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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Upgraded my Voron 2.1 to 2.4, with more than a year of delay. Did some wiring overkill, because I wanted the goddamn wiring harness and the electronics decoupled. :v:

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
So I went to check out whether Meshmixer updated meanwhile, turns out it's kind of abandoned. Any good alternatives? I suppose Blender?

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Every 2-3 weeks I'll check out the Simplify3D forums for poo poo and giggles. The mods are still trying to keep up the appearance of a functioning company and ongoing development. Must still be pretty profitable to be doing that.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

insta posted:

Get a 1.8 kit once LDO comes out with that. The 1.8 needs more love.

(also who are you on the discord?)
I don't understand the appeal of the V0 in respect to its cost vs its tiny build plate.

--edit:
Also, you instazx2?

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
My V2.4 needs ~200W for printing ASA, keeping a 300x300mm bed at 105°C.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
That some auto-correct thing? There's no one with that name on the Discord. You mean that robertt with two T's guy?

--edit: Oh, RubianGamer.

IDK, I see he's from Belgium/Netherlands. I'm not sure why the admins are giving you poo poo in regards to him, but it might be an idea to point out that he's from #windmills_waffles, because these idiots are on thin ice due to the Klipper brigading/trolling during Tom Sanladerer's livestreams.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jul 25, 2021

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

mewse posted:

If you're seriously considering it I'd recommend Tom Sanladerer's live stream build. It will take hours + hours to watch but you will see the gotchas he ran into, and it is significantly more complex to build than the MK3.
Don't over-torque, tho.

This poo poo totally flew under my radar.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Finally finished printing the drat skirts et al.

Also color-corrected the picture a bit to make the pink look as eye-searing as it is in real life.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
OpenSCAD is something for simple procedural things. If you need to start addressing specific edges or vertices, be it for simple fillets or defining feature aligned planes, you're in a world of hurt. That is, if it's even possible to address specific part features in OpenSCAD. (Is it? I don't know.)

Do poo poo like this in OpenSCAD:

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Pro-tip for Klipper users, that use a NTC100K beta 3950 thermistor. Apparently the beta calculation generates values, while mathematically correct, that are bad in the regions where you might run your hotend at.

Over here I've apparently been printing at 260°C while 245°C was displayed.



This is a correct(er) thermistor definition:

code:
[thermistor NTC100K_b3950_3point]
temperature1: 20
resistance1: 125245
temperature2: 80
resistance2: 12540
temperature3: 220
resistance3: 396

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
It would be nice to have one for higher precision mechanical parts like RC gearboxes and diffs and poo poo like that. Assuming you can get resin with ABS, PC or Nylon like properties. Then again, if you could, I'd probably be printing a lot more things with SLA.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Get new linear bearings on AliExpress. LM8UU or whatever they're called. They're cheap as gently caress. Or if you're fancy, get those "drylin" bushings from Igus.

--edit: Oh wait, this is a completely new Prusa. I guess they gave you a dud. The drylin stuff seems to be a recommended upgrade, anyway.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Aug 1, 2021

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

ImplicitAssembler posted:

So, with a CoreXY, you could probably more than double your print speed. With that volume of prints, wouldn't that be worthwhile?
A lot of this seems to be in acceleration. Aren't there any Ender upgrades to make it more rigid?

A friend of mine got an Ender recently and was moaning about the slowness, despite running faster speeds in the slicer. He's been used to an old rear end Flashforge clone from China, running Sailfish (older version that only did GPX format), which doesn't know what acceleration is, they just shake like hell. I went to see, chuckle and note that the Ender runs at 500mm/s² from factory, which is pretty noticeable. What's that parameter that defines cornering speed? Junction deviation? I suppose upping that may help too, so that the accel/decel ramps will be a bit shorter, but also eventually introduces vibrations.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Aug 13, 2021

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Eh, 4th to 6th order acceleration, if you want to look really fancy.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Pentecoastal Elites posted:

I'm sure F360/Solidworks is better for 3D printing, but I'd rather not learn another piece of software. Is there anything significant in those that Blender doesn't have that would make it worth the investment?
Parametric modeling. Your models are pretty much visual instructions with user defined measurements. Allows you to reliably design around reference points, say holes for fasteners, and be able to adjust the model on the fly, by adjusting a bunch of measurements/parameters. Because things are basically non-destructive, it can rebuild the model based on some simple adjustments (assuming you didn't introduce some weird geometry).

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Onshape is neat, if you want to model some things on the go, since it runs in the browser. I'm doing things in it at work during rainy lunch breaks.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Javid posted:

I also do all my dumb bullshit in onshape; I WANT something that isn't dependent on my internet but I have been too lazy to learn a whole rear end new software, and onshape does actually work on all my pcs right now
Onshape is ex-Solidworks alumni, so I guess that would be the most approachable with least effort. I suppose you gotta download the demo version of it.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Nozzle X is a piece of crap. It's just tool steel with tungsten disulfide coating. Latter is supposed to be anti-stick, but got gunked up within three prints here. Just get a regular hardened steel nozzle, or one of the new fancy tungsten carbide ones (hard as gently caress, therefore relatively wear resistant, and way better thermal conductivity than the varying steel types).

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

SEKCobra posted:

Also, dealing with ABS looks like it's basically gonna be starting to print all over, I see a lot of failures and few successes in my future. I'd pay extra to get something as temperature stable as ABS, but printable like PLA.
eSun ABS+ is way easier to print. You still need to trap some of the heat and prevent drafts, but it's way less drama than regular ABS.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
That Prusa AFS the long-awaited Core XY of theirs? If so, that's sure a pretty penny more expensive than the rumored 1500 bux.

Also, anyone here also in the Voron VOC channels, who was causing the drama? I'm on a hiatus and missed that one.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

poll plane variant posted:

I wonder if something like a Dragon or Mosquito without the structural issues of a V6 could be fitted while we're at it.
The Dragon as shipped by TriangleLabs, and I guess their original designer Phaeton, ships with an optional throat that turns it pretty much into the E3Dv6 form factor.

--edit:

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

insta posted:

Anyone now looking for Voron 2.4's:

2) build the Trident instead

Nerobro posted:

II think I agree with this. The trident is what voron was meant to be.

snail posted:

As a general purpose printer, for sure. I love my 2.4, but if I were to do it again, hecks yes, a Trident.
gently caress no, low center of gravity is where it's at. And no leadscrew backlash.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
3D Printing Nerd just published a video recorded at Formnext, where some company has a huge 3D printer that does gel deposition with in-place UV curing. And due to that they appear to be able to print entirely supportless (within reason I guess, so long it's no impossible geometry kind of stuff).

I'm wondering if there's a middle-ground possible for FDM, having an easy/quick to melt filament that is UV curable, so that you can force it to harden at temperature. I mean, it'll make it harder on the printer, since everything needs to be UV proof, but still.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

goddamnedtwisto posted:

I'm sure with good-enough quality control of the filament and appropriately-slow printing you could do the same.
The UV assisted hardening/curing specifically to avoid slow printing.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Roundboy posted:

I gave up on klipper for the moment, and i am dealing with Jyers again, and with my current extraction steps (93) i was under extruding, and the calculations had me set it to 140.5 (!) A recheck shows 100mm requested is 100mm out, but this seems a bit absurd.
Sounds like BMG drive gearing directly mounted to the stepper motor, which would be 138.333.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
I find that CHT nozzle interesting.

While I don't really print at high-flow speeds (yet), I found what CNC Kitchen showed interesting, that the material starts building up internal stressed because of polymer chains something something, something which high-flow nozzles seem to reduce due to extended heating. Including that CHT, which is pretty compact, considering.

I wonder if it helps with printing by reducing said stresses, that also seem to cause warping and additional shrinkage.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
The trick probably is to use proper bearings.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
I just found out about the upcoming Revo from E3D.

Gimme now!

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

I am really eager to try out the quick changing nozzles. I basically never change nozzles on my v6 right now because I hate dealing with it.
Same. Only reason I print permanently with 0.4.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Vaporware posted:

Oh and I was gifted a CHT 0.4 nozzle for Christmas, but I'm scared to put it on without knowing how to use it. Even reading up on changing nozzles makes me nervous, lol.
I want one, but I preordered a Revo. So I sure hope Bondtech eventually figures out how to make one as a Revo nozzle.

--edit:
That said, ramping up speeds only does so much, if you're at low accelerations. I recently started to increase speeds, bumping perimeters by 33% and infill by 50% resulted in around 9-10% time savings, and I'm at 4500mm/s² (half of that on small features, a Klipper thing).

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 24, 2021

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Wanderless posted:

As soon as there's a Revo - compatible tungsten carbide nozzle I'll probably make the switch. (based on some of the reviews it sounds like that's in the works.) I use too many abrasive filaments on a regular basis to justify a system that doesn't have a high-wear nozzle but I imagine by the time they do exist there will be a solidly-refined bunch of Voron mounting setups from which to choose.
E3D has a successor to Nozzle X coming up, called "Obxidian", of which there'll also be a Revo version.

Also, there's a beta version of the new Stealthburner print head for the larger Vorons out. It includes a mount for the Revo micro.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

insta posted:

So how many active participants (all 10 of us) actually have Vorons? I've got 3, with 2 more in the pipeline.
I have one that mostly just prints upgrade parts. :haw:

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
So I printed the accented front of the Stealthburner. It makes me wish I didn't go for bright pink as an accent color, and instead should have gone for the blue-grayish ABS I had. The pink works as gimmick when it's only visible partially, like on the 2.4 stock just a third of the printhead. I can't be assed to replace all the other accented parts, tho, because it also involves releasing the belts. :saddowns:

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Or the filament has crud in it. I had some eSun ABS loving up nozzles left and right a long while ago and couldn't figure out why, until I took a closer look. There shouldn't be random black bits in yellow filament.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Step files would require slicer developers to adopt a geometric kernel for conversion into polys. And these are considered voodoo code.

--edit: Oh wait, Wikipedia says it's also triangle based. I guess I mixed it up with another actually parametric export format.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Dec 29, 2021

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
The guys over at TriangleLab also appear to be extremely pro Tetris players.

snail posted:

The 2.4 being as big as it is, does have a slight bi-metal effect on the X gantry and the linear rails. It's not enough to cause a problem most of the time, and it's trivially compensated for in software (we're talking 0.04mm in my case), but wow, this gold filament is just a pain to work with.

First layer mostly goes down nice with obvious too-high symptoms towards the center of the bed, the second layer has a tantrum about sticking anywhere, and then third and above works perfectly producing beautiful parts. I have to heat soak the machine for a good 20 to 30 minutes to ensure the full bowing has occurred on the X rail before I bed mesh it, as the gold ABS+ really is finicky about layer heights. A few hundredths of a mm either way, it just doesn't stick properly. No other filament I have behaves this way, but it has annoyed me enough to go source some titanium backers for the gantry rails, and I'll be doing the MGN12 conversion for the Stealthburner once it's out of beta.
When I upgraded my 2.1 to 2.4, I spent some money on a quality rail for X, which allowed me to go with a single front rail on X, and the bi-metallic effects from the 2.1 were quasi gone (I figure the dual rails would have had a similar effect via the bottom rail). Not sure why the Y axis barely contributed. Sure, the XY plane has like 0.3mm taco on parts spanning the whole width, but I can live with that. Better in XY than Z.

They went with MGN12, because they're cheaper than a quality MGN9.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Dec 30, 2021

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Commodore_64 posted:

Even quality rails can be total bananas. They are meant to be clamped against a precision shoulder to make them straight and meet their performance specs. Obviously you are not going to do this on a normal 3d printer, just realize there might be some bow built into the things.
The banana aspect was in this case less important than having lower tolerances everywhere and consequently higher preload on the sled. The dual rails on the Voron 2.4 was due to the lovely tolerances on China rails.

--edit:
Also, back when I've ordered my cheap rails from AliExpress, they just clustered them all together and rolled the bunch up on some cardboard and dispatched it like that. It's a surprise they didn't have any visible curvature.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Roundboy posted:

Switched to a 5,4 mesh to get a bit more resolution. And , wtf. This bed has not moved or the sheet.

Looks like the probe is getting close to something else metallic.

I had an issue like that when they changed the bed mesh coordinate stuff to properly consider probe offsets and I hadn't adapted the config. My probe came too close to the edge and it hosed the mesh via interpolation.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

Roundboy posted:

See my other post, my nozzle was crashing the bed before the probe was trigering.

But I am curious about the probe offset being handled, as i have had to explicitly offset things myself. My z home center is not 117.5, but +/- the probe amount to get the proper check ... and I think while my start mesh point of 15,15 is correct, i had to extend the size of my bed in klipper to account for my nozzle going off the end so my probe could poke the end n that side due to offset

details you can link me to?
In the past, you had to shift the bed meshing coordinates manually. Say if you wanted to probe between 50,50 and 250,250, you had to put 50,25 and 250,225 into the bed_mesh configuration section. Eventually it got updated and you can now directly define the coordinates and it does the proper math internally.

So it might be worthwhile to check said coordinates.

QGL however still needs manual offsets applied. For a while I didn't have them. While it generally worked, I always had a tilt in Y direction I never could explain where it came from (probe came too close to the edge), which got corrected away with bed mesh. Until I fixed that.

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Interesting. I didn't know about variable width. That'd certainly explain some artifacts that look like they were feature induced.

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