|
I just got a bunch of cheap replacement heater blocks after the first time I managed to entomb my hotend. The sock didn't help much anyway. e:and thermistors, it's not worth trying to save them
|
#
¿
May 24, 2022 08:18
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 19:15 |
|
|
sharkytm posted:TPU is a giant pain to print. It's not dimensionally stable, it lives to ooze and strings like crazy. It doesn't take supports well if at all. It also prints very very slowly. You might be better served making a mold and casting urethane. Your resin printer can make the molds. All of this is true, but if you have a direct drive extruder and you are willing to spend the time to tune a profile, it can print absolutely wonderfully. I found masking tape works best for bed adhesion. You really, really need to get the temp right though and yeah supports are not going to happen.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2022 17:58
|
|
|
Captain Kosmos posted:Mostly I want to decide myself how big the printer itself is. Thinking 30*30*30cm so it fits snugly into one of those Ikea shelves. Run into Voron almost imminently after writing that, but couldn't figure out can you build them custom-sized or what. At work, so don't really have time really go into it. Voron or Hypercube. Building a custom is usually done because you have a specific need in mind, or you want a really fast corexy. If you're just looking for something that will fit in a specific place, probably don't go this route. 30cm cubed is not much total volume for a printer, your bed size will be pretty limited. e: also i think you're going about this backward, it's infinitely cheaper to get a shelf that fits a printer than to build a printer that fits a shelf.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2022 15:16
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:Thanks. The Clear Flex 95 looks like it should work and I sent them a message to see what other similar options they might recommend. Not to pull you completely away from this route, because if you put the time and effort in you'll end up with a much better product, but the part you showed us can pretty easily be done with any decent direct drive fdm printer. Printing TPU has its own unique set of challenges but all of them are easier to overcome than the learning curve involved with molding parts. And if you're making a bunch of them, it's going to be more time efficient in the long run.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2022 15:24
|
|
|
Captain Kosmos posted:Having multiple kids and a small apartment doesn't leave much extra room. My work desk is the kitchen table, can't leave anything really out and feel that the 30cm cube is big as I can go, all the shelves are narrow so they don't eat much of the space. Why are you looking to upgrade? You're not going to fit anything better than one of those "kids mini printer" things in that space unless you build a $1000+ custom, which seems like probably overkill. If you need better prints, you're probably better off finding a makerspace or ordering them in the long run. A prusa mini is really the smallest "good" 3d printer I'd consider and it's too big. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jun 24, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2022 17:58
|
|
|
Captain Kosmos posted:Googled the manufacturer (Velleman), and other people have dropped the temp and lowered the flow. How much are you willing to spend? Engineering filaments generally require more than just a heated bed, especially if it's going in an engine compartment. Most also create toxic fumes, require a heated chamber and all-metal hotend, and require ventilation to the outside. Does your shelf system have a way to set up a fume hood or equivalent?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2022 18:36
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:I'd consider an all metal hotend if you're printing high temperature materials a lot. They're not too expensive and the bowden tube attaches at the top so it doesn't get hot. They have a metal heat break between the bowden tube and the back of the nozzle so the PTFE won't break down since it's cool enough past the heatsink on the hotend. PTFE overheating and breaking down isn't just bad for the printer longevity but also because it can cause toxic fumes. If you have any pets in the house, you really need to do this. PTFE fumes are very toxic, especially to birds and small animals.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2022 06:23
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news? Next level bad news, as has been pointed out. Is there a particular reason you're printing ABS by the way? The fumes won't kill you but they're not good for you either and they sure stink up the place. PETG is much more pleasant to print once you dial in the retraction and fan imo.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2022 15:43
|
|
|
big scary monsters posted:Speaking of, can anyone recommend a good systematic approach to reducing stringing with PETG? Like, a good test print and adjustments I can try to hone in on a less stringy configuration? A lot of the advice I've seen online is contradictory, so I guess it's something that varies a fair bit by filament and printer. I can mostly just clean up with a scalpel, sandpaper and a heat gun but it'd be great if I didn't have to. I never got great petg prints out of a bowden setup, but once I switched to a direct drive it was fine. You'll always have wispy strings but it's much more manageable.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2022 04:50
|
|
|
You can totally get good petg prints from a bowden, it just takes a lot of temp and retraction tuning.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2022 16:07
|
|
|
Sauer posted:Building a filament dryer out of a food dehydrator was the best thing I ever did for printing PETG. Bone dry PETG doesn't really string any worse than other filaments. You'll still get little fine wisps but those are easily removed with a heatgun. I have found that first layer height and flow rate needs to be near perfect to avoid material building up on the nozzle, burning, and eventually dripping off on to your work. Clear PETG is probably my favorite material next to ASA but a spot of burnt gunk in the middle of the part can really bum you out. I solved this to some extent with a polished stainless steel nozzle.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2022 19:42
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:You solved it by having a cold spot in your heat path? Or are you suggesting that the polished nozzle didn't pick up anything to turn into a burnt snot blob? The latter. I've found that stainless takes maybe another minute to heat up but otherwise behaves pretty much the same as brass, except it's much less sticky.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2022 02:58
|
|
|
poverty goat posted:Petg sticks really well on my anycubic's stick glass bed when it's very clean. Glue stick works too but I've learned that all I really need to do is clean it very well with alcohol when it starts loving up. Be careful with that. Petg sticks SO well to clean glass that a large print can take a chunk out of your bed as a result.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2022 16:11
|
|
|
Marsupial Ape posted:I'm going to be goofing around with printing speaker enclosures. Is there a smarter way to make the walls of the print denser than just setting infill to 97%? The idea being that speaker enclosures need to be dense for their acoustics to work, of course. Perimeters is the setting you're looking for. Prusaslicer will tell you the wall dimensions based on your line width when you pick how many you want.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2022 23:08
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:Yeah I just wish it was a little faster for the end or three pro, but I’m not gonna lie that demo cat may have taken six hours but it really looks like nice. Like honestly the best thing I’ve had printed yet by far. The demo gcode runs really slow, if you sliced that same model properly you could double that speed. e: oh yeah the first thing you'll wanna do to an ender 3 pro is replace the bed springs, I use silicone grommets instead. You'll also need a better extruder, the stock one inevitably cracks.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2022 16:50
|
|
|
Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks, I feel a bit better, part of the issue was the crappy magnetic cover was damaged from issues with calibrating Do you mean the PEI bed surface? That's pretty normal, I think everyone burns the poo poo out of them when they first learn to level a bed. Start with glass imo. Better yet, get something with a bed probe and pay strict attention to your starting z-offset. Also, if you do start again with glass, don't bother with glue unless you're printing PETG. Just make sure it's super clean, use dish soap.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2022 17:26
|
|
|
queeb posted:ah its just the color for bridge infill in prusaslicer. its just that its not bridging, its just trying to print over open air and it just... drops filament into the hole between supports lol. That's completely normal. After four layers or so it should be perfectly flat. You certainly can't just leave a single layer on top of infill and call it solid though.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2022 18:38
|
|
|
Vaporware posted:If you're thinking about how to actually make it, I'd make it D shaped so you have a flat side for your first layer. Yeah, trying to deal with supports with TPU is a generally bad plan. Whatever you design, make sure it doesn't need them. e: also this sounds like something you could whip up in tinkercad pretty quickly, which doesn't involve installing anything
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2022 04:32
|
|
|
Vaporware posted:Re: learning 3D modeling. There are 2 or so paths. Mudbox and the like are sculpting programs. Fusion is a CAD analog. Somewhere in between is the parametric stuff like openSCAD and tinkercad. I don't think I've ever seen someone put openSCAD and tinkercad in the same sentence like that lol. They're the literal opposite ends of the difficulty spectrum imo.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2022 14:16
|
|
|
Depends how you like to learn things but tinkercad is easy enough to grasp by just playing with it. Everything is a primitive, either a solid or a hole, and you merge and align these things together to make parts. It's very easy but a somewhat odd way to work and it will not really give you skills that transfer to other programs. I love it for whipping up quick stuff though, it makes it very easy to edit, remix and combine existing STLs.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2022 16:23
|
|
|
St. Blaize posted:I replaced my nozzle with a 0.6mm one and started printing some petg with a 0.3mm l;ayer height on my mini and it looks like this on the sides: https://imgur.com/a/ldI9yWy If you have seam: random that's normal, if not then not. Are you running octoprint or printing from the SD card? That looks like the nozzle is pausing for a split second which can be a gcode problem.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2022 18:06
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcMxEkVvIdE&t=186s mother of god
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2022 20:03
|
|
|
No amount of support is gonna make that model FDM printable as-is. You would think a website that sells "printable" STLs would like, slice the models to verify that.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2022 15:56
|
|
|
SubNat posted:My understanding is that the primary bonus/benefit from using Octoprint is being able to remotely manage the printer, in addition to setting up a camera + timelapse if you want to, but it doesn't actually do anything with print quality/speed, correct? Octoprint simply sends gcode commands to your printer, that's pretty much it. It's a web interface that will work with most firmwares. You can plug just about any printer into an octoprint server and it'll work. Klipper is an integrated system where the firmware on your printer is completely replaced and almost all control is handed over to the host computer. It's a completely different avenue entirely and requires deep knowledge of your printer and its hardware, and often requires some additional hardware parts to take full advantage of. If your printer did not come with Klipper, it is a significant project to convert it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2022 18:17
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:I will say, this is still not basic poo poo to a lot of people.\ exactly this. listen there's a thing going on here where people assume a knowledge level that's wholly inappropriate to the question being asked. op did not know that klipper replaces the firmware on your machine, you are high on your own farts if you think converting an ender 3 to klipper out of the box is a 20 minute job for someone with zero experience with this stuff. you literally can't even buy a raspberry pi anywhere at all right now, please goons im begging you
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2022 01:54
|
|
|
i run a direct drive ender 3 and it's fine? if i cared that much about keeping my x-axis level i'd do a corexz conversion instead.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2022 22:05
|
|
|
If all you need is Octoprint and you have an old android phone lying around, check out octo4a: https://github.com/feelfreelinux/octo4a I repurposed an old galaxy S6 and it works perfectly.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2022 17:04
|
|
|
Arachne is baller as gently caress and works especially well if you have pressure advance tuned. It basically eliminates gap fill. I'm thrilled it's in prusaslicer, I've been using the alpha since it was added and it just straight up makes faster, cleaner prints. e: just anecdotally, it allowed me to switch from a .4 to .6 nozzle with zero loss in detail for what i'm printing, which i could not say for the previous version. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jul 23, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2022 18:04
|
|
|
i would have called that title bullshit clickbait until i tried it. it's still a little wrong, it's just that you can get nearly .2 details with a .4 now if you need it, and .6 will work for everything else like .4 does except much faster
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2022 19:35
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:As I recall, the idea was that you apply some to a microfiber cloth (or a shop towel or something similar) and then buff it around on the FEP, with the end result being a FEP that is slick so that prints won't stick to it. Wouldn't the resin in the tank wash it off? Even if it didn't, wouldn't the first layer peel it off?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2022 15:25
|
|
|
Claes Oldenburger posted:Does anyone have any tips on getting better bridging with PETG on my Prusa Mk3S+? For the most part it prints beautfully but it does seem to have some issues with bridging and sagging. I'm using prusament PETG Print cooler, more fan. If you post a pic we could be more specific.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2022 00:18
|
|
|
Ygolonac posted:OK, next dumb question (image how many I'll have one the infernal machine is delivered!): the workbench (which I've need for quite some time) will also be home to various other tool-y stuff. If I don't want to continually coat the printer with dust and poo poo from other work, will covering it with a plastic trash bag be a valid (non-murder-by-static) solution? Trash bag should work fine, I wouldn't worry about static getting to anything. There are a bunch of cheap and DIY enclosure ideas since it's a generally good idea to enclose your printer if you can anyway. also i dunno about a printer for sausages but someone did make a printer out of sausages once https://all3dp.com/neon-brown-3d-printed-sausage-robot/
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2022 18:58
|
|
|
Tornhelm posted:99% of problems you have with them are brand agnostic, and they've all got similar print quality. So what's your problem with Creality then? I would get your argument if you were advocating something that works out of the box like a prusa but you seem content to recommend printers that come from brand new chinese startups with incomprehensible word salad names. They're better than they used to be but random chinese printers are still a minefield of dangerously stupid firmware, soldered crimp connectors and fake XT60s that'll burn your house down. The only difference with Creality is that there is a community of people who have wrestled the loving things into some degree of safety and reliability and will gladly post detailed instructions on how to do it. You don't get that with a TPUMBO Jizzblaster XL or whatever poo poo you ordered from aliexpress.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2022 15:14
|
|
|
poverty goat posted:There are a lot of good alternatives that aren't random chinese printers, though, and creality's recent reputation is poo poo in this regard as well. Look at similarly priced fdm printers from anycubic, artillery, elegoo. There are better printers with more features for the money, possibly with better first party support (i point to anycubic if this is a hangup for you), definitely all similar enough to the enders to piggyback onto that community if you need help. Sure, I agree with that. It remains silly to poo poo on Creality while shilling for "Fokoos" and "Kingroon", all I'm sayin.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2022 15:40
|
|
|
Rojo_Sombrero posted:Speaking about leveling. Is the self leveler for the Ender 3 worth it? Do you mean a bed touch sensor? Yes, but it won't level your bed for you.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2022 20:17
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:For ABL to work, you need to have a "pretty good bed level" to start with. And for something with a wafer thin rolled aluminum bed like an Ender, you're gonna be chasing stuff and hurting your head doing so. That's the entire reason to get one though. It doesn't fix your bed level, but it will correct for the fact that it's warped, and if you have an ender the bed is probably warped.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2022 20:22
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:This gets into pages of discussion. Yes, the bed is warped. Always is. Is it enough to make it so you can't print well? Probally not. The obsession over perfect first layers is misplaced. Okay? I'm sorry you had problems getting your bltouch working but mine was easy to set up and has been running fine for years. It was worth $30 to get perfect first layers every time without half an hour of bed tramming. I guess I just have a sick obsession. I don't think it's a coincidence that basically every printer made in the last 5 years has some sort of ABL, nor that most people complaining about them ITT can't get them working correctly with their printers. e: this should be obvious, but if you're making something where the top surface is the first layer, a perfect first layer absolutely does matter a lot, and a raft is not an option if you want a decent surface finish. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Aug 4, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2022 21:57
|
|
|
Javid posted:What aspect of the three minutes every other week i have to spend bed leveling my ender would be improved by a bltouch or whatever? Is it just a more precise readout of the gap I'm measuring visually? It probes the bed in a grid and uses that to calculate a mesh so the nozzle will be level with the bed even if it's warped. If you're already happy with your first layer, you probably won't get much out of it.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2022 23:27
|
|
|
No bed is perfectly flat, and .2mm variations matter when you're trying to get a nice surface finish and/or make a very accurate part. It also gives you a ton of leeway with manual tramming and removes the need to re-tram when v-roller wheels wear in or things shift around subtly. It's not a must-have, but it does save time and effort in the long run.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2022 00:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 19:15 |
|
|
this is genuinely the first time I've ever heard anyone argue that ABL makes you weak and your prints worse because they're in the "feel good zone" but i think it was a pretty good upgrade honestly.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2022 02:24
|
|