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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
lol its a drz.
delete the failed kicker mod
buy jump pack as the starters on these are hella robust
scoop the big bits out of the cases, hose off the rest with your favorite spray. Pull the clutch basket and clean the poo poo out of its needle bearings if you care.
drz's don't really run pressurized lubrication anyway.
The scavenging pump has a screen and so does the lubricating pump. What they don't catch the main filter will. There's squirters for the transmission and the piston, the head is gonna be the most sensitive part of the bike tolerances wise which is why they eat cam journals first with any lubrication problems.
jb-weld the hole.
put the engine back into the bike
brap till it pops
lol its a drz.

(the cases are matched, replace as a set. throw a +4mm crank in it while you're in there. tig might work but on something oily, likely not)

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
the basket is tied to the primary reduction gearset which is tied to the crankshaft.
the hub is what should freeroll in neutral.

Pop the side cover off and follow the gears.
With the nut off the clutch hub and basket should just pull right out. IIRC you need to do that anyway for the kicker kit.
Post pics of the case' internal status too.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
broken gear drive from the kicker may be causing binding. pull the gray side cover off and investigate further. This will also give you exposure to the crank nut so you can rock the gears back and forth to unbind whatever is going on inside. I wouldn't put a puller on the clutch basket. Suzuki cast alloys are fragile.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

There is no way on this gay earth those cases are made of magnesium. Side covers sure.

Its this. The case halves are aluminum like the bore and head.
The side covers and valve cover are magnesium.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

It will never spin smooth and free because it's turning all those gears on the inside. You can try pumping a bunch of oil into the bearing via an old man oiling can and see if it gets any smoother. If there's no visible damage to the cage I wouldn't worry about it.

I would try turning the input by hand and running through all the gears. It will be harder to shift than when the engine is running but you should be able to access all of them, turn them all several revolutions and if you don't feel any lumps or bumps or unevenness it's probably fine.

Do this.
If you have access to an air compressor blow some air through the roller balls while spinning the bearing, that'll blow whatever poo poo thats in the races out. these are pretty fault tolerant if you get the big chunks out.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Machine a new engine out of a solid billet of jb weld

And call it 'Royal Enfield'

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