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I wasn't part of the 3d printing community during its infancy, but does anyone know why 0.4mm became the "default" nozzle size?
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Jul 21, 2021 00:47
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Are they touting better print quality as a selling point or something? How's the flexibility? Does the mini survive a fall from table height?
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Aug 3, 2021 00:45
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I seem to recall the magic ingredients in hairspray that you want is Acrylates Copolymer. If it has that and it's unscented, it'll probably work. Aquanet was the brand I always used.
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Aug 16, 2021 15:42
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E3D must be trying to clear out their backstock, so they recently did a promotion for $30 you'd get a mystery box. Well I'm a sucker for a mystery box so I have now ended up with a brand new v6, an assortment of v6 nozzles, a volcano heater block, and a few volcano nozzles. Anyone with a MK3S done a volcano conversion? Ever since I got my resin printer I have been exclusively printing larger parts on my filament printer, so a volcano with a 1mm nozzle will be a huge speed gain for me.
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Aug 23, 2021 19:57
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insta posted:All printers across the board are equally poo poo. All printers are poo poo, some printers are shittier than others. Some are pieces of poo poo that might burn your house down.
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Sep 9, 2021 00:02
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I've never printed ABS, just used PETG in any application that needed slightly higher heat tolerance than PLA. That being said, I'm pretty sure a lot of PLA+ spools are a blend of ABS and PLA (obviously this varies a lot from manufacturer to manufacturer). Maybe look there? EDIT: also for what it's worth, all my PETG car stuff has survived the Texas summer sun in my car just fine, which has gotta be hotter than a heated chamber. Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 21:06
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Prusament resin is now available for $69 per kilogram plus shipping. I don't mind paying more for quality materials, but I'm skeptical if it's worth the price point (similar to their sla printer, really). Sirayatech for me, thanks.
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Sep 15, 2021 03:53
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NofrikinfuN posted:I was planning to save a bunch of the support platforms in case I needed stock to fix some antennae snapping off my admech or in case I wanted to build some ruined terrain. they look like they would make good building debris potentially. Soldier 6 can rest among them, I suppose. Support material can also be very helpful to clean off the FEP sheet without emptying your resin tray (only do this if you know you don't have cured resin floating around in your vat). Put some support material in a corner of the vat, then manually expose for 20-30 seconds. Pull up on the support material, and you'll peel away a nice cured layer of resin which usually pulls up any stray cured resin stuck to the FEP.
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Sep 22, 2021 15:18
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Comfy Fleece Sweater posted:Hi sorry for the noob question but this is for a friend who just got a 3d printer Slicers do a pretty good job of figuring out how to interpret the model as manifold, even if the model itself is not. If the slicer can't figure it out, most of them will let you run it through netfabb which is black magic as far as I know. So, it will probably just work.
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Sep 22, 2021 22:29
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w00tmonger posted:Calibrating my prusa mk3s for the first time after building it and it's bumping around calibrating on the front left corner for ages. Is this expected or did I gently caress something up? it's doing some prusa magic. It will do that for a while, then move to the other four corners eventually and tell you how well you squared the frame to the bed. Just make sure the nozzle isn't touching the heated (they tell you to put paper underneath and turn the power off if it catches).
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Sep 30, 2021 23:43
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w00tmonger posted:Calibrated and running great but a little bit loud. Did I goof something? Or are my expectations off vs my silent driver ender 3? Did you turn on Stealth mode in the menu? The steppers are in normal mode by default. There might also be a gcode you can use to enable it, I'm not sure.
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Oct 1, 2021 02:24
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I basically never use stealth mode because it's not that loud in normal mode and the steppers lose some features like crash detection in stealth mode.
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Oct 1, 2021 02:42
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E3D announced a new hotend, and I gotta say I'm very excited to get my hands on one. Toolless, cold nozzle changes is extremely cool. And for half the price of a mosquito. Only brass nozzles to start, which is a bit of a bummer. EDIT: also it looks like Prusa is teasing a CoreXY printer that is not the XL in their Dubai expo blog post. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/the-future-of-manufacturing-by-prusa-research_55993/ Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 00:06
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Some day I might need to buy a replacement Nozzle X. Some day...
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Oct 3, 2021 21:21
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GotDonuts posted:Quick question, I am planning on doing some prints with my ender 3v2 with some glow in the dark rainbow filament. Should I invest in more brass nozzles or upgrade my nozzle in advance for the abrasive nature of the filament? Any suggestions on what type to use? If you're printing abrasive filament, you should not be using brass. The nozzle diameter will not be 0.4mm by the time you're done with a reasonably sized print (ie, the size you'd need in order to show off that fancy rainbow). This will make your print fail if it's severe enough, taking your expensive rainbow glow in the dark filament with it. Hardened steel like the ones you linked is what I'd use for that type of filament. I can't speak for quality of those specific ones however.
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Oct 4, 2021 01:24
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Ghostnuke posted:does the prusa need engineering precision to assemble like the ender? or should I spring for the assembled one? One of the best features of the mk3s (and I assume the mini) that never really gets talked about is that it will use math and the pinda probe to tell you if/how badly you hosed up squaring the machine to itself. It will then compensate for it behind the scenes (assuming it's not egregiously out of square). In the assembly manual they will specifically call out if the step requires precision (for example, aligning the bearings correctly on the X axis rods)
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Oct 8, 2021 00:38
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I just never change nozzles ever! That way I don't have to worry about it.
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Nov 6, 2021 13:27
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InternetJunky posted:I've been running into this particular issue a few times recently -- when I print super thin parts (ie. bowstrings or arrows) in resin the thin part warps very badly after it's all processed. Sometimes it straightens back again after drying, but other times it never does. Any advice/tips on what to do in these cases? I have had something like this happen when I was removing supports prior to completely post-curing. The way I've had it described to me is that the supports help keep the shape of the model as it's post-curing, and by removing them early you're allowing the material to cure in weird ways like that. If you're removing supports prior to post-curing, try leaving them on while curing and see if it helps. Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 04:47
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Prusa XL preorders are up https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-xl-2/ I'm in for a two-toolhead kit. I'm ready to be hurt again, Prusa.
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Nov 18, 2021 13:49
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With prusa's shipping track record I expect to have this thing in my hands by Q1 23.
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Nov 18, 2021 14:22
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in one of the interviews, prusa talked about one of the advantages of the bed being designed that way is that there are also 16 thermistors (one for each zone). Because they are measuring temp in each zone, they can actively heat parts of the bed which cool faster, such as the corners. Which is such a mind blowingly simple and elegant solution to that problem.
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Nov 20, 2021 02:41
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What generation of pi
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Nov 28, 2021 05:30
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E3D Revo preorders are up. https://e3d-online.com/collections/revo A bit pricy. Expected to ship Q1 22. I am really eager to try out the quick changing nozzles. I basically never change nozzles on my v6 right now because I hate dealing with it.
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Dec 23, 2021 12:06
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I haven't tried lego, but duplo are absolutely doable. I've saved a bundle printing them for my kids.
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Jan 5, 2022 19:06
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InternetJunky posted:I now have 6 flex plates sitting useless because the magnet had started to peel off the build plate. Is there a crazy strong glue I can use on the magnet to adhere it back to the build plate? What manufacturer? I live in fear of this happening to my wham bams...
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Jan 6, 2022 14:20
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Rexxed posted:Some newbie questions get overlooked on occasion but most of the hot steamy posting here just involves people defending their purchase. I WILL DEFEND JOSEF PRUSA'S HONOR TO THE DEATH!!!!! I haven't finished the podcast yet, but that's really sad. Maker's Muse videos were some of the first ones that got me into the field. And I'm pretty sure this thread has a wider breadth of experience, and in generally it's much easier to discuss things here than across 10 different warring Facebook groups. Facebook might be the worst possible platform for a technical topic like 3d printing.
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Jan 14, 2022 16:08
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Does FEP degrade when printed through? In other words, should I be moving around where I'm printing models on the build plate in order to wear the FEP more evenly?
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Jan 15, 2022 22:10
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Doctor Zero posted:Yes, and no. Thanks, I had been doing it out of habit from my form2. Formlabs is very specific that their vats (whatever their equivalent of FEP is) degrade from the laser being shot through it, so they strongly recommend moving builds around the plate (they even provide a cool visualization/heatmap of your vat's historical use so you know which parts of the vat are used more often).
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Jan 16, 2022 01:47
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Does Chitubox or Lychee support the concept of pre-print "gcode"? I want my build platform to oscillate between Z1 and Z~20 a few dozen times before printing (no exposures at all, just platform movement). In my mind this would stir the resin a bit, which I've always found to help success rates. Is this possible/worth doing?
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Jan 17, 2022 02:21
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canyoneer posted:Just put some TPU through the paces doing some vacuum attachment nozzles and my kids are clamoring for me to print a squishy doodad. Anyone have any fun suggestions of something to print in TPU? If you find something, let me know. I've got two rolls just gathering dust because I couldn't think of an application for them.
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Jan 22, 2022 18:50
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Is Fusion 360 the recommended go to for a free CAD program? I have some experience with 3D Studio Max when I had access to it in an educational setting but lmao at that AU$300/month pricetag. Looking for something with a good support base/available YouTube tutorials, ideally a series. As someone with no CAD or 3d modeling experience, I have become fairly dangerous at Fusion 360 (I won't say good, but I can definitely get my idea out of my head into a 3d model). I haven't found anything else that's quite as useful.
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Jan 28, 2022 18:47
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Javid posted:Must be this, which caused me to immediately delete this crap and resume using onshape: If you're a hobbyist working on 10 projects that need to be editable at the same time, I don't think you're a hobbyist. You can swap between editable and read only in about 5 seconds. I'm not an expert in f360 so there could be a use case I'm unaware of, but it seems pretty reasonable to me
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Jan 29, 2022 02:46
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I'm pretty sure fully assembled Prusa's ship with the x-gantry zip-tied from both sides so it stays in the middle of the bed (and also immobilizes the steppers, which would become tiny generators if they could move). There's also a layer of medium density foam between the nozzle and the bed (the nozzle is a few mm above the bed). I don't know what the y-axis looks like, but I'd guess it's also probably zip-tied in place. Then the whole thing is encased in foam. On a CR-6 you could probably unbolt the z-axis to make it smaller for shipping, but I'd definitely still do the zip-tying on X and Y. You don't want the steppers putting current into the mainboard or screen. Full disclosure, I've only ever shipped an SLA printer, and even then it was in its original packaging so someone else probably has more to add here.
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Feb 2, 2022 16:50
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TPU is much, much harder to print reliably and cleanly than PETG. If you're comfortable printing TPU, you should prepare the bed roughly the same way to print PETG (I used Windex on smooth PEI before I got my textured sheet). Also I seem to recall one of Maker's Muse, Tom Sanlanderer, or CNC kitchen have a video about dialing in PETG to get the clearest possible result. That might be a good place to start if that's what you're going for.
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Feb 5, 2022 17:41
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Trip report with the Revo 6: Holy mother of god this thing smells like poo poo when it heats up the first time. Calibrating and doing a first print right now, so far so good. Just using the 0.4mm nozzle it came with for the first print, but I'm so pumped to try 0.25 and 0.8mm printing. The hardest part of installation on my mk3s was the wiring. Hopefully with the quick-disconnect wires they provide I won't have to do that again.
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Feb 21, 2022 23:17
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That's a safety feature. The printer doesn't know if you did anything while it was off, so it assumes wherever it is when it turns on is a safe place to stop at. A normal homing will remove the question mark and also "fix" the problem. You should be doing a full home and probe before every print, did you remove that from the start gcode?
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Feb 7, 2023 16:19
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If your z-axis is binding enough for the stepper drivers to think the carriage has hit z=0, you really need to figure that out before using the printer any more. You could be destroying one of your z-axis motors.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:28
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Admittedly I haven't calibrated my printer in a while, but I'm fairly certain the step immediately before the initial search pattern is that it raises the z-axis until the motors start skipping, which has the effect of finding z-max. It then lowers by the expected z-axis height and complains if it encounters a bed too early (ie, z-max wasn't as high as it should have been) or not at all (ie, z-max was higher than expected as can occur with different hotends or X-carriages). This is the exact opposite of what that person said. I've had my MK3 since it was released and I've never seen the behavior you're describing except when I had a bad trapezoidal nut on the z axis (which caused binding).
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Feb 7, 2023 16:55
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Is there a laser cutter thread? For lack of a better term, is there a Prusa of laser cutters? I can't seem to find much between a $400 K40 and a $4000 Glowforge. Open-frame laser cutters scare me and I'd prefer to pay a bit more so I don't have to worry about my house burning down or my eyeballs falling out.
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Mar 14, 2023 15:11
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PLA takes a long time to get waterlogged, and every roll I've had that happen to can be restored by dehydrating it. I use a food dehydrator, but a drybox is also an option. If you don't have either of those it's probably more cost effective to just buy new filament. The telltale symptom of waterlogged PLA is that it gets very brittle. If you can snap it with two fingers you've got some waterlogged PLA. It's USUALLY OK to print in this state (sometimes you'll notice more stringing than usual), but I've had a lot of cases where it snaps coming off spool and you end up with effectively a filament runout.
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Apr 3, 2023 17:13
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