|
What a waste. So many good parts to salvage from that, especially the power supply.
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2021 00:09
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 18:16 |
|
|
The last two transition rolls I've tried to use were kind of terrible. One had wildly inconsistent diameter, to the point where the extruder motor was skipping intermittently as it tried to push through the fatter spots, and the other one was so damp right out of the box that I just shitcanned it. I've got like eight more of them laying around here too, and I'm kind of hesitant to use any of them now.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2021 21:33
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Is the Photon S any good? They're on sale for $180 right now. They're marginally better than the original Photon because they have a stronger UV light, so slightly faster printing, but they're still color LCD machines. There's nothing particularly wrong with them if you don't care how long stuff takes to print, and they do have that nice dual-Z rail for stability... but any more modern monochrome machine will give you the benefits of current tech with much faster print times and longer screen life. The price for the bundle seems a little tempting, but I honestly still don't think it's it's a good buy.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2021 11:18
|
|
|
I'm having a hard time pulling the right info up this morning, but from what I understand, upgrading an S model to monochrome basically entails gutting it and replacing the motherboard, screen, and touch screen. By the time you buy the printer and all the other parts I think you'd be well past the cost of just buying a mono machine from the start. For what it's worth, my Photon Mono prints beautifully and I've never had any wobble issues with it. I haven't heard a lot of complaints about any of the common machines in that regard, with the exception of Elegoo's new Mars 4K machine. A couple of reviewers have noted that their Z axis isn't terribly stable so that may be one to steer away from for now. I don't know if you're in the USA, but Anycubic seems to be running a sale on Amazon right now. $50 off the Photon Mono and $30 off the Wash and Cure. Those are prices I'd absolutely jump on if I didn't already own them.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2021 14:35
|
|
|
Congrats on the house!
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2021 21:45
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:So ancy to just deal with Vulcan instead of random companies from overseas
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2021 11:26
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:Cool, what's better about it? Durability, detail?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2021 14:30
|
|
|
Dominoes posted:you're buying a toy LOL I use an Ender 3 Pro in a production environment. It runs prototype/stand-in parts for custom avionics installations in aircraft, and is actually doing so right this very moment. There's nothing toy-like about it. It's a working machine and it never fails to deliver.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2021 14:19
|
|
|
mewse posted:What filament are you running? Also, just found out that the Ender 3 Pro is on sale at Newegg for $119 right now. I don't even have anywhere to put another one at the moment but I ordered one anyway. https://www.newegg.com/p/288-00B4-00039?Item=9SIAXGKDY94393&cm_sp=SH-_-626113-_-8-_-2-_-9SIAXGKDY94393-_-ender+3+pro-_-3%7Cender%7Cpro-_-1 Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Aug 11, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2021 16:02
|
|
|
I always offer up this suggestion when hair spray chat happens, and you're welcome to take it or leave it, but - don't shoot it directly at the machine. Spray a paper towel until it's damp and then wipe that on the bed, or take the build plate off and do it away from things you wouldn't want to get a bunch of overspray on. For PLA especially, it doesn't take much at all to be effective. All you need is enough to lightly and evenly wet the surface. I often see people recommending multiple applications to build up layers, and in my experience that's just not necessary for PLA. Multiple/thicker coats are a good idea for PETG as bear mentioned though, just to make sure you've got a nice interference layer between the print and the glass.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2021 12:05
|
|
|
I don't even like the BLTouch on my big printer, its "repeatability" is horribly unreliable. I'd much rather do a manual mesh routine, but I've been too lazy to mod in a Z limit switch and roll up some new firmware. I still can't even imagine voluntarily installing a probe on something the size of an Ender, you can tram one of those in a matter of seconds quite literally by eye. Just adjust the nozzle until you just barely don't see any light between it and the bed surface. I don't even use paper or anything on my smaller machines anymore.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
I guess I should have followed that with - I completely understand the "project car" thing. I have my working printers, and then I have another one off to the side with a whole bunch of both printed and purchased mods because I also like to tinker with things. Anything worthwhile like the common extruder mechanism/spring upgrade kit has been added to all of the Enders (and my Elegoo Neptune 2, which is more than superficially similar). Filament guides have been handy, as well as tool storage right on the printers. Other stuff that isn't all that great or just cosmetic hasn't made it to the others. There's no shame at all in having a test bed/project printer. 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2021 17:27
|
|
|
Yep, the cheap packages of nozzles from Amazon or Aliexpress (and those are all but guaranteed to be the same things) are pretty much all I've ever used. I've had exactly one nozzle out of untold numbers over the last few years that was actually bad, it somehow missed the drilling machine and was completely solid. I put new ones on all of my machines every month or two whether I think they need it or not, because they are cheap and plentiful and it's easy to do.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2021 17:46
|
|
|
Javid posted:Is the 8 or 13 buck stuff actually decent? I was advised early on to stick to a certain handful of brands, and while I've been perfectly happy with my $20 hatchbox PLA, even 13/kg would sure let me print more spaceships per effort of dealing with amazon I've actually been pretty impressed with the GST3D and IIID Max filament, which is all the same stuff to the best of my knowledge. At the very least they're sourcing their kind of janky looking spools from the same place. It's probably not going to win a Highest Quality Filament of the Year award, but every color I've tried so far has printed cleanly and reliably. Printing temps generally seem to support their PLA+ advertising, I'm running it between 215 and 225 on three different printers right now. Aside from the occasional stretch of slightly inconsistent pigmentation (I've seen this mostly in the greys), so far I'm fairly hard pressed to tell stuff printed with this apart from anything done with more expensive PLA's. I was fully prepared to just tip the whole box into the trash and write it off if necessary, but I've actually gone in the other direction and bought four of the 10-packs in the last two months.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 21, 2021 10:48
|
|
|
Ambrose, you might want to keep an eye on Anycubic's upcoming DLP machine. A friend of mine in the UK received a pre-release unit for review and it's pretty drat impressive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAf0mpF9Nww
|
|
#
¿
Aug 23, 2021 11:22
|
|
|
Just ran across this on Facebook - "For anyone interested, artnaturals.com has a 75% off their sanitizing stuff including 99% IPA. Use code SAFE40 at checkout." I just ordered four 4-liter packs of the 99% iso, only came to $26.98 even after paying the six bucks for shipping.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 23, 2021 12:15
|
|
|
A spare FEP sheet and some kapton tape makes an excellent cheap screen protector that's guaranteed to not filter any UV light. Barring that, even just some kapton tape around the border of the screen to seal the gap (if your printer didn't already come with tape or a vinyl gasket) goes a long way toward keeping resin from oozing inside the machine in the event of catastrophe. I also have never broken a FEP sheet, nor have I had to change one in any of my printers yet after quite a lot of use. A little bit of care and attention goes a long way. Accidents can obviously happen though, and I'm no more immune from that than anyone else, so my screens are still taped/gasketed just in case.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2021 11:20
|
|
|
I think that the amount of time a roll of PLA can stay out in the open without getting waterlogged depends largely on the universe's sense of humor and not much else. I've had some rolls go brittle inside of a week, and other stuff has sat out for months with no issues. I did recently pick up one of Sovol's little two-roll dryer boxes though, and while it's not like I didn't believe in the process or anything, seeing a spool actually come back from the dead is kind of magical. Should have bought or rigged something up years ago.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2021 15:34
|
|
|
I'll second the IIID Max/GST3D filament, it's astonishingly good stuff for what it costs. I've ordered 30 rolls of it in the last couple of months, and have completely run through 6 or 7 of those now with absolutely zero issues. I'll also second the Jessie PLA - I had some issues with a couple of their discounted "transition" rolls, but the regular stuff (which apparently has been updated to a better mfg process now?) has always been stellar.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2021 17:27
|
|
|
NofrikinfuN posted:Ohhh is it specifically nitrile gloves then? Just as a general thought, it's entirely possible to post-process resin prints without coating your hands, you, and the rest of the room in uncured material. Even with prints off my bigger machine, I've got my process down to where I only wear a glove on my dominant hand (that's actually likely to touch the uncured model), and my skin is pretty sensitive to the resins. A little bit of care, a little bit of thought put into your work flow, and some silicone salad tongs to help move stuff around all go a long way toward not making a huge mess or creating undue health hazards.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2021 11:13
|
|
|
I've seen it, and his carelessness with letting resin drip everywhere and splashing the isopropyl out of the container when he's washing the model is absolutely cringeworthy. There's no reason to be that sloppy. I've never had any trouble keeping resin off things it wasn't supposed to be on, because I pay attention to what I'm doing and take care to not make a great big mess. It's not hard. More often than not, my prints go through the entire cleaning and curing process without having to touch them with my hands at all.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2021 11:42
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I do all the orientation and support generation in PrusaSlicer because I like its interface, export the whole plate with supports as an STL, and use Photon Workshop to slice that and format it for the printer (which takes like 10 seconds because the only settings left to mess with are layer time and pull height). Not exactly drag-and-drop, but UVtools will open and convert an awful lot of formats. I've never even bothered to learn how to use any of the other functions, but I understand it's a pretty powerful little program for people who want/need whatever else it does, and it's under constant development. https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2021 01:00
|
|
|
Unless your bed has visible ripples in it or something, a 15 x 15 mesh is ludicrously overkill. I probe 5 x 5 on a 350mm bed.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2021 22:31
|
|
|
If I had a bed that actually required that amount of measuring and compensation, even once, it would have immediately gone in the trash.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2021 22:55
|
|
|
NofrikinfuN posted:Thanks, that makes me feel a bit better about the idea of picking one up for the larger pieces.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2021 17:16
|
|
|
Hindsight: drunk post.
Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Oct 22, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2021 03:55
|
|
|
BMan posted:so this longer thing, not looking good huh Like "poo poo, I got robbed" bad or just "This is probably a tinkerer's machine at best" bad? I can work with the latter (up to a point, not quite as patient as I used to be) and am kind of expecting it at that price. Mine's due in early next week.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2021 01:06
|
|
|
180 is quite cool for PLA in general, and in my experience, Jessie in particular likes to run a little bit hot in all of my machines (like 210-215). That's obviously not a hard and fast rule to follow, but I'd bump yours up to at least 200 and maybe increase the infill density a bit. Those rough top surfaces look like the machine's working just a bit too hard to extrude smoothly.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2021 18:18
|
|
|
Aurium posted:If you use cura you I think you still need a plugin. They've finally added it as a standard setting somewhat recently. I first noticed it in 4.9, but it may have been there before that. It's under the "Build Plate Adhesion" heading.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 25, 2021 21:58
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:I printed a benchy on the Longer LK1 today and it seems OK, although the flavor of Marlin they put on there seems to have a problem with M1/M0 gcodes, I found that out trying to use my leveling script which causes the controller to crash. I finally got mine put together last night and ran a Benchy too. It's not perfect, seems to be some salmon skinning on the hull, but I'll work up some Cura settings for it and see how it fares. Overall, for $160 it seems to have some potential. The hardware's decent enough that I wouldn't mind revamping the electronics and throwing a silent board into it. The cheap wire loom on everything can gently caress right off though, that's getting removed today.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2021 14:15
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Are cold temperatures really a problem for resin printers? I was just UV welding two cured pieces together and didn't realise some uncured resin had dripped on my finger, and the heat of it curing was uncomfortably hot. If that kind of heat is being generated inside the machine as it prints the resin won't stay cold for very long. A printer can't really be relied on by itself to maintain an adequate internal temperature if the work space is too cool, and the performance of most resins starts to decline pretty quickly below about 70F. Lots of people install chamber heaters to make sure they're not just printing goo when the weather turns. One of the more popular heater designs originated in the Photon community, and apparently can be adapted to most printers with some futzing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3442165
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2021 01:06
|
|
|
Sockser posted:Note that I did not mention: I was using transparent resin Did you slice the model yourself, or are you just using the pre-supplied test file? Whatever comes on the USB stick is usually sliced with settings for resin that the printer may or may not come with. The original Anycubic Photon's test cube file, for example, was specifically pre-sliced for the transparent green resin that was included with the machines for a while. People had all sorts of trouble later on when they stopped supplying that specific resin, and the settings weren't necessarily good anymore for whatever material people had bought. Exposure times have a lot less to do with resin's opacity than they do with the photoinitiators that are used in a specific formula, so don't necessarily assume that a clear or translucent material will take more or less time than something more opaque. The best thing to do, honestly, is to look up how to do a resin exposure test for your printer so you can get a better idea of what settings will work with your combination of hardware and material. Every resin is different, and sometimes even different batches of the same color and brand can need slightly different exposure times.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2021 16:14
|
|
|
There are some huge printer deals on AliEpxress right now for their 11/11 sale. I just picked up another Sovol SV03 for just about 50% off after coupons and discount codes. Looks like Elegoo and Anycubic have some pretty steep discounts too.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2021 14:50
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Worth trying to temperature control a resin printing enclosure? It really is, if the temperature is apt to go below ~65-70F for any length of time. Most resins' performance starts to fall off pretty rapidly once you get below that, and some products like Siraya stuff prefer it even warmer. If you have the means to control the environment then it'd likely be pretty helpful in the long run.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2021 12:57
|
|
|
Big printers can always print small things, but small printers often have to print big things in pieces. I have one resin machine (Epax E10) that's about equivalent to the Saturn in size that I use to print larger movie prop and costume pieces, and my more standard sized Photon Mono is usually what's pooping out the smaller detail parts and also miniatures for my gaming friends. The Epax could easily fill both roles if it were the only one I had, but it's nice to have the increased capability. So the real answer is to buy more printers.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2021 00:20
|
|
|
Deviant posted:i have a resin bottle i saved labeled "BASTARD RESIN" that all the dregs go into. either it prints or it doesnt, and i dont complain when it doesnt print
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2021 00:17
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:I think i know the answer to this, but double checking. I was taking apart the hotblock and got the heater off, but messed up the thermistor wiring, no big deal since i have extra. Sounds like you're OK with it. The heat break and the nozzle have to make full contact with each other inside the heater block, so you run the break down about as far as it can go without actually getting the narrower part down inside the block, and then thread the nozzle up to meet it. The shoulder of the nozzle shouldn't hit the heater block, you should still be able to see at least one or two threads on it after it's tightened down. If it looks like threading the heat break down that far might be a bit too far, then you can absolutely run it back out a turn or two, as long as the nozzle doesn't bottom out against the block.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2021 00:03
|
|
|
Deviant posted:Is there a good raspberry pi 4 kit to set up octoprint on? Save yourself ~50 bucks and get a 3B+ kit. The 4 is kind of overkill if all you're running is Octoprint.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2021 18:15
|
|
|
Deviant posted:the 3B+s seem to only have 1gb of ram available, which isn't enough for Octoprint? I thought I read they recommend at least 2gb. I still have one machine hooked up to a 2B, because it's always worked fine and the slight lag in the UI compared to my 3B+'s isn't even remotely worth spending money on to "fix". People have been running Octoprint for years longer than the Pi 4 has existed.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2021 21:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 9, 2024 18:16 |
|
|
DarkAvenger211 posted:And finally, I've got bag of bits that came with everything else and I have absolutely no idea where or if they might be used:
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2021 00:32
|
|
