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At this point, if you think you can wrestle the trans out and have all the long pliers and snap ring poo poo - the $80 kit sounds good. I myself failed at rebuilding a 700R4 way back in the day, which is the predecessor to the 4L60. But the value of the truck is probably low enough and used 4L60s cheap enough that it’s worth a shot. Its too bad its not 4x4 because a clean, rust free truck of that era is getting hard to find in the north and midwest. Another 20 years and it might be a classic, lol. Also, those are decent, probably the best long term choice of the era. Lots of small issues, but generally stout. 250k out of an automatic transmission is fair, and the second failure is kinda not a design issue. That particular truck just wasn’t optioned for towing.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2021 03:11 |
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# ¿ May 9, 2024 23:13 |
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Ehhh, you can just about put a 48RE on a 100k mile checklist. Same with whatever turd of an automatic came behind the 7.3 PSD. The 4L60 gets a bad reputation for a reason, but you can do much worse.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2021 03:53 |
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cursedshitbox posted:Rebuild it yourself. Take lots of photos. Post up here. They're not hard to do. Get some good circlip pliers and a couple of those dentist pics from the surplus store. Mine lasted 78k in a 98 E450. Whatever it was. The engine was ok, but slow with noticeable turbo lag. I personally don’t care for the 7.3, I think it only gets a good reputation because every ford diesel that came after it broke all the time in the most expensive ways possible. Lots of people will only buy ford trucks so that was the only option for a long time. Supposedly the 2015+ 6.7 PSD is reliable but time will tell, when I bought the LBZ in 2011 the 6.4 was hot poo poo with a delete and an alligator tune and “so much better than the 6.0”. 11 years on we all know that engine was a dud, good for about 150k stock, far less tuned and a total write off when it does poo poo the bed. Even the early 6.7 psd likes to drop valves, lunch turbos and do all the expensive cp4 tricks. I really liked my LBZ duramax and the 6.7 cummins I have now is ok just a little loud. And to the OP if a $2500 transmission seems expensive for the love of god don’t buy a modern diesel.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2021 04:14 |
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I would risk the $80 and your labor on the kit. Then go look for something else if it can’t be fixed. Preferably 3/4 ton, gas, 4x4. Sounds like overkill but if all you do is tow with it then as you have already found out, 1/2 ton is not the best choice. They are more “daily driver/weekend warrior”. Not sit sit sit then tow in the mountains and sit some more.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2021 23:46 |
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:If I'm not mistaken, this is also the general truck related poo poo thread. Hard cap was the worst thing I ever had on a truck. My tundra came with a leer and it completely ruined the truck for carrying anything other than groceries and luggage. It was nearly impossible to reach the front of the bed which is where everything gathers. It was a two person job to take off but I felt bad leaving it in the garage where it could get messed up because it was color matched and really expensive. My only suggestion would be roll n lock. Its “retractable” but made of aluminum. And a set of wheel to wheel step rails. The cheap vinyl bed caps don’t last, don’t keep things dry and the snaps constantly fall off.
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2021 13:03 |
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# ¿ May 9, 2024 23:13 |
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Gm stuff normally runs a little hot but the temp shouldn’t swing that much. You need a thermostat and maybe a water pump if you don’t know when it was last done. Well, re read that. Maybe a fan clutch.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2021 03:35 |