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Hadlock posted:Swapped external perimeter from 0.45mm to 0.90, seems to register differently in prusaslicer, even in vase mode Wouldn’t you need to increase speed in your slicer settings as well?
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Jul 26, 2021 01:44
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time to kick off another 6 hour test print
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Hadlock posted:here is the wavey output of using 0.45 external perimeter width. There are about 4 "waves" in the surface, looks like it got left in a car in the arizona heat all day, or hit with a hair dryer for too long How fast you can go is going to be limited by your hot end, something like a volcano should be able to go faster as it has a larger melt zone and can therefore supply more molten plastic (but there are quality implications to printing faster which may mean it doesn’t suit your application, I’m just talking in terms of technical limitations). I don’t know if maybe your slicer is limiting your speeds based on something it knows about your hot end or something, unless you’ve changed the wrong speed setting?
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Jul 26, 2021 04:47
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Deviant posted:Printed Solid's CS team has been stonewalling me on trying to exchange this roll of PLA I think is bad. Have you dried the filament?
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Jul 29, 2021 05:30
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Deviant posted:The roll is basically brand new and it's been lifting on prints since I opened it. Could still be worth drying to see if it makes any difference? Maybe they had a humidity control issue during productions/packing or something? 🤷🏻♂️
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Jul 29, 2021 12:12
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Hamburlgar posted:Never mind my previous thoughts about getting different kinds of printers... Holy poo poo, that’s a lot of long prints. Are these parts which would lend themselves to being reproduced via silicon moulds and pouring resin reproductions? Because if so it seems like you could produce them a lot quicker once the initial work of making moulds is done, and the finished part quality could be much higher if you make a master example with the layer lines filled/sanded.
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Aug 14, 2021 01:05
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:As mentioned, it's a Kickstarter printer, the upside being the super early bird ones are like 600 bucks. The downside being if they fail or just decide to take everyone's cash and haul it, there's nothing you can really do. I'm not a fan of established companies using it as a platform. Yeah, I'm with Makers Muse on this, Kickstarter isn't for established companies adding new items to their line. Bankroll that poo poo yourselves and leave KS for operations trying to get their start, FFS.
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Aug 17, 2021 12:47
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Doctor Zero posted:The Creality CR-6 was an appropriate KS. They didn't have the thing finished, and they didn't know how much of a demand there would be for it. But seeing how THAT turned out, I still agree. If we're talking something that's more or less the first of its kind then maybe KS is still appropriate. But even then, for an established company I think taking a paid (refundable) deposit as an expression of interest should probably be workable as a way to gain meaningful demand data?
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Aug 17, 2021 13:18
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Martytoof posted:Purely anecdotal on my part. Corroborated by one other poster but it could still just be a fluke. If it’s working for you then I wouldn’t worry in the least. Obvious question but have you done an exposure calibration print for the resin which is failing?
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Aug 28, 2021 17:01
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Martytoof posted:I tried, but ironically the print failed and stuck to the FEP instead. Fair enough!
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Aug 29, 2021 02:51
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I should add in the interest of fairness, though, that I'm strictly a hobbyist printing miniatures for fun, so I'm not running the printers 24/7. I can see where that cost would definitely add up for someone who's running an Etsy store or something similar for products they sell, or some other business use situation where resin printing is an everyday task. In the business context the possibility of irreversible resin sensitivity should be of even more concern. You’re basically talking about an increased cost of doing business in the form of more gloves vs not being able to do business anymore because you’re sensitive to the stuff your products are made out of. Still seems an easy equation. 🤷🏻♂️
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Sep 15, 2021 15:30
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I saw a video on YouTube the other day of something a guy printed in his resin printer, where shows himself handling the part straight out of the vat with no gloves on, and showed the part sitting in his bathroom sink for support material removal (pre-cure IIRC), so I’m guessing he probably washes the parts in there too. Several comments along the lines of “wow this is awesome, I think I might get a 3D printer now”, so I suspect there’s going to be plenty of people seeing poo poo like this and getting into the hobby with no idea of what they’re dealing with, toxicity-wise. 🤦🏻♂️
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Oct 28, 2021 00:11
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Check your YouTube history and share this video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PqnuOhwIs4o 5:28 As you’ll see, he’s wearing one glove when removing supports, so I guess he’ll just get the resin sensitivity in one hand. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 02:44
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Hadlock posted:You're welcome to come over to my house and try and reason with my 3 year old nephew Could you print a replacement base which doesn’t have the motors and gears and is just plain axles so he can push to his heart’s content?
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Oct 28, 2021 06:33
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Unrelated question: should I have de-greased and repacked my bearings when I built the MK3S+? This seems like one of those divisive topics from the info I can find on the internet, but a lot of people with some CNC experience like to repack the bearings with white lithium grease. Other sources, including the official assembly manual say that the latest version uses Misumi bearings and that no additional lubrication is necessary. There will be people who are much more qualified to answer than I am, but given that Prusa is regarded as the gold standard in it-just-worksness in the consumer 3D printing sphere, it seems fair to assume that if their manual says it’s not necessary, you should be fine not to do it. 🤷🏻♂️
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Oct 31, 2021 13:52
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Jaded Burnout posted:Here's the base of the piece which failed prior to my first post, after removing the brim (click for big): Looks to me that the nozzle is too far away from the bed, or you’re underextruding. EDIT: if it were me I’d get the nozzle closer to the bed first. I’ve seen similar issues before and it was purely distance to the bed, for me. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Nov 11, 2021 |
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Nov 11, 2021 13:51
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Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results! https://youtu.be/OziH3Y2ySNo He was deleting comments from anyone pointing out how dangerous this is, and now has that single comment on the video which is is pretty laughable and does not in any way convey the danger of what he’s showing in the vid.
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Dec 9, 2021 07:41
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InternetJunky posted:Failing that there's always that guy who ran resin through his airbrush to smooth out his prints. LOL, no, I posted that here because it’s loving insane, don’t do this.
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Dec 29, 2021 21:19
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Aren't most slicer software inputs in seconds rather than percent of exposure? This would be essentially a brightness setting on the screen or something similar, I think?
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Jan 11, 2022 22:43
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Got motivated to fire up the printer last night and continue working on a project, nozzle is solidly blocked. WTF? It was running fine when I last printed on it, it sure why it would clog between the last print a month ago and now? I need to invest in appropriately-sized bits of metal to poke into nozzles because one of my good hardened steel nozzles had to be put aside months ago due to a clog also and I haven’t restored it yet.
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Jan 13, 2022 22:52
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SEKCobra posted:Is there some trick to prevent a corner from curling up? I usually just fix it by printing a brim, but the part I'm printing right now doesn't really work too much with a brim. Is there something I can tune to prevent one specific corner rising every time? Make sure you have eliminated all draughts and if in doubt, put a box around the printer or something. Especially if your ambient air temp is getting below low 20s Celsius. Also hooray for 1.5mm Allen keys. Heated my hot end up, put the key down its throat, couple of good pushes/jiggles, booom. Constipation resolved. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Jan 14, 2022 |
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Jan 14, 2022 09:15
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Rexxed posted:Devon from Maker's Muse was on the Safety Third podcast with William Osman, The Backyard Scientist, and Allen Pan (Sufficiently Advanced) this week Maker’s Muse is Angus (though his surname is Devison IIRC), I think a Devon runs a different channel, though the name escapes me..
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Jan 15, 2022 01:02
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Anybody else remember when Barnacles was the only 3d printing Youtube person and how loving hilariously bad every 3d printer was back then? Is this him? https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEbaEyM-xt9kyjSnn6-ps03BSohdjNH1M
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Jan 15, 2022 01:08
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Opinionated posted:Devon is from Make Anything That’s the one, thanks!
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Jan 15, 2022 04:29
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Opinionated posted:I just want a second one to toy with mostly. What is going on here? What’s the blue part?
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Jan 23, 2022 06:37
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks everyone for all the fantastic advice. I think based on everything, especially safety, I’m going to pass on a 3D printer for now. I was aware of the issues safety wise with resin, but I’d rather not try and do budget safety protocols or worry about the wash water spilling. I was planning it for my own personal use and just to make things for the kids, but the more I think about it they’re gonna want to use it I’m not going to feel comfortable with them even hanging around while printing or being set up. I really appreciate so much quality info though from everyone, especially about the important of a cure and wash set. Not to mention with the talk of prints bursting open sometime down the line due to uncured resin inside slowly dissolving/degrading the print, I wouldn’t give resin prints to kids either.
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Jan 26, 2022 00:16
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What are the Fusion360 features which were removed that are so helpful in the makerspace arena? Are we just talking document limits? Did they just do another round of feature reductions? I’m having trouble finding anything online since the changes made announced in 2020.
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Jan 29, 2022 01:01
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Javid posted:Must be this, which caused me to immediately delete this crap and resume using onshape: I, a hobbyist, have found that limitation to be completely trivial. Like others have said, it’s a couple of clicks and 5 seconds to switch a file from one status to the other. I get for a maker space where maybe there are a bunch of people using the same piece of software this could present issues but even then, doesn’t seem hard to work around unless there’s something I’m not considering. CAM stuff, export formats the mesh editing limitations I could see biting some people more, but I saw a vid the other day showing three separate mesh editing workflows, one of which was for the free version, so it seems there are still ways to get that done, they just may not be as straightforward. I guess their dilemma is that if they already suspect there are people who should be paying who aren’t, then if they include more features at a hobby level with a lower price, the people who were exploiting it before may just pay the hobby price, use it commercially, and feel absolved because they’re paying? Or maybe they’re an evil corporation, I dunno. For me thus far, F360 has been great and it’s what I’d recommend to any other newcomer to the area. 🤷🏻♂️
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Jan 29, 2022 08:34
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Acid Reflux posted:They kind of are. F360 used to have just a few advanced features hidden behind the paywall back in the early days, but they've been methodically taking functionality out of the free version after people got themselves hooked into the whole ecosystem (much as everyone had been predicting they'd eventually do) and charging more for less as time passes. It's still probably the best CAD deal running out there, but compared to what it started out as, it's kind of a joke now. I've seen people calling patches "downdates" because they're often used to move popular features to the paid model rather than adding any actual value. No such thing as a free lunch, and all. Like you say, the userbase saw it coming from a mile away, so it's not like anyone can be particularly surprised. Not to say it doesn't suck if you're attached to a feature which is moved behind the paywall, but it seems to me it was always just a matter of time as the product was developed and became more mature and fuller featured.
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Jan 29, 2022 14:12
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What are my odds of getting a heating pad off my stock bed and being able to apply it to a new bed with the adhesive still working well? Unsure how tolerant the adhesives are to removal and reapplication. I’ve got a Fulament aluminium bed and flexible steel/PEI sheet coming soon and while I do have a new heating pad, if I can safely continue using the current one, that’s fine with me.
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Feb 17, 2022 01:36
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Hypnolobster posted:The adhesive and really really perfect contact with the bed is what keeps the heater from getting hot spots and burning out (or catching on fire if things go very badly), and the kind of peeling needed to remove it would probably kill it anyways. New is the only way to go. Roger that. Figured as much, will chuck the new one on when the time comes.
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Feb 17, 2022 04:07
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Doctor Zero posted:This Yeah WTF
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Jun 9, 2022 02:30
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cruft posted:I managed to get this Amazon Basics PLA to stick to the plate long enough to print all 10 layers of one 22mm piece. So with the "print one thing at a time" setting, I can do 10 tokens per print! To be honest, this just seems like a bad use case for 3D printing. Like you said earlier, you could have just bought clay chips and been done with it. They’ll have a better feel and sound than 3D printed chips to boot, I suspect. 🤷🏻♂️ What you’re going through sounds like the 3D printing equivalent of having your balls stepped on by someone in high heels.
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Sep 1, 2022 09:59
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Marshal Prolapse posted:No I haven’t tried a negative one or if I can but I’ll check it out. I will say benchy did work at .10 fwiw. Post a photo of the bottom of that benchy please.
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Oct 10, 2022 01:30
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks for helping me, despite me being an idiot. We were all noobs once. Some printers are easier than others to contend with. Stick at it and the thread will get you dialled in soon enough.
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Oct 10, 2022 06:54
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Deviant posted:I think my z-offset might be a tad low but it's basically a spot on print, unless anyone has any feedback. Sitting at -.725, thinking of backing off a tad. You’ve got a small amount of warping visible on the underside there too, you can see where the print lifted off the bed. Marshal Prolapse posted:So apparently if you get an open box…just replace the nozzle, don’t even bother cleaning it or anything. Just nuke it from orbit. I have found that changing nozzles has helped with adhesion a couple of times in the past, I’m guessing due to something partially obstructing the bore and causing the filament to curve slightly as it exits. I don’t have the requisite acupuncture needed required to try to clear them out. Most of the time though, it’s been distance from the bed which has been the issue. As Deviant has already mentioned, you look a touch high off the bed on that second benchy, there is no squish on those first layer tracks. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Oct 11, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 05:40
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Deviant posted:Yup, i'm definitely getting some warping. Ambient temp increase? The only times I’ve had persistent warping issues (albeit with PETG), ambient temp was too low.
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Oct 15, 2022 00:19
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Deviant posted:Ugh, still seeing warping on flat based parts. Is this the impetus i need to buy a PEI Satin sheet? Was this with higher ambient temps than usual? Are there any draughts in the room you print in? IMO you could get away with getting slightly closer to the bed. Like, that first layer looks good, but in the quest for optimum adhesion with your current bed, I'd try that and see what you get.
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Oct 16, 2022 04:08
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Deviant posted:
Yay, nice.
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Oct 18, 2022 01:05
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bird food bathtub posted:Do people do that? I would not be comfortable with any kind of 3d printed part being used for intimate activities. Cleanliness is a *huge* thing in that area. As already mentioned, nobody there is advocating using prints directly, it’s typically designing for casting in silicone or making things that aren’t inserted like rings/cages and the like. Billie Ruben has demonstrated a nice technique for smoothing negative moulds for casting without sanding by pouring molten beeswax into them and then tipping it out.
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Oct 29, 2022 23:53
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queeb posted:here's my paintjob, pls be kind I am so conditioned by the media coming out of Ukraine this year that I’m expecting a missile to hit these buildings at any moment
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Nov 20, 2022 00:22
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