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future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

They detail it in the announcement article.

They also released today a new PWM fan that can run at 0% speed. The idea is to run the passive cooler, with some fans that sit at 0% unless absolutely needed, so you don’t run up against throttling situations.


It’s a bit niche so I’m surprised they made it, but it’s actually a really cool idea for sound sensitive applications such as audio and video recording, live streaming, broadcasting, etc.
That's how I run my 9900K's cooler. It's an old HR-02 that was designed for socket 1366 with huge fins. It has a fan attached but it doesn't turn on until 50C and even then it maxes out at 1K RPM.
Coolers with huge widely spaced fins like that will do OK with just case fans cooling it, but a low-speed fan is going to be recommended to avoid throttling at load. Not that it's at all the same component, but if this is anything like my cooler it probably won't respond well to high-speed or high-pressure fans due to the fin spacing. I tried a push-pull config on the old 2600K and it didn't make any difference other than raising the noise level.

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future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Furnaceface posted:

I hope this is the right thread to ask.

The last ~week when I do certain things my computer locks. One of the fans in the tower revs up to max and the screen goes black, but I still hear sound. Im 98% positive its my GPU, but that 2% thinks power supply (mostly because replacing a GPU right now is just loving yikes).
People above said it wasn't going to be the PSU, but I've seen black screens and max fan speeds in the past with an AMD GPU installed but insufficient power at load. What power supply are you using and how old is it?

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

skylined! posted:

So I had issues with two (2) AX1200i PSUs from Corsair. They sent a refurb the first time, and then were nice enough to honor a second RMA (after much complaining and sent a brand new RM1000x - the more recent model - in its place.

So I am a bit burnt on Corsair PSUs and am considering just getting a Seasonic 1000w instead and selling this thing. Wondering if anyone has any thoughts. It'd be about a $100 difference if I can sell the RM1000x for what they're going for on ebay.

edit my machine includes a 3080FE overclocked, a 9900k overclocked, liquid cooling loop, 8 fans, etc - 1000w is only slightly overkill.
You could get a platinum Super Flower unit for a quite a bit less than that braving Newegg. Either would be overkill but not by a tremendous amount, and worst case you will never have the fans run in eco mode. I have a similar system, albeit with a 2080ti, running on that PSU. Seasonic usually makes good equipment although I do not miss the electrical noise my last one had from day one.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva
There were some 750W and 850W PSUs which were hitting OCP limits with the higher end 3000 series cards. Seasonic at least revised a bunch of their units due to this occurring.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

LASER BEAM DREAM posted:

Speaking of, this guy just arrived at the door. Am I going to regret getting the KF version? I don't think I've used onboard graphics in 20 years.
I said the same thing until I had to RMA a videocard and suddenly had to rely on the onboard video.

I'm actually using the Intel GPU on my 9900k for a secondary monitor, as trying to run both it and my primary 165hz screen on my 2080ti causes it to never use low power states.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva
SilenX was infamous for lying about and inflating their fan ratings a decade ago. I guess it's nice that some things in the world haven't changed. IIRC they would rate based on absolutely no air resistance (if they bothered to test at all), and then also bloat their CFM values significantly beyond that. They would then use these made up values to justify jacking up their prices and use SEO and astroturfing to bury complaints. There's no chance their fans are performing anywhere close to their ratings.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

CapnAndy posted:

I think my graphics card is dying. It’s a GTX 760 so literally anything would be an upgrade, but am I hosed regardless or is there anything I can buy for a reasonable price while waiting for the market to unfuck itself?
I bought a 970 in early 2020 for $75, and they're going for $200+, so it kinda seems like you're hosed. My 2080ti is only going for a few hundred more than I bought it for last year though, so you might not hit as hard (relatively) if you go a bit up-market.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

The reason the 2080ti is going for only a few hundred over MSRP is because it was an overpriced, garbage card that barely surpassed the 1080Ti.

That’s nearly the price of a scalped 3070 which is nearly equal in performance with better DLSS and a longer warranty.
I didn't mean to imply it was a good deal then or now, just that some of the more expensive cards didn't/don't have as far for scalpers to raise pricing before it becomes untenable.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva
Run Latencymon and see if it lists any drivers causing unusually high DPC latency: https://www.resplendence.com/latencymon

What board is it?

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Surprise T Rex posted:

I'm on a Gigabyte Z690 Gaming X DDR4.

I ran LatencyMon and this is what I see - https://imgur.com/a/TjLXHwt - definitely seems to indicate this is the problem somehow, just that the internet seems to be littered with "Been trying to solve this for months" kind of posts.
Are you undervolting the CPU or GPU? Video, audio, and chipset drivers up to date? Do you see any WHEA errors in the Windows event logs?

Some other threads I'm seeing for wdf0100.sys calls indicate that Malwarebytes' old 2020 version or some AV scanners could be the cause. Might be a good idea to open a thread in the HOTS subforum.

future ghost fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jan 12, 2022

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Neo_Crimson posted:

I actually don't have a free M.2 slot. I'm mainly looking for an upgrade for this 2.5'' 250GB SSD that I've been using as a game drive. For that use case, does DRAM matter?
DRAM is actually more important for performance on SATA SSDs than for NVME. NVME drives can use system RAM as a dynamic cache.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

PIZZA.BAT posted:

The desktop puts such a minimal strain on the dGPU that's it's almost negligible though. I don't see why you would set it up that way unless you're trying to :awesome: and squeeze every last possible frame in a benchmark or something
I have to do this as connecting both my 165hz monitor and 60hz monitor to my 2080ti causes the card to ramp up clocks and make a bunch of heat for no discernable reason. Running the second monitor off of the igpu stops that poo poo immediately at the expense of a tiny slice of system RAM. Supposed to be a fixed issue, but the last time I tested it it was still happening. Only good thing about it is that having open active windows on the 60hz monitor doesn't seem to gently caress with gsync on the primary monitor this way.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva
Maybe it's gotten better, but when I first got the monitor the hwinfo readout on the second screen kept causing it to turn freesync off momentarily. I'm not 100% sure it was causal as I also turned off freesync for windowed apps around the same time as I started using the igpu.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva
If you want to clear out old device drivers from the previous install, do this: https://www.thewindowsclub.com/show-non-present-devices-windows. In devmgmt.msc set it to show hidden devices and remove non-present CPUs, NICs, what have you. For the GPU drivers you might want to use DDU and reinstall those, but I guess if it's not causing you any problems then maybe not.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Negative_Kittens posted:

I also have a 2600k, hyper 212, 4x4gb DDR3 and an antec nine hundred case lying around, but the motherboard for the 2600k is wonky and resets to its backup bios every 5 or so power ons, so I didn't consider it because that behavior is kinda scary. Would finding a used or junked mobo for the 2600k be more worthwhile than assembling the q6700 machine?
As someone who ran home servers on both a Q6600 and a 2600k build, unless you can get the board for free, sell all of the parts except the SSDs, GPU, and maybe the power supply. Use that to buy an older used workstation or a board and CPU combo, at least Skylake era. Decent Sandybridge motherboards are going to be hard to find at this point and those CPUs got hit hard by spectre/meltdown mitigations. The core2quad is going to use way too much power to be worth it - Even besides missing important CPU instructions they have fallen far behind the performance curve of most modern CPUs. I switched to a 6700/m.2 based home server after breaking down some dell precisions, and most everything I use it for performs better while using less power.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

DaveSauce posted:

Cool. Well, I hope so, at least.

On the subject, kind of: what sort of benchmark and stress testing are the cool kids doing these days? Is 3D Mark still relevant? And is there a "gently caress you CPU" test like prime95 used to be so I can see how my cooling works?
I like OCCT for quick checks and realbench for extended overall system checks.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Lord Stimperor posted:

Experts, is there a way to figure out the exact RAM sticks your system is using? I know that I have Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 16 modules. But even at 16 timing, I have a suspicion that there are several variants floating around.

Background is that I want to add memory to my system, and I'd like to have the exact same sticks in there.
HWInfo or an AIDA64 trial will tell you the modules in use. There are a few different types of LPX modules around. My original 16GB LPX sticks had different timings from anything currently available and had different XMP profiles.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Fozzy The Bear posted:

WTF, I must be too old school, integrated graphics have always been associated with cheap PCs. Thanks.
I use the integrated GPU on my system to shave off idle wattage for a second monitor. I started on my last card where having 1 screen at 165hz and the other at 60hz caused the card to ramp up. The difference on the newer card is significantly less but it still reduces idle power by about 10-15W.

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

WhiteHowler posted:

I'd be okay having the power button on the front with the I/O if it's not stupidly easy to accidentally hit.

It may be a non-factor for most PC cases, but the button on my Pro M is huge, right in the middle of the top, and has a hair-trigger.

Okay, as long as an adapter will work, that's fine. I'm not super attached my headset (a HyperX Cloud Mix that I got as a Christmas present) -- the fabric on the earcups is coming off, and the wires are getting frayed. But it's one of very few closed-ear headsets I've found that stays comfortable for more than 20 minutes at a time.

Thanks for the input. I'll spec out a build and post it here in the next couple of days.
On my Enthoo Pro (non-M) I have mapped the power button to the reset switch on the front as the cat realized that I make fun sounds when she presses the glowing light on the top of the warm box. I actually looked at aftermarket power switches until it dawned of me just to do that. It looks like your case has a reset (or is that LED?) switch on the left side so you could connect that to the power switch I/O connection.

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future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

WhiteHowler posted:

Interesting! I just checked, and it's both a button AND the HDD LED. Pressing it doesn't do anything, but it lights up during drive activity. I suspect either it's for controlling RGB stuff (I don't have any) or it's a reset button I never wired to the motherboard. My case didn't come with any documentation and most of the I/O panel cables were not labeled, so all of the cabling was done based on observation and past experience.

So I might pop my current PC open later and see if I can swap the power button over to that. It's out of the way and difficult to hit by accident.

Thanks!
Looks like a reset switch based on the manual at Phantek's site, so all you would need to do is power it off and connect the Reset SW cable to your motherboard's PWR switch connectors. The polarity of the switch/connector might not be clearly marked but for that switch type it wouldn't matter.

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