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My dad has a K1500, I'm pretty sure it's a '92 but he's had it for like 20 years so it's hard to remember. A while back his ex ruined the transmission and transfer case and my shade tree uncle ended up rebuilding them. He also apparently put the rear axle in from another truck, not sure what was going on there, if the ex managed to destroy the rear diff as well or something. Now my dad mentioned that it has brake noise since the swap and he's worried about its safety. My thought is that the donor vehicle was probably sitting out and the drum brakes are 90% rust at this point. I'm going to be out there this weekend and offered to take a look, is there anything else that I should keep in mind given that I know the problem cropped up after swapping in a new axle? I've only ever worked on small cars so live axles and u-joints and poo poo are new to me.
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Feb 8, 2022 19:29
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 10:05 |
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Are the ratios on the rear end something I can determine from markings or would I have to get both rears off the ground and start spinning the driveshaft to determine how many rotations makes a wheel rotation?
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Feb 9, 2022 14:17
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So basically I'd want to check that and then look for the same thing on the front axle and compare them? I'm used to Subarus where the front differential is built in as part of the transmission rather than it going transmission > transfer case > driveshaft > differential like it does with trucks as I understand it. I would hope my uncle checked to make sure they matched but I don't know how good of a mechanic he is.
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Feb 9, 2022 17:21
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Yeah, I know that you need to match front and rear diff ratios or you'll have a very bad time, I was looking at a manual swap for my SVX and you need a new rear diff because they never made a manual with the same front diff ratio. I just want to check and make sure, I don't know if he has put it in 4WD since the swap. Maybe it's a 14 bolt instead of a 10 bolt or something, apparently that's a common upgrade? My dad has a construction-style conversion truck/van that he dailies from when he was self-employed, so it has mostly been sitting. I'll check for the RPO and if I can't find it in the glovebox I'll see if I can pull it up with the VIN in the middle of nowhere, I think I actually have reception out there now.
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Feb 10, 2022 06:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:I can say from experience that a GMT400 can get to its 100MPH limiter, once. Peepee Doodoo Automatics are bad transmissions.
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Feb 13, 2022 15:09
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My brake light just came on yesterday when I was moving my '92 K1500 from the garage I was working on it at to my home, and now that I sit and troubleshoot in the daylight I'm getting a whooshing/hissing noise when I operate the brake pedal and the brake pedal is slow to return. The pedal also feels light but I have not driven this enough to have a solid point of reference. That sounds like a vacuum problem to me, how do I track down the leak? I've never had this happen before and while I will throw the parts cannon at it if that's the best course of action I'd rather just replace the faulty part.
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Apr 20, 2022 19:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:The brake light and the vacuum booster are almost certainly unrelated. Brake boosters and whooshing noises can be normal but there's nothing a brake booster can do to fail in a way that's going to trigger the brake warning light. Okay, my first thought was that I had failed to bleed the brakes well when replacing the brakes (I should have mentioned I just did that), especially since I had to replace a wheel cylinder that I found was ripped. But everything I found about the noise said brake booster. I'll bleed them first but I might pick up speed bleeders, I don't live with anyone who I can snag to stomp the brakes for me so I'm never sure how good my bleeding is. Kind of don't want to spend $18 a piece for them on this $750 truck though, it would be nice to find something I can use on all my cars since I'm trying to get in the habit of changing the fluid every year or two.
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Apr 20, 2022 20:21
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Does anyone know where to find the gear ratios of the various transmissions and years? I've got a '92 with a 5 speed manual and no tachometer. I've never driven a V8 before so I don't know what different RPM sound like. I'm going to be towing soon so I expect I'll want to be in 4th for that but I want to calculate RPMs to make sure that I don't sit near redline. I swear for a generation that talks about "hur hur kids today can't drive stick" everyone that owns one of these chose the automatic. E: I guess 4th is likely 1:1 at least so I can figure that one out. Would still be nice to know the others. E2: Lol apparently I have been taking it easy on this engine, I shift around 2k. Probably ought to go a bit higher than that. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jul 22, 2022 |
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Jul 22, 2022 17:36
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Okay, I've been careful because it's an old engine and I wasn't sure what safety measures were in place to prevent floating a valve or something. I put the tire diameter, diff ratio, and 1:1 into a RPM calculator and apparently I'd be humming at 2500-ish at 55-60. I'll keep that in mind about fifth gear too but I doubt I'll want to take it too much faster even though I have trailer brakes.
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Jul 22, 2022 19:01
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Your truck probably has the HM290. If that's the case, here's a nice paper with some good info on it: http://tcase.rsgear.com/articles/1993_03.pdf I thought it was the 5LM60 but the FSM doesn't have a great amount of information on which transmission is on there. The shift light comes on at 40-45 in 4th gear but apparently that's like 1500RPM so  . The serpentine belt is louder than I'm used to even with a new one and the pulleys and tensioners replaced, not sure if it's the PS pump or alternator or what. Not seeing any PS pump leak after pressure washing the engine bay at least. So it sounds like it's screaming but then when I have the windows down the engine is rumbling at low RPM. I'm also not used to having so much torque only driving 4 cylinders and one six cylinder auto, it will pull smoothly from what's apparently roughly 800RPM.I think part of it might be my dad always had it running at pretty low RPM judging by the way it sounded when he drove it, which might explain how he managed to get high teens out of a 5000 pound truck with a 350. I learned to drive stick on it but I just listened to the shift light there because I knew nothing about cars. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jul 22, 2022 |
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Jul 22, 2022 22:39
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I think I figured it out. It's speed-based, not gear-based. I also get a "shift up" at 60-65mph, and given that there's no up from 5th I have to assume that's for 4th gear.
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Jul 23, 2022 01:15
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Yeah, that's part of why I bought this truck. Cosmetically it's falling apart, mechanically within the past 5000 miles of me buying it, it had a rebuilt transmission, rebuilt transfer case, and new radiator. Then I replaced the brakes and the shocks and now it's an ugly pig that drives perfectly. I made my trip fine, although going up a steep mountain pass was butt-clenching with how long I had to have the engine sitting at fairly high revs just to maintain 30mph.
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Jul 24, 2022 17:11
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I want to get a new spare tire for my truck because it looks like it's about 80% rust at this point, do I need specifically a wheel designed for that or can any wheel of the proper stud pattern and hub size work? It looks like it's a full size. I could always strap one into the bed but I like having as much space in the bed as possible. It's a '92 K1500 in case the difference between GMT400/800/etc matters.
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Jul 27, 2022 21:19
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So far it has seemed like everything is metric, but maybe things have just been close enough that a metric size mostly fits. The most frustrating thing was pulling the seats to clean the carpet, 15mm bolts with next to no clearance above them, and half of my wrench/socket sets don't even include 15mm because nobody uses it. I also haven't touched the engine or transmission, which I assume is most likely to still be SAE since lol at GM having updated anything they didn't have to since 1954. I can probably pick up a spare wheel for like $15 at a junkyard at worst since there's dozens of trucks from that era in every junkyard. I guess I might need a new spare tire holding/lowering assembly too.
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Jul 28, 2022 17:56
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I'm sure they were 15 because it was the first thing I had done on the truck other than replacing the oil filter adapter gasket, topping off fluids, filling tires, and changing the air filter and battery. I had my SAE set out because I assumed that since it was an American truck it would be all SAE sizes. I went through everything in that range before I decided to try metric and it fit perfectly. The nice thing about this transmission is that I know it got rebuilt about 3,000 miles ago, along with the transfer case, because my dad's ex blew up the transmission somehow, and he got it fixed after she became ex and he already had another daily driver. So I'm hoping to avoid dealing with it for quite a while. Same deal with the shiny new radiator, he replaced it before he decided that he didn't want to keep working on a truck that mainly sat in a field. E: Actually that reminds me, do manual transmissions even have hookups for a transmission cooler? The radiator has a built-in transmission cooler that you can hook up but it isn't hooked up to the transmission. As far as I know that's only an automatic transmission thing but given that I sometimes tow with this thing it probably wouldn't be bad to have additional transmission cooling since it's having additional strain placed on it. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jul 28, 2022 |
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Jul 28, 2022 18:58
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I looked it up on Wikipedia and it said it started production in 1954, I guess started production in '54 for the '55 model year?
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Jul 29, 2022 06:02
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Cross-posting from the stupid questions thread: I've got a bad smell coming from the rear passenger's wheel after driving and the wheel gets hot. The parking brake pedal also doesn't return all the way, I can flop it back up another few inches after pulling the release latch, I think that's probably related but I could be wrong. The smell and heat don't seem quite as bad after smacking the backing plate on the brake drum with a deadblow a few times, but I popped the drum off anyway. The bottom portion of the rear drum, which the parking brake engages, is roughed up compared to the rest of the shoes. Honda Whisperer (I think) in the stupid questions thread said that if I had the drum off I could release the parking brake, how would I do that? Also, is there something I can/should adjust/clean to prevent this happening again? It started happening right after hauling a big trailer (5,000lb, truck rated for 6,000) so I'm wondering if the brakes were hot when I parked and put the parking brake on and that caused a problem like I remember a goon having happen at a track day. The trailer has fantastic brakes though, to the point it was braking faster than without the trailer, so I wouldn't think that would be the issue.
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Aug 17, 2022 22:07
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Sorry, I keep forgetting to specify. '92 K1500 pickup. It was a pain getting the drum off. Easier once I remembered to disengage the parking brake but still a significant amount of resistance to pulling it off. So it's partially moving but not fully. From my failed attempt at doing the drum brakes before I took it to the shop when I first got the truck I know that the rear shoe on the truck is the parking brake. Judging by Google it looks like there should be an adjustment for the parking brake cable somewhere ahead of the rear end, but I'm not sure if there's anything I have to do inside the drum itself to make sure the brake can disengage. E: fixed it, the parking brake line had enough slack (maybe a little too much?) so I backed off the pre-adjustment until with the parking brake on there was a little friction and with it off there was none. Went for a ~8 mile test drive including some highway driving and some hard braking on back roads and the wheel is cool to the touch when it used to be warm after about 5 miles. Also found an empty parking lot and backed up and braked a few times to give the adjustment a chance to get just right. I'm going to carry a jack, stands, wrench, crowbar, and pliers for a while in case it gets bad again I can find an O'Reilly's parking lot or something to fix it. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 17, 2022 23:03
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I'm looking at a 2010 Sierra 1500 since my truck exploded and I'm tired of my vehicles breaking down. Did they all have displacement on demand in that timeframe? I know I can tell by the RPO code but I don't expect the owner to be able to find it and I'd rather avoid the ~hour drive to see it if it's got the lifter killer. It looks like the 5.3s did, but I can't tell about the 6.0. E: This one is the 4.8 I guess from the seller's documentation, looks like those didn't have active fuel management, but there have been so many versions of every engine made I'm not positive. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Sep 7, 2022 |
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Sep 7, 2022 18:31
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Cross-posting from my project thread, on a GMT400 are the manifolds on a van engine (this one came out of a 3500 I think) compatible with the exhaust on a truck (K1500)? They're both TBI 350s, I just want to know if I need to drown the new engine in liquid wrench (not literally) to get the headers off or if it will hook up and save me a lot of headache.
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Nov 17, 2022 22:27
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Well, looks like the parts are all over the place depending on the year and whether it was a 3/4 ton van or 1 ton van which I don't remember despite having been there. So yeah, I'm probably pulling the manifolds. I wish this thing wasn't so much of a basket case, this would be the perfect excuse to get a set of shorty headers so I don't have to remove both sets. E: Does anyone know what the standard radiator core size was for the 5.7? I see a few different sizes on Rockauto, a 20 3/4" wide core, a 28 1/4" core, and a 34" core. I'd estimate the one in there to be 28" but that seems really small for an engine this size. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Nov 18, 2022 |
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Nov 18, 2022 00:06
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Mine is the manual k1500, '92.
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Nov 19, 2022 00:50
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Interesting, I'd expect the 2500 to have the larger radiator, I guess maybe it's just manuals got 28 and autos got 34?
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Nov 21, 2022 04:15
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I'm still working on swapping the engine on my '92 K1500, I've got almost everything off and am hoping to get the engine out this weekend but I want to confirm what I'm seeing as far as the starter. It looks like the starter is hooked up to the transmission so I won't have to pull it to take the engine out, is that right? I was under the impression that starters were always on the engine but I haven't done a swap before so I might just completely misunderstand how this stuff works.
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Dec 10, 2022 23:04
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Gotcha, thanks. So it isn't attached to the block, but I do have to pull it. Shouldn't be too bad, I just need to stop forgetting my headlamp.
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Dec 10, 2022 23:56
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As far as I can tell, yes, but I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at under there between the poor visibility, grime all over everything, and never really working on anything but a boxer engine before. It's right over another piece that I think is either the clutch cable or shift linkage, on the front of the transmission towards the passenger's side. I got the starter bolts loose and almost got it out but a bracket on it is hitting what looks like a sensor that is going in right over the oil pan. Does anyone know what that sensor is from the description? I'm trying to get it to load on Imgur so I can link it but I'm having trouble for some reason. The plastic boot on the sensor is shattered so I'm not quite sure how to safely get it out, the sensor itself looks like it might be ceramic so I'm afraid of cracking it. Might just be unusually white plastic for something of this age though.
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Dec 11, 2022 04:08
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Yeah, I managed to get both yesterday. I might need to get a socket on the knock sensor nut to get it off depending on whether the new engine still has its sensor on but I got the wire disconnected and that made it easy to get the starter out, the issue was that the plug for the knock sensor was getting in the way of getting the starter all the way out. Now for the terrifying part, getting the last two bellhousing bolts off and wiggling it loose from the transmission. I've got all four wheels chocked but if it manages to roll somehow I might as well not even get out of the way because it will hit my friend's fiancee's prized Land Cruiser. I'm also really hoping this hoist goes high enough to get over the grill because I don't want to have to jack up the truck, remove the front wheels, and lower it to get another 6"-10" of clearance.
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Dec 12, 2022 17:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do you not have the driveshaft disconnected yet? If you do, no reason the truck should start rolling when you pull the transmission. Oh I'm not removing the transmission, I'm removing the engine. I just know once the engine is pulled out I no longer have any engine braking from the transmission being in gear. I've got the parking brake on which hasn't ever failed to work but also needs replacing at some point. I've never pulled an engine before so I think some of the anxiety is first time jitters.
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Dec 12, 2022 20:46
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It only seems to have one transmission mount, thanks for the heads-up on that. I don't have a transmission jack specifically, just normal floor jacks and jack stands. Fake edit: I just remembered a friend of mine is down on the Front Range, I'm going to ask him to pick up a HF transmission jack while he's down there and I'll pay him back. How would dropping the transmission help with re-mounting the engine? Or is it a matter of it's easier to maneuver the transmission into mating with the engine than vice versa? I do have a new transmission mount either getting here today or Wednesday so I was planning on replacing it if feasible. You're right, I should pop it in neutral and maybe even rock it a bit to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. I sometimes have irrational fears, it took me years to be comfortable with being under a car on jack stands. Then again I'm pretty sure those were Harbor Freight jack stands so maybe it wasn't so irrational.
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Dec 12, 2022 23:04
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At this point I don' t really have a concern aside from wanting to make absolutely sure this thing doesn't roll, and frequently being oblivious to the obvious solution (like check if I can make it roll in neutral) I was worried about finding out. Well, I am concerned about whether the hoist will go high enough but I have two ideas in case it doesn't. (1, lower the front, 2, remove the core support, AC condenser, and grill). My initial questions in this chain were about an unknown sensor with a shattered boot (that ended up being the knock sensor) and whether I had to remove the starter from the bellhousing (yes, and now it's done). Intellectually I know that I've taken all the proper precautions but I'm just a generally anxious person and that's all amplified when I'm doing something new because my inner voice is always telling me I'm not good enough but this isn't E/N.Advent Horizon posted:From experience, the scissor lift-style transmission jacks are entirely inadequate for a transmission + transfer case. They don’t handle unbalanced loads. What would you recommend instead? Seems like I would need to disconnect the transmission from the transfer case? Or two jacks? Per the specs I looked up the NV3500 is about 110lb empty. E: I should specify that the AC system is already empty so I'm not going to blow a bunch of freon into the air if I have to remove the condenser.
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Dec 13, 2022 02:00
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Advent Horizon posted:The ‘800-pound’ transmission jack at HF is fine. The reason you need a ‘better than the cheapest’ jack is because the transfer case front output prohibits the whole thing from sitting level on a small jack; decent jacks have both a wide stance and the ability to tilt. You will also need the tilt to get things lined up again upon reassembly. Okay, I see what you are saying now. And I do have a couple cheap ratchet straps around here somewhere that I don't have much use for now that I bought some 2" flatbed straps from a trucker friend. I wish I was down there in person to get the $55 off that they currently have going for inside track members on that one but $55 would barely cover the gas driving 4 hours, let alone my time. Also I am reminded I need to cancel my Inside Track membership, I got it so I could get like $150-200 off a winch shortly before the truck exploded. Why do you suggest pulling the core support and taking everything out as one assembly? I'm guessing it would be easier to position the engine to hook it up to the transmission when they're both out, then I just ("just") slide it in the front again? I'm hesitant to pull more than I need to but also trying not to let the "should be faster" way end up taking me longer.
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Dec 13, 2022 03:08
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That makes sense. I already pulled the hood (and I'm pretty proud of managing that solo) to make it easier to reach everything and in preparation of pulling the engine, but I'll pull the front of it if that makes it easier. I've been talking through the process with a friend but he's never worked on this particular platform.
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Dec 13, 2022 03:53
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a service manual for a 400 series? I've got a FSM but it's hot garbage and doesn't even include instructions for pulling an engine which has caused me a lot of suffering. I've always used FSMs before so I'm not sure if the Chilton/Haynes/whatever manuals are any good.
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Dec 27, 2022 22:14
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Well that sucks, but okay. I'm usually a "read through the manual, visualize the process, read again, go try" type of guy when I have the opportunity to approach it that way. I think I've gotten everything disconnected, we'll see if there's anything else hiding on the back of the engine once I get it out. I feel like I had other beef with the FSM before this but I forget what it would have been.
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Dec 28, 2022 17:33
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I've got the engine out of my '92 truck and am almost ready to put the new one in but I need a clutch pilot bearing. There are two different kinds, one with teeth inside one without. The new (used) engine came out of an automatic van and it's going in a manual (5lm60/NV3500) truck. The new engine had one with no teeth, am I right in thinking that the manual needs one with teeth? That seems to be what the pictures on Rockauto are suggesting but I want to make sure I don't get the wrong one from Autozone, hook the engine all the way up, and then have a truck that won't move when I've got everything back together.
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jan 6, 2023 |
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Jan 6, 2023 17:38
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 10:05 |
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Oh interesting, good to know, thanks. I guess what I thought were teeth were the bearings in a needle bearing, I was just trying to tell based off of small photos on Rockauto.
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Jan 6, 2023 21:59
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