but never experienced it. I think this is very very trans/driveline specific and I don't know what applies to what.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Uncle Lloyd posted:

Super, thanks. I now may be arguably almost qualified to do my job.

I will say completely properly driving a 5 speed split rear ford f800 or something that was another tanker at another department......I split the rear while loaded between 3rd I think and just left a greasy mark in the road and some parts.

Did not make it to that fire. poo poo happens.


Edit: CSB pointed out in my tired posting said 1/4 on the gear skipping when clearly it's 2/4. So yeah, use 2/4.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:11 on May 21, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

therunningman posted:

Ok, I'm probably going to start getting pieces if I see a good deal.

Unrelated, everytime I start the engine the brake pedal gives my foot a bump. Is that some kind of brake assist engaging, or something else?

Is it really kicking back or does it just feel like that because you have vacuum assist and it suddenly is easier to depress/goes down with the same force?

Your brain does weird interpretations of what pedals feel like when poo poo goes wrong. I know that I feel like the throttle is mushy when I have a msifire in things it's clearly not at all because it physically can't be but my brain is telling me it is because it's not doing what I expect it to do.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Okay, my first thought was that I had failed to bleed the brakes well when replacing the brakes (I should have mentioned I just did that)

Yeah, you should have. You have a bad master cylinder and probably a bad booster because, I'm going to guess, you bled them using the pedal and put it to or near the floor, shoving the rusty part of the piston through the seals.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Most likely you bought an aftermarket resistor pack and it's junk already.

I would try re-seating the connector first. If that doesn't work it's time to check the connector pins for voltage at various fan speeds to make sure it's not the switch.......but it's probably not. So many replacement parts are absolute crap.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

I think I figured it out. It's speed-based, not gear-based. I also get a "shift up" at 60-65mph, and given that there's no up from 5th I have to assume that's for 4th gear.

I don't know for sure on these trucks, but most of the upshift lights were based on a very simple calculation of engine RPM vs. vacuum.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

cursedshitbox posted:

ol GM four-hunnert platform was half imperial half metric. Sometimes on the same sub-assembly.

Little was more rage inducing than working on those.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Advent Horizon posted:

The auto coolers in a radiator are great for power steering, if you ever feel like you need more cooling in that system.

Counterpoint: auto coolers in a radiator are poo poo. I've dealt with strawberry milkshake a few too many times.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Then what is the actual actionalble concern here?

All of this reads like you're in over your head by far 22. Have you considered backing up and considering a different path here?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

STR posted:

We all popped our cherry somehow. Some of us with little stuff like a Honda D15, some with a 454. He's got a straightforward swap, some masochists with Rovers. It's just first time jitters, see here:

I was never swapping a motor at a time when I had to ask someone if something was going to roll or not when I took out the last bolt or whatever. That's the gigantic red flag of lack of experience to the point of being dangerous.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

meatpimp posted:

So I did a bit of troubleshooting of the HVAC today.

I warmed it up for about 10 minutes and was sitting in a parking lot. HVAC controls set to "Auto." Started to smell electrical.

Ran the blower speed up and down, still have full range of blower speeds. Ran blower on 5 different settings from low to high with no smell.

Ran the manual air direction through all of its ranges, seems to have blend doors working all over -- can get direct air to the face, to the feet, to the windshield, and combined.

From what I see, it's working, just getting more burn-y as time goes on. If it stays warm here, I may pull the bezel and see what's behind the HVAC controller.

I think you want to pull the blower motor resistor and see what it looks like. Might be full of crap that is burning on the cooling fins when it's on anything other than high. That can be coming from the intake or just a constant supply form the blower fan if it's already packed full of poo poo. So pull that next.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

meatpimp posted:

I'll keep watching it.

Yeah, that sucks. Looks way to clean to be the easy answer to your problem.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yeah, seriously. I think there are a lot of us with manual libraries and that one isn't in mine.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/broken-plug-remover-for-ford-3-valve

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

slidebite posted:

Ugh
When they design a tool specifically for that, it doesn't give me confidence I'm going to be able to pull them without it lol

It's because you can't. Especially not on number 8 or even 4 where it's essentially shoved into a tunnel of the firewall and in the case of 8 has the brake booster etc. in the way. You can barely get back there to change that plug, never mind do work like extracting one.

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