Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
insta
Jan 28, 2009

Bondematt posted:

Alright, just bit the bullet and preordered a Voron 0.1 LDO kit from Fabreeko.

Love my Ender 3 V2 for what it is, a starter printer, but there's only so far you can go without throwing money at a cheap design.

Ender gets to stick around for larger prints for now, but the Voron will probably be like 90% of my printing. At some point I want to do a 2.4 for my larger prints, but assuming this LDO kit is as good as they say, I'll order their 2.4 kit whenever it drops.

Fabreeko's great.

Get a 1.8 kit once LDO comes out with that. The 1.8 needs more love.

(also who are you on the discord?)

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Doctor Zero posted:

So kind of like poison ivy then? I used to think I wasn’t allergic to it and used to pull it out by hand until one day OOPS YOU GET REACTIONS NOW.

I was just curious if you had seen or learned of any example cases. Didn’t mean it had to be you or that I doubted it. Just a lot of people say it is bad (and I believe them) but I am curious about how it manifests.

I developed a sensitivity to d-Limonene and Simpact 60A by being careless with them. Now if I handle either and get them on my skin, my face puffs up and my ears cauliflower.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Combat Pretzel posted:

I don't understand the appeal of the V0 in respect to its cost vs its tiny build plate.

--edit:
Also, you instazx2?

yes. new discord who dis

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Combat Pretzel posted:

I don't understand the appeal of the V0 in respect to its cost vs its tiny build plate.

it hauls rear end on any print you can fit into the build plate, and heats quickly

insta
Jan 28, 2009
ok cross-platform drama, any other voron discord members annoyed by RoobianGamer yet

i keep catching poo poo from the admins re: him

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Combat Pretzel posted:

That some auto-correct thing? There's no one with that name on the Discord. You mean that robertt with two T's guy?

--edit: Oh, RubianGamer.

IDK, I see he's from Belgium/Netherlands. I'm not sure why the admins are giving you poo poo in regards to him, but it might be an idea to point out that he's from #windmills_waffles, because these idiots are on thin ice due to the Klipper brigading/trolling during Tom Sanladerer's livestreams.

I use roob as habit now so it's less ctrl+f friendly. He's basically just always camping gchat turning every conversation back to him or his projects.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Dr. Despair posted:

Why do you think I barely chat there anymore

please open admin tickets about him, even if he's not breaking rules. same with anyone else here who wants gchat back.

I've had discussions with the admins many times, and it really is "if people don't open tickets we don't know it's an issue". he caught a mute for several days because of an admin ticket, and i bet if he catches enough mutes he goes away entirely.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
He got a harness made by LINNEO, but what was custom was the termination on the ends. Anyone in the US can get that harness for just about any build from kb3d who is a US reseller.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Hadlock, enable expert settings and remove the volumetric flow limit set on your plastic. It's under the filament tab.

Set your perimeter speed to 40mm/s, layer height to 0.3mm, perimeter width to 1.2mm and enjoy.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
eddie is smort

insta
Jan 28, 2009

hmm, printer in the picture isn't a Prusa

insta
Jan 28, 2009
It doesn't matter how new the filament is or what desiccant it was packed with. That's all theater and should not be relied on for stuff that must print dry. Do it yourself.

That said, i don't see the problem with that filament. Unless I was missing something, the print looks fine?

insta
Jan 28, 2009

w00tmonger posted:

I mean if anything it's probably somethi g they'd be happy to know about

Probably helps them find holes in there process where moisture got introduced in the warehouse or whatever

The moisture in the roll was probably from the water bath used to cool the extruded plastic. Desiccant and vacuum bags are theater, dry your poo poo if it needs it.

this post brought to you by ultem. gently caress ultem.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Gonna try printing some polyphenylsulfone today. wish me luck

insta
Jan 28, 2009
guys do not buy the cheap nozzles on amazon ffs

They are poorly machined and you will be chasing issues for a lot longer than if you'd gotten a decent, but still not terribly expensive, nozzle from TriangleLab / DForce / Phaetus / other vendors.

There are several US vendors with good pricing for nozzles if you're interested in a list.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Ambrose Burnside posted:

I’m a resin guy so i’m shooting from the hip here, but (aside from material choice) the difference between a budget nozzle and a premium nozzle is largely going to be finish quality and consistency, right? So why not treat this like any other roughly-finished tool and just do the final finishing and QA yourself?

Because the cheap nozzles are $0.37 each and the right nozzles are $3 each, and transforming a cheap nozzle to the right nozzle takes more than $2.63 worth of my time, by a long shot.

Here are domestic vendors of nozzles (mostly stolen from the Voron Discord vendors):

* https://deepfriedhero.in/products/plated-copper-nozzle-v6
* https://www.fabreeko.com/products/copy-of-phaetus-harden-steel-nozzle-v6-nozzles?variant=38322166137030

If you have the time to wait, get whatever you want from the TriangleLab Aliexpress store. They're an RUNICE reseller, and the parts are perfect.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

cakesmith handyman posted:

Has anyone got a big matrix of filament types vs use/properties? Like this has uv tolerance, this shrinks after printing, this is better to be left on the dash of a hot car, that sort of thing?

Each filament is good at a lot of things. It's probably best to post your use-case and printer, and we can recommend filaments.




comedy option: use polysulfone for everything. poo poo rules

insta
Jan 28, 2009

biracial bear for uncut posted:

For $150+/kg it better.

i'm sorry i dont speak broke $13/kg pla printers


i dont speak $150/kg either since i'm also broke from buying a shitload of $13/kg pla

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Fabreeko is selling ender 3 returns for $99 if anyone wants a second printer.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

cakesmith handyman posted:

Ender 3 pro, standard QOL upgrades, spring steel PEI bed.

Use case 1: something that's going to be outside permanently, weather and UV stable required.

Use case 2: higher temperature resistance than PLA, parts to go inside a car (but not in the engine bay)

ASA does both, and will print on PEI in a passive enclosure on a Creality machine. Enjoy!

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Anyone who wants cheap Enders, email info@fabreeko.com

They are used returns to Amazon, so they'll all need something stupid, like a new nozzle or setting the voltage on the power supply correctly, or whatever thing the previous owner couldn't figure out.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Scarodactyl posted:

How cheap we talking?

sometimes more than half off

insta
Jan 28, 2009

simmyb posted:

Double post for another question.

I've got a bunch of leftover 2020 extrusions and MGN9 rails from an old project I pulled apart. Thinking about making a version of the Voron 0.

BIGGEST question is though: I have plain/natural coloured extrusions. What colours do I do the prints?

Currently thinking all purple no accents OR cyan with hot pink accents. Already have a cyan printer though.

look up the Tiny-M, and your only choice is natural ABS

insta
Jan 28, 2009

simmyb posted:

I found the Tiny M not long after my last post and have begun modifying it to suit my parts. They have it all in onshape which is super handy to copy and change.

Natural ABS tho? Like the cream/off white???

Oh yeah. Looks good with natural extrusions and black-oxide fasteners, and upside they're all cheap and hella strong.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Toebone posted:

I've got my new Ender 3 setup and was trying the dog test print; came back a few hours later and found the filament that came with the printer (sans spool) had gotten tangled on itself and snapped. Is there a good way of rewinding it to prevent that, or should I just wait til I have an empty spool to put it on?

FYI, the filament doesn't randomly tangle. You did that. On the other hand, it's a rite of passage that everyone goes through.

To fix it, loosen a handful of coils on the spool and pull them over the edge. You have to get several at once. If you have 3 or more stands connecting your coils to the spool, you did it right. Keep pulling coils off sideways until there's just one strand connecting them to the spool. Now, wind the coils back on, and you'll chase the tangle out.

Then, never ever let the free end of the filament float. It must be in your fingers, the printer, or the holes in the spool. The second you drop it, assume it tangled and pull the coils off again and rewind.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

w00tmonger posted:

Anyone sell FDM prints that has a good guide for pricing things etc?

Looking to sell small stuff online allongside my resin stuff, but really not sure what's reasonable.

I do 6x material cost plus $1-2 per hour, plus a startup fee if it needs it.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
ooooh, missed that. my cr10 came with a spool, my bad.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Whole lotta people ITT undervaluing their time and effort for selling prints. Stop chasing prices to the bottom.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
is it ok to post a forsale once here for my CR10/10S4's? really want them gone :(

insta
Jan 28, 2009


Speaking of modding Crealities for reliability, mine are still looking for homes :homebrew:

insta
Jan 28, 2009

sharkytm posted:

"A Prusa is totally overkill, and the ender is a better alternative" strikes again.

All printers across the board are equally poo poo.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
I did that for a 3dhubs job. Customer ordered 400 pieces, I printed 130 on an i3 and 310 on a Voron Legacy. The i3 had some weird artifact that was still within quality standards but different than the Legacy, so I got to reprint all 130 pieces on my dime (instead of 90 to make it the original order of 400).

No good deed went unpunished there.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

InternetJunky posted:

I just added a Elegoo Saturn to my lineup. Is there anyone out there that has a Saturn and a Mars2 Pro? Do you use the same settings on both? My Mono X died a horrible death yesterday so I'm kind of desperate to get printing again as fast as possible without having to do a day of exposure tests.

I've tried twice now to get into FDM printing but I absolutely hate the "tinkering" aspect of these printers. I want a tool I can use, not something that is a project in and of itself. Based on your comment I'm kind of hopeful -- is the Prusa going to fulfill what I'm looking for?

Buy my ready-to-use CR10, it is currently "push button receive part" :D

insta
Jan 28, 2009

InternetJunky posted:

See note about CR-10 above.

Yeah but I already did the tweaking and tinkering and replacing of the fire-causing bits with other, different, fire-causing bits.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

NewFatMike posted:

I'm hoping to pick up some fancy printers, new job willing, and I'm awfully tempted to set up a huge sized Voron 2.4 with an E3D tool changer for large carbon fiber prints with PVA supports. If Prusa beats me to the punch, hell frigging yeah

Build a Trident for that. Stationary gantry = ezpz toolchangers.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
If anyone is on the fence about gloves and resin, my sample size of one is that I now have a permanent moderate allergy to d-Limonene (and a mild allergy to peeling oranges) because I used it with bare hands, assuming it was safe because it came from oranges. This was 4 years ago and I still puff up like the Michelin man if I get near d-Limonene.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Ghostnuke posted:

I've upgraded the bowden tube and connectors, and the the extruder. I've tinkered with it for hours and hours and hours.

I don't think I can get as big of a build area in my budget, looks like 150 - 200 mm would be the biggest. $400 or thereabouts would be the budget.

Looking at these two so far:

https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=33820

https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=36045

I like that they have assisted/automatic bed leveling.

My working, modded, self-leveling CR10 with a bunch of upgrades?

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Nerobro posted:

Awesome for getting things to print.

First, the long leg pig? That needed supports. Also, there's a layer shift there, and it appears you've got something going on with your extrusion.

You should stop, and tune up that printer, you'll have a much better time in the future, if you get things right ~now~.

Print us a benchy, will you?

Nah, let him have fun with the printer :) Don't take the magic away just yet.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
The two on the left are bubbles under the mat, and the one on the right is a fingerprint.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

insta
Jan 28, 2009
Re nozzlechat: I suggested the same thing to my buddy with an Ender3, and he picked a similar batch of 10/$8 nozzles from Amazon. They were poo poo quality, and you can't tell by looking at them. We put one under a microscope and found that the nozzle hole was both off-center and off-parallel to the extrusion path. It looks like instead of being machined, it was chucked into a fixture and hit with a drill press. This stupid nozzle caused him no end of tuning problems, inconsistent extrusion, quality that changed by which side of the part you looked at, and more.

If you value your time at all buy a $5-15 nozzle from a known vendor like MicroSwiss, E3D, TriangleLab, Phaetus, etc.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply