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Prusaslicer is really nice most of the time but God drat it's loving awful at dialing in supports. Also fan/bridge/overhang settings, but that's another post. Little tiny part, 0.12 layers, max/min on the printer tab is set to .24 maximum layer and Prusaslicer insists on making GBS threads out a 0.4mm layer support. Contact Z distance changes nothing unless it's 0. Gonna make me launch Cura again for the first time in months.  e:  Detect bridging perimeters was somehow creating a massive first layer on an overhang.. Because that's really a spectacular way to start an overhang??  Also pictured, the stupid as hell first layer they still haven't fixed from the Slic3r days. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 01:27
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Hadlock posted:Prusa people swear by them, but I just can't see the difference in quality. My guess is that PLA filament got better, as did the slicers, and Prusa others owners haven't seen a modern consumer printer for several years It's both of these things, as well as the market expanding and generally congealing around similar designs. 10 years ago, building a printer from scratch (or designing and producing a 3D printer to sell on Aliexpress or whatever) was very difficult. Today it's just off the shelf parts of varying quality and consistency. The Prusa is a more robust design and better quality control, but the end result is the same between a happy healthy Prusa and a happy healthy *literally any decent modern printer*
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Sep 4, 2021 01:51
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9peACH52KTo It's a little cheaper than I expected. Lots of cool features that already exist in the 3d printing world, but not so (presumably) well integrated. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Nov 18, 2021 |
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Nov 18, 2021 16:59
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Toolchanger is awesome (and again, their implementation of it will be the best available to normal people), the little QOL features are all great and hopefully trickle down to the rest of their printers (and the rest of the market). I do hope they have an enclosure addon. It's still full of printed parts and presumably they're all PETG, but it would at least be capable of passive heating from the bed and do fairly large ABS prints without a problem. Beyond printers being Not poo poo, I think one of the next real steps forwards is bringing higher temp filaments to normal people to hopefully encourage printers to be more useful.
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Nov 18, 2021 17:18
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I've had a clog in a nozzle x, but also, buy a nozzle x or other high quality nozzle. It's not worth saving  and cheaping out on arguably the most critical component in the extrusion.e: except ruby, don't buy a ruby nozzle.
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Dec 3, 2021 16:20
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Ghostnuke posted:I'm just using the E3D branded brass ones so far Also totally fine, assuming you're using normal filaments in normal hobbyist quantities. It's the 10 pack of 0.4mm with a weird name on Amazon for $8 that are the real problem.
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Dec 3, 2021 17:01
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After about 2 years, I'm moving on from my gigantic corexy printer and Just Getting a Prusa to reduce the space, noise, etc taken up by printer stuff. It takes an obnoxious amount of care and feeding to maintain my big printer. 100c heated enclosure is pretty gnarly business, and I've gone so far towards engineering filaments (dumb term) that I can't even print PLA easily anymore because I don't have enough part cooling.
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Jan 13, 2022 23:38
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Also, try Cura. Prusaslicer is still only mediocre on supports, Cura is far more tune-able.
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Jan 18, 2022 00:29
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ToxicFrog posted:So even though I already have a printer, I took a glance at that because I was curious, and I saw this worrying note: You're safe. The Prusa uses PTFE on the cold side of the heat break. That post applies to the Mk8 style hotend where the ptfe sits directly against the nozzle. e: my brain missed the e2:
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Jan 20, 2022 01:46
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I didn't know the EAA thing stopped. That's sad. The new subscription looks like it's cloud only, which is... Dissatisfying. E: it also looks like the maker version is Very Not Great compared to the educational version. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jan 28, 2022 |
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Jan 28, 2022 21:52
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I don't find the editable documents thing to be a problem (for me) because it's like 2 clicks to swap between editable and non editable. The one that's really irritating for me is they killed a ton of import/export formats. Killing a ton of CAM features is probably the biggest thing they've done, as well as not putting any of the new mesh stuff in the free version. I really just wish they'd introduce the ability to buy time on features or a non-commercial license for a similar cost to the Solidworks version.
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Jan 29, 2022 01:16
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SpartanIvy posted:I love Jessie Filament's PLA from Printed Solid. Way better than any of the cheap brans I've gotten from Amazon. This is the way. There's really no reason to buy filament from random overseas brands that come and go on Amazon. Requoting this from the old thread Hypnolobster posted:Jessie PLA from printed solid, IC3D for ABS or PETG, Atomic for the same any techier filled ABS/PETG filaments. Taulman for nylon and PC.
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Jan 30, 2022 02:23
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Prusaslicer has open feature requests and issues from ~4 years ago that haven't been touched, and a lot of them are fixed in superslicer. Honestly I think it's worth getting to know all the big slicers because they have fairly distinct strengths and weaknesses. If just one works for you all the time, that's awesome but that's certainly not the case for me. e: I'm still mad that Kisslicer is more or less abandoned, and equally mad that other slicers haven't taken the Kisslicer approach to seams. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Feb 4, 2022 |
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Feb 4, 2022 14:35
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Droogie posted:At the risk of causing another fight in this thread, who is your US go-to non-amazon filament place? I don't want to fund more dick rockets for that bald gently caress with my like 25 dollar purchases. Hypnolobster posted:Jessie PLA from printed solid, IC3D for ABS or PETG, Atomic for the same any techier filled ABS/PETG filaments. Taulman for nylon and PC. There's also a lot of overlap from these brands (most of them have PLA, for example), and tons and tons of others, but these are the ones I swear by as extremely consistent and good companies to support.
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Feb 5, 2022 00:19
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Having built a 350x350x400 printer, don't build a big printer unless you actually need to constantly print things that push its limits. Build like a 200 cube instead, it's better in every single way (except that it's only 200 cube).
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Feb 6, 2022 15:40
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I would have waited a
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Feb 7, 2022 23:28
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Talorat posted:Does anyone have a good brand recommendation for transparent PLA? The Hatchbox stuff is pretty bad, even though the rest of their filament is really good, the transparent stuff is brittle and breaks all the time. https://atomicfilament.com/collections/translucent-pla/products/natural-pla-filament But as said above, it's never going to be actually translucent. Still a nice look though.
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Feb 9, 2022 15:05
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Nerobro posted:Nero gets his V0 printing. It runs for 10 hours of printing then something in the gantry starts screaming. He worries something is wrong with his linear rails. Then something binds up entirely, and there's 50mm of lost steps. He's been bitten by the cheap toothed idlers. I learned the hard way that inexpensive idlers are not worth it. I eventually ordered gates (supposedly) idlers from Filastruder. I have doubts about those too, but they've been good for probably 30kg of filament so I can't complain.
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Feb 17, 2022 01:15
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What are my odds of getting a heating pad off my stock bed and being able to apply it to a new bed with the adhesive still working well? Unsure how tolerant the adhesives are to removal and reapplication. The adhesive and really really perfect contact with the bed is what keeps the heater from getting hot spots and burning out (or catching on fire if things go very badly), and the kind of peeling needed to remove it would probably kill it anyways. New is the only way to go.
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Feb 17, 2022 01:49
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I bought and assembled an evangelists-boat-maker. Can confirm that it does Just Work but jesus christ what a convoluted mess in terms of design. After spending a year playing with a big simple corexy printer with a BMG-M, Mosquito and berd air cooling, every extruder/hotend/carriage seems way overdesigned. Although admittedly my corexy is so far into the ridiculously hot enclosure realm that I can't even print PLA anymore because I can't cool it enough. look, boat
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Feb 17, 2022 23:36
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If you're printing on textured PEI, PETG needs an ultra clean plate and to be just baaarely too far from the bed (compared with what you might do on a smooth plate with PLA, for example). You want great adhesion, but also enough room that the second layer isn't messy at all. It's sort of a weird balance.
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Feb 19, 2022 23:02
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Power off resume is only vaguely functional. Even if the firmware side works perfectly, it's still going to end up with the print falling off the build plate (or being yanked off by the nozzle that's partially melted a little volcano in the print). Not that there aren't success stories, but it's always going to turn into a worse print that potentially wastes a bunch of filament as well as time. I use a UPS, it's a giant Eaton that I got cheap and replaced the battery. Just about any UPS is going to be helpful for a printer, though the bigger the better.
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Mar 5, 2022 21:23
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Also for any structural and simple parts, get a bigger nozzle! You can double the wall thickness and print in the same amount of time with a 0.8mm nozzle (and it will be arguably stronger than the same wall thickness printed with a 0.4mm nozzle as a result of wider single lines). 0.4mm nozzles as the 'standard' is silly and weird and I maintain that everybody should be swapping nozzles, particularly on functional parts.
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Mar 20, 2022 04:26
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They're actually (probably) on there, just not easily searchable. I printed a whole bunch of dick valve stem caps. It was fun, would recommend printing dicks. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3930464
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Apr 22, 2022 18:57
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Prusa released a $350 box. It's very nice, but also it's a box.* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lkzlZTeIOQ https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-enclosure-3/ *with some optional but cool accessories, but also it's just a box
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May 5, 2022 19:56
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Yeah, it's basically perfect. I wouldn't mess with anything, just start printing the things you want to print.
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May 19, 2022 23:45
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Marsupial Ape posted:What did I gently caress up that Cora is now opening every STL file as a tiny pin prick model? They're probably files that are saved as inch measurements instead of mm. Apparently they still haven't implemented some detection that fixes that problem (which most other slicers have). The problem is that .stl files don't have a unit specified, and all slicers assume mm. e: this is why stl should be banished forevermore and everyone should switch to 3mf
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May 20, 2022 05:24
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Taulman might not know how to spell, but they sure as poo poo know how to make really goddamn good filament. Also fire, maybe.
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Jul 7, 2022 22:17
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The PrusaSlicer 2.5 alpha is out and they've started using Cura's arachne engine. Made a pretty dramatic improvement in the quality of some of the small parts I've been printing lately. Check out the jump in line width on the top of the part. 
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Jul 23, 2022 17:46
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Hadlock posted:Is there a write up somewhere with the technical details on why they're switching engines? Just the slicing engine for perimeters. Cura came out with Arachne last year. As far as I understand it, it handles details by changing extrusion width when necessary. Older slicers have always just skipped lines that are too small, only printing things that are 2+ walls thick. The "print thin lines" options tried to force single wall extrusions, but the joint between a single wall extrusion and the rest of the print has always been awful. That's also how you get those really weird infill sections on prints that are ~2.5 ish walls thick. It does more things, here's Prusa's post and one of Cura's posts about it. https://ultimaker.com/learn/3d-printing-revolution-continues-second-beta-for-ultimaker-cura-arachne https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/prusaslicer/prusaslicer-2-5-0-alpha2-is-out/ It's also hilarious to me that they're finally implementing something like Kisslicer's preload, about 5 years later. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Jul 23, 2022 |
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Jul 23, 2022 17:58
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TerminalSaint posted:Looks like the upper frame and y carriage (seen in the video) have been rigidized. Prusa seems like they're being coy about if the upgrade kits include the improved frame.
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Mar 29, 2023 23:15
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It really seems like the Prusa upgrade kits aren't a great deal. $850 on a new Prusa Mk4 kit, or $640* on the Mk4 upgrade kit. I'm pretty confident I can sell my Mk3s locally for more than the difference between the two and not be missing the couple small differences that make an upgrade not quite the same as a new Mk4. *shipping is expensive
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Apr 14, 2023 15:17
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Son of Rodney posted:And while I'm at it, one beginner mistake I made was buy a super cheapo caliper with only one decimal so I'd like a somewhat usable upgrade, is there anything below mitutoyo that people concider perfectly fine for printing? I've heard many opinions about it, so I really dunno anymore. https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS Both great, I've got 2 pairs of each of these and they don't eat batteries and are nice and reliable.
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Apr 19, 2023 15:48
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It's the nozzles fault. Try turning the hotend temp up (because steel is much less conductive than brass), but mostly try just putting the brass nozzle back on unless you need to print abrasive filaments.
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Apr 20, 2023 12:02
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That looks like normal marble PLA, which is typically* non-abrasive. *in my experience, at least.
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Apr 20, 2023 13:31
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*with a build-sheet-only brush or sponge! I use scotch brite sponges, usually the gentle non-scratching variety. If you use what you've got in the sink already, it's more likely to contaminate the build sheet and continue being frustrating. Good dish soap, hot water, and scrub the plate really well in two directions, rinse it off and check that it mostly passes the water break test.  That's what I do every 20-30 prints. The only time I even bother using isopropyl is to remove dust from the build sheet. If you're strict about never actually touching the build surface, it'll keep working really well for a long time. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Apr 21, 2023 |
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Apr 21, 2023 11:07
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I think what you're running into is the pretty standard crappy adhesion that PLA has on textured plates. They've sort of been marketed as a catch-all build surface, but they're really pretty crap with PLA. Excellent with PETG and flexible filaments, but they're not too great with anything else.
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Apr 27, 2023 13:14
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Uh, yeah while the printer and slicer both need zero to be zero, the "start of the print" when it's actually extruding the first layer is 0 + layer height. This is only confusing because there are hundreds of thousands of Ender's and similar out in the world where everybody is 'leveling' the bed with a piece of paper when the printer is at z0.
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Jun 15, 2023 02:05
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I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't find that PLA has particularly great adhesion on textured PEI. That also seems like a potential bed heat issue, as PLA shouldn't really warp *that* badly. It can, but only in pretty weird circumstances.
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Jul 7, 2023 21:18
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Dumping some dumb recent functional prints because it's the thing printers are really good at and I like to evangelize it. 12v plug broke and lost the contact tip, spring, and the threaded collar. Stuck a hex bit and a ball point pen spring in it while I was in the field, and then quickly printed out a little collar with a recess that I pressed in. Fixed pretty much forever now.   I actually started selling these a few months ago. Soda/water bottle threads, used to maintain water level for carnivorous plants (or any other plant that likes to be flooded). Sold 8 through etsy so far with no real advertising. Niche thing, but it's pretty cool anyways.  TPU clamp pads, been using the hell out of them since, no problem at all. Jorgensen/Pony doesn't sell replacement pads for the big HD clamps, and nobody seemed to have modeled the big ones yet.  These little rolls of stretch wrap at Home Depot are great but the handles are trash. Don't spin, fall off, etc. Makes it really infuriating. Fixed it by sitting in front of a computer for 30 minutes and now it's never irritating again. Printed a few for my dad too, and a few for myself since I use stretch wrap pretty regularly in the woodshop as well as in the other-shop. It's handy for keeping project related things stuck together for storage.
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Aug 12, 2023 23:07
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