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csammis posted:--- This post reserved for 3D printer recommendations --- Can you afford a Prusa? Get a Prusa If not, Can you wait two months for a Prusa mini? Get a Prusa mini. If not, can you swing an Ender3 pro? Get an ender3 pro If not, get an Ender3 I think that is the complete newbie rundown for FDM at least For resin it’s like uh “Pick the one that looks the coolest from the Elegoo, Photon, Phrozen lineup”
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Jul 19, 2021 15:07
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I am a bold and risky man and have been doing most of my resin work with only one glove on
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Jul 22, 2021 14:43
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BMan posted:do not attempt to create 3D printable models with sketchup As someone who learned sketchup because woodworking and refuses to learn a second program Jesus Christ do not learn sketchup
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Jul 27, 2021 06:07
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Deviant posted:same goddamn results with glue, and now i got that to clean off the loving bed. Print this and adjust z until you’re within like 0.01 tolerance https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/25261-first-layer-calibration-test
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Aug 3, 2021 17:15
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Deviant posted:Okay, so my calipers only go to .1 increments, but I printed that and got That’s right, yeah And then repeat
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Aug 3, 2021 17:46
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There is a plug-in for octoprint that will give you a nice 3d render of how out of level your bed is Bed Visualizer, maybe?
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Aug 16, 2021 21:51
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:I think this winter I am going to finally pull the trigger and get into 3D printing. I'm mostly aiming to produce fairly simple stuff for personal use in woodworking and small electronics (jigs, dust management parts, enclosures, etc.) I'm proficient in Blender and Sketchup (for what that's worth), but should I be setting time/money aside from eg. Fusion 360 or Solidworks? Fwiw, I use sketchup because I didn’t want to learn another piece of software. I’m able to do some basic bits and boxes and even a couple of neat things, but trust me you want a much much better tool for the job.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:35
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Putty posted:Anyone have recommendations for a transparent colorless PLA? Working on a project where I'll need to light up small parts from behind with LEDs. Been looking at comparisons on Greybeard3D but am indecisive on it. A bit of fogginess is ok. You’re going to do a lot better with PETG over PLA for one Max infill or 0 infill, minimum layer height, there’s a lot of small things that add up Here’s a video from prusa! https://youtu.be/SmbAlTxLbg0
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Nov 8, 2021 21:34
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I have been experimenting with adding glitter mica into resin and the answer to "how much glitter mica can you add to resin before your prints fail" is "not very much, turns out" but UV glowing mica? go fuckin ham you can add that poo poo for days
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Nov 9, 2021 03:35
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Deviant posted:Is there any sort of iridescent compound or dye I can add to a clear resin? It should look like synthwave and vaporwave threw up. If you want to get cool swirly effects, you’re out of luck. The build plate will just agitate whatever into a smooth brew However, basically any fluorescent mica powder you can find on Amazon can be mixed in to reasonable results E: or alcohol inks if you’re just looking for a specific color resin
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Nov 9, 2021 06:08
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Doctor Zero posted:You can turn on the heat while it's printing. Also don't use a lighter, us a heat gun for getting rid of stringing. I have blobbed up my hot end so many dang time And the first time I just called it a wash and tore the entire thing apart to get it out and clean it And then later I stumbled on this guide from prusa which has been invaluable https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-ptfe-tube-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_21664
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Nov 9, 2021 15:54
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Deviant posted:Friend, I live in Florida. The heat gets turned on one day a year to burn the dust off. So something that you could potentially do maybe hypothetically Is print a perfectly clear model, hollowed, clean and cure it, and then slowly fill it with different colored resins, curing them individually as you go This is a pretty neat idea and I may actually gently caress around with it Or you could add different colored resins to your vat as it prints to get a cool gradient as it prints, I’ve definitely seen some YouTubers do that (maybe Billie Rubens?) e: approximate timestamp here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNgtWLBs4tc&t=620s
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Nov 9, 2021 17:14
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Deviant posted:to each point: I've got a new resin printer with a clean vat showing up later today so we're gonna fuckin find out
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Nov 9, 2021 17:21
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Deviant posted:Could I just add fine iridescent glitter, or would that gently caress up the print (and potentially the vat)? The short answer is "no" the long answer is "well, kinda" I'm loving around with glitter right now, and there's a fine balance of getting it to glitter and having the prints succeed. All the mica glitter I'm using is, I guess? heavier than the resin, so it slowly sinks to the bottom of the vat, and once parts of the print get a bit too thick, they just pop off the supports, no matter how many I add (This is a working theory right now. I just did 6 identical prints with no issues, added more glitter, 3 failures deep) Fortunately this means that I can just kind of dredge the glitter from the bottom of the vat without having to completely toss the whole batch Or if I pout the vat out most of the glitter stays behind and I can just clean that out separately and put the glitter back in Billie Ruben and Zach Friedman seem to get really good results with glitter mica that I just can't quite replicate Other mica powder seems to work just fine though, I've been running off UV-glow prints with no issue
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Nov 9, 2021 18:05
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Just got a Mars 2 and I’m like 8 failed rook prints in The print is sticking to the bed just fine, but after the first 1/4” or so new layers don’t adhere to the rest of the print, so I’ve got a quarter inch of sort of a rook and a nice little impossible to scrape blob on the FEP I’ve rehomed it like five times, and I wouldn’t think that’s the issue given it’s sticking to the bed. Any suggestions?
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Nov 10, 2021 08:20
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Sockser posted:Just got a Mars 2 and I’m like 8 failed rook prints in Note that I did not mention: I was using transparent resin I put a bit of grey in it and ran off another rook before bed to complete success woo. Given that it works with an opaque resin but not transparent, what should I do? Turn up layer exposure time?
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Nov 10, 2021 16:05
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InternetJunky posted:Any time a print fails completely on an entire non-base layer (as in, the entire layer doesn't print) it is almost always a USB/file-related issue. Once you get the base layers sticking to the build plate, each successive layer is curing to the previous. This resin-on-resin bond is super strong and there's no way the current layer can stay stuck on the FEP when the top of it is welded to the previous layer. The USBs that come with the machines are super cheap and fail often. I have more than 10 of the elegoo USBs and just ended up buying new ones since those failed so often for me. 100% just added a bit of grey into the vat of clear and hit print. Still had a tiny bit of "delamination" (not the right word for resin printing, I suppose) on part of the rook, and my wash station covered them in glitter (I need to clean that alcohol out wow) but otherwise yeah, two successful rooks, with no change other than resin. e: actually maybe soaking a print in an alcohol/glitter slurry is the way to achieve the glitter print effect I've been looking for
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Nov 10, 2021 17:38
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Serenade posted:Also, I don't like posting only failures or troubleshooting. I did use the last scraps of the Elegoo resin on this gummi venus de milo I need to clean up. It's such an obvious thing to print as soon as you get translucent green now that I'm mixing my own colors I should really do one in a more show-accurate light green
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Nov 12, 2021 21:22
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Just spent several hours trying to clean out my wash alcohol before realizing I was stressing over like $4 of new alcohol Cool.
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Nov 13, 2021 04:41
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Doctor Zero posted:Just let it sit for 3 weeks. It should settle out. If that doesn’t work put it in a transparent container you don’t care about, leave it in the sun for a few hours, THEN let it sit three weeks. Crack open the hardened resin and it should be pretty clean inside (abut it will smell terrible). Put it in several mason jars and ran it through my cure station and filtered out all the goop But it was just a long and tedious and messy process and sucked and whatever just bought new alcohol and then I'll toss the old alcohol in the sun for a month
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Nov 13, 2021 18:01
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I cannot get this Elegoo transparent resin to work at all Or at least without mixing pigments in Do I need to up the cure time? Down it? I’m using a known good ctb file that I use regularly for testing new resins, and I get the pad and nothing else wants to adhere I’ve used Voxelab transparent in the past with success, so I guess I’m just going to order more of that and save the Elegoo for tinting??
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Nov 14, 2021 07:14
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Mars Pro, set for 60/8 My mars 2 also hates it, though l. Think I had that cranked up to 7 or 8 as well
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Nov 14, 2021 07:45
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PleasantDirge posted:Good times! I am a giant man baby and after going to sleep and waking up again I was again competent to follow your directions and I am running the test print rook as we speak. Thank you for spelling it out for me, I get anxious around poorly translated instructions and second guess myself. I am using the Elegoo black water washable resin instead of the grey they gave me because I don't have a gallon of IPA lying around and I wanted to use my wash and cure machine. I will see how bad the test print fucks up and probably move on to learning how to fiddle with the exposure settings next. I downloaded the spreadsheet from Elegoo so at least I have a base line for all that Jazz. Thank you again for the hand holding and spoon feeding, I am an unbelievable dummy but if you ever need any advice about fixing your car I'm your Huckleberry My understanding is that the wash and cure spinny boi is no good for water washable— gotta just hose those down and brush them? I guess?? (I have not used water washable resin)
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Nov 14, 2021 19:51
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I've been mixing a lot of colors and pigments of resin lately, and usually have a fair bit left after prints. What's the best way to store this? Like, what vessels can I get?
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Nov 15, 2021 19:22
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MMU took a poo poo today after a bunch of perfect prints this morning. Refused to so much as load a single filament on its own. I could of course disconnect the Bowden and feed in my own filament and get it to go, but the MMU was not having it, like the MMU and the printer weren’t talking to each other right. 50 reboots, adjusting every screw and tensioner, trying different filaments, forcing filament through the extruded manually, nothing Six cold pulls and now it’s working again mysteriously Sure wish it had some sort of status display other than a handful of blinking LEDs
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Nov 17, 2021 01:26
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Sagebrush posted:The MMU is a neat hack but it's clearly not the right way to do multi-material printing. A toolchanger like the E3D system is the only really good approach. I very much hope that the Prusa XL has that system or an equivalent built in. The biggest shame is that it doesn’t seem like it would take much software work to make it like 80% better Literally: Displaying errors on the LCD Better tip cutter (mine is disabled because it sucks) A better purge mechanism than the tower (I bought one of those blob dripper things but have not set up the custom Goode for it) A better way to pause prints and diagnose the MMU when it inevitably fucks up As it is, it’s kind of brilliant. It’s magic when it works. Hypnotizing, like my first day of 3d printing. And then it just goes to poo poo and ruins a 20 hour print and there’s nothing you can do to stop it.
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Nov 17, 2021 03:56
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Hey alright Finally got this model to successfully print in clear and then filled it with translucent red, and it’s been in my cure station for like an hour Will it explode? Who knows! 
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Nov 17, 2021 17:46
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Put a deposit down for a 5 tool. Seems like I can change my mind and downgrade it to a 1 or 2 tool later? And you can upgrade the number of ends you have, so that's neat. I'm just so tired of my MMU, and this is a chance to loving yeet it into the trash, for the low, low price of 2 MK3s! Oh gently caress this would make it super practical to turn into a plotter etc
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Nov 18, 2021 15:54
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Cory Parsnipson posted:
The only comparable I can really think of is the ultimaker s5, which has like half the features and only two tool heads and a smaller bed at $7000 And infinitely less modable and repairable The prusa XL is truly insane
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Nov 18, 2021 21:31
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For everyone itching for water soluble supports, I’ve heard good things (but not tested) using PETG for supports as it pops off super clean, is cheaper, not as hygroscopic, and you don’t need to go through all the mess of dissolving and brushing it I should probably try it at some point on the MMU E: to be clear, petg supports for such as PLA
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Nov 18, 2021 23:26
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Yknow obviously a prusa with tool changing opens up a lot of possibilities, and people will have plotter mods ready within the first month And it’d probably be easy to attach a small dremel to one of the tool carriages and have a sorta lovely desktop CNC (that flings dust all over your sensitive equipment this is a bad idea) But given that it enforces z leveling via … nozzle stress (I don’t really understand what’s going on there) I wonder how you’d manage that without a hot end installed
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Nov 19, 2021 18:45
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Vorenus posted:Hopefully this is the place for this, I PMed one of the printing goons on the spreadsheet and haven't heard back. You're not going to get any takers on this, tbh A rough calculation on just the demo files, which is only the upper turret assembly, I'd probably be charging at least $40, minimum. I'm looking at $7 just in raw materials to print this turret, plus nearly a day and a half at ugly settings for this full thing if I did it in one shot None of this is optimized for 3d printing and I imagine there'd definitely be a lot of lovely failures and manual work involved. For the whole thing, I'd probably be charging well over $200, and that's with waaaaaay undervaluing my labor cost And at that price point, You could just buy a printer and join the Hot Ends gang 
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Nov 21, 2021 18:27
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
ABS is grandpa material. PETG or ASA all the way
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Nov 22, 2021 05:11
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Anias posted:If you had a budget of usd 300 give or take, were comfortable with assembly shy of welding and wanted a fdm printer, what would you buy? Sockser posted:Can you afford a Prusa? Get a Prusa https://www.prusa3d.com/category/original-prusa-mini/ $350
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Nov 23, 2021 06:28
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Deviant posted:The gray filament is doing a lot of work, you can see them when you get closer. PrusaSlicer is pretty smart, and will attempt to put seams on hard angles where it can So your fish that's made up of nothing but curves? Can't hide 'em Seams on a cube? never know they're there E: actually, slice this up, show retractions, should pop the seams Sockser fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Nov 23, 2021 |
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Nov 23, 2021 08:00
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I upgraded my printers from 3B+s to 4s just because the Octoprint startup time is like 10% as long, it's great. Also consider Raspi Cameras instead of c270s my power supply does well with my town's lovely electric grid blips had tooooooo many prints die while running all 4 printers and it was worth it to shell out for an expensive UPS e: oh, cameras out of stock everywhere global supply chain issues, man
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Nov 24, 2021 20:13
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PleasantDirge posted:Side note: Do I really NEED an filament printer to print the non barrel/slide portion of my pistol(s?) or is my Mars 3 made of fairy dust and can do anything my black heart desires? Resin prints are very bad at dimensional accuracy if you have tight tolerances on things
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Nov 30, 2021 21:54
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90% of what I print are structural parts Why did I wait until now to pop a 0.8 nozzle in this bad boy This fuckin rules I’m doing a big series of prints that were 11 hours and now they’re 6 This is great
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Dec 4, 2021 01:01
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cephalopods posted:hell yeah! Prusa doesn't offffficially support 0.8mm nozzles for the MMU so after this project I'll probably back down to a 0.6 for normal printing
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Dec 4, 2021 07:00
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goddamnedtwisto posted:That might be a really interesting use for the tool-changing printers - swapping between nozzle sizes as you go from finely-detailed outer walls to structural inner walls and infill, although I guess the time spent changing ends and priming probably make it counterproductive on anything but the hugest prints. I wanna say Prusa brought this up in their announcement somewhere If it's a tool changer it wouldn't need to prime, that's the thing, and it looked like the tool changes were quick as gently caress, so this should actually be suuuuper viable, and I'm hype as hell
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Dec 4, 2021 19:37
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