3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

While reading this new thread my hand must have slipped and it seemed like page 2 was talking about electrical wiring and I was gettin mad about the derail until I realized it was now reading the House Wiring thread.

Thanks for listening. Please like and subscribe.

# ¿ Jul 21, 2021 23:12

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 22:33

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Disposable chopsticks. Seriously. You can't do everything with them (especially removing build plates and such) but when you need to fish things out of vats or cleaning solution, they save you a lot of gloves.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2021 14:36

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Paradoxish posted:

Going through a ChemE degree filled me with enough stories about the consequences of treating "mostly safe" materials without due respect that I won't go near my resin printer without gloves, long sleeves, and a mask.

Needs elaboration, please.

e: huh. Creality just came out with a BL touch-alike.
https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-cr-touch

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jul 22, 2021

# ¿ Jul 22, 2021 15:22

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Paradoxish posted:

Oops, didn't mean to imply they were personal stories so much as just spending four years getting beaten over the head with the importance of proper safety procedures. The worst that ever happened to me personally was getting a bunch of shards embedded in my leg after an idiot blew up an overpressurized glass cylinder. I did have one professor with a severe epoxy sensitivity from constant exposure and that did not sound fun.

I'm a computer toucher and I don't use my degree at all, so the least I can do is keep this poo poo in mind when dealing with my own fun-time hobby chemicals.

edit- but my understanding of resin sensitivities is that the mechanism is similar to epoxy sensitivities, and that's really not something you want to gently caress around with. it's essentially a "when, not if" kind of thing if you're exposing your skin directly without protection.

So kind of like poison ivy then? I used to think I wasn�t allergic to it and used to pull it out by hand until one day OOPS YOU GET REACTIONS NOW.

I was just curious if you had seen or learned of any example cases. Didn�t mean it had to be you or that I doubted it. Just a lot of people say it is bad (and I believe them) but I am curious about how it manifests.

# ¿ Jul 23, 2021 16:19

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Diabeesting posted:

More newbie questions for you guys. Just got my resin in and I'm doing a test print now and it's looking great so that's a plus!

I got anycubits plant based resin for the low odor factor and now I'm wondering about cleaning safety. Since it's a plant based resin do I still need to treat the cleaning fluid as a hazardous waste or can I just throw the tub in front of the UV light to harden it all and filter off the bits and bin it? The article about eco resin I read baaaasically clarified it all BUT that and I don't want to go poisoning my well.

Yes, you should treat the plant based resin as hazardous but what you described is a good way to dispose of any resin. Fully cure it and toss it. It�s hazardous when uncured.

Basically treat it just like any other kind of resin.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2021 12:36

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

w00tmonger posted:

Looking at moving, and part of that is going to be more of a dedicated 3d printer space. If I had about a grand Canad an to spend on a better FDM printer what should I be going for?

I have multiple resin printers, a souped up ender 3 in an enclosure, and a voron 0.1. I'll mostly be printing wargaming terrain to sell online

My Prusa MK3+ has become my workhorse for that stuff.

Edit: hmmm I looked up a Voron 2.4 build manual and � it looks pretty straightforward??? I built my Prusa MK3 and it wasn�t too bad. This seems about the same level of complexity with the exception of not getting pre-printed parts. Is that accurate? Having done that, I probably won�t have too much trouble, right?

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jul 25, 2021

# ¿ Jul 25, 2021 14:46

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

mewse posted:

If you're seriously considering it I'd recommend Tom Sanladerer's live stream build. It will take hours + hours to watch but you will see the gotchas he ran into, and it is significantly more complex to build than the MK3. He also had a custom wiring harness built for him which might be something most people have to do themselves.

Cool thanks. I was thinking to make this sort of a long term, take my time thing.

What is more complicated, the wiring? I can handle that and a soldering iron.

# ¿ Jul 25, 2021 21:01

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Ghostnuke posted:

how does this work? the melting temp of lead is higher than that of PLA

# ¿ Jul 26, 2021 17:00

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Randalor posted:

I'll check it out. Like I said, the original idea is very... basic in what I need (we're talking adaptingsomething made back in the 80's/90's at a 30mm size, so it's fairly light on fine details, to something that's about 6" tall), so I'm hoping that it'll be a good starting point for learning the program.

If you have an iPad or Mac and you aren't opposed to paying for something I use Shapr3D for things like you describe. The Free version is limited in that you don't have as many import/export options, but is otherwise open with access to all the tools. Should be able to use that for a while and see if you want to pay for it, or maybe just make 1 or 2 things. The free version only exports "low quality STLs", but that might be good enough for your use case.

https://www.shapr3d.com

# ¿ Jul 27, 2021 18:56

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Deviant posted:

so i'm now trying to see if printed solid will exchange this roll of transition PLA for me

blue: jessie transition PLA, 215/60
black: hatchbox black, 215/60

identical gcode, similarly stored filaments. I think i just got a dodgy roll and it's been causing issues.

at their suggestion i went up to 220 and it looks identical.

someone else here said the quality of their transitional PLA had dropped off, too? If I have to go back to hatchbox, i will, but i will grumble about the price.

Check out Matterhackers Build PLA. You can get it pretty cheap buying in bulk and it's better than Hatchbox IMO.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2021 20:51

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

New version of Lychee dropped and it's nice. Seems a hell of a lot faster on Mac and the UI has been streamlined quite a bit. Cool new features like Supports that avoid the base and model look sweet.

It also claims to have support for the Epax E10 5k, which is supposed to only use the new Chitu slicer file format. I guess I'll have to go ahead and install the upgrade so I can see if it works.

# ¿ Jul 28, 2021 19:21

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Zodack posted:

I've just installed a Sovol flex plate on my mars 2 pro, added a spacer and re-homed, re-leveled my build plate and gone to do my first print.

There's a terrible grinding sound when it goes down to do the first few layers. I'm almost certain this is the little flex plate tabs running into the curved side of my resin tank.

What's my next course of action? I'm letting the resin drain off the plate right now. Push the tabs a bit further back on my build plate? Swap out my Elegoo tank for one of my Sovol tanks?

You have the vat in backwards.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2021 23:12

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

asterioth posted:

So I've changed the extruder gear back to the stock one, made sure the ptfe tube is seated correctly and is clear, and changed the nozzle again and it still seems to be doing the same thing. Ive got no clue what the issue might be at this point

Did you calibrate the E axis? You don't absolutely need a caliper - a ruler with mm marks should be close enough for now. or mark it on a strip of paper and measure those marks.

# ¿ Aug 2, 2021 13:22

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

asterioth posted:

Im going to do that next, not sure why it would be off after returning to the stock gear since it didnt have any problems printing with that originally.

Hard to say. Did you check to ensure you didn�t set the extrusion to volumetric? I�ve done that before. Its also possible that it�s always been a little off an messing with it pushed it over the edge. Don�t worry, you�ll get it.

# ¿ Aug 2, 2021 21:21

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

w00tmonger posted:

I use 10%, 10-20 seems to be the norm

I eyeball it, but yeah, 10-20% seems right.

# ¿ Aug 3, 2021 13:50

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

InternetJunky posted:

How do you mix your resins and not make a gigantic mess?

Just pour some into the vat and stir it with a silicone spatula. If you want to be precise, you could pour a measured amount of bth colors into an empty resin bottle.

Deviant posted:

i am unclear on why i should have to do that on a prusa PEI bed. My understanding is that the PEI is supposed to make that unnecessary. In addition to the fact that it's going to make a huge mess.

Edit: it's PLA.

How long have you been using it? Did you try turning it over?

# ¿ Aug 3, 2021 17:07

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

biracial bear for uncut posted:

How much hassle would it be to obtain and swap in a monochrome screen? Or is that 90% of the machine cost? The dual Z rail looks nice, but then again I'm not familiar with the various cheap SLA machines to know if there is a monochrome version out there made by someone else with a similar Z setup.

It�s not just the screen it�s the mobo too. And maybe the light source. Doesn�t really seem worth it when the mono is so cheap.

# ¿ Aug 4, 2021 18:39

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

SEKCobra posted:

Do any of you know an effective way to get curved surface profiles? I tried reference images, but the curves are not easily photographed.

What do you mean by 'profiles'?

# ¿ Aug 5, 2021 14:47

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Toebone posted:

What have people found to be the least smelly resin? I'm currently using gray Siraya Fast, which is much better than Elegoo ABS-like, but my wife still complains occasionally.

I use Phrozen 4K and my wife and her bionic nose can�t smell it.

# ¿ Aug 5, 2021 18:47

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Acid Reflux posted:

I'm friendly with a couple of the guys from 3D Resin Solutions in Illinois, who are the ones doing the manufacturing for Vulcan. I didn't get in on the beta test for that one, but I've done a lot of testing for their other resins, and if Vulcan is even half as good as the rest of the stuff they make then it should be pretty nice to use. They don't have the lowest prices in the industry but I do think they make some of the best resin you can buy (at least for my purposes). I discovered their products about two years ago and have been using them almost exclusively ever since... it was a case of becoming chummy after becoming a customer, and not the reverse, but I still don't usually mention them here because I don't ever want to sound like I'm shilling for them. except maybe this one time

Cool, what's better about it? Durability, detail?

# ¿ Aug 6, 2021 13:19

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

insta posted:

polyphenylsulfone

Gesundheit

# ¿ Aug 7, 2021 17:31

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

they are all toys

# ¿ Aug 11, 2021 14:57

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Hamburlgar posted:

As mad as it sounds, I�m considering buying a couple Ender 5 Plus� for larger prints rather than going the Prusa route for my next few printers.

The 5 is a solid machine. I wish I bought another 5 instead of the CR-6.

Hadlock posted:

There's a link to an unmoderated Google doc on the first page of this thread with some commercial goon offerings, if you're interested

Awesome - I didn't notice that before. Updated. :wotwot:

# ¿ Aug 12, 2021 13:14

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

pbpancho posted:

Well my super cheap used Photon Mono is sort of hosed. Had a resin leak that ruined the screen and the clear piece it sits on, and since the LCD control panel has been sort of hosed up since I got it, I'm thinking I'm better off just getting a new printer. Is there a compelling reason to get anything other than another Photon Mono, assuming I don't want to spend more than $300? I have the magnetic build plate and extra vats/FEP for the Mono already, so I'm leaning that way but if there's a big upgrade I can get, I'd check it out.

Not really. Up until the Mars 3 came out, it was the only affordable 4k printer in town, and it's still a drat fine machine so I would just stick with it. Have you contacted Phrozen to see how much an LCD is?

# ¿ Aug 13, 2021 13:18

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Do you have it in silent mode? That shuts off crash detection.

# ¿ Aug 13, 2021 22:32

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Just put them on a ziplock freezer bag that�s big enough and drop a desiccant in if you have one. Filament always comes with one so it�s not costing you anything and while it may not recondition a roll, it certainly doesn�t hurt anything.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2021 15:02

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

GATOS Y VATOS posted:

lmao shipping the Jupiter is going to be awesome. They mentioned on their FB page that it is going to weigh over 40kg.

Yeah. Shipping on the Mega8k was $500 (although it is 2nd day air from China). With the early bird pricing it was still cheaper than retail, but if you don't want to pay out the nose to get it RIGHTNOWDAMMIT it's best to wait until they get some in a warehouse in the US, or to Amazon or something.

# ¿ Aug 17, 2021 12:47

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Here4DaGangBang posted:

Yeah, I'm with Makers Muse on this, Kickstarter isn't for established companies adding new items to their line. Bankroll that poo poo yourselves and leave KS for operations trying to get their start, FFS.

The Creality CR-6 was an appropriate KS. They didn't have the thing finished, and they didn't know how much of a demand there would be for it. But seeing how THAT turned out, I still agree.

# ¿ Aug 17, 2021 12:51

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

becoming posted:

Ender 3 sisters and bros - In sorting out a clogged nozzle on my E3v2, it occurred to me that I don't have any spares for it. I'd like to rectify that. Where are you buying your nozzles? I've read good things about TriangleLab's nozzles, but they appear to offer very limited quantities for purchase. If I'm going to wait a month for these to show up, I'd like to get a dozen and only ever have to wait that month once. If there's a particularly good product available from a US-based reseller and shipping won't be four weeks, I'm happy to deal in smaller quantities. Are TH3D's nozzles reliable quality? Any others I should look at?

Honestly? I just buy cheap nozzles on amazon and chuck em with they clog or get worn down.

# ¿ Aug 17, 2021 17:39

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

becoming posted:

Yes please, specifically for MK8 nozzles of reasonably good quality. I've been buying my Prusa nozzles directly from Prusa but I don't yet have a known-good supplier for the E3v2. Presumably TH3D's are decent? What else should I be looking at?

Not to be a "please do everything for me" sort of guy, but can you link the supplier? As I wrote in the post that sparked this discussion, I've heard good things about TriangleLab's nozzles but I seem to only be able to buy a max of three at a time. If I'm paying for shipping and waiting a month, I'd like to get a dozen or more. Or just order from a reputable US-based supplier so it only takes a few days.

Oh yeah, I buy quality nozzles for the Prusa. I'd like to hear recommendations on that too.

# ¿ Aug 18, 2021 11:33

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Serenade posted:

Finally got around to getting a wash and cure station, taking the chance to re-evaluate my post print process.

I still can't find a reliable source of 95%+ IPA nor can I find Mean Green offline. Been using Everclear, is that still my best bet? I've seen acetone suggested, but don't know if that's actually a good idea or just people loving around, getting passable results, and preaching their new solution. Acetone breaks down nitrile and thus requires different gloves.

When should I remove supports? I used to print -> drip dry -> remove from build plate -> remove supports -> wash -> cure. Removing supports after curing would be a harder material, but would allow more care and closer cuts.

Acetone does work better than IPA from everything I've seen, but as you identified is more hazardous, smelly, and difficult to handle.

My workflow:

Print (I use flexi plates) > wash 1 (dirtier IPA) > Wash 2 (pretty much clean IPA) > Let dry for 30 minutes to an hour > remove supports > cure

Removing supports when the figure is still kind of soft before it dries fully has the best results in my experience. But if you remove them any time before curing you should be fine.

# ¿ Aug 19, 2021 19:04

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Run an exposure test any time you try new resin. YMMV with it compared to the inter webs.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2021 03:06

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Acid Reflux posted:

Ambrose, you might want to keep an eye on Anycubic's upcoming DLP machine. A friend of mine in the UK received a pre-release unit for review and it's pretty drat impressive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAf0mpF9Nww

I am very interested in this as well. The prints look amazing, but I can�t figure out if it would really reduce layer lines and resolution or not. I mean, the thing still prints in layers, right?

# ¿ Aug 23, 2021 18:37

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Kerro posted:

Just got into the hobby as I am really into making diorama kinda things and man this is a game changer. Finished building a Prusa mk3 and got an anycubic photon mono as well and have started working on a diorama based on the Google earth pictures of Shackleton's hut. Impressed what the mono can put out without much skill on my part but even the prusa is doing great - the boot here was done on the prusa and is perfectly adequate detail for a non-central part.

Wait. Which ones are resin and which are FDM? That boot is FDM?? What nozzle and layer height are you using??

# ¿ Aug 25, 2021 13:41

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

simmyb posted:

Textured PEI steel sheet -- is there something I should be doing every few weeks or months to 'refresh' it a bit?

I typically wipe with alcohol between prints, give it a good hot and soapy every week or so, but it's starting to lose its adhesion.

I'm thinking about lightly abrading it with the 'soft ' scotch brite in case there is a build up of filament by-products baked on.

Thoughts? Do they just get knackered over time? It is about 8 months of pretty regular use

This is what Prusa says. I haven�t had to yet, so who knows if it works.

Prints don�t stick

If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol ~90%. Also, make sure the first layer height is set up perfectly.

If your prints still do not adhere reliably to the print surface, try to wash the sheet in warm water with a few drops of liquid dish soap (not hand soap). This can clean away oils/sugars that are not affected by rubbing alcohol. However, the textured sheet is not water-proof so consider this a last resort which should not be done often.

# ¿ Aug 25, 2021 22:37

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Guest2553 posted:

Y'all making me nervous throwing shade at the anycubic goo. Since getting my photon mono last week I've gone through a kg of eco gray and the only failures I've had were user error like bad orientations, insufficient supports (or in one case, none at all ), or forgetting to fasten the build plate.

Even had an oops today where I printed supported models with negative z-axis elevation, but other than some missing chunks filled in with green stuff, the remainder turned out alright.

When I started I used a few bottles of Anycubic resin. It was fine. But now I use Phrozen 4K resin because I like the color and flexibility of the parts compared to anything else.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2021 03:49

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

w00tmonger posted:

Anyone sell FDM prints that has a good guide for pricing things etc?

Looking to sell small stuff online allongside my resin stuff, but really not sure what's reasonable.

I use the exact same formula I use for resin. Essentially cost of material multiplied an aggregated factor that takes into account supplies, power, my time, etc. Then I look around to see what the market will bear and adjust accordingly if needed (I don't want to be selling double than everyone else). From what I've seen FDM can command a better price because you are printing large items in general, so people are more tolerant of it being more expensive. If anything I probably undercharge what I could but I'm certainly not losing money so... meh.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2021 18:55

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

InternetJunky posted:

I don't want to derail this thread too much with business talk but if you're selling miniatures and terrain pieces and pricing by material costs and printing time I think you're making a huge mistake. There is a big difference between a product-based business and a service-based business and you're leaving a ton of money on the table if you're a product-based business that sells itself as a service business.

Interesting. I don�t think I disagree, but could you explain more how a product based approach would generate more money? I think the people who print stuff for people and businesses who have already designed something do fit into the service business category.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2021 22:52

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

InternetJunky posted:

I know that lots of other mini sellers have spreadsheets where they track resin amount, cleanup time, etc for each miniature and use that in their pricing. They are completely ignoring their product -- it could be a highly detailed and dynamic model that could easily sell for $15 a pop but because of their formulas they list it for $5 and never realise the money they're losing. Just as a simple example, I sell the Godzilla model from Lord of the Print for $200 full size because it's Godzilla. A different miniature that uses similar amounts of materials and time I might sell for $80. If I just used time and materials as my cost basis like so many other sellers I'd be losing out on more than $100 from a single model. I don't know if that makes sense -- I'm finding it weirdly difficult to explain.

It would be different if they came to you with an STL and asked you to print the piece, in which case you're acting as a printing service and nothing else.

Yes, I agree wholeheartedly then! That's the part where i do research on the market for the product. If the model fits into a niche that's hard to find models for, or if there are not a lot of other sellers for it, I adjust pricing upward. :capitalism:

# ¿ Aug 31, 2021 17:05

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# ¿ May 8, 2024 22:33

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

The Eyes Have It posted:

But when markets are stacked with people selling minis for $3 each, $3 becomes what people are willing to pay

I know you put a smiley there and all, but not necessarily. I bet you that most of those $3 minis are lovely prints with almost no care taken for cleaning and shipping. I make things that I would want to game with, so I make sure I am not shoveling garbage out to make a buck. I�ve got a good amount of repeat customers and consistently high feedback. There will always be a market for quality.

Hell I ran across one seller that didn�t even cure the minis and remove supports! He made his customers do it! :psyduck:

# ¿ Aug 31, 2021 23:34

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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