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Dacheat
Feb 21, 2003
DO anti-rust coatings like por15, chassis, saver, rust bullet, etc... actually work?

Did part of my frame around the gas tank on the CJ7 with chassis saver, one section peeled up because of bad prep (didn't clean/wirewheel that section) but time will tell on the rest.

Wanted thoughts before i did the rest of the frame or anything else.

On my '13 Silverado i've opted to do black wool wax annually to keep the frame pristine and it seems to be more or less working but it's slimy and terrible to work on.

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the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

Dacheat posted:

DO anti-rust coatings like por15, chassis, saver, rust bullet, etc... actually work?

Did part of my frame around the gas tank on the CJ7 with chassis saver, one section peeled up because of bad prep (didn't clean/wirewheel that section) but time will tell on the rest.

Wanted thoughts before i did the rest of the frame or anything else.

On my '13 Silverado i've opted to do black wool wax annually to keep the frame pristine and it seems to be more or less working but it's slimy and terrible to work on.

Without proper prep, nothings going to hold up.
I've used Por15 - only to find out I needed to apply a UV stable topcoat. It still held up for ~10 years, but started to chalk/bubble/flake.
For my F250, I just wire wheeled it and used a Tractor/Equipment primer and Enamel paint. Cheap, available, UV stable, and easy to touch up.

trouser chili
Mar 27, 2002

Unnngggggghhhhh
Applying POR-15 is the easiest part of using POR-15. Prep is 80% of the job. Where I've used it properly it's held up well. I too have experienced the UV-senstivity of the product, but it's only caused cosmetic change with seemingly no change in protective ability.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Has anyone ever compared regular zinc primer to POR-15? Bomb cans are easy to find and cheap to use.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
do your prepwork and it will do its job.

use the silver por. topcoat in black. when the topcoat gets damaged you'll know.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Correct answer since I've hosed with all these for over a decade in New England where we salt the earth.

1. Wire wheel as much as possible, you want to get as much as you can off. I've used a flap wheel before. You will still have little pinholes of rust even if you do a big flap wheel pass.
2. Brush on, not spray, Permatex rust converter: https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/rust-treatments/permatex-rust-treatment-16-fl-oz/
3. Two coats of chassis saver SILVER because they put alu flake in it: https://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
Way better than POR15, the internet gets mad but the truth hurts.
4. Black color coat, aerosol or a cheap brush on, whatever. The idea is you see silver you need to repaint. Also lets you chase flaking from poor prep.

If you do not prep enough, the rust will flake your paint and you know have created a membrane that will just let it keep rusting. When I built my WRX I painted the underside of the shell with POR and 5 years later that paint is now pealing off in sheets revealing a nice even rust where moisture and salt got in.

On top of that you can spray fluid film, woolwax, diesel + motor oil mix, whatever strikes your fancy.

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Vincent Van Goatse
Nov 8, 2006

Enjoy every sandwich.

Smellrose
Jerry, is that you?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2LLB9CGfLs

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