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w00tmonger posted:If anyone in Canada is desperate to find resin. Eryone resin has been pretty solid and available. I had to switch to Eryone last month because Siraya's Canadian stock ran out. I bought all the Eryone grey available, and now I'm printing in a vivid peach colour because that's all they had left. Way more brittle than the abs stuff from Siraya of course, but this is some great resin. The details are super crisp and the cost is 50% of what I was paying Siraya. I might not go back to Siraya.
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Jul 21, 2021 18:46
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w00tmonger posted:Out of curiosity, you still rocking vroom? I've had some support failures with my black, and seeing some layerlines artifacts occasionally. (Mixing 10% tenacious) I'm also looking forward to Vulcan. I'm tempted to just place an order for 50L now rather than go through the whole trial phase.
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Jul 21, 2021 21:10
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I'd like to talk about nitrile gloves for resin/print handling since as an alternative I'm actually using super cheopo sandwich gloves similar to what the workers at Subway would use (https://www.amazon.ca/Ronco-Deli-Medium-Disposable-Gloves/dp/B00QEGN8TE/ref=sr_1_10). Most of the time the glove is on for about 10 seconds total (take off flex plate, scrape off prints, put plate back on) and using a nitrile glove for that becomes kind of expensive if you print a lot. They are also great when taking the vats off the machine, since I can take the vat off with one set of gloves and then quickly put on clean gloves and not risk accidentally transferring uncured resin from the gloves underneath the vat. That being said, for all I know maybe resin can leech through the plastic instantly and I've been slowly poisoning myself for months.
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Jul 22, 2021 14:15
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Ambrose Burnside posted:yes, resin actually does penetrate the thin porous material gloves are made from. 15 minutes is the max glove contact time you should have to chemicals like this. you’re not poisoning yourself but you’re absolutely priming yourself to develop a sudden severe and irreversible sensitivity to the resins that (iirc) you pay the bills working with. people who work with resins and epoxies for a lifetime have an almost 50% chance of this happening at some point, the more contact you have the faster it happens, and it generally forces people to change jobs/careers.
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Jul 22, 2021 18:19
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Does anyone in Canada have a source for a replacement screen for a Mars2 Pro? Strangely enough I'm not having much luck finding one. I'm down one machine as of a few minutes ago. 
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Jul 25, 2021 01:44
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Aside from the Vulcan resin that was recently started via Kickstarter are there any other resin brands that are made local to North America? Finding a consistent source of bulk resin has started to become a real problem. I just had to buy a pile of very blue resin because it's the only one I could get in bulk to Canada right now.
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Jul 26, 2021 14:48
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Randalor posted:Short term goal was to make custom bits for minis, the one I have in mind for my first project I'm pretty sure would ultimately just be spheres, cylinders, rectangles and cones (converting an Imperial Knight Armiger into an Epic40k-style Hell Strider specifically). I'll look into people's recommendations this weekend, I'm just too busy at work this week to fiddle with the programs until then. There's a pretty big difference between 3D programs designed for CAD work and 3D programs designed for digital sculpting. Based on your mini comment I would imagine you're leaning more into the digital sculpting direction and as such would highly recommend blender. It's free, but there's a significant learning curve to it (which is going to be there for any digital sculpting program).
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Jul 27, 2021 15:40
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I saved one of my resin printers yesterday with a plastic razorblade to scrape off a light layer of cured resin on my LCD. I thought I'd mention it here because I hadn't heard of a plastic razorblade until recently and it made a huge difference in getting the resin off.
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Jul 30, 2021 18:06
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Combat Pretzel posted:It would be nice to have one for higher precision mechanical parts like RC gearboxes and diffs and poo poo like that. Assuming you can get resin with ABS, PC or Nylon like properties. Then again, if you could, I'd probably be printing a lot more things with SLA. You can get resins like that though... Zodack posted:I've just installed a Sovol flex plate on my mars 2 pro, added a spacer and re-homed, re-leveled my build plate and gone to do my first print.
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Jul 31, 2021 21:48
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Zodack posted:Awkwardly the FEP on my empty tank now was blackish sediment on it from the scrapes, but it was a spare, so I can worry about that later. quote:The fully parallel part was an absolute. What's the order on that - home, tighten front bolt, test paper friction, move plate up, tighten side bolt? Seems like that did it for me and didn't mess the plate up too much in the process.
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Jul 31, 2021 21:59
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New Vulcan resin report: I got my sample of the new Vulcan resin from Atlas recently. I knew it needed a bit longer cure times from early reports so I started at 3 second exposure for 30 micron layer heights and kept upping the exposure by .2 until I got a working print. I use really thin supports and Vulcan doesn't seem to do so well with them at all. I finally started getting full prints at 3.8 and after a small failure I'm now at 3.9 sec exposure and error free so far. The colour is really nice for minis and the detail level is definitely fantastic. From other reports it sounds like I have way higher exposure times than normal but I don't see an impact on the print and I'm getting none of the usual signs of overexposure.
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Aug 2, 2021 23:54
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Are they touting better print quality as a selling point or something? The main benefits to me is that it's made in the US so hopefully consistent supply is possible, it doesn't come in a bottle, and it'll be cheaper than most other resin brands. It's not an abs-like resin and still fairly brittle, but the detail level is really really good in what I've printed so far.
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Aug 3, 2021 01:05
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w00tmonger posted:Yeah the north american supply chain thing is huge. worst case with brittleness will be adding a little bit of flexible resin which is what I'm doing with everything else anyways How do you mix your resins and not make a gigantic mess?
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Aug 3, 2021 16:45
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Doctor Zero posted:Just pour some into the vat and stir it with a silicone spatula. If you want to be precise, you could pour a measured amount of bth colors into an empty resin bottle.
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Aug 3, 2021 17:31
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Is the Photon S any good? They're on sale for $180 right now. Just get a VOXELAB Proxima 6 instead if budget is your primary concern. Even cheaper than $180, but monochrome and capable of the same quality as a Mars2 Pro or Mono SE. I printed on one for months and was completely happy with it.
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Aug 4, 2021 14:50
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I just had my first experience with bad resin (I think). Multiple failures on one machine that looked like resin-on-screen type of problem where some of the print is on the plate and the rest is in the vat. Then all of a sudden a second machine of mine got the exact same issue. The expiry date on the bottle is next week, so maybe that's it? Very frustrating problem since the failures really didn't make any sense.
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Aug 5, 2021 23:07
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w00tmonger posted:Eryone? I just noticed the same issue with dates Yeah, I'm not too thrilled that I just bought 20L more. I shook the absolute crap out of the last bottle and stuff is printing on the machine again so I think that all but confirms it was the resin.
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Aug 6, 2021 03:11
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I don't want to derail this thread too much with business talk but if you're selling miniatures and terrain pieces and pricing by material costs and printing time I think you're making a huge mistake. There is a big difference between a product-based business and a service-based business and you're leaving a ton of money on the table if you're a product-based business that sells itself as a service business.
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Aug 30, 2021 19:36
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Doctor Zero posted:Interesting. I don’t think I disagree, but could you explain more how a product based approach would generate more money? I think the people who print stuff for people and businesses who have already designed something do fit into the service business category. I know that lots of other mini sellers have spreadsheets where they track resin amount, cleanup time, etc for each miniature and use that in their pricing. They are completely ignoring their product -- it could be a highly detailed and dynamic model that could easily sell for $15 a pop but because of their formulas they list it for $5 and never realise the money they're losing. Just as a simple example, I sell the Godzilla model from Lord of the Print for $200 full size because it's Godzilla. A different miniature that uses similar amounts of materials and time I might sell for $80. If I just used time and materials as my cost basis like so many other sellers I'd be losing out on more than $100 from a single model. I don't know if that makes sense -- I'm finding it weirdly difficult to explain. It would be different if they came to you with an STL and asked you to print the piece, in which case you're acting as a printing service and nothing else.
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Aug 30, 2021 23:44
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w00tmonger posted:Couldn't even imagine shipping a model with full supports. The amount of bullshit I'd get from people for their hosed up models would be bottomless How is a shop like that even in operation? I get a 1/5 rating because the miniature is done with blue resin and my render shows a grey model. I can't imagine sending out uncured stuff still on supports!
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Sep 1, 2021 01:55
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Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the thread consensus on screen protectors? How many people actually use em? I never have, partially from laziness but also partially b/c they increase bleed by a non-negligible amount (or so i've heard), but then again i've also never torn a FEP sheet or even had to replace a sheet yet; according to my .ctb working file archive, this ingot mold i'm running now will be my 107th print without issue, which does not seem typical After losing my mono X screen to a FEP tear I use a protector on that machine, but I don't bother on any of my smaller machines. I have two machines down right now waiting replacement screens because of this, so maybe I need to rethink this approach. That protector on my mono X has saved me once already fyi.
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Sep 2, 2021 14:11
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I don't have a link handy but most people recommend the type of screen protector that has a matte, no-fingerprints kind of finish. And if you do get air bubbles after applying, and can't get them all pushed out, don't fret; the pressure from the build plate pushing down during printing makes sure they won't be a major issue anyways. At least, that's been my experience. I have ridiculous amounts of air bubbles under my mono X screen protector and it prints beautifully so definitely don't worry about them. Just be aware that if uncured resin does spill around your screen protector edge it will wick itself under there and make a royal mess (in terms of cleanup, but at least your screen is ok).
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Sep 3, 2021 14:47
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Serenade posted:I want to combine pairs 3d models, what is the easiest way to repeatably do that? Ambrose Burnside posted:Where should I be spending my money if I want a wash n cure unit? My DIY setup is pretty ragged at this point and I think I'd rather upgrade than rebuild it. I'd also prefer something smaller rather than larger because table space is at a premium, as long as it can accommodate a Mars Pro build plate and/or flexplate plus attached prints. w00tmonger posted:I'm still trying to sort out what the way to do alcohol is. Currently wondering if going to a medical supplier or some chemical place would work. Once my pickle bucket has become more goop than liquid I clean it out and move the wash and cure IPA into that and a fresh batch of IPA into the wash and cure. With the huge amounts I print I find this only needs to be swapped out once a week (that's with 4 printers going pretty much 2-3 times a day everyday). $12/week for hundreds of prints is a pretty small expense imo. The bucket cleaning is a huge pain in the rear end though but I think that's a problem no matter what you end up doing.
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Sep 11, 2021 14:38
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The jupiter kickstarter is live right now.
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Sep 11, 2021 15:14
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w00tmonger posted:I still can't decide if a LARGE format printer like this is useful. Feels like a massive liability to fix over just running a few Saturn's. Paradoxish posted:I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but there's no particular reason to choose one resin printer over another aside from resolution and bed size, right? Are there any known dogs out there right now?
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Sep 12, 2021 04:41
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I just added a Elegoo Saturn to my lineup. Is there anyone out there that has a Saturn and a Mars2 Pro? Do you use the same settings on both? My Mono X died a horrible death yesterday so I'm kind of desperate to get printing again as fast as possible without having to do a day of exposure tests.withak posted:Conventional wisdom is that the additional price of the Prusa is about what you would pay in necessary upgrades and the time spent tweaking and fine-tuning a cheaper printer to get similar results as the Prusa OOTB. Always possible to get lucky with a cheaper printer tho, and for some people tinkering with the machine is half the fun. I've tried twice now to get into FDM printing but I absolutely hate the "tinkering" aspect of these printers. I want a tool I can use, not something that is a project in and of itself. Based on your comment I'm kind of hopeful -- is the Prusa going to fulfill what I'm looking for?
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Sep 13, 2021 22:11
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Hamburlgar posted:It really isn’t as hard/time consuming getting an Ender 3 to print properly and consistently as people are making out to be. My first entry into FDM was with a CR-10 that nearly burned my house down. My second entry was with a chiron, that printed fine until it didn't and then became an expensive doorjam. If I buy a table saw I can reasonably expect to have it working out of the box without needing any extra parts or calibration. Why can't FDM printers be like that (I know why but the closest to that experience is what I'm looking for). insta posted:Buy my ready-to-use CR10, it is currently "push button receive part"
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Sep 13, 2021 23:34
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My Elegoo Saturn just arrived DOA so maybe there's something to be said for the ability to "tinker" with these things and get them to work. This is probably the 10th resin printer I'm sending back to amazon.
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Sep 14, 2021 02:00
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Mr.Trifecta posted:So I haven't ever ventured into Resin printing before. What's the current king of the hill? I am trying to ballpark the amount of printing that can be done out of one bottle of resin. While the print quality should exceed my current FDM's, my concern is I am paying 2-3x just to feed it. Am I wrong in this? In terms of machines, they all print great (the only thing you'll want to get is one with a monochrome screen). The decision really comes down to size of stuff you want to print. A 6" build plate is fine for miniatures but restricting for anything else.
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Sep 14, 2021 13:22
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Doctor Zero posted:Anycubic DLP KS is up. 
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Sep 15, 2021 01:43
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Acid Reflux posted:Just as a general thought, it's entirely possible to post-process resin prints without coating your hands, you, and the rest of the room in uncured material. Even with prints off my bigger machine, I've got my process down to where I only wear a glove on my dominant hand (that's actually likely to touch the uncured model), and my skin is pretty sensitive to the resins. A little bit of care, a little bit of thought put into your work flow, and some silicone salad tongs to help move stuff around all go a long way toward not making a huge mess or creating undue health hazards. I've posted in this thread about it already, but I use these sandwich gloves https://www.amazon.ca/Ronco-Deli-Medium-Disposable-Gloves/dp/B00QEGN8TE/ref=sr_1_9 instead of the much more expensive nitrile gloves for 99% of my resin printing. The reason I bring these up again is because they are so ridiculously cheap that there is no need to do things like only wear them on your dominant hand. Each time I have to take a print off a build plate I can quickly glove up, touch what I need to touch that has, or might have, resin on it and then throw them away. They're never on my hands for more than a minute or two. When I solely used nitrile gloves I found myself trying to ration them in ways that probably put me in contact with way more resin than was needed. I also highly recommend tongs/tweezers for moving uncleaned prints around.
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Sep 15, 2021 13:45
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Fantastic Foreskin posted:Can you not get/use like industrial chemical resistant gloves? The super thick kind. The main problem that disposables solve is stopping you from transferring uncured resin around your work place. You'd have to wash your gloves in IPA thoroughly each time you touch resin. Also, there's definitely a need for the tactile-ness of thin gloves when working with miniatures especially.
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Sep 15, 2021 17:10
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Claes Oldenburger posted:I've been wanting to scratch the itch of small modelling (like Warhammer but not into wargames) and would rather do one offs instead of a whole army. Does anyone have favourite places to get cool small models to print? I like supporting artist patreons so if that's an option, that would be great! Warhammer scale would be perfect, and I prefer fantasy, but would be down for scale models of real things as well. Basically just looking for something fun to print, assemble, and paint. Come join us in the traditional games forum where we have a thread dedicated to miniature printing. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3959573 In terms of specific patreons, there are currently over 200 patreons producing monthly batches of miniatures for people so you're spoiled for choice. Some of the big ones to check out: titan forge, loot studios, archvillain games, cast n play, dragon trappers lodge, highlands miniatures, lord of the print. I back over 20 of them myself so I could keep going here but a lot will depend on the style you like.
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Sep 17, 2021 13:40
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w00tmonger posted:E: whenever I start a new merchant license, I usually grab their previous month as a regular user so I have twice as many initial things to sell. Yeah, if I find a newish patreon that I think has sellable work I'll sub as a regular patron for a month or two to make sure they keep the quality level up each month and then switch to merchant afterwards. That way you have a cheap catalogue of past months to get started with. On a different note, this past week I bought 4 resin printers, received one DOA, ruined another with resin on the screen, and lost my mono X to a still unknown issue. I also had about 30 failed prints between yesterday and today. I take back what I've said previously about resin printing being much simpler than FDM. Here's my weird Mono X issue if anyone has any ideas. Those base layers should be completely flat, but there is a crater in the middle of the plate. That's a dead zone and nothing but the base layers print there. Exposure test is fine, FEP is fine. I'm out of ideas.
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Sep 18, 2021 04:39
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NofrikinfuN posted:Any merchants on here ever back a kickstarter like this one at the merchant tier? Not to mention, these guys running these kickstarters are, for the most part, kind of clueless in terms of actually implementing the rules they set. I've backed a few one-year license kickstarters as well, and I can't think of a single one that asked me what my shop name is. How do they plan to police any of this? Hell, the 99% of the patreons don't police people selling their stuff either.
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Sep 18, 2021 14:57
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NofrikinfuN posted:That's kind of troubling. Sounds like the wild west in terms of licensing. One of my concerns was if the models were found to be copyright infringing, who would take the brunt of the legal trouble, the merchant or the designer? Hopefully, it would only go as far as a C&D and not actually paying damages, but that would be a hassle. It's kind of like getting caught with a stolen item -- doesn't matter if you weren't the thief, you're still in trouble. I've had one takedown notice so far (for using the word "assassin" in my listing - no I'm not kidding). If you sell on Etsy and get too many IP infringement claims they will probably close your store with no recourse for you, so things really suck in that regard. Just don't advertise your products with copyrighted terms and you're probably ok. There's a ton of really egregious stuff out there for IP violations.
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Sep 18, 2021 17:53
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w00tmonger posted:You resin nerds poisoned my brain and I'm on the verge of pledging for a Jupiter. This feels like such a bad idea but I like that it's front opening and has a massive bed I really didn't need one either but considering the huge discount I figured I should probably get one anyway. I can't wait to print entire assembled dragons in one go.
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Sep 19, 2021 04:02
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Doctor Zero posted:The short version is the Anycubic is a 2k machine and the Mars 3 is a 4K. I’ve heard good things about the Mars 3, but honestly if you’re just futzing around for personal use, it’s probably better to get something now as long as it’s a mono screen. I remain unconvinced that there is a visible difference in print detail between 2k and 4k at 30 micron print heights. I guess I'll be able to run some proper tests once my mars3 arrives, but every comparison I've seen so far was horribly flawed.
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Sep 19, 2021 14:57
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Toebone posted:My Mars 2 Pro is acting up again. Every print is a cured rectangle the size of the screen, some broken supports, and a bunch of stringy bits floating in the tank. Time for a new screen again? Almost certainly you need a new screen.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:34
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Doctor Zero posted:I do try to use my 4K with more detailed minis I will be selling just because why not? I doesn’t hurt since I already have one, but I’ve never had anyone complain about the Mars 2 Pro quality that I use either. Back when I was still in the process of ramping up my production capability I was still regularly using my original photon to pump out prints. No one ever noticed or commented. Since I'm also a camera enthusiast I kind of liken 2k versus 4k as the same as a 20 megapixel versus 40 megapixel camera when all you are printing is an 8x10. LCD resolution is irrelevant when you are hitting the absolute detail resolution of the resin that you are printing in. I think a big problem out there is that people are printing on very poorly tuned printers so when they see a beautiful 4k print they get all excited not realizing that their own printer is probably capable of the same quality. Once my Mars3 arrives I'll post super high resolution macro shots from all my different machines (maybe even dust off the photon again), using the same resin, and you guys can try to guess which print came from which printer.
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Sep 19, 2021 17:39
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