Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Late to the party but here to say that is easily and cheaply fixed by a man with a TIG, it's nowhere near any of the really load bearing parts of the case. I would not be fussed about bits of metal being everywhere because it barely ran before dying, the chunks will be quite big and stopped by the pump inlet mesh, there just isn't the opportunity for it to get everywhere throughout the engine.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

There is no way on this gay earth those cases are made of magnesium. Side covers sure.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Pressure: near zero, like a couple of psi that is immediately belched out of the breather.

Stress: gently caress all. That whole volume is only there to accommodate the kickstart gubbins and is otherwise empty. The structure to the rear of the engine is largely in the huge boss that meshes with the swingarm pivot bolt, stresses are transmitted through the internal walls that house the transmission and main bearings.

The cracked area is basically a thin roof that doesn't do any work if you don't have a kick starter and, indeed, it is actually super common for that area to break on a bunch of different bikes; my missus' old husky tc250 for example had a crack in that exact area from normal kickstart usage, my kx250 also has a repaired crack in that area.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It will never spin smooth and free because it's turning all those gears on the inside. You can try pumping a bunch of oil into the bearing via an old man oiling can and see if it gets any smoother. If there's no visible damage to the cage I wouldn't worry about it.

I would try turning the input by hand and running through all the gears. It will be harder to shift than when the engine is running but you should be able to access all of them, turn them all several revolutions and if you don't feel any lumps or bumps or unevenness it's probably fine.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Flush bearings, engine etc
JB weld the hole (I would try gentle tapping but it's ally so idk)
Ride your bike while keeping an eye out for a second hand engine

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply