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insta posted:it hauls rear end on any print you can fit into the build plate, and heats quickly Well, it's the same for any decent CoreXY printer.
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Jul 24, 2021 21:18
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Nerobro posted:Is it? A big printer takes more time to heat soak. Uses more power to maintain temp. "acutal print speed" might be the same, but startup is a thing. 700w A/C bed. Start-up is really not an issue. It's also not the small prints you really want the extra speed on. It's on the big prints.
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Jul 24, 2021 22:02
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https://www.3dprintersbay.com/vivedino/vivedino-troodon This says it's using an Orbiter v1.5, which is an excellent extruder. It has a few issues with the interior filament guide getting worn down, but it's a cheap and easy replacement and should be fixed in v2. (I have the v1, which has a metal guide). Get the Dragon hotend (or better).
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Jul 26, 2021 20:37
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Did you redo your hotend PIDs? (That is a thing on Prusa's, right?)
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Jul 26, 2021 21:28
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Roll Fizzlebeef posted:
No, even with PA-CF this will struggle to work. Printing it lengthwise might work, if you epoxy it back together. Bolts, you'll still get movement when swinging the bat and it'll feel like a wet noodle.
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Jul 27, 2021 21:39
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Roll Fizzlebeef posted:Yes, that was what I meant. I figured I would expoxy the halves together and also use bolts. I would still epoxy the handle into the bat as originally intended. You're still very likely to get a break at the instep. I mean, you can try it, but I suspect it'll fail in short order.
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Jul 27, 2021 22:47
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Glue stick is not going to make a huge mess. It'll create a little extra work when you clean the bed, that's all.
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Aug 3, 2021 17:52
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Dominoes posted:Your Prusa is your tool (STS), and you're buying a toy. lol
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Aug 11, 2021 17:54
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Hamburlgar posted:Never mind my previous thoughts about getting different kinds of printers... So, with a CoreXY, you could probably more than double your print speed. With that volume of prints, wouldn't that be worthwhile?
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Aug 13, 2021 06:05
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What on earth are you guys doing to your BLtouch? Easily one of the better QoL upgrades you can do and in my experience more reliable than IR or force sensors.
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Aug 16, 2021 17:53
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Javid posted:I have some gcode I got from thingiverse that will move the nozzle clockwise between the four screw points a few times so I can wiggle a receipt around under it. This will get me close ENOUGH that I can start a print and dial it exactly in by watching the lines of the brim much faster than doing a zillion reps with the paper. All this becomes irrelevant with a BLtouch. I really don't understand this threads reluctance to use it. One of the weaknesses of the BLVCube design is that the bed *can* slip when you turn the printer off, so that it can be off level when you turn it on again...but I only bother to relevel if it's visually out of alignment or I have big/"important" print. Rest of the time the BLtouch/Reprap will take of it, even if it's several millimeters out.
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Aug 16, 2021 22:22
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becoming posted:Ender 3 sisters and bros - In sorting out a clogged nozzle on my E3v2, it occurred to me that I don't have any spares for it. I'd like to rectify that. Where are you buying your nozzles? I've read good things about TriangleLab's nozzles, but they appear to offer very limited quantities for purchase. If I'm going to wait a month for these to show up, I'd like to get a dozen and only ever have to wait that month once. If there's a particularly good product available from a US-based reseller and shipping won't be four weeks, I'm happy to deal in smaller quantities. Are TH3D's nozzles reliable quality? Any others I should look at? Not an Ender Bro, but buy a E3D NozzleX and forget about wear and most clogs.
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Aug 18, 2021 00:11
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How long are you going to leave it out? PLA doesn't care too much, so unless it's 6 months+, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Aug 30, 2021 01:05
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Chainclaw posted:Yeah, that post was one of the things pointing me toward the Prusa. It's really not needed for most of the stuff people are printing. I mean, it's taking me over a year to finish my enclosure project (still ongoing), as while it's handy when printing ABS/ASA, etc you can get around it with draft shields.
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Sep 1, 2021 19:08
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Bucnasti posted:This right here is the real meat for me. If it would cost $650 to upgrade an Ender to match a Prusa, then I think the Prusa is just a better choice for my needs, when I finally get around to buying an FDM printer. For an additional $650 you can turn an Ender into a much better printer than the Prusa: Duet 2 wifi clone $100 Orbiter 1.5 Extruder $50 Copperhead hotend. $150 Springs/buildsheets. $100? Rail Upgrade $150? Edit: forgot: BLtouch: $40 for non-clone. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Sep 4, 2021 |
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Sep 4, 2021 07:57
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w00tmonger posted:What's involved to print in wood/glow in the dark? E3D NozzleX. Yeah it's expensive, yes it's worth it.
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Sep 7, 2021 03:58
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cakesmith handyman posted:That's a poor connection with high resistance which is causing local hearing. I don't care what temp the cable and connector are rated for, that's a failure occuring while you watch. 168°c Christ that's a fire hazard turn it off Probably a cheap clone XT60. Silicone cables can withstand at least 200C, so it's unlikely to blow up, but you should fix that.
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Sep 8, 2021 08:43
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Chainclaw posted:It seemed pretty good. The instructions for steps like that were pretty vague at what you are going for, but I think I got them correct. I think he's hinting at the horizontal pattern on your prints that looks like belts are too tight.
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Sep 9, 2021 17:57
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0.05 for a press fit, 0.1 for regular. ABS/ASA I may have to go to 0.15 as it can contract a bit more.
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Sep 12, 2021 08:46
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InternetJunky posted:I appreciate this post, but all of this sounds like poison to me. If you buy a $129 table saw, it'll most likely be unable to be trued square and the blade will threaten to jump off and cut your head off.
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Sep 13, 2021 23:41
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SEKCobra posted:I kinda want Prusa to release a Core XY model at a similar pricepoint to the MK3. But I also hope they don't, so I don't get any funny ideas about spending money. Given the price for the MK3, a CoreXY would be closer to $2k. Quality linear rails aren't cheap.
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Sep 14, 2021 06:21
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Chainclaw posted:I haven’t set octoprint up with this printer yet, but I’ve used it in the past. It’s really handy for mostly the remote camera feed. No way am I ever going to back to transferring files on an SD card. One click in the Prusaslicer sends it straight to the printer (Duet2 Wifi).
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Sep 14, 2021 07:35
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At which point, he might as well just make a plaster/sand mold instead.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:25
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Erhh, ok. I thought we were talking about making molds.
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Sep 16, 2021 19:38
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Print the feet separately and glue them on.
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Sep 16, 2021 21:58
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I'm tempted to jump into the resin pool and are now looking at a Anycubic mono SE....or is it worth waiting for the Mars 3 to become more widely available?
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Sep 19, 2021 06:17
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Doctor Zero posted:It depends on what you want it for. I have an idea for minis/small sculptures. It wont make me rich, but it should pay for itself. (And I've been looking for an excuse to get a resin printer). I wont really have spare time until Nov/Dec, so I guess I might wait for the Mars 3?. I can build a vented cabinet. Not too worried about dealing with fumes, etc.
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Sep 19, 2021 18:10
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Hadlock posted:I need to cast a lead ballast for my 3d printed project Print the plug as an empty shell, but fill it with supports. Make the plaster mold, remove the supports, pour in lead. Alternative is to model the plug with a few cross sections that you can easily remove.(or just pout lead over). Hydrocal is a good alternative to regular plaster if you want to make stronger/easier-to-use molds. (And quite easy to make 2-part molds from as well)
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Sep 24, 2021 19:12
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Depends on what you are printing and your extruder setup. In general: faster/longer retraction + possibly lower temps/better cooling. On any modern direct drive setup, you shouldn't have to deal with stringing...even when printing PETG.
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Sep 25, 2021 04:17
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mobby_6kl posted:Anyway. I have a project in mind that would need some serious mechanical properties. Has anyone used glass or carbon fiber nylon? Obviously I'd need to get an FDM printer, but is it a huge pain in the rear end to deal with? I have. They can be tricky. Also bear in mind that while they will be extremely impact resistant, they will deform, if under constant load. Nylon is fairly bendy and the tiny carbon filaments will only do so much.
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Sep 27, 2021 17:58
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No, that's not normal at all.
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Sep 28, 2021 18:25
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Anyone here with the Photon Mono SE? I think I've narrowed that down to be my (resin) printer of choice.
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Sep 28, 2021 18:59
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Sagebrush posted:I have the regular Photon Mono and it's excellent. I've had literally one failed print since I got it about a year ago. I assume the SE is even better. Cool. What slicers do you use? Is the Photon Workshop thing worth using ?
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Sep 28, 2021 20:57
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Bowden or DD?
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Sep 30, 2021 20:13
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Chainclaw posted:Prusa I3 MK3S+, so it's direct drive Hmm, sure you aren't over extruding? parts cooling fan is on? You shouldn't get any stringing at all.
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Sep 30, 2021 22:16
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Chainclaw posted:Fan is on and working, I hear it and the self test confirmed it. How can I check if I'm over-extruding, and how would I resolve that? https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration_2257/ Something like this.
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Sep 30, 2021 22:28
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https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-resin/products/polyjuice-water-washable-resin-grey?variant=30877785096277 Has anyone tried water washable resin? Is water washing only really viable?
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Sep 30, 2021 23:09
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InternetJunky posted:Any hollow pieces had to be dried out with compressed air asap since water would just eat through and crack the pieces. Overall it was just a more frustrating experience all in the name of avoiding IPA. Ok, more or less what I figured. I'm basically (slowly) planning out my workspace and what to buy and using an ultrasonic cleaner (for water washable) just seemed neater than the largish wash stations. I'll probably DIY the curing station (turn table and some UV LEDs) and may take a similar approach with the washing station.
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Oct 1, 2021 00:02
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Nurse!! Meltdown in aisle 3!
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Oct 2, 2021 20:17
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 00:43 |
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Am I missing something here? You bought an open box item, which turned out to be not just an open box, but a previous assembled, used and disassembled printer. Instead of going on about a crusade about how terrible Enders are, how about just returning it?.
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Oct 2, 2021 21:32
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