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AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
Is my Ender 3 Neo gonna care about printing in a cold garage?

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AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Paradoxish posted:

How cold? I've gotten away with printing PLA as low as 50 F and had okay results, but you're risking a lot of warping and bed adhesion issues once you're down at that point. It's not going to be quite as finicky as resin, but you do want to try to keep it somewhere around 60-ish at a minimum, and you don't want any drafts.

Talking 30F today so maybe 40-45F in the garage. No drafts, really. Even a heated bed won’t really mitigate this?
I guess I can make it an enclosure and let the bed warm it up good before it kicks off.

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
It would basically have to be maxing out a 15 amp circuit 24/7 at ~11c/kWhr to hit $100/mo.


OK, so cold is less than ideal. What about heat? Do I care if the garage is pushing 100F?

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
1> Use .gcode to travel print head to each corner/center, and manually level bed
2> Run auto leveller
3> Double check and adjust z-offset
4> Run the .gcode that prints concentric squares to confirm evenness
5> RUN AN ACTUAL OBJECT AND WATCH THE FIRST LAYER LOOK LIKE UNEVEN poo poo

Why??

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Bondematt posted:

Too high usually.

Looks great for little squares, but once you print small lines with 90* turns you really find out how well tuned your height is and how sticky the bed is.

I just crank it down .1 and if it fixes it I go up .05.

I don't recommend the nice squares for anything more than a basic level and height check.

Edit: Oh and M2 through holes, gently caress those with a grater

I was really believing in the squares, but this makes sense, thank you.

BadMedic posted:

IDK what printer you are running, but you might need to add a 'load the bed mesh' command into your starting gcode in your slicer.
Fake edit: If your starting gcode contains the "G28" command, you might need to add the "M420 S" command directly after.

Ender 3 neo. G28 disables homes and then... disables bed levelling? That's weird. And there's no following M420 S, I'll try that. I wonder if there's a setting in Cura to say hey, auto levelling is a thing on this machine. There's no preset for the 3 Neo.

edit: oh man, even the Creality-wrapped Cura doesn't include the M420 S command, how bizarre.

AlternateAccount fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Dec 7, 2022

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Sydney Bottocks posted:

As far as I know, there isn't a setting in Cura that tells it to use the saved bed mesh. I used to have that gcode command in my Cura print start gcode section, to tell it to home and then load the saved bed mesh before starting the print, but AFAIK there's no option you can check or whatever to tell it to do that.

Well I also discovered that the non-driven side of my Z-axis rails had some not-insignificant slop and tightened that down, now I think I am getting a bit of banding. We'll see when this print finishes.

This stuff is.... a chore.

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

SubNat posted:

and until everything is done, printed, cleaned, and cursed.

This loving print looks like dogshit hosed by another pile of bigger and grosser dogshit!!!

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Rexxed posted:

I feel that the pinnacle of 3d printing gun content is going to be Print Shoot Repeat's HK slap song.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kucefQ6sYbo

Not sure how that can be anything but the absolute peak.

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Ygolonac posted:

"Ah, well; who wants to live forever? (laughs heartily, to the Hawkmen) DIVE!"

Somehow he gets so many more syllables out of it.

DYYYEEIIIIIVVVVUHH

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
Is bed leveling and offset just impossible?

Manually level, print concentric squares, everything’s flawless and even. Great.

Actual print? Nozzle gets right up against the glass for part of it til it can’t even extrude. Just awful.

What gives? Ended 3 Neo. Is it the stupid auto leveling thing? Can I shut that off and have it not try to compensate?

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
Yeah so I just cleared the BLtouch data, meticulously leveled my bed the old fashioned way with a piece of paper, and then had it print some nonsense while I manually tweaked the z-offset.

Easy and works well now. I have a glass bed. It ain’t gonna be substantially out of flatness. Screw this automatic crap. At least this variant.

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
Hm, long print, had a few spots where I got this kind of thing across an entire layer.



That's very zoomed in, this was on .12mm layers. It almost looks like there wasn't enough plastic flow? Anyone know what this is? I almost wanna say the gears had trouble feeding filament like maybe it was jammed up or something?

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Nerobro posted:

Hmm.. why does that smell of 2a?

Step one, I'd turn up the print temp. Printing at very small layer heights makes a whole lot of weird things happen. Things like the tooth count of your extruder start to matter, and real low flow rates make kinda everything matter more. I'd follow the extrusion multiplier test from https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ Beyond that, we'd need to know a lot more to acutally talk about what's going on. The printer, the temps, the speeds, the filament, and what you've tried already.

Let me clarify after re-examining, the ridges are actually protruding and rough, visually it kinda looks like gaps, but there's definitely very fine raised lines there. It's weird, it went through several inches of z-axis that are perfect glassy smooth but then this occurs now and then. Dirt on the Z-axis screw threads causing hitches where it's not quite raising a full layer height? Maybe some light oiling?

- Ender 3 Neo
- 50mm/sec
- Retracting 6mm@60mm/s
- Using LOTTMAXX 1.75mm PLA. Lists temps at 190-230C, I am at 223 right now. I wonder if there could be some element of a layer where a particular movement pattern or the length of a path could lead to some kind of temp issue. I probably should do better logging in Octoprint.
- I worked all last week dialing in X/Y/Z and the extruder.

I haven't seen any banding like that before, but I am usually doing small scale stuff within a couple of inches from the bed. These cubes never had anything but smooth surfaces using the exact same temps and flow:

Their corners seem kinda sloppy and bulgy and I know there was some bad elephant-footing on some that I fixed.

Other than that, nothing weird or new in the slicer settings.
I am printing something much more detailed and complex right now and I am noticing some light stringing, but I can't tell if it's mostly in the supports or not at this point, the print that started this chain had no noticeable stringing.

Are temp towers actually useful for diagnostics?

I could probably come up with a real easy torture test of an inch wide vertical wall to see if I can replicate and try bumping temps up and down to see if I can replicate.

Regardless, I hadn't seen that guide before. Looks dense, I will read it.

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Roundboy posted:

You need more top/bottom layers because your infill is showing through the print

I wonder if that retraction is a bit much, pulling melted filament back enough that it solidified on a spot it's not able to push

What if you clear the nozzle, heat to printing temps, park the head on the middle and just extrude filament for a bit. Then wait and do it again.

I will try this. Also, I remember I cranked up the retraction because of some stringing, but in retrospect I may have just not had the temp high enough for that filament.

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AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM

Warbird posted:



Is the weird pesudo line/hole effect here from being too low on my z offset? This is the bed side with a textured plate. I’ve been trying to dial things in a bit more and I noticed that if I go lower the print lines on the “top” of the piece look a bit “mushy” and seem to have inconsistent density, see:



(It’s a pain to get a good shot when in motion but you get the idea.)

Edit: It may bear mentioning that I'm putzing around with .16mm layer height instead of the usual .2. I think my Ender 3 S1 can handle that but I really ought to go check.

That top layer surface looks like you’re underextruding a bit.

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