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Toebone posted:Been looking at FDM printers, and microcenter has the Ender 3 Pro on sale for $100 after coupon. Unfortunately my local store is sold out and I'd have to drive an hour + tolls to the Brooklyn store. I’d recommend the v2 over the pro, mainly because it comes with a 32bit silent mainboard. However that’s only a $36 upgrade for the pro. Whatever you go for, buy a metal extruder ($10) and yellow bed springs ($7) to save yourself having to deal with the stock setup.
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Aug 26, 2021 18:47
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Toebone posted:Been looking at FDM printers, and microcenter has the Ender 3 Pro on sale for $100 after coupon. Unfortunately my local store is sold out and I'd have to drive an hour + tolls to the Brooklyn store. At $99, I think it's a steal. The Ender 3 v2 is better, but I don't think it's $150 better. Either one of them needs about $20 in upgrades to get it really humming/replace the "this is definitely going to break on you" bits; the v2 has a bootloader which is nice, and it has built-in belt tensioners, which are nice, and it has a tool tray, which is, yeah, nice. But you can print belt tensioners and a tool tray. You will want to flash a bootloader and while it's pretty straightforward, it's very possible (probable) that you don't have what you need on-hand, so that's an added expense unless you can find a fellow enthusiast close by that's willing to do it for you. Edit - This is the upgrade kit you'll want for either the E3P or the E3v2. You'll also probably want some better couplers for the Bowden tube - I bought this pack but I had three printers to do between me and my father; you really just need two of the black couplers. Pentecoastal Elites posted:a picture of some extruded licorice on a build plate I lack the expertise to even begin diagnosing this, except that it kinda sorta looks like your nozzle is too far away from your bed. becoming fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Aug 26, 2021 |
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Aug 26, 2021 18:51
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becoming posted:I lack the expertise to even begin diagnosing this, except that it kinda sorta looks like your nozzle is too far away from your bed. A combo of a bad z offset and too low of a bed temp. my reprint is humming along smoothly after I tweaked them. Only about 20% complete but it looks pretty spot on so far. e:  There we go, a little more respectable. Pentecoastal Elites fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 26, 2021 |
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Aug 26, 2021 18:54
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I had a print once where I watched the first layer go down, played a game for like 3 hours, then when I came back there was nothing on the build plate and the printer was in the parked position. I couldn't find the thing I printed at all, and thought I was going crazy, like maybe I never started the print? Found it a week later chucked backwards off the machine and in the gap under a shelf. Looked almost exactly like that, but on like layer 2.
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Aug 26, 2021 21:50
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To be fair, automated shame hiding is a pretty cool feature
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Aug 26, 2021 22:18
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becoming posted:At $99, I think it's a steal. The Ender 3 v2 is better, but I don't think it's $150 better. Either one of them needs about $20 in upgrades to get it really humming/replace the "this is definitely going to break on you" bits; the v2 has a bootloader which is nice, and it has built-in belt tensioners, which are nice, and it has a tool tray, which is, yeah, nice. But you can print belt tensioners and a tool tray. You will want to flash a bootloader and while it's pretty straightforward, it's very possible (probable) that you don't have what you need on-hand, so that's an added expense unless you can find a fellow enthusiast close by that's willing to do it for you. Thanks! I ended up getting it, the guy said they'd been flying off the shelf. Came with a $10 off coupon for filament too. Looking forward to playing with it this weekend.
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Aug 27, 2021 03:08
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Man, for the longest time I was getting nothing but failed prints on my Photon. Then I switched resins and I can’t get one to fail unless I try. I’m not even being particularly careful right now, doing things like printing flat on the build plate, rushing exposures, and things are still coming out great. Guess it all goes to show there are just some poo poo resins out there.
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Aug 27, 2021 04:04
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Martytoof posted:Man, for the longest time I was getting nothing but failed prints on my Photon. Then I switched resins and I can’t get one to fail unless I try. I’m not even being particularly careful right now, doing things like printing flat on the build plate, rushing exposures, and things are still coming out great. Guess it all goes to show there are just some poo poo resins out there. Name and shame. What brands are you / were you using?
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Aug 27, 2021 04:26
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:thank you both -- I removed my Z screw and loosened the wheel plate connections to the gantry, and there was enough play there to let me get everything dead nuts level and reinstall the Z screw. Yeah, far and away the biggest issue with Ender 3 build quality is just the actual build process. It's less true on the v2, but you definitely still need to take a ton of care with assembly. I bought an original Ender 3 for <$50 off a dude who had it for several years, tinkered with it like crazy, but could never, ever get it to print reliably. All I did was clean a huge blob of death from the hot end (didn't even replace the nozzle at the time!) and completely disassemble and reassemble the whole machine. It's been working flawlessly for me for pretty close to a year now. It's not even an issue of poor instructions, it's just a problem that things won't naturally square out so you need to be absolutely sure that everything is level or you'll have endless issues that are impossible to track down.
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Aug 27, 2021 04:39
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After having the bargain Ender 3 Pro for 1 week I have been able get some good prints but... I upgraded to a metal extruder and Capricorn tube during initial assembly. I also put on the heavier yellow springs. It was loud enough that I decided to buy the 4.2.7 silent board upgrade and some silent fans. I swapped in the new board and replaced the hot end and mobo fans. Print quality seemed better with the new board but then the prints were good enough that I was able to see that there was a large dip in the center of the bed so anything large had a large amount of warping. I also found the base came way out of square and had to loosen everything and square up the base and then resquare the support arms. Swapped the magnetic flex bed for a creality glass bed + clips to compensate for the warped bed. But the stronger springs don't compress enough to accommodate a glass bed so I had to move the z limit switch up a few mm. Also had to track down some aquanet at Walmart to get the glass bed to stick to the filament and release easily when done. I'm now able to get decent prints. Made a bunch of toys for my son and printed out a filament guide and a fan silencer for the PSU that are halfway decent.   So all told I'm at somewhere around $200 for the Printer and the upgrades. I'm still considering a CR touch but kind of want to get more practice printing before adding another variable. I enjoy tinkering and went into this expecting a steep learning curve and plenty of trial and error. Currently printing an all in one printer test model at 70mm/s speed to see what else needs tweaking.  Edit: realized the bottom left corner of the skirt looked wonky, did some manual tweaking and cancelled the print. Then Printed a Chep bed Level test that printed and also released perfectly.  Now to reprint the all in one printer test and see how it all looks tomorrow morning. my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Aug 27, 2021 |
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Aug 27, 2021 05:35
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csammis posted:Name and shame. What brands are you / were you using? The good hotness in my vat is Sirayatech “fast” grey. The poo poo ones were all Anycubic’s OEM resins if you can believe it. I thought I couldn’t go wrong buying OEM but here we are. Maybe I kept getting a bad batch or something but I seriously estimate that I had maybe a 25% keeper rate with those resins. So far my only reject with Sirayatech was my fault, printing directly on the build plate and having the part snap when I tried to pry it loose. So not even a failed print, just an uncured print snapping under pressure. Otherwise I’m eight for eight in prints since I started using it last month. I don’t do a LOT of printing so hopefully it ages gracefully over the next twelve months, but I’m happy replacing it with another bottle in a year if it lasts and if it keeps feeding me great prints.
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Aug 27, 2021 12:01
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Same here - fantastic results with Sirayatech, switched to Anycubic because I heard the Eco resin has less odor (maybe a bit less, but it still stinks), and have had a bunch of print failures ever since. Switching back to Siraya for the next bottle.
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Aug 27, 2021 12:26
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At some point I should maybe print one of those calibration plates to figure out optimal exposure. I don't want to keep relying on this resin being idiot-proof but it's making a strong case to just keep using as is 
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Aug 27, 2021 13:21
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Doctor Zero posted:This is what Prusa says. I haven’t had to yet, so who knows if it works. Thanks. What I ended up going with is what some people on the Prusa forums said works well for the smooth PEI: Clean really well with dish soap. Rinse. Go over fairly gently with water and melamine 'magic eraser'. Rinse and dry. Seems to be working really well so far 
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Aug 28, 2021 01:36
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Double post for another question. I've got a bunch of leftover 2020 extrusions and MGN9 rails from an old project I pulled apart. Thinking about making a version of the Voron 0. BIGGEST question is though: I have plain/natural coloured extrusions. What colours do I do the prints? Currently thinking all purple no accents OR cyan with hot pink accents. Already have a cyan printer though.
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Aug 28, 2021 01:40
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Y'all making me nervous throwing shade at the anycubic goo. Since getting my photon mono last week I've gone through a kg of eco gray and the only failures I've had were user error like bad orientations, insufficient supports (or in one case, none at all ), or forgetting to fasten the build plate. Even had an oops today where I printed supported models with negative z-axis elevation, but other than some missing chunks filled in with green stuff, the remainder turned out alright.
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Aug 28, 2021 02:55
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Purely anecdotal on my part. Corroborated by one other poster but it could still just be a fluke. If it’s working for you then I wouldn’t worry in the least. I’m on an OG Photon and not mono so could be that it’s a combination of factors too.
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Aug 28, 2021 03:04
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I unfucked the heatbreak on my Mini+ and now it's a complete champ, no issues whatsoever  (Having said that, I'm sure it will gently caress up in some annoying way tomorrow)
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Aug 28, 2021 03:25
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Guest2553 posted:Y'all making me nervous throwing shade at the anycubic goo. Since getting my photon mono last week I've gone through a kg of eco gray and the only failures I've had were user error like bad orientations, insufficient supports (or in one case, none at all When I started I used a few bottles of Anycubic resin. It was fine. But now I use Phrozen 4K resin because I like the color and flexibility of the parts compared to anything else.
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Aug 28, 2021 03:49
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Guest2553 posted:Y'all making me nervous throwing shade at the anycubic goo. Since getting my photon mono last week I've gone through a kg of eco gray and the only failures I've had were user error like bad orientations, insufficient supports (or in one case, none at all I've had no issues either on my mono with the standard Anycubic resin, even after I scratched and dented the hell out of the fep trying to get failed (due to user error) prints off when I was still learning. Have since worked out how to get prints off without loving up the fep and ordered a replacement fep but the resin itself has been foolproof so far. Trying monocure next cos that's easy/cheap to get.
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Aug 28, 2021 07:42
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Martytoof posted:Purely anecdotal on my part. Corroborated by one other poster but it could still just be a fluke. If it’s working for you then I wouldn’t worry in the least. Obvious question but have you done an exposure calibration print for the resin which is failing?
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Aug 28, 2021 17:01
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Obvious question but have you done an exposure calibration print for the resin which is failing? I tried, but ironically the print failed and stuck to the FEP instead. I think at that point I just kind of shrugged and stopped 3D printing for a while.
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Aug 28, 2021 19:13
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Anybody seen Sirayatech Sculpt Ultra available for sale, like, anywhere? Or a comparable product? I'm being extremely conservative with my current bottle because there doesn't seem to be a comparable substitute product for high-temp applications like mine, and Siraya doesn't seem to be in any rush to produce more of it after the initial production run. The original Sculpt is probably the closest thing to it I can find, but even sculpt's 160C temp rating won't cut it for my application.
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Aug 28, 2021 21:36
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Prusaslicer is really nice most of the time but God drat it's loving awful at dialing in supports. Also fan/bridge/overhang settings, but that's another post. Little tiny part, 0.12 layers, max/min on the printer tab is set to .24 maximum layer and Prusaslicer insists on making GBS threads out a 0.4mm layer support. Contact Z distance changes nothing unless it's 0. Gonna make me launch Cura again for the first time in months.  e:  Detect bridging perimeters was somehow creating a massive first layer on an overhang.. Because that's really a spectacular way to start an overhang??  Also pictured, the stupid as hell first layer they still haven't fixed from the Slic3r days. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 01:27
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3d printer test turned out a bit stringy on the 75 and 80 degree overhangs and the string test towers in the back. I liked the adhesion on the chep bed level test so I decided to try his hot end temp of 205 and bed temp of 50 which may have been a mistake. I have also had the filament in open air for a week so it was popping quite a bit while printing. Once I move in a few weeks I will have to get the Dog Food Treat Maker Kit food dehydrator I use for drying brass ammunition cases and repurpose it as a filament dryer. But overall the print turned out decent.   I'm still waiting for a bunch of monoprice filament I ordered over a week ago to ship. Not sure if they ran out or there is something wrong with my order. I'll have to call and check if it doesn't ship by monday. my turn in the barrel fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 01:57
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Martytoof posted:I tried, but ironically the print failed and stuck to the FEP instead. Fair enough!
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Aug 29, 2021 02:51
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody seen Sirayatech Sculpt Ultra available for sale, like, anywhere? Or a comparable product? I'm being extremely conservative with my current bottle because there doesn't seem to be a comparable substitute product for high-temp applications like mine, and Siraya doesn't seem to be in any rush to produce more of it after the initial production run. The original Sculpt is probably the closest thing to it I can find, but even sculpt's 160C temp rating won't cut it for my application. Possibly you complaining, but this was brought up on Facebook by someone and frankly I've lost all faith in sirayatech to carry a product consistently
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Aug 29, 2021 03:36
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Obvious question but have you done an exposure calibration print for the resin which is failing? I just did one, I can't print anything else for the life of me but both the XP2 test and Amerilabs Town came out flawless. 
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Aug 29, 2021 13:39
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simmyb posted:Double post for another question. look up the Tiny-M, and your only choice is natural ABS
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Aug 29, 2021 16:30
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Picked up some anycubic eco-black on sale and have had 6/23 models print correctly. Friendship ended with black resin. Now grey resin is my best friend.
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Aug 29, 2021 18:14
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insta posted:look up the Tiny-M, and your only choice is natural ABS I found the Tiny M not long after my last post and have begun modifying it to suit my parts. They have it all in onshape which is super handy to copy and change. Natural ABS tho? Like the cream/off white???
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Aug 29, 2021 22:05
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simmyb posted:I found the Tiny M not long after my last post and have begun modifying it to suit my parts. They have it all in onshape which is super handy to copy and change. Oh yeah. Looks good with natural extrusions and black-oxide fasteners, and upside they're all cheap and hella strong.
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Aug 29, 2021 22:15
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Guest2553 posted:Friendship ended with black resin. Soooo my next print went even worse, at about 90% through the LCD did that thing where it was littered with vertical lines and started printing spaghetti and some of the tear force ripped a hole in the FEP. While cleaning out the resin from the inside, the LCD cable tore. And I noticed something that might be a broken screen? How hosed am I, and how much needs to be shelled out to be un-hosed? PS, after realizing I wouldn't be printing anything for a while, I went to clean off all my stuff outside. The resin alcohol mix fell onto a rug and my kids learned all the really bad words in english. Never again, black resin. Guest2553 fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Aug 29, 2021 |
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Aug 29, 2021 22:40
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Anyone Us ng ethanol or some alternative to IPA for cleaning resin prints? I'm going to be moving to the new wash+cure from elegoo soon and it's gonna cost a ton to rotate out ipa all the time. I've heard ethanol mentioned a bunch online (and it's recommended by a bunch of manufacturers), but I have no idea what the right move is. Printing with 3 machines pretty much 24/7 so want to have things nailed down
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Aug 29, 2021 23:36
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I've got my new Ender 3 setup and was trying the dog test print; came back a few hours later and found the filament that came with the printer (sans spool) had gotten tangled on itself and snapped. Is there a good way of rewinding it to prevent that, or should I just wait til I have an empty spool to put it on?
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Aug 30, 2021 00:21
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Toebone posted:I've got my new Ender 3 setup and was trying the dog test print; came back a few hours later and found the filament that came with the printer (sans spool) had gotten tangled on itself and snapped. Is there a good way of rewinding it to prevent that, or should I just wait til I have an empty spool to put it on? From my experience the easiest way to fix the filament that comes with Ender 3 is to pick it up carefully and place it in the trash.
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Aug 30, 2021 00:35
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So I got a Prusa Mini, got it set up, did some test prints that came out pretty decent, and have been making random toys for my kids this weekend. This is a lot of fun so far. How do I store the spool? I'm using esun PLA+, can I just leave it out and set up ready to go or do I need to stick the spool in a ziplock bag or something when it's not in use due to humidity?
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Aug 30, 2021 01:01
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How long are you going to leave it out? PLA doesn't care too much, so unless it's 6 months+, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Aug 30, 2021 01:05
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Probably not that long, but I assume it will last me a month or two? We will see. Thanks!
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Aug 30, 2021 01:10
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As long as the room it's in isn't particularly humid you can leave PLA out for months pretty safely. Other materials are a lot more hygroscopic and need more care in storage, but PLA is really forgiving. I say this as someone who has left his PLA out for months with no ill effects.
senrath fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 02:42
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