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cruft
Oct 25, 2007

How do y'all get prints (PLA) off of glass beds? I've recently acquired an Ender 3 v2 and holy crap do they adhere.

Are the flexible steel plates really all that and a bag of chips? At this point I'd gladly part ways with $25 if it meant I wouldn't have to fight with emptying the kitchen freezer any longer. Would a flexible steel plate require I get one of those bed measuring doodads too, though?

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cruft
Oct 25, 2007

NewFatMike posted:

The Vector Finesse head(amame)kit kicks all kinds of rear end:



I got the 40mm drivers, and the instructions are bad and the files are kind of a pain to print, but the results are worth it.

You've got the left can on the right :ohdear:

This is intriguing. How does it sound?

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

w00tmonger posted:

Don't bother with the bed levelling sensor. Pei coated steel sheet for a bed and the upgraded yellow bed springs should be mandatory for the ender 3 though.

This was awesome advice, thank you so much. I am now a convert to the steel sheet, this is so much easier to work with. And the bed spring upgrade is a smart one to do at the same time. Don't know if that's going to make as much of a difference as not having to hack at the glass with the spatula.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Rhyno posted:

I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred?

I got pretty good at dealing with glass. You let it cool down to room temperature (or, better yet, basement temperature, which is 15C here), and then spray some rubbing alcohol at the base, and start trying to lift the part off on one side so the alcohol can creep in and break the bond underneath, and eventually the piece will snap off cleanly.

It's a pain in the rear end compared to the flexible steel PEI plate, though.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

I just want to tell someone who might understand that I think the 13th iteration of this part for my daughter's car headrest is going to finally be the one that fits properly.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Sagebrush posted:

not in the slightest. imagine how long it would have taken if he'd had to build 13 prototypes by hand

This thought has definitely occurred to me. If I were doing this by hand it would have taken weeks at best, and I'd have been hard pressed to do things like "what if I make this 0.5mm taller"

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

It worked, it worked, it finally worked!

The thing that made this a real PITA was that the entire part has to be inserted into a cavity in the headrest. After careful measurements, I couldn't think of a better way to fine-tune the fit than making guesses and trying them out, then drilling into the part to remove it and try the next one. I'm sure if I did this sort of thing for a living it wouldn't have taken me 15 attempts, but by gum, I got a working part!





The one in the photo was printed with an ugly 0.28mm layer height, but my subsequent attempt to print in better detail made spaghetti, and my kid said this one was good enough, so I just left it in. Probably not a lot of passengers are going to be examining the rear seat head rest button.

cruft fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 2, 2022

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

I like OpenSCAD, but then I also enjoy writing PostScript programs.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Ratmtattat posted:

Thanks so much everyone. You were right, definitely wasn't low enough. I'm at a -1.200 currently and I was just able to do this:




I know I have a long ways to go learning all of this, but just seeing something not gently caress up right away was pretty drat cool.

That is gorgeous.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Wondering if anyone with a Creality Ender 3 has moved the electronics to outside a tent. Mine gets to about 30° inside and I guess I'm in the market to move everything out, but it'd be nice to know what kinds of cabling I'm going to need.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Rexxed posted:

While it's true that you don't know how much the ambient temperature is affecting parts where you don't have temperature sensors, like inside the power supply, 30C is 86F which is just a warm room temperature.

Well, you know, that's just a darned good point. I suppose running things to failure and then replacing them with longer cables and external housing isn't a terrible move.

Thanks!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

The Demilich posted:

I just got a $250 refund from ticketmaster, any good printers recommended at that price point right now?

The Ender 3 has been pretty solid. I got the v2 but the base one isn't that much different (and I replaced the glass bed anyway).

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

I have an Ender 3 v2 and I like Prusa. But I didn't have that kind of money. Pretty happy with my purchase.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

I made a model of a Uilleann pipe chanter based on historical documents and now I don't know how I am going to print it without cutting it into quarters. It's 350+mm tall and has overhangs all over the place.

Any ideas?

https://www.printables.com/model/167672-uilleann-pipe-chanter

e: I have an Ender 3 v2, 230x230x250mm

cruft fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Apr 11, 2022

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Unkempt posted:

The town where I live:



Also the town where I live:



I need to up my building painting game somewhat.

What are you, an ant?!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

I am really tired of compiling Marlin.

I should have just left the runout sensor to fail as "filament present". The number of times the janky printed JST-XH connector has come disconnected is far, far lower than the number of times I have recompiled the frickin' firmware to fix this one drat thing.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Pham Nuwen posted:

Anybody ever see this before?



It's still printing, and in fact I can still access the "tune" menu if I spend the mental effort to parse the rotated & mirrored text, but goddamn.

Believe it or not I'm actually hacking display code now. Is that a DWIN touchscreen? There's a single command to do this sort of thing, my guess is you got some line noise and something got misinterpreted.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Is there an HCH thread where I can ask for advice designing a physical part? Maybe woodworking?

I need to design a button for the bagpipe that triggers a proximity sensor, but I am absolute poo poo when it comes to physical design.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007


In hindsight, the CAD thread seems obvious. But in my defense, I'm brand new to all of this and it didn't occur to me.

Thanks!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

inkmoth posted:

So, I think I did a dumb thing. I decided to get an ender s1 pro, and tried to find a legit seller. Despite looking kinda shady, I ended up placing an order late last week from "creality3dofficial.com" as I found some (apparently outdated) posts elsewhere implying that it really was the real OEM seller. Turns out I totally missed "store.creality.com"...


Do any goons know if I ordered from some kind of scam site? I did pay via PayPal, so I may be able to dispute it if so.

This is the outfit I got my Ender 3 v2 from. Also got 2kg of filament in a bundle deal. No problem.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Toebone posted:

I’ve got an Ender 3 Pro I got from the microcenter deal last summer. I’d like to add a CR-Touch to it; can I install it as-is or do I need to upgrade the mainboard as well?

Creality's touch screens are sort of a mystery to me, but everything else, you just need a new main board firmware to drive it. You should probably check to see if Creality provides a precompiled firmware for the E3 and touch screen.

If they don't, let us know, and I can walk you through that's entailed with compiling a new Marlin. (Spoiler alert: it's a pain in the rear end.)

Unfortunately I now know way more than I ever wanted to about RepRap displays. And what I can tell you is that for the time being, if you are after functionality, the old school mono screens with the Hitachi display are the clear winner.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Acid Reflux posted:

A CR-Touch is Creality's bed probe.

I knew that.

Okay, so to answer the *actual question that was asked*, no, you don't need to do anything special to put a CR Touch on an Ender 3. I think you just go into a menu and check a box.

I should throw in, however, that another goon suggested to me that I just upgrade the bed springs rather than get the CR Touch, and that goon was 100% correct. I haven't had to level the bed at all since I did that.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Toebone posted:

I've got the yellow bed springs and they help a ton, but my bed is a bit bowl-shaped and it can be tricky to get it leveled just right. For now I've got my PEI steel sheet on top of a glass bed on top of the aluminum, all held together with binder clips, and that seems to be working pretty well.

Aw, that stinks.

Marlin has a mesh bed leveling feature that will let you set offsets, in software, for various points on your bed. It's tedious, but you typically only have to do it once. If you think the bed is pretty stable and just needs a single adjustment to this sort of warping, it's an option worth considering.

Although, again, compiling Marlin is a complete pain in the rear.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

biracial bear for uncut posted:

In the related things:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3729357

I sent her that link asking if it was a good enough model and she said "the one with veins is perfect!"

So now I need to check what colors I have in my shop and decide what to print some dicks in.

Kinda wish I still had a spool of that creepy pink flesh color filament...

I would be sure to mention that if these are going to get wet for any reason, she needs to put a condom on them first. Not only because that makes it funnier, but also because it will help prevent nasty stuff establishing a home in the tiny pores that you tend to get with 3d printed objects.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

CH Science posted:

Found this place like 10 minutes from my house that produces recycled filament out of waste from I guess their large scale commercial prints and donations? Seems cool and I like both recycling and supporting local biz so I picked up a few different colors.

https://printeriordesigns.com/

Test benchy printing now and looking quite nice.

I've been looking for a local recycled filament source. Please post a photo of your new tiny boat!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

CH Science posted:

First tiny boat with the recycled stuff looks like this:







I feel extremely :discourse: about it.

rPETG printed at 240/70c, 0.2mm (draft setting in sovol-forked-cura) layer height, 20% infil

Dang, that came out great. I'm sure you have a better printer than my Ender 3 but even so, that looks like consistent filament with few to no contaminants. Thanks for mentioning these folks!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

biracial bear for uncut posted:

They're going to be in some goofy display of alternating dicks that she's putting together. Hopefully she'll send me a pic of the finished display. :lol:

The thread is going to need a copy of this photo too. Thanks in advance.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007


This thread just keeps giving.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007


This is awesome. You are awesome.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

RabbitWizard posted:

In other news, I think I have too much time on my hands.


:lol:

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Drowning Rabbit posted:

I know that since I had left this printer sitting for several months doing nothing, I started a print and it quickly was printing nothing, as it seems the PLA had snapped at some point in the bowden tube.

Thanks for reminding me to go downstairs and put that spool into a baggie!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Free stuff: runout sensor microswitches and 12V LED strip.

I ordered a bunch of microswitches to make a runout sensor. If anybody would like one mailed to them, drop me a PM and I'll put one in the mail.

There are a few printable designs for runout sensor attachments on an Ender 3. I used one with a bearing, and then also printed a JST-PH connector that I crammed wires into in order to attach it to the motherboard.

I didn't like that the switch was normally open, given my janky connector, so I recompiled a Marlin firmware too, which I'd be happy to send to any goons who want a normally closed runout sensor.

Another upgrade I found useful was to print some mounts for 12V LED strip, so I can watch progress on the $5 webcam my dad gave me. Wired in series, that works out to 24V and can go onto the power supply. I'm happy to mail little lengths of this stuff too, just tell me how much you'd like. You'll need to glue it in since it's reclaimed from being under cabinet lighting and the adhesive is worn out.

This in what the lights do to the area:

cruft fucked around with this message at 14:30 on May 10, 2022

cruft
Oct 25, 2007


Everything Aurium wrote is spot on and awesome advice. :hmmyes:

What cracks on the extruder, the arm? Mine's still okay, I guess.

I'll second getting a spray bottle of isopropyl alchohol for the glass bed. It helps a whole lot. And be patient.

I got the PEI coated steel spring bed by Comgrow and it's fabulous.

In closing, Aurium is a top-tier poster about Ender 3 upgrades.

E: In the interest of fairness, a post by w00tmonger gave me essentially the same advice and I ought to thank them again for that.

EE: I've been printing with the Creality PLA and it's been trouble-free, so I ordered a second spool of it.

cruft fucked around with this message at 23:39 on May 10, 2022

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

LochNessMonster posted:

I can get a pretty nice deal on a new ender 3 v2, is this still the goon recommended entry level but you'll need to do some tinkering and get some upgrades model?

I think the general consensus is that while you can get a better printer than the Ender 3 v2, it's a whole lot easier to get a worse one. I don't think there are any E3v2 owners in this thread who regret their purchase. Including me!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Marshal Prolapse posted:

I am so happy ...



Ooh, it's black and red like KITT!

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Ethics_Gradient posted:

What should I be looking at if my Ender 3 just... doesn't start printing?

It's been pretty tempremental of late - I replaced the thermistor and the thermal runaway errors on ABS seem to have stopped, but now I think my z-offset needs resetting as the brims I get are basically outlines (which do not want to scrub off with isopropyl + paper towel) on the glass bed. I'll get to that eventually, but seem to be having other issues I think I ought to address first.

I switched back to PLA after having an ABS print just seemingly lock the nozzle in place a few mm's above the bed and fart out filament. I got one small PLA print issue-free (aside from another ghost brim), then when I went to print another copy of the same thing, the printer just... sits there, and doesn't warm either the bed or nozzle.

Sounds like it's multimeter time.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

I own an Ender 3 v2 and will confirm that Prusa printers look dreamy.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Sockser posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_QLxTVtyng

What the gently caress

This is a recent change--
prusaprinters was serving as a model repository, but a lot of people thought it was just for Prusa printers
So now it's printables!

I tried to upload some models to thingiverse but it was so badly broken I couldn't finish creating an account, so I put them on printables instead. I thought it was the de facto replacement.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Marshal Prolapse posted:

Well that’s why I’m gonna inspect it and if it sucks I’ll just get a different ender two to replace the SD card issue, Which is legit not working anyway so it was coming back anyhow.

Let us know how it goes, OP.

FWIW I like my E3v2 a whole lot.

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cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Deviant posted:

remember:

they'll sell a 3d printer to the average person.

now imagine the average person.

now remember that half the planet is dumber than that.

:actually: that's the median person.



I'll see myself out.

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