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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Talorat posted:

I really wish there was somewhere local I could buy 3D printer filament from in Seattle, kinda boggles the mind that no hobby shops seem to stock it. I’d like to support a local shop or maker space but it seems like it’s basically Amazon, direct from the manufacturer, or nothing.

I would absolutely not be shocked if it turned out that hobby shops were being pressured by their suppliers not to stock 3D printing supplies.

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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Can anyone tell me why my first few layers with Inland PETG+ are such crap? I've tried calibrating the extruder, lowering the bed temp to 70C, lowering the nozzle temp to 240C, and turning the part cooling fan off. I don't have any issues elsewhere in the print. There's no indication of any problems with the z-offset (I think) and I'm leveling with a BLTouch.

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Feb 19, 2022

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Nerobro posted:

You're to close to the bed, or overextruding. What you're seeing there is excess plastic "getting out" from the first few layers before the excess plastic can end up in the infill.

"lowered the bed to 70" is mildly concerning, but unrelated to what is happening.

Superslicer has an extrusion test that is really very good. You should run that.

Alternatively post some photos of the bottom, and top layers of a completed print. We can tell from there, with some confidence.

Thanks...that failure mode is a new one to me but it explains why the upper layers would look better. I was thinking that maybe the heat from the bed was affecting things lower in the model.

I re-calibrated the extruder and took it down from 109 to 105.6, re-leveled the bed, raised the z-offset, and re-ran the print. It looks a lot better this time though not perfect. I'll take the z-offset up another couple notches to see if that helps on the next one.



(the missing chunk is from a bad finish job)



Hypnolobster posted:

If you're printing on textured PEI, PETG needs an ultra clean plate and to be just baaarely too far from the bed (compared with what you might do on a smooth plate with PLA, for example). You want great adhesion, but also enough room that the second layer isn't messy at all. It's sort of a weird balance.

I just got the PEI plate in yesterday. So far I'm loving it; it beats the poo poo out of glass and glue.

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Feb 20, 2022

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

bird food bathtub posted:

Ender 3 and starter supplies just arrived. Got my weekend accounted for I guess.

Edit: Assembled and I only stabbed myself with a sharp object once. Success! Just turned it on for the first time. How important is it to deal with the firmware on these when getting started? Significant menu differences from what the YouTube guide I was following said. Don't see any way to get it to auto-home itself.

Also is there any kind of goon discord for 3d printing? I trust people behind the :tenbux: firewall for quality more than I will any random collection of people on the internet.

The stock firmware for the Ender 3 v2 is pretty lacking. I kicked myself for not installing Marlin earlier, because it adds stuff like auto-homing, auto-leveling mesh viewing/tweaking, z-offset tweaking, manual leveling guides, better statusing, etc. Here's the popular version that I'm using: https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases/tag/v2.0.1

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

gbut posted:

Just got my ender 3 V2 and initial benchy came out great. I was expecting more fiddling involved tbh.

This is the first time I've done a 3d print since working with some stratasys powder devices more than a decade ago. And I'm excited to print some tool organizers myself.

The first print is the best one you’ll ever get

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

gbut posted:

Any recommendations for a food-grade filament (for toddler toys), preferably no sheen?

The issue is the FDM, not the filament. The printing process does not create easily-cleanable surfaces. If you coat it with resin you’ll still wind up with little pockets and valleys for stuff to grow in.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I put a second z screw on my Ender and holy crap it’s like a whole new machine

No more weird layers and z offset changing between and mid prints

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I used the Hictop kit for $40 on Amazon. It has a y cable to split the power to both motors which theoretically can cause an issue in some applications but I couldn’t find anyone describing a specific problem.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

What are the benefits from converting something like an Ender 3 v2 to direct drive? I see on reddit that people have done it but I haven't seen anyone describe what they gain out of it, and I've even seen people say it causes some new issues.

I would love to be able to push this thing past 50mm/s for PLA but I'm not sure converting to direct drive would let me do it.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

The 2nd z screw I added should address the weight/gantry sag issue, at least.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I set up Octoprint with a spare Android phone on my Ender 3 v2 and it was 120% worth the effort

Gonna huck this Creality wi-fi box into the bin

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Rhyno posted:

I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred?

No they’re a real pain in the rear end. Switching to PEI was a huge improvement

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

gbut posted:

Switched to PEI the other day and was severely disappointed. It just would not stick, no matter what I do. Then I realized I had it upside down on the plate, yellow side down.

:doh:

I upgraded that, yellow springs, and the double Z axis, and the touch sensor, and I keep wondering if I should have just bought an nicer printer from the start.

The Ender 3 S-1 comes with all the stuff I upgraded my v2 with for around the same total cost and looks nicer. I just tell myself it was a learning experience.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

What's up with printables.com? It won't let me post a model without a photo, but whenever I try to upload a photo (jpeg, jpg, png, whatever) it tells me to regenerate the gcode.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008


It does, but I have some concerns about maintainability with all that fancy trim. I'm also not a huge fan of putting the control panel on a moving part of the gantry.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Going to experiment with running my Ender 3 v2 at 45mm/s wall and 75mm/s infill. God help me

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Any good printable duct upgrades for the Ender 3 v2 that use the stock parts? I’m having a hard time picking through all the variations on the model sites.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008


Excellent, that looks good. Thanks!

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

idgi. What issues are you going to run into with an all metal hot end? Doesn’t it mainly just ditch a plastic sleeve on the inside?

I put the Microswiss all metal hot end on my E3v2 and all I had to do was boost material temps by 5C. I didn’t even have to recalibrate the esteps.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

RabbitWizard posted:

When I started printing I constantly had to re-level because gravitational waves were enough to turn the knobs. I re-installed my bed springs 2 times and I don't need to level any more, except for different nozzles. What I did was just to compress the springs as much as possible. Just turn all the knobs until they don't move any more. Move the z-stop (yes, the whole thing) until the nozzle is barely above the bed after homing. Within 1-2 turns the bed should be high enough to print.

Sure, silicone will probably give the same effect of un-moving knobs and they are cheap, I just don't consider them a must have.

The silicone spacers are still springs and act the same way. If the knobs are barely turned the bed will still shift as vibrations and such work them loose and the silicone goes back to its original shape.

I’m a bit annoyed they haven’t been a magical bullet but oh well.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

There's like a 99% chance an open box Ender has been harved for parts

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Buddy I’ve been ignoring OSHA ever since I bought a home

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

It’s great. Consider using an Android phone if you have a spare one.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

RabbitWizard posted:

Found an article about strange layer lines and I thought it would be interesting to some of you too. The thing I printed was a puzzlebox with a labyrinth on the inside which fits the requirements for this kind of "error", I wish I had known about it sooner because I wasted so much time on it.
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745

God bless you now I can stop caring about it instead of constantly thinking I messed up tightening something

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Len posted:

I just don't understand how I went from this



To not even being able to get a bottom layer when nothing changed.

But I moved the z offset up and will see what happens

That’s Z offsets for you

0.2mm makes the difference between a good print and a bad print

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Does anyone happen to know what probe offset I should use for a BLTouch + Sprite Pro upgrade kit on an Ender 3 v2?

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 29, 2022

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Guess who just ruined their brand new PEI bed by installing a different bed sensor and neglecting to update the z-offset before starting a print and heading to the bathroom :negative:

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Nobody says that lol

Auto supports + tweaking is the way

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Bobulus posted:

- UI Customizer lets you move parts of the UI around however you want, turn on a dark theme, and have different layouts for a horizontal computer monitor and a vertical phone interface.
- Slicer Thumbnails will show thumbnails generated by your slicer.
- Bed Visualizer will take the bed leveling data from a printer (that has such a sensor) and convert it to a visual format.
- Cancel Objects lets you drop a single model from a multi-model print. Haven't tested it yet, but seems handy if you're printing a dozen things and one of them comes off the buildplate.

I haven't tested OctoApp or Print Time Genius yet.

I also saw mentioned on the Prusa reddit boards a plugin called OctoLapse that moves the bed to a known position before taking time-lapse cam snapshots so that they're 'stabilized', but I haven't tested that, either.

These look really interesting, thanks. I ran Print Time Genius against a 5+-hour print I did yesterday and it undershot by 45 minutes. I think that's a worse estimate than whatever OctoPrint uses by default so I'm not that impressed with it.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Sagebrush posted:

Print Time Genius builds its estimate by comparing your actual print time against your slicer's estimate, among other strategies, so it needs a few runs to calibrate itself and dial in. I've found that after using it for a while, it is consistently within a couple of minutes of the correct time.

Ah I didn't realize there was a learning element to it. I'll give it some time.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I got that pretty often with my uploads to their site. Never tried to ask support, though. It usually cleared up the next day.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Can I get some help sorting out my filament path? I'm struggling to figure out how to integrate a runout sensor and dryer box with this setup. As it is now the angles into and out of the runout sensor seem too extreme and while I don't see any issues in the print the components make a lot of twangy noises from the strain.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I did consider printing a mount that puts the runout sensor directly over the entry to the extruder but I figured that'd make the filament route to the runout even weirder. I didn't even think about rotating the printer!

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

The Chairman posted:

I accidentally nuked my Klipper setup and don't have any recent backups of my printer.cfg, life is suffering

Installing Marlin forks is about my limit for printer janitoring at the moment because of stuff like this lol

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Bobulus posted:

If every layer except the first is fine, it probably means your first layer is the wrong height off the plate. Try tweaking it by, like, a tenth of a millimeter or something, and seeing if it helps.

I also found that, at least for my printer, it seemed like I needed a slightly different height for PLA and PETG. But maybe that was just my imagination?

PETG needs a slightly bigger gap or it'll blob up and jam the extruder

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Bodanarko posted:

Can’t link now but I got the double sided PEI Comgrow one for under $20 on Amazon and have had no issues.

That sounds fairly normal, I’ve had PLA leave residue on prusa PEI sheets and the ender magnetic beds previously, never printed on glass. Shouldn’t affect adhesion but can affect the underside of your print’s finish if that concerned you.

Just got this one too and it's good. Doesn't seem any worse than the Creality one I messed up that cost $40.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Does taking the plate off and flexing it not work with these printers? I haven't used a glue stick since I got rid of my stupid glass plate.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

FilthyImp posted:

Contemplated throwing Marlin on my Neptune 2S but then saw that you have to compile it yourself and add the configs oh and also recompile and reflash if you add a BL Touch so I'm on stock until I crawl out from my closet.

Somebody hasn’t already done that for you? I always just use somebody else’s build

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I use OctoAnywhere on my phone and it’s great.

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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

What would make a leveling mesh look like this on an Ender 3 V2 with a PEI bed? Could it be the adhesive starting to degrade in the middle of the magnetic sticker?

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