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Turn it until it creaks, then back off an eighth of a turn.
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Jul 20, 2021 04:38
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Hadlock posted:Yeah mainly I just want to generate an STL, for example, a 2x2" square plate about 3mm thick, with a smaller 1/2" hollow square that's about 1" tall, in the middle of the plate, wall thickness also about 3mm, so I can glue that to the deck of the boat and stick the vertical mast in it, aka "mast step". Not much different from a patio umbrella stand. This is exactly what the CAD-based modeling tools (Fusion 360 etc) are intended for. Draw a 2D sketch of your part with dimensions and hit the extrude button and you are there.
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Jul 27, 2021 15:57
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Yeah “cigarette case” sure lol.
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Jul 28, 2021 01:30
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Sagebrush posted:B) take orthographic photos of the thing with a ruler in the picture, scale and square up and adjust on the computer, and trace the shape directly in your software (or if the part is small, put it directly on a flatbed scanner) This combined with plunking the photos down on appropriate planes in F3D or whatever and connecting the dots seems like the best bet for arbitrary shapes.
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Aug 5, 2021 19:43
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Much greater bang for your buck with a vernier caliper. Plus you get more street cred.
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Aug 7, 2021 18:10
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What is the rate of change of jerk called.
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Aug 13, 2021 16:43
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Depending on context, "snap" or "jounce". This rules.
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Aug 13, 2021 18:51
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I think the Prusa documentation says something like you should expect at least several hundred hours of printing from a nozzle if you aren't using any kind of abrasive filament.
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Sep 3, 2021 21:38
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For some people tinkering with the machine constantly while tryin to get stuff to actually print right is most of the fun.
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Sep 4, 2021 04:08
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Baconroll posted:Completed my 1st ever print - benchy of course. I'm totally blown away by the quality. If the wires aren't fitting then you have the wrong wires going through the wrong openings in the box.
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Sep 10, 2021 20:09
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Conventional wisdom is that the additional price of the Prusa is about what you would pay in necessary upgrades and the time spent tweaking and fine-tuning a cheaper printer to get similar results as the Prusa OOTB. Always possible to get lucky with a cheaper printer tho, and for some people tinkering with the machine is half the fun.
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Sep 13, 2021 19:37
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Don’t forget you an rotate objects to fit diagonally on the plate, and turn off or move in the skirt to gain a few more mm if you want.
withak fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Sep 13, 2021 |
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Sep 13, 2021 21:03
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Prusa machines also come with phone/chat support where an actual person will help you fix any of the common setup/calibration issues.
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Sep 13, 2021 23:26
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Probably better to source some kind of rubbery feet that you can glue on after after printing. Would help keep the thing from sliding around on whatever surface it will sit on.
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Sep 16, 2021 21:13
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They give you the files on a usb drive for a bunch of test prints. You will want Prusa Slicer to print your own stuff eventually.
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Sep 20, 2021 16:09
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InternetJunky posted:
This is my pet peeve. We don’t care if the machine is level, we only care if the build plate is perpendicular to the z-axis. The machine will work fine on a tilt (within reason).
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Sep 21, 2021 22:53
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What does the back look like.
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Sep 24, 2021 05:57
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I like to use this for z calibration, but you need to have a micrometer to get it right: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/first-layer-calibration-test (corrected link) If you don't use this model, then I think the key thing in the default z-height calibration run that the machine prints is to make sure the solid square at the end peels off as a solid sheet. If the individual threads pull apart easily while you are handling it then you need to lower your z. The initial zigzag pattern is useful because the bead should be noticeably squashed down between the nozzle and the plate. If the bead looks/feels mostly round then you are too high. Crank down the z until that single bead looks visibly squashed and you should be pretty close. The way they set it up at the factor your z should end up somewhere around -1.5 or lower. If you have done anything with the sensor height then it could be different. Like someone else said, the back of that Prusa logo test model should be smooth with little to no visible lines. withak fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 24, 2021 17:53
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When you have a 3D printer then every problem can be solved by adding a cheap plastic part.
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Sep 30, 2021 01:24
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Before buying you have to decide whether you want your hobby to be 3d printing, or tinkering with 3d printers. (no judgement)
withak fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 18:21
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It’s not really a secret, there are plenty of buyers guides around talking about how printers at the $200ish price point are likely to require a bunch of work, if not a bunch of new parts, before you have a working machine. For some people the tinkering is the fun part. Up to you if you want to pay money to a company who operates that way.
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Oct 2, 2021 21:29
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Can’t believe you all bought the wrong printer.
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Oct 3, 2021 01:15
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I have also had people on conference calls ask what that noise is when I was in the same room as my running Prusa Mini. Putting a heavy tile under it damped it way down and people don't hear it now.
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Oct 4, 2021 22:05
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Also be prepared for all roads to lead to Prusa.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:17
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The layer shift is probably related to all of the long unsupported bridges at that same z.
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Oct 10, 2021 15:53
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One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.
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Oct 13, 2021 05:04
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Another attempt at an unholy marriage of CNC machine and Mig welder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFXniBbgbw0 TOT is a riot.
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Oct 15, 2021 22:08
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PETG is less brittle, so overloaded parts will bend or deform instead of cracking or breaking. It has better abrasion resistance and it will last longer if it is in the sun a lot.
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Oct 17, 2021 04:32
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PLA is usually stiffer than PETG. Also for food safety I would worry a lot more about the difficulty of cleaning porous surfaces than about the chemistry of the plastic itself.
withak fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Oct 17, 2021 |
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Oct 17, 2021 05:30
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I always insist on calling it “perpendicularing”
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Oct 22, 2021 01:44
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DarkAvenger211 posted:I've heard/seen the term z-offset around but I'm actually not sure what that is. Is it a setting in the slicer? A setting in the printer software somewhere? It’s a setting that controls the height of the nozzle above the print bed. If it is dialed in properly then the first layer going down on the print bed should be exactly your desired layer thickness. If it is too high then your fist layer won’t be solid or you won’t get good adhesion to the print bed and if it is too low then the first layer will look kind of gnarly and maybe also won’t stick properly.
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Oct 25, 2021 21:08
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Definitely don't print TPU on a smooth PEI sheet.
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Oct 28, 2021 20:38
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Now try something where stringing will be a factor. 
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Oct 28, 2021 21:44
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Guess who just fixed a bunch of weird printing issues by buying a food dehydrator? <— this guy Shoulda tried this weeks ago.
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Oct 31, 2021 05:19
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Deviant posted:Prusa mini review: I have this too, it is great.
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Nov 4, 2021 22:38
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Thin stamped-metal wrench makes for less of a heat sink when you put it on a hot nozzle.
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Nov 5, 2021 19:44
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The problem is the machine detecting a runaway heating situation and turning off power to the hotend before the new nozzle gets seated.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:32
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It’s a safety feature. When something starts sucking a lot more energy from the hotend than usual then the machine appropriately assumes that a fire is about to start and cuts power to the heater. Also not everyone has magic elf hands and can change a nozzle in 60 seconds flat.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:51
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Dry the filament before trying anything else.
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Nov 6, 2021 17:47
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 21:41 |
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Deviant posted:It's a brand new sealed sample from prusa and it had been out of the bag, oh, 5 minutes? While I loaded. Dry it anyway while you google other solutions.
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Nov 6, 2021 19:12
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