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Isn't the whole idea of vase mode that it only prints one wall? Increasing nozzle size would get you a thicker single wall but not speed anything up. Increasing layer height would speed things up via fewer layers, and increasing speed would obviously speed things up. At some point you'll start to outrun your extruder though.
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Jul 26, 2021 03:07
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Hadlock posted:In theory, i'm assuming at least, moving layer thickness from 0.20 to 0.40 ought to roughly halve print time? Vase mode only prints one perimeter wall. So if your nozzle is 1mm then you probably will have the most luck with a 1mm wall thickness or maybe a little bit more. Anything less than that and the slicer is going to try to do it by maybe extruding less plastic. Anything more and the slicer is going to push too much plastic and rely on it squishing outwards. If you're going for added strength, then that squish is in your favor.
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Jul 26, 2021 11:14
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Ghostnuke posted:how does this work? the melting temp of lead is higher than that of PLA I'm assuming they meant that they epoxied lead shot into the keel.
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Jul 26, 2021 16:42
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SEKCobra posted:I have looked at that, but they are way too inprecise and large. You take the contour with the gauge, take a top down photo of it on graph paper of a known grid size, import that image into your software of choice, and draw a curve along the photo contour.
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Aug 5, 2021 18:05
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SEKCobra posted:The gauge has too low a resolution I guess, my curves are like <5 cm in length. They make smaller ones where the pins are steel wires, maybe that would work?
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Aug 5, 2021 19:00
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From a physics perspective, jerk is the rate of change of acceleration.
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Aug 13, 2021 16:27
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Toebone posted:I've got my new Ender 3 setup and was trying the dog test print; came back a few hours later and found the filament that came with the printer (sans spool) had gotten tangled on itself and snapped. Is there a good way of rewinding it to prevent that, or should I just wait til I have an empty spool to put it on? From my experience the easiest way to fix the filament that comes with Ender 3 is to pick it up carefully and place it in the trash.
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Aug 30, 2021 00:35
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Any ender 3 owners have the stock hotend fail on them by claiming to be at temp but actually being low? I had a clog I couldn't resolve via cold pull, so I swapped the nozzle and the printer still is failing to extrude Hatchbox PLA at 200C. I tried two different rolls, and checked that the extruder is working fine. If I bump the nozzle temp up to 240 it prints, so I'm thinking maybe the thermistor is going bad? I don't have a good way to double check the temp. I have an all-metal hotend I just hadn't gotten around to installing yet, so I can install that. I'd just like to have some idea what this failure mode is.
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Sep 9, 2021 23:46
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Yeah I should own one of those anyway. I'll get one and check what it reads. If I swap in the all-metal hotend it has its own wiring, so I'll be tearing that all out if it comes to it.
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Sep 10, 2021 00:11
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RabbitWizard posted:This may not be it, but quite easy to check: Are you sure the temp is really too low? I had something like that when my PTFE tube got too hot and damaged when I played around with a cleaning filament. It got a bit swollen and hindered filament passing with my regular temps but worked with higher ones. After I cut off the bad piece it worked fine again. I can't say for sure, but maybe the higher temp made the tube softer and allowed filament to pass more easy? The damage wasn't really visible on first sight as the walls of the tube only got slightly bigger. May be worth checking out. I also replaced the capricorn tubing with a new piece when I swapped the nozzle, so that's not it either. It's a weird failure but the only thing I have to go on is that it prints of I set the temp high. I'd assume I was using the wrong filament or something, but I opened a new roll of grey Hatchbox PLA which is what I typically print with and it behaves the same as the black I had in when it first clogged up.
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Sep 10, 2021 00:56
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Okay Amazon got me that IR thermometer over night. With the hot end at 185C, the highest reading the gun gave was 140, and with it at 240C the highest was a momentary blip at 200 but mostly it read around 180. Do your hot ends read closer to the target than that? I can extrude PLA with it set to 240, which if it's actually somewhere between 180 and 200 makes sense. Ditto to it not extruding set to 200 if it's actually more like 160. Either way at this point I'm going to install the all metal hot end, but I want to be reasonably confident in my diagnostics just for future reference.
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Sep 10, 2021 15:50
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BMan posted:do note that if your hotend is still new and shiny, the IR thermometer is probably inaccurate Nah the printer is several years old
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Sep 10, 2021 17:23
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Javid posted:Took a couple days but I caught this in action; the filament was getting stuck in the little groove on the aftermarket extruder. Not sure if the filament is less dimensionally stable along the length, or just has a grippier surface on it, but I was able to print a little thing to guide the filament which has eliminated the filament jamming issues, yeehaw That groove was almost certainly worn into the extruder by wear over time, since the filament curls in from above. All-metal extruders will mitigate that to a large extent. Mine also has a little segment of bowden tubing at the filament inlet, so that if anything wears it's the tube which is easy to replace.
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Sep 30, 2021 00:06
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Javid posted:That IS a metal extruder and that groove was there the day it arrived That's dumb. I mean I believe you, but that's dumb.
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Sep 30, 2021 01:18
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It's just weird because that's specifically a failure mode for plastic extruders. Like, the tension arm breaks and the filament wears a groove that results in binding. Those are the two things that go wrong. I can't imagine why they would purposely put a groove there!
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Sep 30, 2021 01:26
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This is the one I have - https://macewen3d.com/products/mk8-extruder-aluminum-drive-feed-for-cr-10-cr-10-s4-and-cr-10-s5 (With the stainless steel drive gear)
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Sep 30, 2021 02:16
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That extrusion video looks okay to me. That bit of curl shouldn't be causing the filament not to stick.
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Oct 2, 2021 15:06
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Cura has a million settings you can turn on, but you have to enable them in the preferences somewhere. Once you've done that you should be able to individually enable the purge line, brim, and skirt.
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Oct 11, 2021 03:30
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Yeah, you aren't going to get perfectly transparent anything with FDM when you're printing curved surfaces because of the light refraction in the layer lines. Folks have trouble even when printing mostly-vertical/straight vase objects doing that. Maybe playing with the minimum layer time setting (increasing it) would help if that's the issue.
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Nov 12, 2021 16:10
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biracial bear for uncut posted:When I hosed around with trying to get clear PETG prints back in 2016-or-so, it helped to do that but when something has a dome shape like that the very tip/last few layers would start to drag around with the nozzle if layer time was too high (remember that the nozzle is still imparting heat to the filament while the distance between trace paths decreases). The other thing people mention sometimes is printing a second or third object spaced at a good distance on the print bed, kinda serves a similar purpose.
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Nov 12, 2021 16:22
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mewse posted:There's the big obvious one that is usually safe to assume when cause of death isn't mentioned, but I do hope that's not what happened, he was always so kind when doing interviews for youtube There are two I'm aware of that fall under this category - suicide and overdose. There could be more, but from personal experience with friends I've lost over the years, those are the two that typically aren't mentioned.
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Dec 1, 2021 22:01
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Ghostnuke posted:anyone have any ideas why my ironing is all hosed up? Are you printing at 100% infill? That looks like over extrusion as said, but at 100% infill it will get progressively worse. If so, try 90% infill, or even less. You basically never need 100%
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Jan 23, 2022 23:44
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I was under the impression that with most infill patterns you get severely diminishing returns with much more than 20-30ish% density, and that most applications are happy with as little as 5-10%; am I off-base there? By my understanding you're right, but some people still feel compelled to use super high numbers anyway. Mostly with 100 there's nowhere for over extrusion to hide, so backing off can resolve some issues.
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Jan 23, 2022 23:59
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Ghostnuke posted:It was probably this. I'll bet a wad of overextrusion got stuck in the nozzle and got crusty It's not caused by a wad in or on the nozzle - Imagine that you are over extruding just a tiny little bit. One the first layer you won't even notice, but layer after layer it starts to add up because the over extrusion from the layer before is now pushing up into the next layer, which then pushes up even more into the next layer, and so on. If you cut the infill even to like 95%, it gives that over extrusion somewhere to go other than up and out.
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Jan 24, 2022 01:23
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The Eyes Have It posted:FYI there's also a tabletop gaming 3d printing thread you might want to check out if you don't already know. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573&pagenumber=1 for the lazy
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Jan 27, 2022 19:45
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crime fighting hog posted:I got another dumb question as I'm waiting for my Ender 3 to get here: The PLA filament that came with my ender was utter trash.
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Feb 1, 2022 04:38
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MJP posted:Anyone have recs for sanding printed objects other than a piece of sandpaper? I'd kill for some kind of 400 grit flexible puff that you can put on a power drill at low speed in order to smooth out a part. My Dremel and some abrasive pads do a pretty good job at small scale but are no good for larger pieces or areas. I use "radial bristle discs" and some similar things on a flex-shaft tool for silver jewelry polishing. I've never thought to use them for 3d printed stuff, but they might serve your purposes if you can find ones with the grit you need. Edit: Oh I see you want bigger options. You can maybe use an aggressive polishing compound on a cloth polishing wheel.
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Feb 7, 2022 20:23
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MJP posted:Just be careful with those, they're flat and stiff - they won't conform to curves. Also IIRC most of the pads for oscillating multitools, pad sanders, orbital sanders, etc. are somewhat coarse. 180 grit flap sander wheels at low speed in my regular power drill have been as gritty as I felt safe on a rounded part, and even then the flap wheel was fairly stiff. I have some radial bristle discs that are pretty soft and conform well to curves. There's a million flavors of these things out there.
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Feb 7, 2022 20:25
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MJP posted:These? https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/?N=5002385+3292908964&rt=rud They make 3" options, which might be perfect for my needs. Yup, although I have a different brand of them. You can use one disc or make a stack of them to get a thicker wheel. I'm really not sure which ones you would need to use for different plastics though, I've only ever used them on sterling silver.
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Feb 7, 2022 20:28
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D-Pad posted:You can probably find an extra large sanding drum for a Dremel and if that isn't big enough I know you can get big rear end ones that attach to a drill. The other thing I mention would be something like this https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Buffing-Wheel-12U107 which you use with a plastic polishing compound like https://www.eastwood.com/plastic-buffing-compound.html. I use these with jewelers rogue for polishing silver and it works great.
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Feb 7, 2022 20:34
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MJP posted:I actually have what I think is one of these, meant for aluminum polishing. I have a dumbass question, though - how do I actually get the compound on the wheel? Do I just like spin it at high speed and rub it onto the compound stick? Yep, the compound is generally embedded in a waxy block, and you rub that against the wheel while it's spinning so the wheel picks up some compound. You periodically re-apply it as needed. Be careful with these though because the wheel can grab whatever it is you are polishing and pull it out of your hands. The bristle discs I have are these ones https://www.riogrande.com/product/dedeco-sunburst-7-8-radial-disc-kit/326024
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Feb 7, 2022 21:00
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Ghostnuke posted:Is there a way to reverse engineer your slicer settings from a .gcode file? I know the file is literally a bunch of settings, but I mean a clean way without having to know the actual code. "Now I'm feelin' so fly like a G 6, Like a G 6, like a G 6" (parabolic interpolation)
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Feb 16, 2022 17:33
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bird food bathtub posted:How likely is it that this stock flexible magnetic sheet thingy on an out-of-the-box Ender 3 is warped vs me being a dumbass on this leveling process? Print head keeps making contact as I move between the corners no matter what pattern of the four corners I attempt. I can get individual corners good, and usually any two adjacent corners working between each other, but never all four corners and the bed between them. My stock ender 3 bed had a very slight dish shape to it. When the corners were all leveled, the center of the bed was the tiniest bit too low. I put a small square of aluminum foil centered on the bed under the magnet, and another smaller square centered on top of that, and it's been great ever since.
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Feb 28, 2022 18:42
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Vaporware posted:If you have a sheet of plate / float glass bigger than the bed you can check the level of the plate. It's the flattest thing you can get your hands on at home. Marble countertop should be pretty flat too
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Feb 28, 2022 19:49
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Will a neptune 3 pro do abs out of the box (with some form of DIY enclosure)?
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Feb 27, 2023 18:01
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Is there a free option out there these days for extremely basic modeling? I have an .svg I need to extrude so I can print it to use as a spray paint template.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:32
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NewFatMike posted:Use Inkscape to convert that SVG to a DXF, import it into OnShape or Fusion 360, and extrude. Thanks, I'll grab OnShape and give this a go later today. I had free Fusion 360 set up a while back but seem to have lost it, and I remember them loving with the free licensing option as well. Edit: If I bounce off OnShape I'll try Blender. I'm confident I can figure out the steps, it's mostly just a question of what's free and supports this simple use case.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:41
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Folks with filament driers, is there a point of no return for filament? I have a roll of PLA that's just been sitting for 2 years for example, and it brittle as hell. I have a filament drier but I just got it recently and haven't used it yet. Is it even worth me trying to dry this PLA to see if it bounces back?
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Mar 22, 2023 00:20
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Well, it's in there. I'll report back later tonight or tomorrow morning.
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Mar 22, 2023 01:40
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armorer posted:Folks with filament driers, is there a point of no return for filament? I have a roll of PLA that's just been sitting for 2 years for example, and it brittle as hell. I have a filament drier but I just got it recently and haven't used it yet. Is it even worth me trying to dry this PLA to see if it bounces back? 6 hours in the filament drier at 50C made it notably less brittle, although it still not as pliable as a new roll. I'm going to leave it overnight and see if it improves any more.
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Mar 22, 2023 05:55
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