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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Kunabomber posted:

sometimes i stare at the pc building simulator listing on steam, wondering if i should open this door

Isn't it like a visual novel or something?

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Nothus posted:

also lol at telling people that your CPU thermally throttling under load conditions is fine and normal

I think every single Mac laptop does this.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

mA posted:

Does anyone have any suggestions for a computer desk that is about 55"-60" in length and >25" in width? Most desks in this size are a few inches too small in width for my liking. I'm using a LG CX48 as my primary monitor so I need the extra width. I've narrowed my search down to this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086W41GX5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A32G6KYZG6O024&th=1), but I wanted to see if any other goons who have better suggestions. Size is more important to me than any fancy features.


Mods: My bad if this should be in a different megathread - I didn't see specific thread for computer/office desks.

I use an IKEA Gerton tabletop with 4 cheap legs and it's been fantastic for my desk. They have a ton of different sizes, tabletop and leg options. I tried looking it up to link you and I don't know if they still make it though but another would work just as well.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Target Practice posted:

Had my IT buddy at work come up with something, wanted to run by for a second opinion. I have a 2080 ready to drop into it.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock B550M Phantom Gaming 4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($91.90 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA B5 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($82.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($108.78 @ Other World Computing)
Total: $758.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-06-17 16:29 EDT-0400

Get a windows key on sa mart for basically free and I wonder how much the next step up is for cpu? 6c/12t is fine but 8/16 might match the 2080 a bit more if you play a lot of multithreaded games.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Motherboard flashing is extremely easy IF you have another computer that you can use to put stuff on the USB. Just so you aren't stuck calling a friend or whatever.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I'd rather pay 4 bucks for it to be new and to not have to arrange buying it from a goon tbh.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

NikkolasKing posted:

So I'm not sure where to ask this. I bought an external Seagate HDD because I really needed the space. So I was enjoying my 2TB to dump basically everything when, less than a year after buying it, it stopped working. i was just playing a game on Steam and then my HDD started beeping and that's all she wrote. Maybe. I've been trying to read and learn what I can and I've heard there might be other explanations than it's hosed beyond hope. It was just sitting on my desktop tower when this happened so maybe?

I dunno. Can anybody take even a wild guess at how much data recovery might be? Have you had to do it?

In any event, even if it's hosed, I'll live. I just, maybe no more HDD's? I've had thumb drives and of course my PC and stuff for 4 years that still work just fine. This thing didn't last 1 year. Would an external SSD be more durable?

An I reading this correctly that your HDD was sitting on top of your case? Seems like that's an area that can get fairly hot if you've got air cooled components. It's probably dead but you can pay a *lot* of money to get the data off it via companies that specialize in data recovery. Generally speaking if you aren't doing things with RAID arrays you should expect an HDD from seagate to last ten years or more easily. I have a drive that I bought around 20 years ago when SATA first came out that (slowly) still works.

E: data recovery for one drive I would think starts around $400 for them to take the time to look at it. I really don't know.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Jun 23, 2021

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

NikkolasKing posted:

Yeah I have my desktop sitting on the floor and the cable that came with the HDD is really short so there really was nowhere else to put the external except on the tower. I mean, there is my carpeted floor but that didn't seem like a good idea.

Maybe I chose poorly.

There's nothing vital on it, just a lot of books and movies I'd rather not lose. I'm gonna call a local data recovery thing today a to see if they can give me a very basic guesstimate. But yeah, if it starts at $400, no way. I'll see if I can get that warranty. But if it's all my fault in the first place for putting it in a stupid place,...

Oh well, thanks for the advice everyone.

Oh I think I missed the part where you said it's an external drive. You should see about shucking the drive enclosure, it's possible that the power delivery to the drive failed or something like that and you might be able to power it with some poo poo like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-Exter...+drive+&sr=8-12

Sorry for the long ugly link, phone posting 5AM.

External drives can probably tolerate more heat etc than a naked internal drive.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Bouchehog posted:

Bit of an issue with the build for my brother (full specs here). The EVGA 3070 I've sourced is too long to fit the case with the CPU cooler radiator (a Corsair iCUE H100i):



The card is not currently sitting in a PCIe slot. It needs to go into one of the two shown (the third is under the card in the shot above but is the slot lower than the GPU is sitting, so I can't use that one). I obviously need space for the power leads so even if I could shift the radiator back a few millimetres to cram it in, I'd still have an issue.

I can't see that I can keep the cooler: The top of the case (left of shot) is fixed with rivets, has no mounting holes and would have no airflow, the bottom section has no mounting holes and the PSU will sit below at the back of the case, so would not be ideal even if I could mount the radiator there.

It looks like the only solution would be to change out the cooler for something that will fit better. Any suggestions? It's on a i7-11700K which will be overclocked from 4.9GHz.

I don't know how handy you are but if you already have a dremel and some know how you can pull everything from the case, measure carefully, and dremel out a space for the radiator at the top of the case. If you want to do this make sure you have eye protection and you absolutely must vacuum the case out and sand the edges where you dremeled before reassembling.

I'd cover the top of the case with masking tape, put the rad on and look at where the mounting holes go (push a screw through each hole to mark the tape once you have the rad where you want it), then draw a line with a ruler where you need to cut and go slowly and carefully. I've done this to mount fans before and the rad would be above the pump which is ideal anyways. If you don't feel comfortable with this don't do it obviously but if I was in your shoes and couldn't change the case I'd be doing that.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Furnaceface posted:

Yeah its the GPU. I was really hoping it wasnt but deep down I knew.

What counts as a mid range card these days? And who has experience buying parts in Canada? Its been a long time. :v:

Refresh these basically

I have those links set up with my filter set so go in and change poo poo. Also there's this youtube stream that basically doesn't work because it pings for massively uppriced resales but sometimes someone in the chat will mention if a card is in stock at MSRP somewhere (MUTE THIS STREAM as it has a klaxon that goes off every few minutes):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_GodGqvc-A

Almost seems like your best bet now is to put yourself on EVGA notify queue and hope it pops sometime and then eat the massive customs fee when you ship it to yourself in Canada.

Good luck man it's a loving nightmare.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Furnaceface posted:

Yeah its the GPU. I was really hoping it wasnt but deep down I knew.

What counts as a mid range card these days? And who has experience buying parts in Canada? Its been a long time. :v:

Hey these are in stock like right now

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00116061

https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX00116653

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

roomforthetuna posted:

Is there such a thing as a PSU with a built in short-life UPS? I was trying to find an ultracapacitor-based UPS that would just give me like 10 seconds of backup power, enough time for the machine to automatically shut down cleanly, without having to be replaced every ~3 years like a battery UPS does. Seems like that doesn't exist (or only exists in "call us for a quote" land or DIY), but that got me thinking, it should be much easier to do a capacitor-backup on the DC side of the power equation.

Not an electrician or engineer but the last thing I want is my psu building in a huge(r) capacitor that could gently caress up and discharge into my system. Not a horrible idea if you had a full size case and had a ups 'area' in the bottom with a dedicated smaller ups though, I'd do that.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

LorneReams posted:

Yikes, I guess I need to recheck some of this stuff if it’s truly overkill. I was afraid of Plex 4K, but if I can get away with cheaper, then for sure I will.

What are you streaming your Plex to? Things that can natively play the file format require a lot less of the server because it doesn't have to transcode video. If you're spending as much money as it looks like you might be, and you stream to some kind of box that could be easily upgraded to play like hevc or whatever the 4k format is natively, that might make a huge difference.

I could be totally wrong or off base here but I think it's worth looking at.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Consider the Fractal Design Focus G for a very cheap option. The much more expensive Define R5 is an option if you want a shitload of drive bays. Without knowing anything about build quality and ease of installation, I would prefer the Focus G here for having what appears to be better airflow without having to leave some gimmicky hinged panel open.

The offset in these cases means that the topmost front-panel fan will still blow below the CPU. This may not be much of an issue with a tower cooler and a rear exhaust fan, though—your tower cooler's fans should redirect internal case airflow towards it. Just don't try using AIO water cooling if that's something you wanted to do. With a front radiator mount, your pump will be at the top of the loop (which is quite bad), and your optical drives will obstruct a top panel mount.

I have the define r5 and like it but I'm surprised they still sell it - I thought there was an r6 or even r7 by this point.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

I looked at some more cases with 5.25" bays, and drat, SilverStone is still keeping it real with some 2001-rear end cases.





Look at that 2.5" bay. I actually kind of dig the melding of old and new elements here, a mesh section in the front panel mixed with some early 2000s business tower design. A shame about the complete lack of cable management space.

edit: pretty sure this is case is a few years older actually but has been relisted for some reason. Still, lol.

I still have a 5.25" floppy drive that I was putting into PCs for a long time and just connecting to molex power (it was IDE) so the green LED on the front would be on and it would look like it was set up. Good for a laugh I guess but now that I'm an old piece of poo poo and nobody sees my PC I haven't bothered. Also I think the little handle lock-in piece would prevent the front of my case from closing.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:

They make IDE to SATA adapters for <$10USD if you really want to load up those 3.5" discs... :pcgaming:

This is a 5.25" drive though! And now that I think about it I believe I also stopped connecting it to power because it would make some kind of noise.

e: It's in a closet somewhere but I think it's this one, that light looks familiar

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:

stop it i need to call a doctor... :ohdear:

Jokes aside, no idea if any media can survive ~40 years on an actually floppy, floppy disc, but you could find out... :sweatdrop:

I don't have any anymore but I did see them at my mom's place when I was visiting. They're all the games you used to get at the checkout counter of what I thought was Egghead but I'm Canadian and it doesn't look like that store came up here. Maybe I'm thinking of something else but yeah.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

LorneReams posted:

I got all my parts and just froze because I realized it's been almost a decade since I did this last. Are you supposed to attach everything to the motherboard first before putting it into the case?

Nope. There are a ton of videos on youtube but basically step one is to touch something metal to ground yourself, then motherboard in, CPU and cpu cooler on, RAM in (unless your ram goes under your cooler), case fans and drives in, SATA cables to mobo, front panel i/o cables to mobo, PSU in and PSU cable management, GPU in and then manage the cables from PSU to GPU. You can do this a few ways but this is what works for me. Don't forget to put the motherboard I/O shield in the case/on the mobo before you put the mobo in.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Modern cases allow for the new normal, yeah. But you can also sometimes rip poo poo out of old cases to make it fit.

The good news is that relative to all the other stuff, cases are pretty cheap. Define r series from fractal design are a thread favorite.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I believe you need to take the top off that case to remove any panels.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

WITCHCRAFT posted:

I built a computer for the first time in like 12 years!

Ryzen 3600
1050ti
32GB RAM

I originally bought most of it in January, and was trying to get a reasonably priced RTX card (lol). Finally caved in and got the 1050ti as a placeholder. It's still an upgrade over my old card.

Spent 4 hours unboxing everything and putting it together. It booted the windows install USB stick on the first try, I was so relieved.

I got a black full ATX case with a glass window, and then bought all black parts with no LEDs. This amuses me. Also it has 4 empty media slots and 6 empty HDD slots. This also amuses me. Gonna throw some cheap big storage drives in there later, but it is just so big and black and empty right now and I love it.

Getting everything downloaded and installed then going to bed. Tomorrow I'll see how it handles games I've been looking forward to.

Good stuff! Love that feeling.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

WITCHCRAFT posted:

Restarted to install windows update and now I can't get any video output at all, can't even boot to BIOS

Now we're cooking with gas!!

Unplug all but one monitor and maybe try plugging that monitor into the mobo instead of the GPU. See if your mobo has a display for error codes and reference them online or in the manual.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

WITCHCRAFT posted:

Mobo has error lights but none are on. They do light up, like if i pull all the ram out the ram error light will be on. But it isn't grumpy about whatever is causing my video output problem.

I have reseated the gpu and ram, plugged the monitor into the mobo instead, tried a different cable/ monitor, tried the gpu again with different monitor. The computer powers on and mobo lights indicate it is booting up, but I cant get any video out.

Last night when I finished putting it together, I installed windows, ran updates/restarted several times, installed steam and a few games, checked thzt they ran withut crashing, then went to bed. This morning windows wanted to install another update, i restarted again and am now stuck with no video output, not even the mobo logo or bios menu.

Still poking at things and googling... dont have another gpu or hard drive to swap out and test, and the lack of video means i cant try a fresh windows install.

Windows update, why you gotta do me dirty like this?

Can you try the gpu in a different pci-e slot?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:

It's kind of hilarious to have a huge, plastic :airquote: airflow :airquote: case and then just shove a bargin-bin Dell case from 1998 inside of it like a Russian Nesting Doll.

Was Alienware ever reputable, before they were bought by Dell? My hazy, childhood nostalgia has them as the only ~gaming~ PC maker back in the 90s. Was it garbage back then too?

Yeah they were pretty reputable back in the day before getting bought by Dell. Kinda the same thing but they'd be custom building stuff and not using Dell methodology.

For what it's worth my dad has some alienware pc about 10 years old (still in the Dell era) with SLI and rudimentary AIO cooling in a full size ATX case for opening spreadsheets and PDFs and it's been fine for him - he *needs* the tech support that you get with those things, he uses it for every question he has about computer things (how do I get USB 3.0 speeds on my USB 2.0 computer?). Or maybe it's me who needs him to have this support.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Boba Pearl posted:

Can a 1070 even run anything these days?

I would expect a 1070 with a 3.5ghz 4 core/ 8 thread processor can run pretty much anything at great settings in 1080p.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Some of y'all have some outdated notions of what a 1070 can do. There's no way that thing is running modern AAA games at 1080p60 without lowering the options quite a bit. My considerably better 5700 XT feels barely adequate a lot of the time.

1070 benchmarks in 1440p (they didn't bother testing 1080p because it's too obviously fine for 1080p):













Source

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Unsinkabear posted:

I posted at the beginning of this month about a friend being willing to sell me a lightly-used 2070 for $450, and the thread's opinion seemed to be that the market might shift but it was probably a good idea to take. I actually misunderstood and they're willing to give it to me for $400. How are things looking most of a month later, are card prices still turbofucked? Should I take that deal and figure out a box to put it in?

Yeah that's a good deal (still).

https://twitter.com/3DCenter_org/status/1417023903126343688?s=20

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

The Joe Man posted:

A good friend of mine won the Newegg shuffle twice and is now grabbing a 3080 and selling me his EVGA 3070TI at cost ($800).

He's only used it for like a couple weeks. I should jump on this, right? Upgrading from an MSI 1050TI which I can pop into the HTPC I never use.

HOWEVER, the only thing I'm really concerned about is idle noise since I do voiceover/recording work. Does anyone here have any personal experience with the EVGA 3070TI and the noise levels from it at idle? This one specifically:
https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-08g-p5-3797-kl/p/N82E16814487550

It's easy to isolate fan noise and a lot harder to get rid of coil whine so that's the question I'd be asking. But yeah cards don't just use one fan speed all the time so even if it was loud just turn that down.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I really don't think it would damage the cpu of it hadn't been flashed, it just wouldn't boot. It's up to you!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Blunt Instrument posted:

Could some kind goon soul give me a recommendation on a cookie cutter medium to higher end gaming PC build? I'm 100% out of the hardware loop now but am still leery of prebuilts out of habit and I'd like to avoid getting gouged in general.

Country: Finland
What I'd be using it for: gaming, photoshop, poo poo posting
Budget: $2100
Res / Refresh: I have a 144 hz monitor and would prefer to have that frame rate solidly for competitive games and 60+ for single player. I currently have no ambitions of going past 1080p but would prefer the liberty of changing my mind in the future.

So yeah basically something that'll allow me to have smooth and pretty visuals in current video games. I'd also prefer room to grow, i.e. I don't mind splooging a bit for components that are overkill for strictly 1080 if I get value out of it down the line.

Current rig is also a product of goon advice and the best one I've ever had, but it's finally breaking down after 10 years of service :patriot:

What GPU do you currently have? You're about to be told you can't upgrade it at the moment.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Yeah undervolt and see if it still crashes.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

LuckyCat posted:

It’s a 1080 ti. I will try undervolting it! Should I try like, 5% at a time or so and keep reducing until it stops crashing (if it stops crashing)?

I'd downclock it as well by like 100MHz if it keeps crashing once you've undervolted.

e: wait can you even enter negative clock offsets in afterburner?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

pisshead posted:

My new graphics card doesn't have DVI. Should I get HDMI or Display Port?

Whatever is fine since I'm guessing you don't have a monitor with different requirements or you wouldn't be in here asking about that! In rare cases you need to make sure you're using the appropriate HDMI/DP standard but I'm sure it's fine for normal use cases.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ghost Leviathan posted:

I need a bigger PC case that can actually fit all my poo poo in it. I know next to nothing about hardware. What's the standard sizes for PC cases and what should I be looking for if I'm running out of room in my current one?

If you're trying to add drives (the only thing I can imagine adding over time that might give you this problem) and don't have bays available anymore just use two sided tape and stick them wherever you want.

If there's some confusion here and your new GPU doesn't fit, just get a newish 'mid' tower case, it'll list the length of GPU it fits on the website and you can measure. If you're running out of spots to plug drives in, your motherboard is actually limiting you and not the case.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

barge posted:

I have a question that might be real dumb: I finally managed to get a GPU (gigabyte 3070 ti) but when I go to plug in the power cables one of them just won't fit into either of the 8 pin holes

I'm using the same 6+2 plug that was attached to my old card (and I've tried another pcie cable and it does the same thing) but it just stops halfway in. For both cables one of the 6+2 connectors will work in both holes but the other (which plugs in fine to my old card) just won't go in! I'm not talking about the plastic bits btw those line up fine

I just wanted to check to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious but I keep squinting at these identical plugs and I can't see anything that'd make a difference

Some of those plugs have little unique shapes to make sure the right thing is plugged into the right hole - maybe check that they are lining up appropriately. They aren't all rectangular.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

PittTheElder posted:

How necessary are aftermarket CPU coolers? Particularly if I'm not dealing with overclocking is it just overkill?

Depends on the use case and alternative. The AMD scythe cooler or whatever it's called is apparently fine, but the intel coolers tend to be pretty bad/loud.

A lot of this isn't about how much heat can be removed from the heat spreader, but rather at what decibel rating certain cooling targets are being reached. You might want to go aftermarket/AIO so that your case is quiet at normal gaming load and not pinned at 90% fan speed on stock cooler with one tiny fan.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

PittTheElder posted:

If you win one of these lotteries do you get to buy it at anything approaching MSRP?

I went into my local shop the other day, and was surprised to see they had a fair amount of stock of RTX30's on the shelf. They're just not listed online at all. I feel comfortable assuming they're priced absolutely ludicrously though as a result.

I thought the shuffle thing meant that you can buy a card as part of a bundle not by itself. That may have changed.

You should ask about pricing - they might be oblivious or good people either way take advantage I guess.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Enough people have posted about fan stuff or general first-time building that I think it's worth mentioning when you finish your build just power it on and off with the side off and make sure your fans are a) not hitting any cables and b) spinning in the directions you wanted them to.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Butterfly Valley posted:

As someone who only relatively recently got interested in PC building again I have no idea why there's even the concept of tribalism in the hobby. They're electronic parts, not sports teams, and there's numerous data available to make objective judgments about the quality of a certain product.

I don't think it's tribalism so much as 'I had a chevy once that kept breaking down so I'll never own one again' kind of thing. I had a couple AMD GPUs and catalyst control center was so frustrating to me that I won't touch ATI cards even 10 years later. I went for a gigabyte mobo for my 9900k when I was building that system up and I'm super disappointed with how lovely it is (BIOS randomly changes between two available BIOS, you can't change it by hand from one to the other, the eufi is unintuitive, the built-in sound card firmware is horrible, etc).

On the other side, I've RMA'd an EVGA product and had a great experience, they answer the phone when I call and I get to speak to a real human who seems to have every idea what they're talking about, I've had nothing but great experiences with EVGA so I have some degree of brand loyalty to them - they've earned it from me until they show me that something has changed.

AMD had straight up worse offerings for enthusiasts for a really long time so I think it's reasonable that people who don't spend a lot of time keeping up with stuff are reluctant to give them a shot.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Stormgale posted:

Dumb thermal paste question, I have a sealed tube of the noctua H1 stuff from my last build December 2019, that's still good to use right? it's just been sitting in the motherboard box sealed up tight.

Give it a shot, it should be okay but if it seems like it's seperated just toss it.

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