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Going through a ChemE degree filled me with enough stories about the consequences of treating "mostly safe" materials without due respect that I won't go near my resin printer without gloves, long sleeves, and a mask.
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Jul 22, 2021 15:04
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Doctor Zero posted:Needs elaboration, please. Oops, didn't mean to imply they were personal stories so much as just spending four years getting beaten over the head with the importance of proper safety procedures. The worst that ever happened to me personally was getting a bunch of shards embedded in my leg after an idiot blew up an overpressurized glass cylinder. I did have one professor with a severe epoxy sensitivity from constant exposure and that did not sound fun. I'm a computer toucher and I don't use my degree at all, so the least I can do is keep this poo poo in mind when dealing with my own fun-time hobby chemicals. edit- but my understanding of resin sensitivities is that the mechanism is similar to epoxy sensitivities, and that's really not something you want to gently caress around with. it's essentially a "when, not if" kind of thing if you're exposing your skin directly without protection. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jul 23, 2021 |
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Jul 23, 2021 15:50
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Doctor Zero posted:I was just curious if you had seen or learned of any example cases. Didn’t mean it had to be you or that I doubted it. Just a lot of people say it is bad (and I believe them) but I am curious about how it manifests. For what it's worth, the professor I had with the epoxy resin sensitivity (who used to work with the stuff on a factory floor) said he would break out in an oozing rash now if he came into contact with even a few particles. Sounded fairly horrific tbh Didn't think you were accusing me of anything, was just clarifying what I meant.
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Jul 23, 2021 17:10
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Yeah, I go through tons of extremely cheap, low-quality PLA (like 4kg+ per week sometimes) and I've honestly never experienced lift that I could blame on the spool and not some kind of bed/environmental issue.
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Jul 29, 2021 15:13
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Sagebrush posted:potato chip bag clips generally not great if you're trying to use up the last bits of a pla roll, though
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Jul 31, 2021 23:00
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becoming posted:No but seriously, I like reading about folks that don't hate their Ender 3 v2. I'm going into this with eyes wide open, expecting that it will be fiddly, but there is a part of me that knows this could be a terrible idea. Other than the bed-leveling springs, what changes should I realistically expect to make before I'm cranking out toys for the kiddos with pretty reasonable quality? They aren't picky about a little elephant's foot, but I don't want to burn my house down either. I bought this kit with the expectation that it was all I'd need to do day-one, but if there's something else you'd highly recommend I'd sure like to hear about it. They're honestly not that fiddly. I've got three Ender 3s (two v2s and an original) that run almost constantly doing paid work for me. I haven't touched them to mess with anything in forever and I'm in the habit of walking away without even watching the first layer go down. That first V2 must have easily over 1000 hours of actual work on it at this point. Better springs, better PTFE tubing, and a metal extruder. That's what you need and that kit includes them all. The really important thing is to be super loving anal about your assembly. I like this guy's video a lot, he goes over a lot of the pain points that can cause a ton of frustration later on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTN6jtB5mqk
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Aug 12, 2021 00:51
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Hamburlgar posted:As mad as it sounds, I’m considering buying a couple Ender 5 Plus’ for larger prints rather than going the Prusa route for my next few printers. This seems totally reasonable to me depending on your use case. The original Ender 3 in my farm was basically free, but I bought my second v2 mostly because "cheap, reliable enough, will mostly pay for itself almost immediately" drastically outclassed any advantages I could imagine from a more expensive printer. I'm probably going to add two more v2s to my farm in the near future unless something new comes along that's equally cheap and reliable as a workhorse.
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Aug 12, 2021 06:50
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Ghostnuke posted:can any of you that are using ender 3v2s (and prusaslicer) post configs? I seem to have to play with settings every single thing I print, gets kind of old printing 4 of something to get 1 good one. It's going to depend a lot on what you're printing, the material you're using, and (to some degree) any changes you've made to the machine. You shouldn't really have to change settings from print to print assuming you aren't changing anything else, though. What kinds of issues are you having and what settings are you constantly tweaking?
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Aug 12, 2021 23:26
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Pentecoastal Elites posted:thank you both -- I removed my Z screw and loosened the wheel plate connections to the gantry, and there was enough play there to let me get everything dead nuts level and reinstall the Z screw. Yeah, far and away the biggest issue with Ender 3 build quality is just the actual build process. It's less true on the v2, but you definitely still need to take a ton of care with assembly. I bought an original Ender 3 for <$50 off a dude who had it for several years, tinkered with it like crazy, but could never, ever get it to print reliably. All I did was clean a huge blob of death from the hot end (didn't even replace the nozzle at the time!) and completely disassemble and reassemble the whole machine. It's been working flawlessly for me for pretty close to a year now. It's not even an issue of poor instructions, it's just a problem that things won't naturally square out so you need to be absolutely sure that everything is level or you'll have endless issues that are impossible to track down.
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Aug 27, 2021 04:39
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SEKCobra posted:My take on the Ender/Prusa debate is the following: This is basically why I've almost never recommended high-end 3d printers to anyone, even though I used to manage a ton of them for a school system. To use a dumb analogy, I just bought a pretty expensive kayak after owning several cheap ones. I'd never, ever tell someone who's never paddled before to go spend $800+ on a boat, because that's loving crazy if you don't even know if you'll like it. 3D printing is a weird "hobby" because a lot of people who buy 3D printers have zero use case for them. They're going to print some upgrades for their printers and some cheap garbage, and then maybe use it once in a while to make something moderately useful. Because of that, I actually think that blanket recommendations are kind of garbage without knowing more about what a person wants and why they want a printer. Artist or designer without a lot of technical ability and a need to put things out right away? Definitely an MK3S+ or maybe even something a little higher-end. Someone who just thinks 3D printing looks cool without any particular goals in mind? I can't imagine recommending anything that costs more than $300 unless money is really no object or that person just absolutely has no ability to troubleshoot relatively minor issues. "Better" is just a lot more subjective than this thread likes to admit.
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Sep 5, 2021 02:47
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I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but there's no particular reason to choose one resin printer over another aside from resolution and bed size, right? Are there any known dogs out there right now? About to start a kind of long-term printing project and I want a second, relatively cheap printer so I have a reasonable chance of finishing this in the next six months. Probably just going to end up getting a Mars 2 since my other printer is 2k and I can't see any good reason to do half my prints in higher quality.
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Sep 12, 2021 04:25
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GotDonuts posted:Metal Upgrade Parts :https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Alu...la-904266773231 Yes. quote:Bowden Tubing Upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0915V313...0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Yes. quote:Dual Axis Lead Screw Upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/Creality-End...08RJDW5W6&psc=1 Don't need it in my opinion. I played around with these on one of my machines and it didn't make a noticeable difference. I was trying to solve a specific quality issue that I was attributing to gantry sag, but it turned out to just be the result of the leadscrew being dirty/needing lubrication. Probably not horrible if you want to throw money at the printer or just tinker with it, but I don't think you're going to get any benefits to justify the cost. quote:Dampers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096B5WW1...2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Almost certainly don't need it on a v2. You're not going to hear the motors over the fans.
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Sep 17, 2021 06:47
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GotDonuts posted:What kinda upgrades beyond the ones I listed for the ender 3 V2 would be worth the cost then? Would be going for an extruder be a worthwhile investment, just trying to push quality as much as possible. You're going to get perfectly good quality out of an Ender 3 v2 (or, honestly, nearly any modern FDM printer) if it's working properly and you're using good filament with appropriate slicer settings. I use my Ender 3s for paid work that's mostly printing functional prototypes and I don't have any upgrades specifically intended to improve quality. I used to use them to print miniatures and the quality wasn't much worse than what I'm getting out of my resin printer now. I would recommend buying those first two kits in your post, printing for a while, and then trying to figure out if there are quality issues you need to solve. I will say that the dual lead screw is probably the closest thing to a straight improvement you can make, I just don't personally think it's going to produce really noticeable or meaningful quality improvements unless you're having so much gantry sag that you can't level your bed properly. If you want to go beyond PLA/PETG then building or buying an enclosure might be a good idea.
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Sep 17, 2021 16:26
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ImplicitAssembler posted:https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-resin/products/polyjuice-water-washable-resin-grey?variant=30877785096277 I didn't have very good luck with the water washable stuff I tried. It "worked," but seemed kind of finicky, whereas I've barely ever had to really futz around with settings or deal with failed prints on other resins. Seems kind of pointless now that IPA is back in stock and widely available all over the place, to be honest.
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Oct 1, 2021 16:39
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Doctor Zero posted:3d printers really aren’t ‘consumer electronics’ yet. Best get that out of your head right now. They are ‘hobbyist’ at best. Prusa is getting close, but each individual machine, filament roll/resin bottle, and printing environment throws too many variables into the mix to make it an appliance. I would liken them to a nice 268/386 PC from around 1990. There are some you can just buy and use out of the box, but most of them require a level of knowledge to really get working properly. I feel like this needs to be reinforced over and over and over again. 3d printing is an activity where you can potentially waste hours of your time because a roll of filament showed up slightly wet despite being in a nice, perfectly vacuum-sealed pouch. I know I've been lucky with my printers, but I've wasted drastically more time due to software issues or filament consistency problems than I ever have because of actual printer defects.
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Oct 2, 2021 19:23
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For many people, spending $50 on upgrades/replacements is a better option than spending 2-3x more on the base printer. That's it. You can get super pissy that this kind of behavior means that companies aren't held accountable, but we don't live in a world where everyone has infinite money to blow on hobbies. The bottom line is that Creality printers, when they work, provide an incredibly affordable entry point that will produce similar quality to much more expensive machines. That's why people buy them, and that's why people put up with their poo poo. Maybe that "unfairly" benefits Creality, but it is what it is.
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Oct 2, 2021 20:23
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Hey resin people, how often do you do any kind of routine maintenance on your FEP, vats, and build plates? I'm not talking about replacing things, but just general cleaning. I only use my resin printer for personal stuff, but I print a whole lot with it and I just ordered another one. I hardly ever do any cleaning on the machine itself. I rarely give the build plate a good cleaning, I mostly just wipe it off between prints and, uh, sometimes not even then. I only empty the vat when I won't be printing for a few days or if I'm changing the resin, and I usually just use a little IPA and wipe down whatever's left on the FEP until it looks pretty clear. I pretty much never get failed prints or obvious quality issues, so ultimately I don't think about it much. It hit me today that I'm probably loving things up, so how often should I be cleaning this stuff and should I be doing more to clean to FEP? Also, how much should I worry about keeping the build plate clean aside from just wiping away the excess resin?
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Oct 3, 2021 01:18
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InternetJunky posted:Except for FEP changes every 3 months I don't do any preventative maintenance on my machines. That said, I also have three Mars2 Pros out of commission right now waiting for new screens so maybe I need to adopt some type of general cleaning routine. I'm not sure that would solve anything though as FEP holes are the screen killers and they are pretty much impossible to prevent unless you strain your resin after every print and replace your FEP after each failed print. I guess I've been lucky since I've been running the printer pretty heavily for more than 3 months and there doesn't seem to be any indication right now that the FEP is in imminent need of replacement. I do have a roll of replacement film ready to go just in case. I'm thinking I'm lucky because I haven't really had any failed prints (one, kind of, out of easily 50+ full build plates), so there haven't been any floaters running around in the vat to puncture the FEP. You're probably right that I should start scraping down the whole build plate after each print instead of just relying on dumb luck, though.
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Oct 4, 2021 05:45
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It's darkly amusing to me how wide the range is in terms of how people treat resin printer safety. You've got everything from people running these printers all day on their desks two feet from their face to people who won't run them anywhere except in a detached structure with a full fume hood and scrubber. There's also very little authoritative or reliable information. Even with a background in chemistry and tons of research into the topic I'm not at all confident in my own choices or making suggestions for other people. Resin printing is cool as hell, but extremely disconcerting in some ways.
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Oct 4, 2021 14:46
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Where are you buying your resins? Because everybody from Elegoo (just one example, they have others) to Prusa (ditto note as with Elegoo) to Monoprice to Siraya Tech (again, just one example for one material type) has MSDS sheets that tell you exactly what you need to worry about with regard to safety and dangers associated with the resins. An MSDS is not in any way a replacement for actual data on exposure and risks, and the sheets you linked are extremely poor in terms of recommendations. There's much better information on long-term exposure limits for something as simple and widely used cyanoacrylate. It's also worth pointing out that the Elegoo data sheet you linked is in direct contradiction to your post here: quote:RIP your lungs. If you can smell it, it's a problem (and as another poster said, even if you can't smell it there is probably a problem). Resins are toxic as gently caress. Ventilate that poo poo. Their exposure controls/PPE section lists no exposure limits, recommends absolutely no breathing equipment or ventilation under normal usage conditions, and doesn't even strongly recommend glove usage. It's basically "wash your hands before you eat if you touched it."
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Oct 4, 2021 15:10
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biracial bear for uncut posted:An MSDS is, however, a head's up document that you should take precautions. They are also all written from the perspective of the reader being properly trained in basic safety precautions when handling or working with industrial chemicals and substances. I didn't miss anything in Elegoo's MSDS, but I don't know why you're reading my original post as "I think resin is safe and people are being too cautious" instead of "I think resin is dangerous and wish there was more data on the specific risks." You've got this weird aggro tone going on when my whole point is that I'm uncomfortable with how casually resin printing is treated. If anything, my concern is that literally all home precautions are likely to be inadequate if there's actually a severe danger from inhalation, and that people who build homemade cabinets may be lulling themselves into a false sense of security.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:49
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Usually "Nobody published a study yet about resins giving people cancer, so it must be safe, right?" or some similarly asinine remark about how they handle resin all the time while taking risks and are just fine, so everyone else should be fine, too. That's cool and all, but I have no idea how you got that from my post calling resin printing "disconcerting."
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Oct 4, 2021 16:06
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ImplicitAssembler posted:This is the decision I'm trying to make at the moment: Do I just need PPE when handling the stuff?. Printer will be enclosed, but also trying to figure out if I need to vent the enclosure outside or if a carbon filter will suffice. Yeah, this is what I mean. My resin printer is off in the corner of an extremely large and basically unused room with pretty decent ventilation. I have a fairly ghetto fume hood set up around it that can exhaust outside, but "does it smell?" is a pretty lovely test. The only time I ever smell anything over there is when I'm pouring fresh resin. Even my cheapo Sonic Mini (non-4k) doesn't emit any detectable odors with the lid on while it's running, at least not from anything like a reasonable distance. Does that mean my set up is "safe?" Who the gently caress knows. I suspect there's no really detectable odor only because the printer is already in a large room with decent ventilation, so it doesn't really have an opportunity to stink up the place. But I can't know what my level of exposure is and I can't know what an actual safe level of exposure might be.
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Oct 5, 2021 02:15
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Did anybody ever find that print seller's storefront for the guy that ships uncured resin prints to his customers? Why would anyone want to do this or buy from this person? What's even the point?
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Oct 6, 2021 21:11
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Doctor Zero posted:Jesus Christ... If this wasn't already gone I would 100% return the second printer I just bought and buy that instead. That's a crazy price for a really pointlessly high resolution on what I'm assuming is the same or similar built-plate size to the mini 4k?
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Oct 7, 2021 16:52
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Doctor Zero posted:It’s not gone, it hasn’t gone on sale yet. That was the pre-release announcement. I swore I wasn’t going to get more printers, but that’s a no brainer. Oops, somehow I misread that as the early bird pre-order slots already being gone. gently caress.
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Oct 7, 2021 19:09
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becoming posted:I'm trying to figure out what autocorrected to "longer" -- Sidewinder? https://www.longer3d.com/
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Oct 8, 2021 03:07
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w00tmonger posted:Im moving into a new place and trying to sort out where to put all my resin printers (and fdm but that feels like an easier problem). The cheapest and easiest option (if you have access to a window) is to build a hacked-together fume hood. Both of my printers are sitting inside the frame of a shallow kitchen wall cabinet I had lying around. No doors on the front, but a piece of plexiglass screwed in that covers the top foot and a half of the opening, and then a duct routed to a portable air conditioner window kit with a fan drawing air outside. It's not 100% sealed by any means and my printers aren't in a space that's regularly occupied, but it's effective at eliminating pretty much all of the odor. There's nothing detectable even when you're standing right in front of one of the printers and removing the cover after a print. Pretty much the only time I smell resin is when I'm pouring it. Another option if you don't have easy access to a window or don't want to route a lot of ductwork is to build a bucket filter using a 5-gallon bucket and an inline filter. You could mount something like that directly on top of or next to your enclosure if you needed to. You wouldn't be exhausting the air outside, but I'd personally be comfortable being in a room with a setup like that.
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Oct 20, 2021 15:19
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I feel like I would buy a used resin printer if it was one that was normally $300+ retail In theory. Because I have two now and I don't know why I would ever need more than two.
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Oct 20, 2021 16:38
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Commodore_64 posted:Not going to lie, I nearly impulse bought that phrozen 8k. I’ve never had a resin printer before, but I haven’t really a specific need right now and plenty of other projects. I nearly stopped myself when I realized the shipping annihilated nearly all of the early bird savings but then I did it anyway because I have problems
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Oct 21, 2021 17:54
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biracial bear for uncut posted:
It's a weird and stupid design, but it doesn't seem to matter much in practice. You can find a ton of videos with people testing the hotend with and without the screws, and the bottom line seems to be that they might make a tiny difference in heat transfer, but only if you completely disable the fan. edit- "REMOVE THESE SCREWS!!" tends to be one of those clickbaity things you see in Ender 3 videos that just really doesn't do anything at all Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 18:02
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Looking for some advice on pricing. My mega 8k is going to be here soon. What's the current opinion on resin pricing for giant prints? I know I'm going to be printing some crazy stuff for myself, but with this giant fucker I figure I could also make a couple bucks on the side. I don't think you're really going to get a definitive answer here. There are almost certainly plenty of other sellers on Etsy running similar prints, so your best bet is to look at their pricing and go from there. I do contract FDM prints for individual buyers so my situation is a little different, but I just have a strict policy of charging for "active" time. In my case, that usually means doing minor model edits and messing around in the slicer to get things printable, along with occasionally removing supports and doing some minor post-processing. Figure out how much time it's going to take you to do post-processing work (cleaning, curing, removing supports, etc.) and whatever you'd consider your minimum acceptable hourly rate. You should be able to compare that to other sellers to get a rough idea if you're under/overvaluing your time relative to the market. edit- I wouldn't worry too much about being an rear end in a top hat. Printing, selling, packing, shipping is a job and you're going to get burned out if you treat it like printing a few things for friends. You need to charge prices that make it monetarily worthwhile for you or you're going to end up really unhappy. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Oct 22, 2021 |
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Oct 22, 2021 15:28
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poll plane variant posted:I understand this, but how do you dispose of the gallons and gallons of contaminated alcohol? Small contract with the same companies a business would use? I never see pricing etc. discussed I've been resin printing for a little under a year and I've never disposed of any contaminated IPA. You can cure the stuff that's too dirty and it'll separate out, after which you can filter and reuse it. I've seen people say they can do this two or three times, but I have no idea what those people are doing wrong because I've been reusing the same gallon or so of IPA this whole time and it ends up pretty much crystal clear each time. Note that I'd still treat the used and filtered resin as hazardous, so if I did need to get rid of it I would cure and evaporate it. I'm sure I'm not getting everything out, even if it's clean enough to serve its purpose. That said, I'm really lazy and I like my clean-up process to only require a few minutes of active effort so I don't use Ambrose's method of skimming. I just have more containers than I need and I leave the dirty ones sitting on a windowsill for 1-2 weeks. That's enough time that the resin not only separates but settles down to the bottom in a gross mess that reminds me of the bacterial mats people use to make kombucha. I shake it every now and then if I remember so it doesn't stick to the sides of my mason jars. Then I just pour it through a gigantic funnel (a dollar store pour-over coffee thing) with a coffee filter and end up with clear IPA. Since I'm lazy I try not to pour the goop at the bottom into the funnel since that jams it up and makes the whole process take way too long. I just leave it at the bottom of the jar with maybe a few teaspoons of IPA, let that evaporate off, and then dump the cured resin in the trash. Like everyone else is saying, this sounds like a complicated mess, but it's really not at all. My workstation is a folding table with a <$1 tablecloth and some slap mats on it. I also have some really cheap plastic bins with lids that take waste like used coffee filters, paper towels, etc. My funnels and other dirty stuff also go in one of those bins. If I'm printing a lot, then every few days I'll seal the bins up and put them out into the sun so everything inside gets crusty and cured. The slap mats also go into the sun if they get dirty, mostly because I'm trying to minimize paper towel waste. My biggest concern is actually the amount of waste generated by used gloves. I've reduced that somewhat by having a few pairs of heavy-duty butyl gloves that I reuse when I'm 99.9% sure I won't be getting resin on my hands anyway. So I use those gloves when I'm adding resin, taking things off the build plate with tweezers, etc. I only use disposable gloves when I'll definitely be coming into contact with the resin, like removing supports or putting things in the curing station. Then those gloves go in the contaminated bin and get blasted with sunlight for a while before they go into the trash.
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Oct 27, 2021 16:25
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Post-processing small, high-detail models from an FDM printer is way, way more labor-intensive than any part of the cleaning/curing process with resin. Also requires a lot more pre-processing work in the slicer.
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Oct 27, 2021 16:35
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Pretty sure that if your use case is generating high-detail miniature prints that you're going to be spending a lot more in time/money/labor than just buying said miniatures from whoever originally created them. Man, there's just no way. A build plate full of high-quality 28mm miniatures is going to cost you maybe $0.60 in resin, and that's if you're not using the cheapest resin you can find. That's basically it for consumables. You're not going to "use up" any meaningful amount of IPA, and you might burn one pair of nitrile gloves in the process, so add some single-digit extra cents. It'll take you 5-10 minutes of actual work to clean, cure, and prep them, assuming you're doing so in a safe way using PPE. If you're someone who wants a lot of miniatures or custom miniatures for whatever reason, you can pay for the entire cost of a resin printer in like a week. A big use case seems to be people who play RPGs and want custom miniatures for each session. You'd spend hundreds of dollars per month doing that for weekly sessions versus maybe ten bucks and a couple of hours of time with a resin printer. None of this is meant to be a comment on resin printer safety or whether they're "good" for general users, but in terms of time/cost it's not even close. Keep in mind that a cheap resin printer, several bottles of resin, and plenty of gloves/IPA will cost you less than a full army of miniatures from certain companies. If your goal is to essentially pirate miniatures then yeah, a resin printer will do that while being cheap as gently caress in both labor and actual cost. edit- it actually sucks a lot that resin prints aren't easy to recommend without caveats because this is arguably the one hobby where 3d printing is legitimately revolutionary Ambrose Burnside posted:How do you keep your butyl gloves in good shape? I tried that but they become tacky and stay tacky forever no matter how much I clean them with alcohol, it makes handling stuff with any delicacy impossible so I've sidelined them. If contamination of resin and wash wasn't an issue I'd hit em with talcum powder or something, but alas Butyl gloves always get tacky and there's not much you can do about it, unfortunately. Like I said, I only use mine when there's very little chance of contacting resin directly so they're rarely contaminated. The few times I did get resin on them I just left them to cure for a bit and then cleaned it off. That said, I already had the gloves so it wasn't a big deal. I don't think the price of butyl would justify it normally, because I definitely can't use them for delicate work like pulling supports or basically anything where I'm actually handling the prints. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 02:27
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Even when things go smoothly, there's still the time it takes to clip items off a sprue, remove mold lines, or wait for glue/putty/etc. to set and dry. And sometimes you can't just leave it to go do something else, because you actually have to hold it in place until it's fully set (and hope you didn't get superglue on your fingers, or plastic cement on the part you're holding). Unless you're buying models for a game that are already preassembled, by and large the time cost for prepping and assembling a plastic/metal/cast resin kit can arguably be longer than cleaning a printed resin mini or model, removing supports, and curing it. Yeah, you can definitely tell when someone hasn't done much with miniatures when they start complaining about wasted time. Ten minutes with some gloves on to clean, cure, and remove supports for a pile of minis beats the hell out of an hour or more spent cutting bits from sprues and cleaning them up just so you can start assembling your models, all the while paying $50+ for the privilege.
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Oct 28, 2021 19:48
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Chainclaw posted:Stringing with some PLA. I'm mostly working around this by sticking to PLA that strings less, and avoiding models that are especially problematic. Consider investing in a cheap food dehydrator or a dedicated filament dryer, although they're essentially the exact same thing. Dry all your filament, even the brand new stuff. Almost every issue I've had with stringing and probably a huge portion of the issues I've had in general came back to lovely, wet filament. Even PLA. Even brand new PLA from extremely reputable companies in vacuum-sealed bags. I'm at the point where I won't start printing anything for a paying client unless I know I've dried the filament relatively recently, even though my house is at a constant 40-45% humidity. On the other hand, I find that most of the dirt-cheap filament I buy works pretty flawlessly if I throw it in my dehydrator first. edit- I'm currently printing some stuff for myself with an old roll of filament I had lying around that I didn't dry and it's stringing like crazy. It's hilarious because I've hardly seen a single string on any part that I've printed in months and my printers are going pretty much 24/7.
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Oct 30, 2021 05:18
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Roundboy posted:I recently bought a pack of big sealed plastic tubs to hold my filament, just with the silica packs sitting in it. The longer term plan is to print holders and feeders out of it, but how long do you leave a spool out on the holder before it's 'burned' and needs to be dried? It depends on your environment and the type of filament. PLA should actually take a long time under normal conditions, like definitely weeks or months. Nylon you might as well feed directly from a dryer box because it'll turn to poo poo in no time flat.
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Oct 30, 2021 05:35
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CommonShore posted:Please help me to troubleshoot my Ender 3 - looking for either mechanical or user failures here When you say you can't push filament through manually, do you mean that you're pushing filament in all the way from the extruder and through the PTFE tubing, or are you trying to feed filament directly into the hotend with the tubing removed? I'd try using your old PTFE tubing to check the heater block itself for jams. Remove the nozzle and the PTFE tubing and heat it up to at least 200C, then feed your old PTFE tubing all the way down from the top. You should be able to push it right through, hopefully with some gunky filament. The hotend is exceedingly simple, so there are really very few things that can go wrong. If you can't feed filament through it's gotta be a clog in there that you're just not getting it. If you can run your PTFE through the whole hotend cleanly, your problem has to be somewhere else. Edit- If you clean your hotend this way, I'd cut maybe a 10" piece of your old tubing to use. Long enough that you can get the bottom safely clear of the heater block so that you can pull it down and out without burning your fingers. Pulling it back out from the top will just end up leaving the filament behind. Also, if this is your problem, it's a good indication that you're not getting your PTFE tubing down far enough against the back of the nozzle. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 18:32
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 06:44 |
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how are you guys clogging your nozzles so much
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Oct 30, 2021 20:42
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