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Deviant posted:any advice for silk filaments? hoping to use an elegoo silk metallic silver in my experience it prints pretty much like any other pla except with worse overall strength and layer adhesion. pretty though!
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Mar 20, 2024 16:28
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Good news for Prusa MK3.5 users: new firmware dropped today. Main changes are: adds bed level correction, adds Revo support, and fixes a nasty bug where mesh bed leveling didn’t work as intended. https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v5.2.2 Seems like this is the first decent firmware release.
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Mar 20, 2024 16:29
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Deviant posted:any advice for silk filaments? hoping to use an elegoo silk metallic silver I had to slow the mk4 down a lot. Otherwise it's pretty much like PLA.
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Mar 20, 2024 16:33
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:in my experience it prints pretty much like any other pla except with worse overall strength and layer adhesion. pretty though! Same here. Also bunches up in weird ways when it purges (you get more of a short/fat slug looking thing than a thin string of filament).
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Mar 20, 2024 16:37
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:in my experience it prints pretty much like any other pla except with worse overall strength and layer adhesion. pretty though! I’ve found it looks like poo poo on the top layer with low infil or low top layers.
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Mar 20, 2024 16:48
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I’ve found it looks like poo poo on the top layer with low infil or low top layers. this won't be a concern for the project i have in mind, but noted.
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Mar 20, 2024 16:54
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I've reactivated my 3D printer after more than a year of catching dust. I've always been printing ABS/ASA just fine at 200mm/s with this 30W heater cartridge from E3D in a Dragon non-HF but with a CHF. Never seen it balk at that. Now I've been doing PLA parts, at up to 200mm/s, because I can't be assed with ASA right now, and the hotend seems pretty overwhelmed. With open chamber at normal print, the average PWM duty cycle of the heater is at like 85-90%. And god forbid the part fan needs to crank up. It's been doing a larger surface bridge infill earlier, where the 100% fan dropped hotend temps from 205°C down to 191°C at its worst. Like what the gently caress even  Time for some new parts that I'll probably not use for the next while. I still have an unused Revo HF single nozzle kit here, with that 60W heater. But the nozzle is 0.6mm, I want 0.4mm instead. But HF for better polymer chain melting bullshit (according to CNC Kitchen). --edit: Obxidian HF Revo nozzle, 64€ a pop, lol. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Mar 20, 2024 |
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Mar 20, 2024 20:22
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I understood some of those words.
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Mar 20, 2024 20:50
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Has anyone suggested ditching that white filament? I’ve never used it but it’s supposed to be the worst colour to print with if I’m not mistaken. If this fixes it, i'm gonna be so annoyed... That being said, adjusting flow rate and temp has done a lot to help.
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Mar 20, 2024 20:53
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smax posted:Good news for Prusa MK3.5 users: new firmware dropped today. Main changes are: adds bed level correction, adds Revo support, and fixes a nasty bug where mesh bed leveling didn’t work as intended. Oh, nice. I got the kit last week, but I've been waiting for this new firmware before I dismantle my printer to do the upgrade. Here's hoping they squashed all the bugs right away! My bed got significantly more crooked when I move across the country, so maybe this dismantle would be a good time to play around with some thin washers and try and get it a bit flatter...
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Mar 20, 2024 21:05
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Bobulus posted:My bed got significantly more crooked when I move across the country, so maybe this dismantle would be a good time to play around with some thin washers and try and get it a bit flatter... Part of the upgrade is re-mounting the bed on new expansion joints, so you'll be yanking the whole bed off anyway. Currently I don't know if there's an easy way to pull an output showing the mesh values to check how flat it is. I haven't had a problem with my bed seeming significantly off, but I don't have any measurements to back that up.
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Mar 21, 2024 03:13
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smax posted:Part of the upgrade is re-mounting the bed on new expansion joints, so you'll be yanking the whole bed off anyway. Currently I don't know if there's an easy way to pull an output showing the mesh values to check how flat it is. I haven't had a problem with my bed seeming significantly off, but I don't have any measurements to back that up. I'm using an extension in octoprint that can do the 3x3 or 7x7 leveling scan and convert the output to a graphical format. It was pretty drat flat a year ago, but now... So, yeah, another reason to do this upgrade.
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Mar 21, 2024 14:20
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Well, I was *going* to upgrade my MK3S to a MK4, but I see now the kit isn't that much cheaper, and you don't get the frame upgrade, plus you have to print the parts yourself. I'd *like* to get A MK4 but then the question of what to do with the MK3S? or should i just change the mk3s out to a .6 nozzle and have it for a rapid fire work horse while the x1c does the precision jobs? Maybe not a full upgrade? Just the MK3.5 or so?
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Mar 22, 2024 00:55
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Deviant posted:Well, I was *going* to upgrade my MK3S to a MK4, but I see now the kit isn't that much cheaper, and you don't get the frame upgrade, plus you have to print the parts yourself. I’m pretty happy with my MK3.5 + Revo. All the speed of a MK4, less cost, easy nozzle changes. For a budget approach, someone just posted a how-to in the prusa3d Reddit for setting up Klinker to run Input Shaping using the Prusa MK3.5 presets on a MK3S+.
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Mar 22, 2024 01:03
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i started reading that guide and my eyes glazed over immediately. i'll upgrade it to a 3.5 and put a regular 0.6 nozzle in it for big/fast parts or i'll just leave it alone.
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Mar 22, 2024 01:12
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All this talk about upgrading 3D printers is interesting to a newbie like me. Someone please tell me, just how modular are 3D printers? Are they as modular as PCs?
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Mar 22, 2024 01:15
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kid sinister posted:All this talk about upgrading 3D printers is interesting to a newbie like me. Someone please tell me, just how modular are 3D printers? Are they as modular as PCs? Not really. Only Prusa has an upgrade pathway, really. You can absolutely change parts out if you know how they go together, but I wouldn't call them modular.
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Mar 22, 2024 01:16
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kid sinister posted:All this talk about upgrading 3D printers is interesting to a newbie like me. Someone please tell me, just how modular are 3D printers? Are they as modular as PCs? It's modular in a lot of ways, but you really have to be into fuckin around with wiring components together, changing configs etc on a level you don't with a pc
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Mar 22, 2024 01:47
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Also the upgrade from a Mark 3 to a Mark 4, if you get the full kit, is replacing every part except the metal frame and some of the bearings.
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Mar 22, 2024 02:07
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Deviant posted:I'd *like* to get A MK4 but then the question of what to do with the MK3S? I would be happy to relieve you of your MK3S problem. You don't have to thank me.
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Mar 22, 2024 04:10
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kid sinister posted:All this talk about upgrading 3D printers is interesting to a newbie like me. Someone please tell me, just how modular are 3D printers? Are they as modular as PCs? No, but they can print their own adapters and mounts for things, which helps. It depends what your printer is as well, an ender style bed slinger with v-slot extrusions is such a common design that there's a whole ecosystem of stuff that'll mostly fit. Not so much with newer CoreXY stuff or proprietary Bambu Labs machines, and resin modding is not really a thing at all.
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Mar 22, 2024 05:32
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kid sinister posted:All this talk about upgrading 3D printers is interesting to a newbie like me. Someone please tell me, just how modular are 3D printers? Are they as modular as PCs? TL;DR: Printers share a lot in common with PC's, when it comes to upgrading. WELLL.... Most 3d printers are kinda industrial lego. They're assembled by the same raw stock that builds ~the other things in your life~. Being plebes we run into industrial lego mostly in "actual printers" and at arcades. The rails, slides, pulleys, belts, that you see running your local toy grab machine, are all "general industrial hardware". In industry, and at schools, you'll see lots of things made of aluminum extrusion. Many printers are made of those too. That's generally called out by it's size. 1515 (15mmx15mm) 2020, 4040, 2040, etc.. Stepper drivers are another "industrial lego" thing. That said, most printers use "specifically for 3d printing" drivers now. And at that, some people are using 3d printing stuff for CNC now! The motors are almost universally of the standard "nema" series stepper motors. You can just say "nema 21" motor to McMaster, or whatever, and you'll get parts back. Most printers use Nema 17 and Nema 14 motors. Extruders (until six months or so ago) were mostly separate from the printer itself, so you could pick and choose what you liked there. You can still print adapters to use your favorite plastic pusher with whatever hot end you're using. Hot ends are a much more complex subject. There's a few "standard" sizes, and lots of upgrade parts you can get for each sort of hot end. In general, if you can't melt plastic fast enough, there are things you can do to melt more plastic faster. Now, because you "can" doesn't mean you "should". The industrial lego bit means you can find the parts. If what you're thinking of doing is acutally fundamentally better, is.. rarely the case. However, that's a much, much, longer story.
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Mar 22, 2024 06:59
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kid sinister posted:All this talk about upgrading 3D printers is interesting to a newbie like me. Someone please tell me, just how modular are 3D printers? Are they as modular as PCs? I ended up printing and buying some upgrades to my Neptune 2s; an improved fan shroud, a better hotend assembly, a BLTOUCH for leveling. A basic understanding of electronics and a willingness to compile your own firmware code will take you far with an Ender 3-alike. But I got to the point where there's nothing else I can improve easily, and I want that sweet AMS, so I have a P1S on the way. I will say Elegoo was a treat to work with when I needed to; they shipped me a whole new dang mainboard after I lost a MOSFET on the original, even though I was months out of warranty.
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Mar 22, 2024 07:03
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I happen to have a very old MakerGear M2 with a dual nozzle upgrade that never actually worked after the upgrade (I must have hosed up). I ALSO have a grab-bag of stuff I got from an estate sale where the guy was apparently trying to build a 3d printer, including a RAMPs based control board, stepper motors, motor drivers, power supplies, etc. What are the odds I could build something semi-useful out of this? I'm currently enjoying my Prusa Mini+ which mostly just works, but it'd be neat to have a dual head printer around for novelty. 5TonsOfFlax fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 22, 2024 07:42
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5TonsOfFlax posted:I happen to have a very old MakerGear M2 with a dual nozzle upgrade that never actually worked after the upgrade (I must have hosed up). I ALSO have a grab-bag of stuff I got from an estate sale where the guy was apparently trying to build a 3d printer, including a RAMPs based control board, stepper motors, motor drivers, power supplies, etc. What are the odds I could build something semi-useful out of this? If you're asking.... You're probally going to end up blowing a lot more money than just "doing it some sane way". I bet, if you put the list of parts here, we could come up with some sort of plan... Speaking of plans. Guess who bought two Ender 3's. Guess who's gonna rip the gantry off an Ender 3, and put it on the other ender 3... so I can have an IDEX printer... :-) ............... anyone want some ender 3 displays?
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Mar 22, 2024 07:58
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A wild Voron enters the chat about upgradability and modularity lol
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Mar 22, 2024 12:53
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5TonsOfFlax posted:MakerGear M2 with a dual nozzle upgrade that never actually worked after the upgrade (I must have hosed up). Oof, talk about expensive, assuming you didn't get them *way* after their initial popularity. They were supposed to be workhorses back when the metric wasn't reset by the MK3. Edit: Speaking of expensive: https://www.tomshardware.com/3d-printing/original-prusa-xl-review Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 22, 2024 14:49
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Oof, talk about expensive, assuming you didn't get them *way* after their initial popularity. Yep, I overpaid and was in over my head. Probably the only reason I bothered taking it when I moved across the country. But now it seems like it might be a great basis for tinkering.
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Mar 22, 2024 16:59
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Goddamn is prusament PC-CF such a nice filament  
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Mar 22, 2024 18:23
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So, I'm looking to get back into 3D printing after a hiatus, want to try resin printing, and I'm wondering what the general consensus is on the Saturn 3 around here. Coming from a Sovol SV01, I'd like something slightly lower maintenance since I was constantly having to fix stuff on it and it's a big part of the reason I took a break. I was also leaning toward the Saturn Ultra but a review I watched said the fresnel lens in the regular Saturn 3 was better than the lens in the Ultra and that coupled with the Ultra being around $150-200 more made me rethink it.
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Mar 23, 2024 08:00
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Resin printers really don't require much maintenance beyond making sure your FEP/ACF (the plastic sheet that makes up the bottom of the resin vat) is good. It shouldn't have too many dings and scrapes or be too scuffed up. Beyond that, you might need to lube the linear rails and ball/lead screw that make up the Z tower every... I dunno, 3 years? Honestly, the only time I've ever had to replace parts was due to my own fuckups damaging them. Screens and lights can die but that's pretty rare. Definitely not as much fiddling as FDM printers. The Saturn 3 series are very highly regarded as good entry/mid-level printers and should serve you well without too many headaches as Elegoo has legendarily good customer service if there is a problem.
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Mar 23, 2024 08:43
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1.5 months later and I'm finally done with tuning my k2max. The damage and financial report is quite extensive, ranging from the new PEI sheet and printhead to 2 noctua fans (stock ones are insanely loud), tools, consumables, disassembling the entire printer around 5 times because I trammed the gantry incorrectly and made all the mistakes I could. Most of the issues were on me, other than things like accelerometer not responding due to most likely cable or motherboard. Main board fan bearings immediately giving out and me having to lube brand new fan. Not to mention anycubic firmware breaking z offset so hard that nozzles are slamming into the bed during ABL because the sensor had to be moved. (Not just me here, really was the firmware) TLDR that I said before: stay far far away, I have spent what the printer is worth on the actual fixing and upgrades so far. On the bright side I'm now an expert on this particular printer 
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Mar 23, 2024 09:07
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Oh wise 3d printing goons, I come to you to help troubleshoot an issue that's been driving me bonkers for days. Printer: Qidi X Max 3 (About a month old) Filament: So far issue has happened across "Easy Print PETG" as well as Qidi PETG and Qidi Odorless ABS. Slicer: Qidislicer (which is based on prusaslicer) and Orcaslicer Temp: Variety of temps suitable for different filaments, from 230-270 nozzle, bed 80-100. Chamber temp of 55 for ABS doesn't seem to affect issue. Layer Height: 0.25 Speed: Issue occurs even when printing slowly at 30mm/s and doesn't seem affected when printing much faster. Retraction settings: everything from 0-4mm retraction, 10mm/s and 60mm/s speed. (If this problem is to do with retraction, turning retractions off should make it better/worse, right?) Nozzle: 0.6mm Hardened Steel. (Problem still persisted when swapping to 0.4mm)  I'm having issues with really dodgy seams at the end of the outer perimeter, particularly on corners or overhangs (and extra with overhanging corners). It's like maybe the end is getting ripped away when the nozzle moves off? Or maybe just underextruding for this specific bit? I've made a print of square/round straight/overhang shapes to demonstrate the problem.  Straight and Round. Not bad. Possibly just loss of detail due to 0.6mm nozzle?  Round Overhang.  Straight Square  Overhang Square The closest thing I've got to a clue at this point is noticing when I'm changing filament if I'm pulling on the filament there's noticeably more friction than when I freshly thread the filament through the tubing? Turning Z-Hop off also doesn't seem to help the issue. (I'm currently doing another test print with retraction turned off completely to double check this) Problem persists using Arachne or classic perimeters. I've done temperature towers and pretty sure I'm printing at the right temp. I did the pressure advance tower test in orcaslicer and my value seems to be correct. Gridfinity box printed in PETG which started all this: 
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Mar 24, 2024 03:54
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There definitely seems to be some issues with overextruding, but I don't know if it would cause that pocking during layer change. It also seems like it could be backlash on the extruder gears. Edit: also just noticed how the gridfinity has a tiny bit of uneven layers on that edge, make sure the belts are tight. Edit: another thing may be pressure advance if it's waaay off. deimos fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Mar 24, 2024 |
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Mar 24, 2024 05:09
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deimos posted:There definitely seems to be some issues with overextruding, but I don't know if it would cause that pocking during layer change. It also seems like it could be backlash on the extruder gears. Thanks for the help, extruder backlash is something I haven't heard of before I'll start doing some research on it.  I've been using a Prusa Mk3s with octopi for years, so I'm new to the latest stuff like klipper and pressure advance and vibration compensation etc. I did a pressure advance test, Got the filament's value set to 0.021 atm and in Klipper pressure advance is set to 0.032. From the looks of the test, this seems to be in the right ballpark, although there are noticeable gaps where the line starts on the left. I'm running a flow rate calibration now to see if that helps. I also just noticed that the setting for nozzle size in klipper is still set to 0.4, although it is set correctly in the slicer. I'll fix this up but doubt it's what's causing the issue. Something that seems odd to me which could be related is when I first load the filament in I get the same slight oozing out the nozzle like I'd expect. On subsequent prints though, there doesn't seem to be any oozing at all and I don't need to do the old "wait with tweezers to pinch it off just before the print starts" like on my prusa. I wonder if this could be related to some kind of pressure issue causing inconsistent extrusions?
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Mar 24, 2024 06:09
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Hello all. The section in the OP is a few years out of date, so I wanted to ask if someone could help me in choosing a PLA 3D printer. I have about $350 or so in my budget for one. I've never had a 3d printer before. Well, technically, I was given a resin one as a gift, but I never took it out of the box and will probably end up selling it. As far as what I'm looking for, I guess I'd prefer if it was enclosed rather than not but that's not a hard and fast thing. Really, this is the main reason I want one: https://www.toymakr3d.com/product/89-ironshell I'm not sure if anything I can afford can make something like that, but that's where you guys come in I suppose! Help me out or talk me off the ledge, either or. MinionOfCthulhu fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Mar 24, 2024 |
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Mar 24, 2024 12:36
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Hello all. The section in the OP is a few years out of date, so I wanted to ask if someone could help me in choosing a PLA 3D printer. I have about $350 or so in my budget for one. I've never had a 3d printer before. Well, technically, I was given a resin one as a gift, but I never took it out of the box and will probably end up selling it. I went off that list among some others, it seems relatively unbiased.
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Mar 24, 2024 13:33
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Is your detraction setting different from retraction? That could explain the bite it is taking out of the edges. At least that's what I'd use if I wanted my prints to look like this. Extruder gear slipping on the axle? Extruder gear worn in some places more than others? Extruder spring not pushing hard enough? If you push and pull the filament, it shouldn't move at all. Extruder spring pushing too hard? A gap between the nozzle and the heatbreak? If some filament sits in there it has all kind of fun influence. If there is no constant pressure for like a vase or big area, you'll notice it the most. Could be detected by using another filament, let it sit heated for a while, push pull on the filament a few times, pull it out and check for another color or cooked/burnt bits. Also more pictures might help, even from the sides where you feel the benchy looks fine. Just dump everything related into an imgur album or something.
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Mar 24, 2024 16:44
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Anyone here using these "obxidian" Revo nozzles? Or even regular ones with that stuff? Is the non-stick coating giving you any noticeable advantages?
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Mar 24, 2024 19:51
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Combat Pretzel posted:Anyone here using these "obxidian" Revo nozzles? Or even regular ones with that stuff? Is the non-stick coating giving you any noticeable advantages? There was someone here who only uses them AFAIK because you buy one nozzle ever and that’s it. Can’t remember who it is, though.
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Mar 25, 2024 08:50
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