The Eyes Have It posted:

But when markets are stacked with people selling minis for $3 each, $3 becomes what people are willing to pay

Baconroll posted:

Newb questions - I've just started the calibration on my 1st printer - Prusa Mini+ and I'm playing with the Z axis height - I think I'm at the point where the corners are a nice 90 degrees and aren't lifting so I think we're about ready to go.

Once you've printed something do you tend to wiggle the print off, or scrape it, or flex the steel sheet ?

Do you let the bed cool down to a certain amount - i.e. room temp or 30C or whatever ? I know I'm not grabbing anything over 50c

So the nitty gritty - Your print head has stopped moving and your print has just completed - whats your usual routine now ?

The Eyes Have It posted:

The Eyes Have It posted:

I once ordered a dozen sheets of plastic as part of an order, and when I opened the box, the first thing I saw was a couple "end piece" sheets on the stack. You know, protective film wrinkled, scratched surface.

I was pissed that they shipped me junk pieces as part of fulfilling my order, but I did an emotional 180 when I counted them. There were 12 "good" pieces -- they threw in crappy finish ones for free.

At least I didn't embarrass myself by speed-dialing them before I counted the order!

biracial bear for uncut posted:

They've had CAD models of everything from fasteners to pipe fittings to whatever since about 2013 as far as I can remember.

You look up something, and then look for the link to the CAD downloads available for the thing and pick the 3d model version you want.

Granted, it's geared towards Solidworks but I think they have IGES and STEP options.

cakesmith handyman posted:

Also great to print from!

Pentecoastal Elites posted:

holy poo poo! is this a new feature? I don't remember them doing this, but it's been a few years since I've browsed the website. This is a total game changer

GonadTheBallbarian posted:

My ender 3v2 is a failure factory and I've finally had it. Junking this POS for parts and saving up for a prusa.

poverty goat posted:

Thanks for the answers. Next question: There's an ender 3 v2 (with BLTouch leveling sensor which it says is worth $80) on craigslist asking $175. Should I hesitate to buy one of these used from craigslist?

withak posted:

One time I failed to tihhtrn my nozzle and the heaet was totally off.

Mr. Mercury posted:

Ya for real, had an issue at work and the solution was a bespoke over-engineered machine that could be replaced by a servo and weirdly-shaped blocks on rails.

So I just designed the blocks and saved us fifty thousand loving dollars

Unperson_47 posted:

Kinda curious to see these bottles of lowly resin

ImplicitAssembler posted:

The engineering for it isn't hard,

Paradoxish posted:

Hell, people forget that IPA is actually pretty dangerous. Like I'm generally more concerned about getting large amounts of IPA on my skin than I am resin, mostly because the risk with resin is an errant drop vs. total immersion with IPA. A lot of people who get reactions when they splash some resin-soaked IPA on their skin might legit just be getting a reaction to the alcohol.

Part of the reason I haven't tried using acetone to clean prints is that I once so saw someone in a lab break out in a massive, disgusting red rash almost immediately after splashing some acetone on their arm. gently caress that.

Bucnasti posted:

What's the best way to get remnants of a 3d print (the skirt and supports) off of the build plate on and FDM printer using PLA? Just keep scraping it? Sandpaper? Solvents?

SEKCobra posted:

Most CA accelerators are just acetone btw.

MustardFacial posted:

Tried to print a rack to hold a bunch of RAM stick for work and got a layer shift a little over halfway through. I've never had a layer shift before and apart from this have been printing other things just fine.



You can see the print was going just fine until the layer shift happened and then everything after started having all of these ripples in it. AFAIK there was no change throughout the print in terms of the table being bumped or anything. This was all being done in isolation and I was alone in the house at the time this was happening.



This is the other side of that layer shift, you can see there is definitely some under extrusion or poor layer adhesion here. This is the front of the piece, but the back of the piece on this same side looks just fine.



This is the other side of the rack (let's call it the right side). The layer shift is on this side as well but you can tell it's not nearly as bad as the left side. It also starts to clear up near the back of the piece to be much closer to not shifting at all.



Other side of the right hand layer shift. Definite layer adhesion problems at the end and maybe a little bit of warping?

Anybody have any idea what could caused this? I think the nozzle might have been rubbing against the part on travel moves and it just hit the part too hard at some point and cause the layer shift (skipped a tooth on the belt? Probably not though). I might try to re-slice this piece with a z hop on travel moves and see if it comes out any better unless anyone here has a much more obvious solution.

Deviant posted:

Would anyone be able to print me a few of this part in TPU? I don't want to gently caress with a whole roll for tiny widgets.

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/146399-sunlu-filadryer-s2-ptfe-adapter

Deviant posted:

Thanks. Sorted this out.

The Eyes Have It posted:

Frankly the first layer looks too high off the bed to me (unless that was printed on a raft, in which case it's a bit more normal looking)

But if you're not having adhesion problems and your prints are remaining stuck to the bed during printing, then sure, leave it. The bottom is serviceable and the rest looks A-OK.

Hadlock posted:

Somebody suggest me a TPU (black color maybe?) I can use for some custom RC car tires, that I can order on amazon

Cool, thanks!

Hadlock posted:

You could put a simple one way flap with a gasket to seal, I think they sell these for dryers. I dunno if your activated carbon extraction system will have enough airflow to shut the dryer flap, but it could work. But yeah most likely you'll end up with a lot of lint in your 3d goo

Vaporware posted:

First layer woes continue. I had it nice and level, but kept having adhesion problems randomly. I did a 5x5 grid (top 4 rows pictured, the others are great) and got these results. My bed level is only off by variance of .3, but that enough that I can't get good adhesion without crashing the nozzle on higher layers.

SkunkDuster posted:

I'm fine with learning on PLA, but the final product will need to be very flexible so I'll eventually transition to TPU (unless there is a better suggestion). They want these parts yesterday, so I want to get everything ordered and on-hand so I can move as quickly as possible. That's why I'm asking if the SainSmart TPU is good or if I should get something different.

BMan posted:

It looks perfectly normal to me. Also sharks aren't smooth

SkunkDuster posted:

A little off topic, but I posted earlier about printing with rubber filament and somebody suggested making a master copy with my resin printer and casting the parts in flexible resin. That definitely seems the way to go. For a flexible casting resin, I need something in the Shore A 90-100 range or Shore D 40-50 range. I found some Shore A 90 polyurethane casting resin, but it only has a 3 minute working time. I'm planning to use a vacuum chamber to degass the resin and cast several parts at once, so 3 minutes is pretty limiting. Any ideas on a flexible casting resin in those hardness ranges with a working time of 30 minutes or more?

ImplicitAssembler posted:

https://www.smooth-on.com/category/urethane-resin/

Pretty sure you can find what you need here.

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Missing the glory days of 3dhubs hurts, doesn't it?

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Yup, once upon a time anybody with a 3d printer could sell time and material on their machine and ship parts out and the calculator the site used by default wasn't too bad.

Then a bunch of assholes started underbidding other folks at a loss and submitting jobs and then leaving bad reviews on otherwise good printer owners, it got bought by somebody and turned into another site where you submitted things to larger businesses for quotes like Shapeways.

Vaporware posted:

Ghost gun is easy, get a ghost model, get a gun model, load the ghost in prusaslicer, then right click and "add part" or load part, something like that. Select your gun, move it to the ghosts hand or mouth or whatever and now the slicer will union them together where you put it. You can even export that combined model as an STL.

Re: learning 3D modeling. There are 2 or so paths. Mudbox and the like are sculpting programs. Fusion is a CAD analog. Somewhere in between is the parametric stuff like openSCAD and tinkercad.

Chose one path at first and one program because they all have their own workflow. This is was a well trod path even when I learned it at college circa early 2000s, but I have no idea where to get free tutorials or how to's. All the free guidance from fusion 360 wasn't helpful for what I was trying to do, and the youube channels I checked were the same. An instructor led course is my advice.

ImplicitAssembler posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcMxEkVvIdE&t=186s

This is insane (wait for it to start 2nd layer)

Isometric Bacon posted:

:Edit: I should have been using the word 'heater cartridge' not thermosister.

Isometric Bacon posted:

A friend handed me a gear, I believe from a car power window driver, and asked me if it was something I could 3D print.

Spent a little bit of time reverse engineering this gear and came up with this using Blender.



Note one of the images is upside down (to show underneath) and the green is some mild supports I added, though I'm thinking I might not need them.

Curious to any printing advice when it comes to functional parts like this. I have access to PLA+ and PETG - I presumed I'd print it in the PETG and he can try that out in the car.

You can see the gears in the original part got worn down over the decades. I don't expect this one to hold up quite as well - but if it works he can probably send the file to someone else to print.

Cory Parsnipson posted:

That might have been me. Just to clarify I wasn't taking a political stance by asking. I literally never heard of them before and any referral/anti-referral for suppliers is something I'm interested in.

Sounds like they're a small business with Opinions(TM). Cool, should be easy to avoid them.

Deviant posted:

It's not easily possible to have octoprint power my prusa mk3s on and off, is it?

mattfl posted:

Sorry, I should have been more clear. This is a horrible medium to present a tutorial in.

ryanrs posted:

I buy a fair number of $30-50 parts from those 3D printing brokers.

One example, 3x5x1.75 inches, 56 cm3 volume


For that part, in small quantities, I'm paying $27 from JLC in China, and up to $35 for some brokers.

This part is designed for HP Multi Jet Fusion (sintered nylon), so it might need changes for FDM. Also, I need the parts to handle occasional exposure to 80 C, so that limits materials. Nylon, PC-ABS, and ASA work.

Are there any goons who can print high temp materials that might be interested in printing parts for me? (Just personal hobby stuff for now.)

Nerobro posted:

No. But now I need to look that up. hah.

Sagebrush posted:

3D printed guns are concerning to me, but not because of anything involving terrorists or criminals. Any bad actor who wants to kill people can easily get a real gun, as America's Problem continues to demonstrate.

3D printed guns concern me for the situation where a 13-year-old kid with no thoughts other than "guns are cool" downloads the parts and prints one at the library, steals some bullets from his dad, and then goes out into the woods to go shooting and blows off his hand because he didn't understand the difference between PLA and ABS and the design was barely functional in the first place.

Nerobro posted:

I mean, think about what it takes to print a 3d printer. You can't really get ~there~ from ~here~ without a lot of other work. Most of the 3dp gun stuff now is printed serialized parts, so a typical 3dp gun is MOSTLY just a normal firearm. And.. just as safe as the factory thing. Very few, very little, of this is ~functional gun from scratch~. And every libarary I've seen with 3dp stuff, has someone monitoring it.

This. This so many times.