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Dipping my toes back into printing for the first time in like 3 years. I've got some old rolls of PLA and PETG, still vacuum sealed, stored inside in climate controlled, typically low humidity, away from light. Would they still be good? Or is it too risky to use them? On the one hand I dislike waste, on the other hand this is for work and it's not my money, but screwing up a machine would be a headache I don't need. For what it's worth the PLA is not brittle at all.
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Sep 22, 2022 02:37
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I used Simplify3D for several years but it seems to be pretty dead now, I don't think there's been an update since I last used it. Is there a slicer that I should migrate to? I'm using an old Lulzbot Taz 5.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:38
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NewFatMike posted:Why are people asking about buying advice for the Prusa XL compared to multiple Ender 3s? They’re not serving the same needs. Is there any information on the tool heads that the XL will accept, like will you be able to have different size diameters? I'm not interested in printing with multiple materials but I'd like the convenience of having different diameters available without having to physically swap toolheads out depending on whether I'm printing a large or small part that day.
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Sep 29, 2022 01:49
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I got a little intrigued with the recent talk about the Neptune 3, since it's so cheap, but I searched for reviews and one of the first ones says it's bad at printing PLA, especially for objects that occupy most of the print area. I frequently print large objects with PLA. Can anyone with Neptune experience say whether this review is accurate or not? I'd love to add a second printer for cheap but not if every PLA print I try curls off the bed.
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Sep 30, 2022 19:54
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Okay thanks, good to know. I've always felt like PLA was really easy to print so it was surprising to see a review saying ABS was simple and PLA was hard.
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Sep 30, 2022 23:27
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I've got a Neptune 3 on the way, and was just curious if there were any must-do tweaks specific to this printer that I should know about. I remember last time I checked the thread that updating the firmware was critical. Any printer profiles out there that folks would recommend? Also, any estimates out there on how much time will setup to print probably take? I'm a little busy with work so it would be nice to plan ahead the best time to do allocated to this.
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Oct 26, 2022 17:28
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Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it.Doctor Zero posted:I used the firmware linked here: https://github.com/NARUTOfzr/Neptune_3. It is a little janky, so if it didn't look like it worked, just do it again. It should work the 2nd time. I updated the LCD firmware first (take it apart and there's a micro SD card in there), and then did the machine firmware (normal micro SD) So is updating firmware just a matter of taking the micro SD cards to a computer with an SD reader and overwriting the files? My last printer I did it through their proprietary Cura build.
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Oct 26, 2022 20:15
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Doctor Zero posted:Just to be safe I’d delete everything else off it first, but otherwise yes. Ok, thanks. One other question for the Neptune. On my other printer, I have a custom spool holder that I got off Thingiverse or wherever that rises above the printer, so the filament just feeds down into the extruder. Are there any 3rd party spool holder solutions that are particularly good for the Neptune?
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Oct 26, 2022 23:12
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Sagebrush posted:"3d printable pumpkin box" That's better than the digital anatomy learning site I demo'd once, they had a section for downloadable 3D printable models, and everything in it was obscenely bad. Meshes weren't watertight, they had individual polygons just floating in space, it was atrocious.
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Oct 27, 2022 20:31
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cruft posted:The Neptune 3 is a cool printer, too. It's like an Ender 3 v2 plus the dozens of dollars worth of upgrades I've done to mine since I got it. Do Neptunes have a reputation for catching on fire?
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Oct 28, 2022 20:33
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I'm doing the first autolevel of the bed on this Neptune 3, the bed heat up but the nozzle did not; the display does not indicate a target temp for the nozzle- it's at 23/0 for temp on the display. I was under the impression that the nozzle should be hot for this step? I found where I can set the leveling temp in the display, should I set it to the 140C that the manual says and run it again? Okay so the filament will not pass through the filament sensor box. It goes in the first opening, and then it feels like I'm pushing it against a brick wall. It just will not continue moving forward. Is there a trick to this? The guy in the installation video just snakes it right through with no effort. Listerine fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Oct 29, 2022 |
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Oct 29, 2022 22:34
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Does anyone know what the deal is with Polymaker's Polyterra PLA, like how is it different from regular PLA?
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Oct 31, 2022 03:26
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I'm having trouble getting a good first layer on this Neptune 3, but I'm not sure what the issue is so I don't know what to do to fix it. Any suggestions for where to start?
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Oct 31, 2022 19:33
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Thanks for all the replies.BadMedic posted:Same with the X-Axis, you can use this (sorta lovely tbh) guide to help you with that. https://old.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune3/comments/wekdax/leveling_your_xaxis_the_abba_beatles_way/ I'm pretty sure this was an issue, the arm was not as level as it could be. How do you know if the the the eccentric nuts are too tight for the motors? I have them tightened so that the arm is moving up and down, but I have no idea if it's straining the motors, other than that I don't hear anything.
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Nov 1, 2022 01:30
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RoboJoe posted:The only minor issue I have is on one side of the frame the bolts keep spinning instead of going completely tight, but it seems perfectly stable and they're holding it fine so I guess that's nothing to worry about. I just got mine set up and I had the same issue, so I'm guessing they changed some hardware on that side. One thing that was a real pain for me though was getting the x-axis level and elevating without one side moving faster than the other, so double check that before you start doing any real printing or else your first layers may be garbage. Watch the arm while you manually move it up and down, and watch it during a bed level, and make sure that both sides move in unison without one side sticking. I'm also going to recommend Prusaslicer, they have a profile for the Neptune and it's a breeze to use.
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Nov 2, 2022 15:35
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Ygolonac posted:Which bolts aren't going full tight? From the assembly process, or the ones on the wheels under the bed and on the gantry arm? The wheel ones are eccentric nuts that just need to be tightened enough to keep the bed/print-head assembly from wobbling. The bolts on the underside, when you screw in the vertical pieces of the frame (the gantry?) to the base in step 1 of the instructions. On one side the bolts screw tight between the base and the vertical arm; on the other they screw in but they never tighten and stop moving. I'm not sure what's receiving the screws, but both of them on that side are like that, so I figured it was by design as the frame was secure and the angles weren't off.
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Nov 2, 2022 17:54
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BadMedic posted:I'm 90% sure you have it misaligned then, cause with the way the metal is hollow you can slot the screws in 'beside' the holes instead of actually in them. Oooohhhh I think you're right. Better fix that then.
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Nov 2, 2022 18:33
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On the topic of printer profiles, are there profiles out there for the Sovol SV06? I was tempted to grab one of those two when it was mentioned a few pages back, but I don't see a profile in Prusaslicer and don't want to end up with something I don't know how to operate.
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Nov 2, 2022 19:40
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Perhaps one of the more out there "1st print" posts. First print off my Neptune 3, anatomy model of the clitoris, Polyterra PLA in superdraft 0.28 mm mode. Is there a way to set up different layer heights for different parts of the model in Prusaslicer, like the variable settings wizard in Simplify3D?
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Nov 2, 2022 21:51
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Acid Reflux posted:The SV06 has a 235 x 235 build plate, 250mm height, and uses Marlin 2 firmware. There's your custom profile. Set print parameters to taste and go to town. I recommend staying around 0.5mm retraction for PLA, this new planetary drive extruder of theirs is a goddamn beast. Any opinion on the enclosure they're selling? I like the idea of a flame retardant lining, but is it snake oil?
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Nov 3, 2022 02:46
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For sculpting, Zbrush has been the gold standard for quite some time and has a 3D print output menu. The full software is overkill for 3D printing, they have Zbrushcore which is a stripped down version. But it's now on a rental model. Blender is free and a good one to start with, plus it has poly modeling which isn't going to give the same precision as CAD but will be useful for doing hard surface stuff. Sculptris is another free option you can look at. Nomadsculpt is supposed to be good, but it's mobile only so I haven't tried it. Mudbox is free through Autodesk IF you have a student account, that's a possibility if you want something full featured but don't want to pay for Zbrush.
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Nov 3, 2022 15:02
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Floppychop posted:My experience with blender is that it's less precision-based and more for digital sculpting. I tried following some written and video tutorials since nothing is explained in the software itself, and the majority of the tutorials assume a large amount of base-knowledge. I simply don't have the dozens/hundreds of hours available to stumble my own way through learning it. You're the best judge of your own time and how best to spend it, but it's likely that for what you want to do, you will only have to learn 0.001% of Blender, and if you get over that initial hump you'll be set. There's a lot of tutorials and material on learning blender, but you don't have to waste time with stuff that's not modeling. I'd say you need a basic tutorial on the interface (only including modeling, skip anything on animation/rendering/etc) and then some basic intro to modeling, just to see how the tools are applied, and then target your learning to the specific things you want to achieve, like boolean modeling to trim the sides off a model. So 3-4 hours up front might save you a lot of pain later if you intend to modify a lot of models. The 3D graphics thread can also help with questions.
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Nov 4, 2022 19:59
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Doctor Zero posted:Nomad is iPad only but its feature set is basic enough that it’s not hard to learn. It's also available on Android. Just no desktop app.
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Nov 4, 2022 23:38
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Sockser posted:I've got this model that is too big for my Saturn. Cool, whatever. Slice and dice, baby. If you have a polygon modeler like Blender I would just make two copies of the model, delete everything on the right of that line from one model, and everything on the left of that line from the other. Then close the holes with new polygons (or if Blender has a close holes function). Would be really easy in Blender, not sure how Meshmixer works. Send me the model and I could do it at the end of the week, slammed with work through Friday.
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Nov 8, 2022 04:05
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Sovol is having a sale, including dropping the price on the SV06 from the previous sale price of $259 to $239. Ends on the 14th. https://sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv06-direct-drive-3d-printer
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Nov 10, 2022 20:29
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BadMedic posted:Honestly yeah probably 10 days at $50/day to see $500.
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Nov 10, 2022 21:33
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infinite99 posted:Did anyone order an SV06 from Sovol recently? I ordered one over a week ago and haven't gotten any emails about it but I'm guessing they just don't have any stock right now and it won't be here till next month probably. I'm kind of wondering if I should have just gotten a Neptune 3 instead but the features on the SV06 seem really good for the price. I ordered one last week and I got a shipping email, the updates say it's left the seller but hasn't arrived yet at USPS. I believe they're still operating under a preorder model. They've listed a rough timeline, orders after Nov 7th aren't supposed to ship until Dec 8th. I wouldn't worry unless Dec 8th comes and goes without an email. edit- actually depends on where in US, if you're in CA they won't ship until Dec 22 according to the timeline, and dates to other countries varies
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Nov 14, 2022 23:10
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infinite99 posted:Thanks! I'm in Canada so I guess I'll be waiting a while then. So I'm dumb and just realized CA means Canada, I was assuming it meant California since it was lumped in with AU and I was just generally thinking "West coast/Pacific", but probably makes more since given that I believe they have warehouses in US. Yeah I think you have to wait for a shipping date of Dec 22.
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Nov 14, 2022 23:48
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Hadlock posted:Kind of tempted to keep my deposit and just flip it on eBay when the shipping info arrives, sounding like preorders are going to be way below the true full retail price Is this a likely scenario? I can't get my supervisor to pull the trigger on a preorder, but when regular ordering opened I was hoping to get her onboard to order one. Not sure how successful that would be if the price jumps significantly. Oh, and USPS tells me that my Sovol SV06 is arriving today. Ordered on Nov 8, so that's 10 day turnaround, much faster than the Dec 8 delivery date as advertised.
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Nov 18, 2022 18:14
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Paradoxish posted:Just get a decent (fireproof) enclosure What are some good fireproof enclosures, anyone have recs?
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Nov 24, 2022 20:40
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Doctor Zero posted:Similarly, the Prusa XL hasn’t even been released yet, and it’s already outclassed by printers like the Bambu X-1 Carbon. I can buy TWO of those for less than the price of a multi tool XL right now. Are there any good reviews showing the Bambu in operation? We were thinking of getting a Prusa XL for large format but with the delays and cost, I could argue for this instead, but I'd like to see an honest review. Bondematt posted:I thought of that too, but not thrilled with needing to purge between changes and the issues Bambu has had regarding security. What security issue is this?
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Dec 7, 2022 22:48
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Doctor Zero posted:I’ll probably (not) do a review myself. But printer good is the short version. That all sounds really good. I don't care about multicolored prints and would probably just use it the same way, but can you use 3rd party filament spools? Anything proprietary about the spool holders? I can't find a good picture on their website to see how those are working.
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Dec 8, 2022 00:12
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Doctor Zero posted:Not exactly proprietary - the official ones are refillable and have RFID on the filament hub so the printer will know what it is when you load it. Also the refillable spool is loving amazing and reduces a ton of waste. They give you the code to print your own spools right on the printer too. You can use their spools on anything else too of course if you want to not be throwing away plastic spools all the time. How do you handle the refillable spool- if I had a spool of polymaker or whatever, do I have to unspool it from the spool it came on and wind it around the Bambu refillable spool?
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Dec 10, 2022 01:42
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ImplicitAssembler posted:It actually happened!!! Huh I figured they were kaput. Prusaslicer has been such a nice move I don't see going back, except it would be easier to use for the legacy printer in my office that is already running on V4.
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Dec 14, 2022 23:02
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I've been using this tool for helping me remove support material from the interiors of tight spaces in some of my models, it's fantastic but it was a hand-me-down from a retiring colleague. I have no idea who the manufacturer is but I'd like to get another. Anyone know what this would be called? My googling has not been successful. The material seems to be like hardened steel, it's really hard- I have some other picks that have bent while trying to remove supports- and it has a chisel at one end and a pick at the other.
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Dec 20, 2022 00:24
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Fantastic, thanks so much.
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Dec 20, 2022 00:37
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NewFatMike posted:I used Inkscape professionally for years for laser jobs, it’ll pull in an AI file if that’s what you download just fine. It’s a great introduction to vector art and it’ll let you get your sea legs before pulling the trigger on something that costs money. And if you are going to spend money, go for Affinity Designer before shelling out for Adobe Illustrator.
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Dec 26, 2022 00:45
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Hey how fast do you guys with a Neptune 3 print with PLA? I've been doing 55 mm/s since it was just working, but now that I have time to play around with settings I'm curious how fast I can reasonably push this thing.
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Jan 1, 2023 00:01
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BadMedic posted:Yeah assuming you've bumped the temp to 210/215 that's about the max, the extruder can't melt fast enough to go higher than that. Yeah I'm at 210C. I've been using Prusaslicer and just been assuming that the print speed is operating at 55 mm/s; the actual print time has been pretty much in the ballpark of the estimate. If the slicer was doing something wonky, I'd see that in a huge deviation from the estimate right?
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Jan 1, 2023 03:52
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Acid Reflux posted:Cons: Can you post if you find good replacements? Mine will operate in a room that I don't share, so I may not care about it, but just in case it becomes an issue it'd be nice to just know what will work if I decide to replace as well.
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Mar 3, 2023 01:14
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