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mattfl posted:Just buy a Prusa should be in the printer recommendations Followed by an "Unless you hate yourself, in which case buy a Creality printer". 
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Jul 19, 2021 12:41
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Randalor posted:Once a resin model was been washed/rinsed off, is it safe to handle with your bare hands, or is it only safe to handle once it's been fully cured? Everything I see on a quick google says "Never touch resin with bare skin until it is fully cured and hardened" Here's Maker's Muse about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kHcsTG9QsM He says it multiple times in the video, but jump to the 9:00 mark and listen for a bit. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 13:42
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NewFatMike posted:Ooh maybe I'll use this space to plug the CAD thread and SOLIDWORKS as another CAD option: Some info on 3D Creator and 3d Sculptor may be of interest to the thread as well.
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Jul 19, 2021 14:31
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Rectovagitron posted:I just got my first printer this week, a Prusa MK3s+, after having played around with a MakerBot a decade ago. Formlabs has a really good one, but YMMV in FDM printing. https://formlabs.com/blog/designing-3d-printed-snap-fit-enclosures/
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Jul 19, 2021 16:59
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Deviant posted:. Fixed
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Jul 20, 2021 09:13
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:I'm more desperate to find B-PET or rPETG so I can print out of recycled plastic, but then again I'm an FDM guy If you're willing to pay extra for it: https://www.filamentive.com/product/recycled-petg-rpetg-1kg-transparent/ EDIT: Pretty much everything there is recycled filament.
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Jul 21, 2021 17:59
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Dominoes posted:
You should get some friends together and re-enact that scene from Office Space.
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Jul 22, 2021 10:56
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Looks like something I saw once at a Roehr Tool booth at a tradeshow. Here it is: http://roehrtool.com/dovetail-collapsible-core/ And here's an article about it in related searches on Google: https://www.moldmakingtechnology.com/articles/kenmold-presents-plastic-injection-molding-services-at-amerimold Also an odd article/paper someone wrote about it. https://1library.net/document/qo3j7p5q-modelling-and-analysis-of-collapsible-core.html
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Jul 23, 2021 20:39
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w00tmonger posted:Looking at moving, and part of that is going to be more of a dedicated 3d printer space. If I had about a grand Canad an to spend on a better FDM printer what should I be going for? Voron 2.4 conversion from the one you have?
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Jul 25, 2021 12:28
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Asking Printed Solid or any other vendor to "make right" bad prints from any filament just isn't where the hobby is yet. Especially if they aren't the manufacturer of the filament. Might as well buy Polaroid filament if you want that kind of filament support. https://www.polaroid3d.com/filament/ Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jul 30, 2021 |
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Jul 30, 2021 00:29
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Deviant posted:Printed Solid specifically manufactures Jessie pla in America and prides themselves on that fact. That's new, for as long as I've been in the hobby Printed Solid was "just another reseller". As for bad product out of the box, LOL if you think any filament manufacturer is perfect 100% of the time. You will encounter random bad spools. Anyway, Tom is a madman and really having too much fun with his Voron. https://youtu.be/8O9E9rcH6Us
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Jul 31, 2021 04:54
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Having some kind of dehumidifier setup for filament spools should probably be an expected cost like the gloves and wash station for resin printing.
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Aug 3, 2021 15:43
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Glue stick is not going to make a huge mess. It'll create a little extra work when you clean the bed, that's all. I was going to say. If the glue stick is making a huge mess you're applying too much.
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Aug 3, 2021 18:34
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When I'm printing with supports, I like to have a big fat 0.3mm first layer and then all subsequent layers be whatever my "real" desired layer height is, and then adjust my first layer spacing with the Live Adjust until I get good adhesion on the supports because yes, they are weird. There's also a setting somewhere that you have to toggle that will put a miniature skirt on the base of support lines so that they adhere to the bed better, maybe dig around for that in the Support settings?
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Aug 3, 2021 19:19
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Is the Photon S any good? They're on sale for $180 right now. https://www.anycubic.com/collections/special-offer/products/anycubic-photon-s?variant=30084941283388 EDIT: Click the white variant for the one that's in stock. You can also get the Wash and Cure 2.0 with it for a total of $308
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Aug 4, 2021 10:57
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How much hassle would it be to obtain and swap in a monochrome screen? Or is that 90% of the machine cost? The dual Z rail looks nice, but then again I'm not familiar with the various cheap SLA machines to know if there is a monochrome version out there made by someone else with a similar Z setup.
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Aug 4, 2021 13:49
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I'll probably give SLA printers another try after I finish some home projects. Gonna be dumping money in insulation and sealants for a building/shop in the back yard of the home I just closed on so I can turn it into a 3d printing/CNC workshop and keep the noise down so as not to bother the neighbors (mainly in the CNC mill/etc. stuff, the 3d printers are already super quiet).
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Aug 4, 2021 20:47
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SEKCobra posted:The gauge has too low a resolution I guess, my curves are like <5 cm in length. I can guarantee you those curves are something that can be measured with outside radius gauges.
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Aug 5, 2021 19:02
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One of those digitizing pens and judicious use of planes in Solidworks/whatever could probably also do the job, but the setup required to do that would be more expensive than the other measuring tools.
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Aug 5, 2021 19:36
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There's also something to be said for running searches on GrabCAD and other 3d model sites to see if the thing you want to make has already been made. But like, just search for the vehicle in question and see what has been made for it. Don't run a super specific search because if someone didn't use one of your key words it won't come up in the search.
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Aug 5, 2021 20:58
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Dr Sun Try posted:there was a micro version by the same creator There is this remix of it, but it's not by the same author. Are you sure this isn't what you're thinking of? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2972495
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Aug 9, 2021 13:05
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I mean, OP could throw all the Ender's bracketry in the garbage and 3d print new brackets and frankenstein himself a 3d printer out of the extrusions and electronics, but gently caress if I'd have the patience for it.
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Aug 10, 2021 21:08
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Combat Pretzel posted:What's that parameter that defines cornering speed? It's literally called "Jerk" and it helps define how the printer starts/stops as it reaches each destination point. If that value is set too high, the printer will rattle as it changes direction. In the previous thread, back when you had to configure these settings yourself on hobbyist machines, people found that setting this to a low value resulted in much smoother operation. Keep high Acceleration, but set Jerk to something like 7-10 to cut back on ghosting/etc. when making corners and other direction changes. EDIT: Apparently Marlin renamed it "Junction Deviation" because decades of CNC code documentation calling it "Jerk" offended them or something. So yeah, it's that. quote:Jerk vs. junction deviation Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Aug 13, 2021 |
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Aug 13, 2021 16:10
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withak posted:What is the rate of change of jerk called. Depending on context, "snap" or "jounce". Fifth derivative is "crackle" or "flounce" Sixth derivative is "pop" or "pounce" So first through sixth are: Velocity, Acceleration, Jerk, Snap, Crackle, Pop But good luck finding a 3d printer firmware that goes further than Jerk. I think even your most anal of industrial CNC machines don't go any further than Snap. EDIT: Here is way more information than you probably need to know about it: https://web.archive.org/web/2018062...klePop_docx.pdf Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Aug 13, 2021 |
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Aug 13, 2021 18:30
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smax posted:Ugh. My Prusa MK3S+ sat for about 3 months and is now giving me fits. I'm trying to print some fairly simple brackets and it's making me want to pull my hair out. The thing printed great the last time I used it, and is generally stock on the parts that matter, aside from a Nozzle X with a hot end sock. First thing to check is the filament. After that, I'd look hard at the rods/bearings and see if they were running dry and clean them/re-apply lubricant. Then I'd check the hotend to make sure it hadn't been knocked loose somehow.
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Aug 13, 2021 20:29
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I honestly never bothered with silent mode because normal mode is still significantly quieter than any previous printer I've owned (& crash detection/etc. is more important to me than silence).
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Aug 14, 2021 00:01
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Which one was the covid denier from the previous thread?
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Aug 14, 2021 22:37
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Deviant posted:which hairspray? i use got2b for cosplay already but that feels like overkill As noted: Aquanet Unscented Back when I first got started in 3d printing and glass beds were the primary hotness, Aquanet Unscented was the thing to use for PLA and PETG (presuming you put a thick layer on for PETG). Finicky stuff like ABS or Nylon or whatever still require a heated build chamber plus a glue/slurry on the glass that is basically ABS dissolved into some acetone. Some folks home-brew it, others buy already made stuff like Magigoo for ABS or whatever they call it now. Side note: Don't ever print PETG on a glass bed unless you have your ending Gcode keep the bed on about 50C for 20 minutes and then decrease by 5C increments every 5 minutes until you reach 25C and then turn off. If you let the bed cool completely all at once at whatever ambient temps are relative to print temps, the PETG can tear up chunks of glass as it contracts.
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Aug 16, 2021 10:50
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Acid Reflux posted:I always offer up this suggestion when hair spray chat happens, and you're welcome to take it or leave it, but - don't shoot it directly at the machine. Spray a paper towel until it's damp and then wipe that on the bed, or take the build plate off and do it away from things you wouldn't want to get a bunch of overspray on. For PLA especially, it doesn't take much at all to be effective. All you need is enough to lightly and evenly wet the surface. I often see people recommending multiple applications to build up layers, and in my experience that's just not necessary for PLA. Multiple/thicker coats are a good idea for PETG as bear mentioned though, just to make sure you've got a nice interference layer between the print and the glass. Also yeah, this. Don't be that kid that got himself into a "3d printers will set your home on fire" article by spraying carelessly directly at the machine.
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Aug 16, 2021 12:45
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Regarding Ender 3s and their clones (in a semi-rant in the latter half of the video). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Vai6NKxeG0 Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 18:43
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I've been in this hobby off-and-on since 2015 and if you aren't printing abrasives the nozzles really shouldn't have to change all that often (assuming you're starting with a quality nozzle to begin with and weren't given a piece of poo poo nozzle from the seller/stock).
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Aug 17, 2021 20:59
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SMDH at the lengths people will go to avoid paying $40 for a year's access to Solidworks via the EAA.org access path. Might want to hurry though. They're updating the language to be about the 3dExperience Maker's edition on EAA (though the links still point to the Student Premium download).
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Aug 18, 2021 10:37
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Serenade posted:Mean Green offline You can buy this by the gallon at any Home Depot or Lowes. Hell, I'm pretty sure I've seen this at bulk stores like Sam's and Costco.
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Aug 19, 2021 16:25
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insta posted:comedy option: use polysulfone for everything. poo poo rules For $150+/kg it better.
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Aug 20, 2021 13:54
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Pretty sure that's just your basic "ultra detail" profile in Prusa Slicer plus some time spent painting the boot after it printed.
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Aug 25, 2021 13:57
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Most of the prices I saw back when 3dhubs was still a thing worth looking at were "material cost x 20, then double it".
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Aug 30, 2021 19:09
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Sagebrush posted:what's wrong with just saying material cost x 40 I hadn't had my coffee yet when I posted that. And it was from memory of an explanation someone gave on 3d hubs about some breakdown of the price being material cost x 20 for actual material/supports/covering adhesion materials/etc. and labor dealing with removing and cleaning the part up/etc. and the doubling to cover electricity and some profit. w00tmonger posted:if you could get it working reliably This statement is doing a *lot* of heavy lifting. The treadmill printers are for a very niche type of printing and will not give you good results for a lot of printing the rest of us take for granted in more "traditional" FDM print orientations. Tom Sanladerer did a fairly detailed video about it when he reviewed the CR-30.
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Aug 31, 2021 12:49
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Is there a link to this shop? I have to see this.
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Sep 1, 2021 15:54
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I had a lot of good luck early-on with my Monoprice Mini Select a few years ago, but I was using a different slicer software than the one that came with it (Simplify3D, back when that software was good for something, as it came with the first printer I bought). Honestly, if you get either of the Original Prusa machines (Mini+ or MK3S+) you will have an amazing time. The printers you're used to are about six years out of date on design/firmware/etc. Also I've got to ask, did you read this post? It would tell you what you need to know about the pros/cons of the various machines that are semi-modern for the hobbyist. EDIT: As a point of reference, I have a Prusa Mini+ and it's just a beast for reliability and ease of use. I keep saying I'm going to get an MK3S+ but I haven't really had the need to yet. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Sep 1, 2021 |
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Sep 1, 2021 18:42
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 21:52 |
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Sagebrush posted:What sort of temperature regulation problems are you having with your Monoprice? Every printer should be able to hold consistent, even nozzle and bed temperatures these days. If that isn't working, something is wrong with the machine. The electronics on those old Monoprice designs were only good for about 2,000 hours of use before they started to die (if everything was perfect, if it wasn't perfect they died a lot sooner). It's the old hardware supplier quality problem. The saving grace on those machines back when they were popular with hobbyists was that Monoprice's Warranty meant you could exchange the machine as often as that happened until one year from the purchase date. (I went through four Monoprice Make Select V2s that way with no extra out of pocket on my end because shipping and return shipping were free under the warranty) Some folks modded those machines, but I left them stock because gently caress it, why not get a new, free printer every few months for the same $250 original price with free shipping (when they were on sale)? I'm sure there are more hoops to jump through now on the warranty, but for a brief time it was a gravy train with biscuit wheels for folks in the hobby that didn't live far from a Monoprice warehouse.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:24
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