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ATF makes great (hair) conditioner though!
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Mar 3, 2021 16:56
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This. On a lot of cars, the OBD2 port doesn't get power if the lighter socket isn't working. I've run into it on 3 different cars (Honda, Nissan, Saturn).
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May 2, 2021 15:14
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Oh man I used to love the Aurora and was tempted a few times but GM. Was it a fun/good car? Random datapoint, but my grandfather owned a slew of GM dealerships (including Cadillac and Oldsmobile). He'd usually grab a car off the lot to drive for a few months, and slap his personalized dealer plates on (<dealername>1). He'd grabbed a brand new, first year Aurora, I think the first one GM sent to his Olds lot. Mom's car was at the dealer getting something done, so he tossed her the keys (it was only supposed to take a couple of hours, otherwise he would have arranged a loaner). We got towed back 5 miles later, with <200 miles on the odometer. It pegged the temp gauge within a couple of miles, and wound up dying on us. Much like the Northstar, it had an overheat mode where it ran on half of the cylinders and shut off the AC. It still wound up needing an engine IIRC; he'd been driving it every day with the gauge pegged, and not paying attention (he was hard of hearing and up there in years by then, and probably a bit used to 90s GMs dinging constantly for everything - and drove, well, like grandpa, so probably didn't even notice the loss of power - I remember having to show him how to turn off the hazards on one car when I was a kid...). But that overheat mode is just meant to get you home ONCE, then call for a tow to the dealer. it's NOT meant to let you drive around all day with the engine cooking away. With how fast it overheated on us (I don't know why I remember this all these years later), I'm guessing the thermostat was stuck... or it just didn't get any coolant from the factory. It didn't boil over or have any smoke or steam coming out when it died, it just died and had that nasty "hot metal" smell instead of that "overheated engine with a side of coolant" smell. I've driven/ridden in a few others since then, and they were very nice cars with decent power. That random datapoint just happened to bite the dealership owner's daughter in the rear end. meatpimp posted:On the Northstar -- I have had 3 of them and they have all been great, dependable, strong motors. A '93 STS, a '96 Aurora and an '02 Deville. The biggest repair I had on any of them was a water pump on the Deville. They were all great cars. Irony: mom's 92 SLS was in the shop for something fairly minor (I think the alternator took a poo poo a few weeks after she got it?), hence how we wound up driving her dad's Aurora. A month or two later, we tried to take a road trip to Idaho (from TX), in August. The AC compressor locked up just as we hit Utah with <3000 miles on it. It kept eating AC compressors after that until GM finally replaced everything instead of just the compressor (gee, wonder why?). The 94 was a better car, but would overheat anytime Mr Fresh Driver License (me) laid into it too much. It popped the head gaskets 2 or 3 times under warranty.  Also grenaded a transmission, but the tech who tore it down solidly blamed it on "someone pretending it's a manual and downshifting it constantly" (whoops). (that was before they just replaced it without tearing it down on a warranty job)I THINK we wound up in a 96 SLS after, then a 98 or 99 Intrigue. The Intrigue was a pile, aside from the 3800 (though it too popped a set of head gaskets - water pump poo poo itself around 30k and she ignored the temp gauge + DING DING DING DING DING DING DING DING, kept driving until it died - shortblock was fine, got hot enough that it hosed the intake manifold though). The interior and body were the major issues on that car (I'm lumping the digital climate control into body in this case, it went through 3 or 4 climate control modules); the water pump was the only engine issue it ever had. At 50k (when she got rid of it) much of the interior looked like it had >300k on it. Door cards that fell off when you looked at it funny, stuff falling out of the dash (vents, airbag covers), headliner flapping around, etc. The Intrigue was the worst of the W bodies, IMO - I think the Buick Regal was probably one of the most solid versions, plus you could get it supercharged and still have it look like grandma's church car.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:17 on May 10, 2021 |
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May 10, 2021 10:10
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At least on their compact cars, GM doesn't kick the fans on until over 220. Both of my Saturns were that way, friend's Cruze is also the same. The gauge also doesn't move at all from about 180-225 on the Cruze; on the Saturns it would hit dead center right when the fans kicked on (until then it would be just below the middle). When I did the thermostat on said Cruze last week, I was about to start making GBS threads myself because it just kept heating up more and more, then the fan finally kicked on around 225 and instantly dropped the temp. On her car it stayed on until about 215, on the Saturns it would drop it down to 195ish before the fan turned back off. GM likes to run their poo poo hot. There may be a PID to monitor over Torque or something similar to see if the fans are commanded on, but you'll have the best luck with a scan tool that speaks GM.
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Nov 14, 2021 05:12
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If you know how CV joints work, you know how U Joints work - the concept is the same, but a simpler execution. They're easier to troubleshoot, even, since they're exposed and designed not to have much play in them. As far as a live axle, think of the axles as CV axles, except without CV joints. They might have clips keeping them in the differential though, so if they have to come out, you often have to pull the diff cover (you will discover horrific smells if you do this, and you'll need to know if you need a friction modifier when reassembling/refilling). I'd be more concerned about the rear end matching the front - they have to be the same ratio, otherwise the transfer case turns its innies into outies. Make sure there's no liquid when you pull the drums - if the axle seals are leaking, there will be diff oil in there. If there's oil in there, uh, have fun, since you get to pull the axles to replace the seals. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Feb 9, 2022 |
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Feb 9, 2022 14:07
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The shift light comes on at 40-45 in 4th gear but apparently that's like 1500RPM so Completely different car (but still GM), but my Saturn would often throw the upshift light as low as 1100 RPM. It also threw it a few times in reverse. I learned very quickly the purpose of that light was to make me lug the everliving poo poo out of that engine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jul 24, 2022 |
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Jul 24, 2022 01:31
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310 hp, 430 ft/lbs.  More torque than the 5.3, less HP.The power looks to be a little more than Ford's 2.7 Ecoboost (I'm sure some of that is due to less rotating mass, since Chevy's 2.7 is a 4 banger). I've driven the 2.7 EB w/10 speed in an F-150, and that thing scoots way harder than something that size has any business doing. I don't know if I'd want to own either engine once they get past 100k, but I'm a luddite that prefers NA on a high mile vehicle.
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Dec 10, 2022 07:33
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Motronic posted:All of this reads like you're in over your head by far 22. Have you considered backing up and considering a different path here? We all popped our cherry somehow. Some of us with little stuff like a Honda D15, some with a 454. He's got a straightforward swap, some masochists with Rovers. It's just first time jitters, see here: 22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm just a generally anxious person and that's all amplified when I'm doing something new because my inner voice is always telling me I'm not good enough but this isn't E/N. Sounds like we're pretty similar in that regard, and I still get nervous doing engine swaps. Take a step back, re-read everything, take plenty of pictures as stuff comes apart. You have a very straightforward swap to do with plenty of room in the engine bay, and the benefit of being able to take your time. If something doesn't seem right, go to the School of Youtube for a little bit. Don't get in a hurry, that's how mistakes are made. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Dec 13, 2022 |
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Dec 13, 2022 02:58
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Because it's easier (and faster). You don't need to lift the engine nearly as high (which leads to a top-heavy hoist that tips over much easier), you don't need to worry about hitting the hood or removing it. You can separate the engine from everything else with the engine almost on the ground, with everything easy to reach (instead of doing half the work on your back trying not to drink ATF while blindly feeling for bolts).
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Dec 13, 2022 03:12
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I'm sure you know where I'm going with this - was it on high, or a different speed?
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Dec 24, 2022 05:15
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Blend doors - at least on most cars - usually strip the gears instead of burning up the motors. If they stick, they usually pop a fuse, or just sit there pulling power and giving a melty plastic smell. Would you believe me if I told you that you can get to the blend doors with 7 bolts and a paint pen on a Crown Vic/Town Car/Grand Marquis? (you unbolt the passenger side of the dash, leave the steering column with the column already locked attached, remove the pinch bolt on the column and mark it, loosen a few bolts on the driver's side, yank the passenger side dash and drop it into the passenger seat - BAM you have an evap, heat core, and all of the blend doors right there in about an hour without even removing a single plug!)Uh, got distracted, sorry. Check the resistor anyway.
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Dec 24, 2022 13:52
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Godholio posted:The blower motor resistor is a notorious failure point on And if you're Ford, you run the full current through the dash switch; when the switch fails you wind up with ~5-8V going through it. But ONLY when you have the blower in the circuit; if you probe the circuit with the blower motor disconnected, you get the full 12+V you'd see on any other circuit. It doesn't fall over until the blower is connected. Ford runs the GROUND through the switch on Crown Vics, F series, Econolines, and who knows what else that got stuck in the 80s. I bought my car with it wheezing a tiny puff of air out of the dash on "high" and negotiated down thinking it needed a new fan motor; new switch (<$20 at Advance) fixed it right up. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Dec 24, 2022 |
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Dec 24, 2022 14:12
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I believe you'd need one from an 03-06 Silverado, if Rockauto's cross reference is to be believed.
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Feb 7, 2023 18:37
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 08:36 |
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madeintaipei posted:To alleviate a problem with the 2V V8/V10 heads (plug threads too shallow), the 3Vs use a two piece sparkplug which tends to break in half if you don't use a special tool to remove them, leaving a chunk of plug down in the head where you can't reach it without another special tool. Rainman Ray seems to be a fan of just hitting them with penetrating oil and an impact (very short bursts) with the engine hot. The rearmost are the most likely to seize, at least in the F series, as they get dumped on when it rains. That's obviously anecdotal evidence; I've never dealt with a 3V, and hope I never have to. I did have a 2V that never spat, but it was a later model (2007).
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Dec 16, 2023 18:24
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