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ImplicitAssembler posted:It's also not the small prints you really want the extra speed on. It's on the big prints. I dunno. My CR-30 with the 0.8mm nozzle and linear rails has become my goto. It's that much faster, and I don't even need to remove the part. Small parts in as much half the time with the same nozzle on another printer. Edit: half the time, even factoring in the nozzle size. snail fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 24, 2021 23:56
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Hadlock posted:How fast can you go with a 1.0mm? I sort of assumed that the speed of the nozzle couldn't go any faster, but I guess I'm wrong? It's about volumetric capability of your hot end. Flow more plastic, you need more power and heat transfer, to heat the filament in the same distance within the hotend. This is why the Mosquito, Nova, Dragon and other things are a thing. They're capable of 4 to 6 times more plastic flow than a stock hotend. I commented earlier that my CR-30 with a 0.8mm nozzle has become my goto for general use parts, at 40mm/s with a 0.8mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height, I'm at nearly the maximum flow of the stock hotend. Easy enough to place it all in a calculator and work out if layer height x nozzle width x speed is below the volumetric capability of your hot end.
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Jul 26, 2021 04:48
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wnYcYb1YRw TL;DW, the PET side of a laminating pocket can be used in place of the FEP in an ultra-violet resin printer apparently. Has anyone tried this themselves? Edit: UV is ultra-violet, not ultra-violent.
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Aug 15, 2021 04:35
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becoming posted:I feel like there's still a decent amount of debate as to whether or not BLTouch is worth it on these machines. Anyone here in the E3 crew running BLTouch and have an opinion?. My experience with Marlin and the probe on an Ender3 v2 I was given was very sub-par. Put Klipper on there, and you'll wonder why people live without a bed probe. If you do go that path, make sure you look into the bed screw leveling and the nozzle calibration. ABL/UBL and z stepping are not the same thing at all.
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Aug 16, 2021 08:42
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Hadlock posted:Can you link to where you found the klipper stuff for E3 V2? Printer firmware is very fragmented and most of the links are grossly out of date, thanks https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-creality-ender3-v2-2020.cfg is the config that'll work with a v2 out of the box. I also add the following for a BLTouch as a virtual endstop, and the bed leveling aid. You can setup a mesh yourself, there's plenty of instructions in the github config repo. I have an adjusted X and Y endstop, so my screws tilt adjust settings are a little different from stock, but it's easy enough to jog the printer and find exactly where you want to be touching that probe. This config below will fail because of X limits, but you should be able to change the X limit to ~ 246 or so anyway, the nozzle can be reliably moved off the right side of the bed without hitting anything. [stepper_z] ... endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop [bltouch] sensor_pin: ^PB1 control_pin: PB0 x_offset: -42 y_offset: 10 [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 70.5,37.5 screw1_name: front left screw screw2: 240,37.5 screw2_name: front right screw screw3: 240,207.5 screw3_name: rear right screw screw4: 70.5,207.5 screw4_name: rear left screw horizontal_move_z: 5 speed: 50 screw_thread: CW-M4 ImplicitAssembler posted:What on earth are you guys doing to your BLtouch? I'm with you on this. People say they get repeatability issues with their touch sensor. I want to know what brand they bought, so I can avoid it. snail fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 01:14
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:Oh yeah, what's the flex bed I need for an ender 3 v2? I figure I may as well junk the piece of poo poo warped glass and not keep banging my head against that wall ENERGETIC New Double Sided PEI Spring Steel Sheet (Textured And Smooth) With Magnetic Base 220/235/310mm For 3D Printer Hot Bed https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqjsQNH I use Energetic beds on all my printers. I got 99 problems but the bed ain't one. PrintBite+ is also awesome but requires setup. The Energetic stuff is solid, sticks well, and cheap. (98 problems are wiring up a Voron build, and 1 is getting to a proper drill press so I can convert a machine to linear rails)
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Sep 4, 2021 23:06
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insta posted:All printers across the board are equally poo poo. This should be the thread title.
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Sep 9, 2021 08:31
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Scarodactyl posted:When would you typically choose abs over petg? For my basic functional parts petg has always been good enough and quite low hassle (aside from the stringing, though that's partially my fault for not keeping it properly dry) but I have kind of wondered what I'm missing with abs. It's one thing to see bullet points on a site or whatever, but I'm curious about people's real-world decision making. Unless you're after the post print treating or the higher heat handling, PETG is fine generally. ABS also has differing elongation and flex behaviours, the reality is most of us don't care. If I need something stronger, ABS is my go to, but only because I can't be bothered dealing with the rare strings of PETG and I was given tens of kg of ABS. The Voron community is full of people trying parts in other materials, and there are many stories of these printers subsequently failing due to heat or stress fractures. ABS sits in that sweet spot for that particular task.
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Sep 12, 2021 22:17
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SquirrelGrip posted:I also found an Aussie company making resin, has anyone here heard of or used monocure3d resins before? They're my go to for resin, and Charlie will bend over backwards to help if you're having weird problems. And they include a Timtam in the shipping box, so they're easily worlds ahead of everyone else. snail fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 24, 2021 06:15
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SquirrelGrip posted:There’s a reseller near my office who has a sample of crystal clear and the cmyk dye kit I grabbed to make some heinous colours, also got some gunmetal grey rapid and resinaway. No free timtam though. I just order online, it arrives within 2 days normally. And I get a Timtam.
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Sep 24, 2021 09:13
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Nerobro posted:Running a resin printer. In a basement. The smell starts.. to get serious. And my buddy with the printer, is concerned for the health of people in the household. It's styrene you can probably smell, and we already know styrene to be bad for long term health. TL;DR if you can smell it, it's giving off something. Even if you can't smell it, it may well be giving off something. I run my resin printers in the garage which I can trivially vent, and we're currently looking at rigging up a resin setup at a hackerspace to run through a similar scrubber vent system as the laser cutters.
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Oct 4, 2021 10:42
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mewse posted:Looks like this github repo has details: I think I'll make one for the fun of it. I don't know what else to do with the remains of my departed printers.
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Oct 16, 2021 02:49
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mewse posted:Have you figured out dimensions of the print bed? It doesn't seem to be listed in the install instructions other than saying it's sanded acrylic. I don't think it's heated either Looking at the bed model, it's 107mm x 107mm, and the manual seems to suggest the bed is the same size. It's not heated, but for a cute small safe-ish PLA printer, it looks like a bit of fun.
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Oct 18, 2021 09:01
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Roundboy posted:My level is spot on, and my zlevel is great, but it seems like my filament is getting a bit too stiff on retraction and casing the nozzle movement to break the parts. It's pla @215 because the manufacturer recommended 210 and it's getting colder in my basement My gut feel is the opposite. Colder, and that you did the Capricorn tube, have you checked your extrusion accuracy? I had a beautifully coloured, but awful to print PLA recently that had filled a rubbish bin with failed prints, until I dropped the temp to 190, and lowered the extrusion another 5% despite my extrusion being accurate and printing other filaments flawlessly. This filament should be rebranded as butter. Aurarum is forever on my do-not-buy list.
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Oct 21, 2021 09:15
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w00tmonger posted:Should I be printing a cube for my prusa mk3s? I was going to but their documentation said not to bother It's a CNC machine, of course you should. With the way people furiously auto-fellate over their Prusas, you'd think there was no chance anything could be wrong... ...but it's still a CNC machine. If your first one is good, then congratulations, and you've confirmed you'll be able to print parts later that fit together without a second thought. One more thing you can be sure about when diagnosing a problem.
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Oct 21, 2021 22:17
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Nerobro posted:When you find out two months later that every single one of your parts is .75% small in one dimension, 1.1% small in another, and .5% small in another dimension. And now every part you printed, is now directional... High five... mills, lasers, 3d printers, I've managed to get all of these out of calibration in some minor way or another, to then run off a bunch of parts because I assumed things were fine only to then have a bin full of useless parts. Doesn't matter the list price of some of this kit was the price of an extremely nice car, if I'd just spent that 20 minutes up front to measure, I'd have saved dozens of hours after. Nerobro posted:I think I agree with this. The trident is what voron was meant to be. As a general purpose printer, for sure. I love my 2.4, but if I were to do it again, hecks yes, a Trident.
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Oct 21, 2021 23:16
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Wanderless posted:My Prusa Mk3 - Octoprint (on a Pi 4) setup would rate limit, particularly on gyroid infill. I guess the dripfeed over USB was the limiting factor. It never caused print artifacts, just slowed things down a bit. I imagine more modern boards handle it fine. Offloading all of the processing to a beefier processor a la Klipper seems to be the current hotness that means your motion controller's speed isn't a factor at all any more. That definitely was an issue with pushing gcode over a USB-serial device at 115k, 230k or 250k serial. There is an upper limit of how much gcode you can send a second at those bit rates. Klipper has a vastly different line protocol, a reduction of over 90% over the wire. Not to mention step rates are substantially higher, simply because the MCU's CPU doesn't have to do any gcode parsing, and can instead dedicate its efforts to stepping fast.
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Nov 3, 2021 09:34
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Sockser posted:But given that it enforces z leveling via … nozzle stress (I don’t really understand what’s going on there) I wonder how you’d manage that without a hot end installed It'll be a piezo sensor or similar. A cheap one I can get from the local electronics store will let me home a printer to within one step, with grams of pressure. Absolutely nothing in terms of force. Using a pen would (I just measured because I was curious) exert more pressure. I measured between 9 and 15 grams when writing with a sharpie. I'm interested in the partial bed heating functionality. The rest of the machine design I'm already using or about to install in some form or another on my other machines.
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Nov 20, 2021 00:31
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Snostorm posted:https://imgur.com/a/CBi9IB9 Yah, one nozzle width high for your first layer is probably a bit high. 75% is about as high as you really want to go with PLA.
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Dec 1, 2021 06:44
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Roundboy posted:Watching a voron build with Thomas Sanladerer has me really, REALLY inspired. I see some of the issues he has with cheap kits Meh. It's fine. I did use a Dragon HF as my hotend as I had one laying around, and I did swap the panels with haircell pattened ABS, but only because I broke one of the originals in a moment of dumb. My 300mm 2.4 prints comfortably at 300mm/s, 10k accelerations, and I haven't bothered testing faster prints because I only save a couple of minutes on a 3 hour print. My rails were clean and coast well, and the plate was tested on a surface as being at spec. I don't have ringing or other artifacts, the noisiest part of the machine is the heatbreak fan and the worst part of a larger bed is the heat soak (the Prusa XL design is really neat there) The only things that have broken are things I broke because I'm occasionally an idiot. You won't be breaking 5 minute Benchys with the official BoM either, part snobbery only gets you so far. Would I buy another Formbot kit? Yes. Would I buy a LDO kit? Yes. Have I seen badly built bling machines ? Heck yes, there's plenty of them. Take your time and do it with pride, you'll have an excellent machine that leaves many more expensive machines in the dust.
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Dec 2, 2021 08:49
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Roundboy posted:I thought I was pretty solid going forward with a marlin board (and basically using octoprint / klipper) but i am really starting to like the look of the reprap firmware, but the Duet board is $$$ https://github.com/Stephan3/dwc2-for-klipper Get the UI, have the joy of klipper's performance and ease of config. Spend the difference on an Octopus with good drivers, or a nicer hotend. If you want to use a PanelDue, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7yqrAaUMPw, Nero 3D has you covered, although I personally much prefer KlipperScreen.
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Dec 4, 2021 02:18
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Roundboy posted:Hmm. bring the printer down for a tune up and replacement shroud and fans, or start a 24 print ? You'll end up accepting the parts, build the Voron, run off your first prints, and immediately prepare a list of parts you'll reprint on the Voron.
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Dec 9, 2021 08:17
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Dr. Despair posted:I'm a fan of smearing the inside of printed flower pots with wood glue to get them water tight. Its way quicker than trying to get print settings good enough to be perfectly water tight (lots and lots of places for pinholes to exist!) Wood glue, as in PVA, or something else? I wouldn't have thought PVA would have worked well enough.
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Dec 14, 2021 23:38
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Because, as this thread has repeatedly proven, people only print meaningful things and Prusas never break. As someone who runs a fab at a hackerspace, I almost spat out my coffee laughing as I read this. Both parts.
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Dec 17, 2021 22:36
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Isometric Bacon posted:Anyone had any experience printing costume armour? I don't do it seriously, and haven't made anything for myself that I can show off, the only advice I'd give is perimeters equals durability, and don't be afraid to up your nozzle size for fewer thicker layers. You're going to be post processing all the same, so go for speed and strength.
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Dec 18, 2021 21:45
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Vaporware posted:Got it. I will start reading more. The downside of getting a it-just-works prusa is that it works well enough out of the box, so I don't know much outside the walled garden of built in settings, so far. Nothing really changes about how you use the printer, although I found I had to lower my print temperatures, to even values that seem nuts. eSun ABSmax at 215 degrees! A Microswiss setup I also print ABS on routinely needs 235-240 degrees with the same filament. The resulting parts are strong, neat as gently caress, and there is very little ooze even with the 0.6mm nozzle. Whatever is going on internally it's transferring heat into the filament that much more efficiently. Only downside I've seen so far is that the nozzle can get some material build up over time, but my fingernail removes it when cool.
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Dec 24, 2021 22:39
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insta posted:So how many active participants (all 10 of us) actually have Vorons? I've got 3, with 2 more in the pipeline. I only have a 2.4, having joined the Voron community this year. I'm still tossing up between a 0.1 and a Switchwire as another machine, but I suspect the 0 will win out. There are serious considerations such as what pattern am I going to etch into the extrusion.
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Dec 25, 2021 22:14
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Vaporware posted:CHT setting modifications seem to have worked on PLA? I'm totally shooting in the dark here. I basically made sure the MVS was set to 15 mm3/s and started making all the speeds much faster without changing any of the other 0.2 presets. all the base speeds went to 160 mm/s. external speed at 70% of that(112). bridging & gap fill to 80 That's a drat nice outcome for a bedslinger, and the print was pretty decent too. A friend bought a size range, just to see how the 1.8mm nozzle went with 1.75 filament. I did swap my Voron back to a 0.4mm last night to reprint the afterburner fan shroud, as I just couldn't get the R and O insides to stick and I got sick of playing with it. Also swapped the Dragon over with a spare. For some reason I was getting jams mid heatbreak. Not clogs, just a piece of broken filament that wouldn't move until removed the nozzle, no matter which nozzle. I have come to appreciate the one hand changes on the Dragon and how easily the Afterburner comes apart.
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Dec 26, 2021 22:54
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Sagebrush posted:Why does Creality not simply clone the MK3S exactly? It would be a lovely move, but all the parts are up in their site for free download, and surely they could do it for much less than 750 dollars since they aren't spending any money on R&D. That would sure shut up all us Prusa people. Many companies did. They don't anymore, instead having newer designs on sale. Beyond that, there is no answer to your question that does not invoke the religious zeal of the faithful.
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Dec 29, 2021 02:09
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insta posted:You're doing a lot more research on this than I am, I'm going by memory which is pre-COVID helltime, and I'm sorry. The cloned EINSY previously was ~ $50, as well as in-stock on TriangleLab. That's where my total number came from. I absolutely don't understand why that would be a competitive price from China then if a genuine printer is like 10% more and comes with support. For what it's worth, even express shipped I can land that TL clone for just over $600 AUD. Add maybe ~ $100 if I really felt like adding a blinged out 32-bit MCU. OTOH a mostly assembled MKS3 in Australia is over $2,000 AUD. I have compared a TL clone side by side against a genuine machine. I couldn't tell bar the brand markings, and the owner of the farm doesn't buy the Prusa brand anymore. Not when it's a third of the price and the failure rate of the TL is lower, and the workflow is the same. But I imagine you understand, no true Scotsman...
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Dec 29, 2021 22:34
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insta posted:For whatever it's worth, I'm a huge fan of TL and have also noticed a comparably lower failure rate for their products vs. genuines (specifically in the touch probes). Trianglelab is definitely one of my go to for various things. And they manage to ship here really quick, routinely in 7 or 8 days for the cheapest shipping option. Unrelated to this particular conversation, printing eSun gold ABS+ on any of my printers is an exercise in WTFism. I'm printing the parts for a Voron 0.1 for a friend as a small thankyou for a printer he gave me to finish off a Voron 2.4. Purple, white, and gold is his chosen 0.1 design. The 2.4 being as big as it is, does have a slight bi-metal effect on the X gantry and the linear rails. It's not enough to cause a problem most of the time, and it's trivially compensated for in software (we're talking 0.04mm in my case), but wow, this gold filament is just a pain to work with. First layer mostly goes down nice with obvious too-high symptoms towards the center of the bed, the second layer has a tantrum about sticking anywhere, and then third and above works perfectly producing beautiful parts. I have to heat soak the machine for a good 20 to 30 minutes to ensure the full bowing has occurred on the X rail before I bed mesh it, as the gold ABS+ really is finicky about layer heights. A few hundredths of a mm either way, it just doesn't stick properly. No other filament I have behaves this way, but it has annoyed me enough to go source some titanium backers for the gantry rails, and I'll be doing the MGN12 conversion for the Stealthburner once it's out of beta.
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Dec 30, 2021 00:23
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Wanderless posted:I suspect your problem is with the bed, not the gantry/rails. Make sure you don't have the bed over-constrained. If you follow the assembly manual and have all four screws tightened, especially on a 350mm bed, it can warp pretty significantly. The heat soak requirement is unfortunately just a reality of having such a massive chunk of aluminum to heat. I thought it was that at first too, but it's definitely not a constrained bed. There's only a 0.04mm deviation in the gantry when hot, and there's less than a 0.1mm 300x300 deviation across the bed when hot. I've tried 4 different bed surfaces, and other ABS+ filaments print the exact same gcode without a problem. It's as if this gold filament doesn't want to stick to itself, and my theory is the only thing I can rationalise. If it was first layer, I'd be totally in on the bed is crap/HaVe YoU LeVeLeD, but that goes down fine other than the very center. It's the second layer that craps out. I have wondered if it's something to do with the bed mesh itself fading out too fast with Z height, but we're talking 1 layer, and it doesn't happen with other ABS+ filaments. My little bit of religious observance seems to get it to print fine. Why? It's honestly beyond me, and I've probably missed something. EDIT: To be clear, it's as if it doesn't want to stick on top of the hot first layer, that's nearly as hot as the PEI the first layer is stuck to. snail fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Dec 30, 2021 |
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Dec 30, 2021 05:34
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insta posted:The fix is either a single rail (which is oriented in Z, so the deflection is down the Y axis), or a somewhat sacrificial member on the opposing side of the Z-deflecting-rail. The hotness was machined strips of Titanium that just force the rail to keep it's shape. The gold ABS+ and I came to an understanding. 24 hours of printing at speed, and I only had a single failed part. The issue really seemed to be related to heat, and I couldn't figure out the exact numbers it would accept, it definitely looked like layer adhesion though. Now that the Voron 0.1 parts are finished, I'm happily retiring that filament to the collection of oddities on the shelf that I'll hoard but probably never use again. Meanwhile, I swapped over to a roll of blue ABS+, and it went down perfectly. Now I'm running off some black ABSmax, and it's as beautiful as can be.
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Dec 31, 2021 02:02
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smax posted:If this is what you’re doing, go to the Prusa website and look for a pre-sliced file for your specific printer and material. Or just grab Superslicer, the fork of Prusaslicer. It'll bring in configs from Prusaslicer just fine. Right there in the calibration menu is a documented generator for many common tests, including a temperature tower.
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Jan 7, 2022 09:10
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RabbitWizard posted:I stopped being mad at myself, now I'm mad at PrusaSlicer. It doesn't matter what extrusion width you use, PrusaSlicer will adjust it in places. So using a "0" everywhere is still fine. Have you tried it in Superslicer? Almost identical UX wise, uses the same profiles, and I know Remi has put a lot of work into extrusion width and infill management. I'm genuinely curious if it'd do better.
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Jan 8, 2022 23:15
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Dr. Despair posted:Somewhere between 0 and $1000 on top of the initial investment, depending on what formbot actually sends. The current kit is substantially more bling than the kit I bought in early 2020. What I replaced that I considered worth replacing, in AUD: - Energetic PEI bed sheet - $28 - Z cable chain with opening links - $15 - 3 x PWM capable 6020 fans that don't have auto-restart. I don't need these, but I wanted to PWM my fans down to quiet speeds. The provided Sunons are $24 AUD a piece from Mouser, the replacements were $12 AUD each. Pretty bling that I don't need but I replaced anyway: - Dragon HF with an 80w heater I had laying around - $whatever it cost, it was off another printer I retired, but I see no reason why the provided hotend wouldn't have worked - Bondtech CHT Nozzle - $40 AUD - ABS panels, because I accidentally wrecked one with my impatience - $135 AUD, not needed, I could have welded the stock parts back together - SchmidtProto FFC kit to replace the X and Y cable chains - $40 USD shipped - X and Y backers, they're kinda not needed if you bed mesh after heating the bed, and you've let the X linear rail sit near the bed to soak in some warmth. Even with the bi-metal effect, the net effect was 0.02mm or so across the 300mm bed. I can't remember, but it was like $120 USD or something shipped. With the upcoming MGN12 changes these are even less relevant. - Extra Omron mouse button things, because I'm putting a Klicky on there, $10 So all up, $79 AUD more to replace things I didn't want to use. $525-ish AUD to put bling on there. If you're in the US or Canada, pricing maybe not be as favourable from Formbot et al direct, so yeah, stick with your local suppliers.
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Jan 12, 2022 09:10
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w00tmonger posted:cr-30 has always sounded appealing, but I struggle with all the issues people have had with it. Some people have, for sure. Mine has been pretty drat good from the get go. The hardest part is grokking the best way to align and slice when you're running at 45 degrees, and I suspect that's where people get tripped up. Of course, I can't help but mod it. Linear rail X and Y, Klipper, Orbiter extruder as a direct drive, and a 7" LCD touch screen. It certainly didn't need those mods though.
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Jan 13, 2022 04:39
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Hypnolobster posted:100c heated enclosure is pretty gnarly business, and I've gone so far towards engineering filaments (dumb term) that I can't even print PLA easily anymore because I don't have enough part cooling. You know, you're only one more mod away from fixing that...
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Jan 14, 2022 01:05
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blugu64 posted:Blue tape on a magnetic flexible build tape? Go/No go. Why are you using blue tape? I assume that you have a removable bed there, is it not PEI? (Yes, you can, but why?)
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Jan 15, 2022 23:19
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blugu64 posted:I like my blue tape. It just works for me and I basically never have to fiddle with adhesion. Just replace it now and again. I used it a lot in the past, but nowadays I don't bother, finding it less capable than a good PEI bed. Energetic on AliExpress are my go to for spring steel swappable PEI. I replied because I did try blue tape on a steel sheet just recently, and yeah it works as blue tape does. My question was more about why persist given there are (IMO) better options that aren't expensive.
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Jan 16, 2022 00:04
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